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Author Topic: SCANDINAVIAN SCRIBE METHODS  (Read 13430 times)

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Offline UNCLEBUCK

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SCANDINAVIAN SCRIBE METHODS
« on: June 10, 2003, 12:15:02 AM »
yeah all that means is you better have a good chainsaw ! I can answer most questions to this kind of log method and thought I would post this to get more people who have cabins to start posting there pictures and comments !  I will enjoy following the updates to sawinmontana , it makes the old scandinavian methods look prehistoric ! so if anyone is having troubles with this kind of log building method feel free to ask ok !  :P
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Offline UNCLEBUCK

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Re: SCANDINAVIAN SCRIBE METHODS
« Reply #1 on: June 15, 2003, 09:15:03 PM »
i be home on weekends to answer anyones questions ok ! bye now !  :P
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Offline Jeff

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Re: SCANDINAVIAN SCRIBE METHODS
« Reply #2 on: June 18, 2003, 08:43:44 PM »
I wonder if thats what I used on my benches?
Just call me the midget doctor.
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Re: SCANDINAVIAN SCRIBE METHODS
« Reply #3 on: June 18, 2003, 08:51:01 PM »
UNKLEBUCK, are you what is known as a Finnish carpenter? ::)
"I don't feel like an old man.  I feel like a young man who has something wrong with him."  Dick Cavett
"Beat not thy sword into a plowshare, rather beat the sword of thine enemy into a plowshare."

Offline Jeff

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Re: SCANDINAVIAN SCRIBE METHODS
« Reply #4 on: June 19, 2003, 04:19:20 PM »
Har! Thats a DanG good one!
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Offline ohsoloco

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Re: SCANDINAVIAN SCRIBE METHODS
« Reply #5 on: June 19, 2003, 10:09:19 PM »
Awww, man..... ::) ::) :D

Offline Jeff

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Re: SCANDINAVIAN SCRIBE METHODS
« Reply #6 on: June 20, 2003, 05:31:55 PM »
What does an actual scribe look like and how is it used? I made a scribe by screwing two rulers to each other at the end and taping a pencil to one. ;D

well, it worked.
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Offline ohsoloco

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Re: SCANDINAVIAN SCRIBE METHODS
« Reply #7 on: June 20, 2003, 06:27:36 PM »
Jeff, that sounds like a DanG fine log scribe to me  ;)  Lee Valley sells one that looks like this:

http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.asp?page=41144&category=1,41131&ccurrency=2&SID=

Offline UNCLEBUCK

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Re: SCANDINAVIAN SCRIBE METHODS
« Reply #8 on: June 23, 2003, 03:13:02 PM »
yeah everybody is correct ! basically its a big pencil compass with a bubble level attached at some point and it just transfers the top of the bottom log to the bottom of the top log and when your done scribing the complete log and bring it down to ground level and roll it over you have lines to follow with a chainsaw and you end up with a kind of hollow area then roll and staple in sill seal fiberglass insulation and then put the log back up on the wall and roll it over into place and it should fit like a glove and with allowances made on the log ends and top of notches it will be called shrink fit notches,gets tighter with age and more weight, then youre done ! the outside wall looks just like the inside , the more knots and uglier the log the prettier it looks when its done ! ok
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Offline C_Miller

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Re: SCANDINAVIAN SCRIBE METHODS
« Reply #9 on: June 23, 2003, 07:07:56 PM »
The guy up the road does a  style where he cuts a lateral in both logs. he says it gives a tighter joint. I'm still amazed at how well he handles a chainsaw to follow the lines.  I have a hard time with a coloring book.
CJM

Offline UNCLEBUCK

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Re: SCANDINAVIAN SCRIBE METHODS
« Reply #10 on: July 23, 2003, 10:51:11 PM »
thats sounds neat, never tried that !  kind of nice to leave the top of the log below round on top for any possible moisture to dissappear from. except the notch area has a scarf shaped into it for compression as the years go by and gravity to do its magic !  i be reading timberframing books now and am ready to give it a go, they sure are pretty structures ! plus you dont have to hand peel the logs, just throw them on the mill , feels like carpentry again !  :P
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Offline Scotty2

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Re: SCANDINAVIAN SCRIBE METHODS
« Reply #11 on: August 11, 2003, 11:24:34 PM »
You can find descriptions and photos of several types of scribers at:

http://www.loghomestore.com/tools2.shtml#scribers

Regards, Scotty2

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Re: SCANDINAVIAN SCRIBE METHODS
« Reply #12 on: September 08, 2003, 09:59:34 AM »
I have been building a log house for my parents using the double-cut lateral that was mentioned above.Here is a picture of my Mackie scriber

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Re: SCANDINAVIAN SCRIBE METHODS
« Reply #13 on: September 09, 2003, 01:14:58 AM »
Pic of me cutting the tracer cuts.
This is my first attempt a building a log house.The hardest part of this venture was peeling all the logs.I  built alot of specialized tools which was fun!
I'm getting close to installing the log floor joists.

