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Author Topic: sawmill shelter  (Read 1177 times)

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Offline Blaszer

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sawmill shelter
« on: September 17, 2017, 07:57:11 PM »
Id like to build a shelter for my mill using posts I cut myself....WHat could I put on these posts to keep them from rotting when they're in the ground? I'm near buffalo NY so I need to be 42'' in the ground to be below frost line..

Offline thecfarm

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Re: sawmill shelter
« Reply #1 on: September 17, 2017, 08:35:22 PM »
Maybe dumb luck? I built a horse run in,front post maybe in 18 inches,back ones a foot. I could not dig down 42 inches with a shovel,too many rocks.
Model 6020-20hp Manual Thomas bandsaw,TC40A 4wd 40 hp New Holland tractor, 450 Norse Winch, Heatmor 400 OWB,YCC 1978-79

Offline Blaszer

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Re: sawmill shelter
« Reply #2 on: September 17, 2017, 08:51:27 PM »
great story bro.......doesnt answer the question though

Offline PC-Urban-Sawyer

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Re: sawmill shelter
« Reply #3 on: September 17, 2017, 11:36:05 PM »
Blaszer,

I think that you'll find that there are very few, if any, effective do-it-yourself treatments you can legally use to prevent rot for in the ground use. There are some woods (locus, hedge, heart eastern red cedar...) which have a good deal of rot resistance. Or perhaps you can get the timber you cut treated commercially for the intended use.

Good luck!

Herb

Offline thecfarm

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Re: sawmill shelter
« Reply #4 on: September 18, 2017, 05:51:34 AM »
Just trying to help you out on the 42 inch deep part. I get frost like you too.  ;)
Model 6020-20hp Manual Thomas bandsaw,TC40A 4wd 40 hp New Holland tractor, 450 Norse Winch, Heatmor 400 OWB,YCC 1978-79

Offline fishfighter

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Re: sawmill shelter
« Reply #5 on: September 18, 2017, 07:18:32 AM »
I used direct ground contact treated post in the ground and then join my post to them.

Jim posted a great picture of joining post together. Just wished he would of done that a bit early. I treated with tar and bolted together.

 

 

 

 

Offline barbender

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Re: sawmill shelter
« Reply #6 on: September 18, 2017, 07:16:29 PM »
Depending on how fancy of a shed you are building, I don't know if I'd worry about the posts being full footing depth, either. The concensus on here that I've seen many a time is that there is no field applied chemical treatment that is worth messing with. Use either a naturally rot resistant species, green treated, or some other method. Backfilling the posts with crushed rock provides drainage and gives longer life.
Too many irons in the fire

Offline Blaszer

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Re: sawmill shelter
« Reply #7 on: September 18, 2017, 08:55:08 PM »
Thanks guys...I was contemplating using pressure treated below grade and joining my posts as you have suggested..I also have considered using 5x5 steel box tubing below grade and my posts above...Ihave heavy clay ground so Im afraid using stone around the posts would just allow water to settle right where I don't want it....A carpenter buddy of mine suggested ice and water shield that you would use on your roof.. wrap it around the wood and calk around the top seam, and it will stick to itself along the rest of the seam...Old timer buddy said to spray the post every day for a month with old ATF or used oil...I know some people(and gov agencies) wouldn't approve of this one..

Offline Brian_Weekley

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Re: sawmill shelter
« Reply #8 on: September 18, 2017, 09:22:28 PM »
I know some people(and gov agencies) wouldn't approve of this one..
Certainly not.  That is not responsible.  Why don't you just fill sono tubes with cement and attach the posts on top?
e aho laula

Offline flyingparks

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Re: sawmill shelter
« Reply #9 on: September 23, 2017, 07:57:08 PM »
I know some people(and gov agencies) wouldn't approve of this one..
Certainly not.  That is not responsible.  Why don't you just fill sono tubes with cement and attach the posts on top?

x2

Offline Randy88

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Re: sawmill shelter
« Reply #10 on: September 25, 2017, 09:24:28 PM »
Maybe ask on here what Railroad ties are treated with, those seem to last the best in the ground around here, but those RR ties are older, maybe 20 years or older, not sure if the treatment has changed any in recent years.     As for treated posts, those are a waste of time putting in, they only last a few years at best in my area.     

I for one would agree with the sono tubes as well, but I'd go one step farther, install galvanized flat steel in the concrete and anchor those into the rebar in the tubes and have two sticking out the top of each tube, bolt your posts between them and you've got about as good a post base as you can get for the cheapest dollars anywhere, with the best anchor point you can have, most sheds with cement walls are done in this fashion around here for every post that sits on the wall.    Galvanized flats won't rust out or corrode in the cement.    Most are about four or five feet long and stick half in the cement and leave the other half stick out to bolt the posts between, that also helps to keep the sono tube straight as well hooked to the post that high up on the post, in case you hit them with a loader or log later in life.   

Offline VictorH

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Re: sawmill shelter
« Reply #11 on: September 25, 2017, 09:59:06 PM »
I'm putting up a small Timber-frame and am using Diamond Piers.  They seem to work very well and are easy to install.  The ones I'm using were $125.00 each, so not the cheapest route but not having to dig holes and order/mix cement was worth it for me.

Offline kantuckid

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Re: sawmill shelter
« Reply #12 on: October 28, 2017, 03:40:13 PM »
This has been up a bit but I'll post anyway
I used pressure treated for mine. The old timers poured used crankcase oil into the hole until filled then inserted a sawed oak post. Not known to be nice for the environment...  :D
OP, etc., as your younger, realize that used oil was commonly placed on dirt roads back then so not like it was thought of in the same way. Same with "Penta" on wood or creosote. Last time I looked in Canada you could still buy creosote up there? I wonder if they check for it at the border or not as I've considered fetching some for my barns here in KY while up there fishing.
OP-you could saw whatever then buy plastic sleeves designed for post frame buildings.
Termites living in Buffalo, NY must be tough little 8!@#%^&*?
FWIW, I built my own truss for an open front shed shelter that allows horizontal log access of 20'.
Kan=Kansas;tuck=Kentucky;kid=what I'm not


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