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Author Topic: oak lap siding?  (Read 6826 times)

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Offline ljmathias

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Re: oak lap siding?
« Reply #40 on: November 19, 2017, 07:46:19 AM »
Been busy putting up more siding and trim on the new house. Wide boards are great to put up, and using 3/4" rather than 1" thick makes them a whole lot easier to handle. That plus letting the stain dry before handling is a real plus- no wet hands and sticky tapes, drills and driver handles.

Here's a couple shots of siding my other SIL helped me get started on- he and I did the first row with cut outs for windows, then he was off to home. Next day I put up the rest. You'll notice the "character rich" tin on the bottom. Daughter and SIL decided they liked that look, seeing it on a restaurant they visited, so they bought some used tin (really?) and we cut it to 30" with a jig and metal saw on my circular saw. What a racket! And pieces of burning hot metal flying every which way. At least we were mostly safe with goggles and ear protection but no gloves (which cost me part of fingernail: will I ever learn?)




Two things to keep in mind on lap siding (as if you didn't already know this). First, make sure you use the same width board for any given row going across (learned this the hard way on my first house- seems obvious but hey, why should I stay with the obvious when I can make interesting mistakes?). Second, plan as much as you can to have the row that goes up to just above the tops of the windows and doors be just enough for the lap of the row above. This eliminates the need to cut out for the tops of doors and windows. How do I know this? Hah, trial and error again...

Just a note on labor: I put up some of the low hanging siding alone like the front of the house pictured above- as long as you have a ladder top to balance it on, it can be done without too much strain (arm still not healed fully). Two people make it safer, faster and give better fit. Three people? Wow, what a difference! Yesterday, I was cut man on the ground, son-in-law and his friend on scaffolding measuring and putting up. Got most of the lap siding up on the end (picture tomorrow- keep forgetting the camera).

Oh, an aside on flooring. They decided to not put in tile, wood or carpet what with several dogs and cats and desire to keep things cleaner. So the bedroom, closet and bath on one end have concrete floors stained (twice to get it dark enough) followed by two coats of urethane seal: shiny and bright. Hope it doesn't sweat. Other end of the house bedrooms and bath will have garage-type epoxy (SIL likes to think he thinks outside the box; at least it will be functional if not warm.) Picture below is of the stained and sealed side.


Going to put ledger trim on top of the lap siding for the board and batten gable siding to sit on. Got that cut and stained yesterday afternoon out of a fully dried Katrina beam that had been sitting under my unusable car port since way back. Turned out nice. We'll put those up today after we finish the lap siding on the north end of the house. Then I'll cut the board and batten from a couple other air dried (for what, 11 years?) Katrina beams just waiting for someone to love them up and use them right... Sorry, too much coffee already.

LT40, Long tractor with FEL and backhoe, lots of TF tools, beautiful wife of 50 years plus 4 kids, 5 grandsons AND TWO GRANDDAUGHTERS all healthy plus too many ideas and plans and not enough time and energy

Offline MbfVA

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Re: oak lap siding?
« Reply #41 on: November 20, 2017, 02:49:53 AM »
Jumping back to poplar & log cabins, ours is mostly poplar logs and then poplar slabs where framed construction took over (ah, the many stages of historic log cabin construction).  The logs & slabs all have (latex, but oily smelling, "Blacksote" fence paint?) stain, but that does not stop the carpenter bees.

What does seriously slow them down is spraying some malathion into the holes one by one.  Yes, tough to reach some places.  It's effective and inexpensive compared to Raid, etc. Watch the very unhappy momma bees drop out and fly off to croak, then just in case spray more.  Then when it dries a bit, plug each one with cheap caulk (hint: it works and won't make an orange mess).  No reuse possible, and any larvae left behind will return to nature.

Malathion stinks but it works.  Don't drink it or get too much on you, or you'll bee sorry.

And kill survivors randomly any time you can.  They swat beautifully (out of the air) & relatively easily, especially when in luv.  Almost as much fun as using a Crosman.

Offline MbfVA

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Re: oak lap siding?
« Reply #42 on: November 20, 2017, 02:59:50 AM »
To LJ (I think), thanks for the epoxy floor idea, out of the box can be good.  We have a cat (over 18; we once had 10 or so), and given the damage their pee can do, an impervious floor could be the best idea yet.

My BIL tore his biceps muscle from its tendon by grabbing a handrail as he fell.  Windowshade problem, solved by a good surgeon.  He also had a widow maker tree shatter his left shoulder in more than 10 places after he bumped it with a JD 5400 class tractor.  Broke his hip most recently, fell backwards off some boat scaffolding (they have a sort of house boat they are working on).  It's a wonder he is alive, frankly.  But otherwise he is one fit man.  Still, amazingly.

Offline PA_Walnut

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Re: oak lap siding?
« Reply #43 on: November 20, 2017, 05:55:23 AM »
MbfVA, it sounds like you should stay WAY clear of your BIL when doing projects. He's possibly prone to a lightning strike or an alien landing event.  :o :D
I own my own small piece of the world on an 8 acre plot on the side of a mountain with walnut, hickory, ash and spruce.
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Offline thecfarm

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Re: oak lap siding?
« Reply #44 on: November 20, 2017, 05:59:55 AM »
I see there is a good overhang. I wonder if that restaurant did not have a good overhang,than they put the tin up,after the sliding started to rot. ;)
Model 6020-20hp Manual Thomas bandsaw,TC40A 4wd 40 hp New Holland tractor, 450 Norse Winch, Heatmor 400 OWB,YCC 1978-79

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