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Re: SCANDINAVIAN SCRIBE METHODS
« Reply #14 on: September 23, 2003, 10:11:10 PM »
nice picture Blue ! I built my first log cabin 20 years ago for my folks too! didnt know what I was gettin in to when dad sent me to log building school. my teacher went to the mackie school so i guess i learned it right the first time ! had 165 huge norways to peel when i got home from log school, ended up with  70 foot purlins but had to let them dry for a year but it worked out fine ! ended up buying a big old 25 ton Bay City truck crane for saftey reasons with a 90 foot boom for 1000 $,still runs great ! anyway good luck and keep postin the pics ! thanks ! :P
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Re: SCANDINAVIAN SCRIBE METHODS
« Reply #15 on: September 26, 2003, 10:00:11 PM »
Today , I started endbolting (splicing) my 60 foot logs over a mid wall notch.This gets rid of most of the sweep found in long logs and allows for longer walls.After the log on the right is final scribed into position.I make a 2 foot long x 3/4" wide saw kerf  across the joint. 3 inch holes are  drilled at both ends of the kerf.I plunge cut a flat on the side of the hole for placement of a large timber washer/nut.Then a piece of all thread is dropped in, bolting the logs together.Everything is galvanized.Untreated metal will leave rust stains everywhere.
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Re: SCANDINAVIAN SCRIBE METHODS
« Reply #16 on: September 27, 2003, 08:39:11 AM »
Finally above the doors this weekend (header logs), feels pretty good ;D. I've got a ways to go yet though. One double log beam, six floor joist, two trusses,a ridgepole and some posts.I'm gonna cut the windows out last.
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Offline Jim_Rogers

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Re: SCANDINAVIAN SCRIBE METHODS
« Reply #17 on: September 27, 2003, 01:53:44 PM »
Is it hard to tighten up that threaded rod? Jim
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Offline UNCLEBUCK

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Re: SCANDINAVIAN SCRIBE METHODS
« Reply #18 on: September 27, 2003, 09:31:26 PM »
hey blue !  great pictures !  you sound committed to finish asap !  I like how deep you peeled your logs and how smooth they look. The first time I peeled logs I left the cambium layer on and the big norways were beautiful almost a tiger striping effect but by the time I got done and got a roof on, the cambium layer dried and cracked and faded and looked awful so I had it sandblasted then gobbed on the sikkens and saved "the ark" as my dad calls it ! good job ! very very nice !
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Re: SCANDINAVIAN SCRIBE METHODS
« Reply #19 on: September 27, 2003, 11:25:51 PM »
Jim
Nope, not hard,I'll post a close up tomorrow.
Thanks for your nice comments Uncle Buck.I spent months and months peeling these logs.It was more difficult because I bought the logs from the local mill.They had been through the delimber,so you can imagine the damage I had to deal with.The spike rolls on those things, leave horendous tracks down each side of the logs.I made a bunch of drawknives for peeling.The ones in the store were way too narrow (kept skinning my knuckles)
I got used industrial planer blades for free at the mill, just welded some square stock to them for a handle and gripped  it with hockey tape.I got fancy with the last one and made cork grips They work best with the bevel side down and sharpened at about  20 - 25  degree angle .

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Re: SCANDINAVIAN SCRIBE METHODS
« Reply #20 on: September 28, 2003, 06:59:22 PM »
I agree that store bought drawknives are a joke ! I used old sye ("sigh") blades like from the hand held old time ones found at auctions because they would sharpen up great and ranged from 2 to almost 2-1/2 feet from end to end . Even if you have to hire some day helpers once in awhile throughout the project just keep on pluggin away until you get a roof on it. A neighbor and his wife built a big log cabin and it was several years before they got close to puttin a roof over it and all their efforts turned rotten . So once you get to that point then you can take a break and rest the sore muscles ! lookin good from here !  
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Re: SCANDINAVIAN SCRIBE METHODS
« Reply #21 on: October 03, 2003, 06:23:29 PM »
hi everyone ! here is a pic of the log floor joists and purlins and kind of see a post back there somewhere, this is red pine "norways" ! this is the basement of dads cabin lookin upwards, the loft floor joist is the same kind of set up minus the posts because the loft floor joists ride on the bottom chord of log truss and log wall , the posts in this pic have a 2 inch threaded bolt and washer under each post and through the years i have had to turn the big nut to snug the post back up to the purlin ! used a double scribed square notch on some and other just a regular saddle type notch !the joists were flat sided one side with a homemade 2 man bar on a regular husky chainsaw !

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Re: SCANDINAVIAN SCRIBE METHODS
« Reply #22 on: October 03, 2003, 06:34:20 PM »
hey good deal my pic went through ok, forgot to say that all the logs were hand peeled but you can see at one time there was a beautiful tiger striped cambium layer on these logs but this is after the sandblasting lightly , after 20 years the logs have not had any type of finish yet, this cabin is still not finished ,hee hee, pops got sick and ran short on cash so i work on it when i can ! the rocks were free from the neighbors farm field ,had to buy the 2x6 t&g pine flooring 20 years ago other than that its just a challenge mentally to keep excited but its very close to finished , another 2 years haha :P
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Re: SCANDINAVIAN SCRIBE METHODS
« Reply #23 on: October 03, 2003, 07:17:15 PM »
i meant to say that after 20 years the interior logs and walls have not had any type of finish yet, the exterior got 078 sikkens the day after the light sandblasting 20 years ago ! about every 5 years i mop on the sikkens to the exterior ! the only reason for buying a old truck crane was because i was working over a walk-out basement and had to have a old mechanical type crane that would swing the logs on and off with ease ! this cabin didnt seem very big on scratch paper and pencil when we first ventured into this project but when the log trucks all showed up at once we took a deep breath and realized its too late to turn back now ! hee hee :P
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Re: SCANDINAVIAN SCRIBE METHODS
« Reply #24 on: October 12, 2003, 07:18:54 PM »
Hey Blue !  I hope you show more progress pictures, your scribing methods seem to be the latest info hot off the press, its very interesting to see the double scribe way ! ;D
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Re: SCANDINAVIAN SCRIBE METHODS
« Reply #25 on: November 05, 2003, 10:21:02 PM »
I found a picture on the internet of a pretty log cabin and just had to post it , looks like the scribed way and a very good job of peeling .                                                                                  
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Re: SCANDINAVIAN SCRIBE METHODS
« Reply #26 on: March 06, 2004, 05:41:20 PM »
Sorry I took sooo long to reply Uncle Buck.The house is now reassembled and closed-in nearly 3000 mile away from were I first peeled and fitted those logs.A couple shots of it....

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Re: SCANDINAVIAN SCRIBE METHODS
« Reply #27 on: March 06, 2004, 10:32:15 PM »
holy cow blue ! that is beautiful ,oh my oh my ! I figured you were gettin after it pretty good being you werent checkin in once in awhile ! congrats , way to go ! I gotta show this to my dad , I will print this up . Ya know you really deserve to show this in a new thread of your own and show all your beginning to end pics because you got the hot scribing hand and its awesome stuff. I hope you do because alot of people would want to ask you alot of first hand stuff .  8)
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Re: SCANDINAVIAN SCRIBE METHODS
« Reply #28 on: March 07, 2004, 08:10:42 AM »
Thanks for the kind words, Uncle Buck. I'm pretty happy how it turned out.

I would like to build more log houses.I won't ever do a double scribe lateral again,but I'll get into that on another thread. Thanks again,I',m really glad you like my work!!
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Offline LOGDOG

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Re: SCANDINAVIAN SCRIBE METHODS
« Reply #29 on: July 07, 2007, 08:02:40 AM »
Is blue_eyed_devil still around the forum? Great little thread here I stumbled on in the archives. Excellent workmanship!

LOGDOG

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Re: SCANDINAVIAN SCRIBE METHODS
« Reply #30 on: July 07, 2007, 11:38:57 AM »
I haven't seen him here or on another forum he used to haunt in a couple of years. He did do a nice job on his folks place.

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Re: SCANDINAVIAN SCRIBE METHODS
« Reply #31 on: July 07, 2007, 05:30:02 PM »
That's too bad. Guys like him are nice to have around. Although they also tend to be the busiest. Maybe he'll pop in sometime and let us know what he's been workin' on.

LOGDOG

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Re: SCANDINAVIAN SCRIBE METHODS
« Reply #32 on: July 07, 2007, 10:45:10 PM »
He hasn't logged in since the software changeover several years ago.

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Re: SCANDINAVIAN SCRIBE METHODS
« Reply #33 on: July 10, 2007, 11:38:26 AM »
To bad  it would be kind of nice to see some of his other work, or maybe some others.



Here is a picture of our Blind Mortise for the starter row of my cabin.
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Offline LOGDOG

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Re: SCANDINAVIAN SCRIBE METHODS
« Reply #34 on: July 10, 2007, 12:51:54 PM »
Exactly Stephen. Nice notch. Fixin' to do a little cribe work myself over here in the near future. We'll post pics as we go. Promise you won't laugh at my first few notches?  ;)

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Re: SCANDINAVIAN SCRIBE METHODS
« Reply #35 on: July 10, 2007, 10:07:18 PM »
I spotted some nice log work going on in one of members galleries. Check out HARLEYRIDERS gallery. Great full scribe log work.

LOGDOG

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Re: SCANDINAVIAN SCRIBE METHODS
« Reply #36 on: July 21, 2007, 02:42:46 PM »
Jim
Nope, not hard,I'll post a close up tomorrow.
Thanks for your nice comments Uncle Buck.I spent months and months peeling these logs.It was more difficult because I bought the logs from the local mill.They had been through the delimber,so you can imagine the damage I had to deal with.The spike rolls on those things, leave horendous tracks down each side of the logs.I made a bunch of drawknives for peeling.The ones in the store were way too narrow (kept skinning my knuckles)
I got used industrial planer blades for free at the mill, just welded some square stock to them for a handle and gripped  it with hockey tape.I got fancy with the last one and made cork grips They work best with the bevel side down and sharpened at about  20 - 25  degree angle .
(Image hidden from quote, click to view.)

I got a really great drawknife from schroeders log supply "www.loghelp.com" 13" blade curved to the contour of the log, and awesome comfort handles..........it's made by "Granfors Bruks" ........

I'd do the same for somebody I liked !!

Offline blacksheep

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Re: SCANDINAVIAN SCRIBE METHODS
« Reply #37 on: December 29, 2017, 08:19:48 PM »
Today , I started endbolting (splicing) my 60 foot logs over a mid wall notch.This gets rid of most of the sweep found in long logs and allows for longer walls.After the log on the right is final scribed into position.I make a 2 foot long x 3/4" wide saw kerf  across the joint. 3 inch holes are  drilled at both ends of the kerf.I plunge cut a flat on the side of the hole for placement of a large timber washer/nut.Then a piece of all thread is dropped in, bolting the logs together.Everything is galvanized.Untreated metal will leave rust stains everywhere. (Image hidden from quote, click to view.)

Ive been looking for this method. Im in the beginning stages of designing our log cabin. Were limited to 20 length logs give or take due to man power and no use of heavy equipment. Ive been trying to find a method that allows you to splice the logs and cover that in a notch. I like that you hid them in the mid walls. Is it possible to splice logs like this with green logs? Or would shrinkage cause problems with the butted ends?

Also, it looks like your just splicing one or two logs. Id be splicing down the entire length of the wall, verticalwise. So say, I have 20 logs stacked 10 high. Id want to splice another 10 logs, 20 in length, then put in a mid log wall on the splice notch such as you. End result would give me a 40 wall. Does that make sense? Wondering if that would be structurally sound if I use galvanized bolts and hardware to hold together.

Offline Scotty2

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Re: SCANDINAVIAN SCRIBE METHODS
« Reply #38 on: December 30, 2017, 08:48:47 PM »
See if you can find a copy of 'Short Log and Timber Framing' by James Mitchell...great for those wanting to use shorter/easier pieces of wood. (I think Abebooks.com may have a copy)
Side Notes; Wood doesn't shrink much in length...I recall the old 2x4 balloon framing days where they would use 20' long studs and frame 2 stories at once...they figured 1" of settling...thus horizontal log builders rarely adjust for shrinkage in length...vs. a green horizontal log builder would have to figure up to 3/4" per foot of wall height (depending on specie, roof type etc.).
Scotty


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Started by backwoodsjed on Timber Framing/Log construction

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Last post May 09, 2013, 04:39:42 PM
by Jim_Rogers
 


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