The Forestry Forum is sponsored in part by:


Forestry Forum
Sponsored by:


TimberKing Sawmills




Toll Free 1-800-582-0470

LogRite Tools



Forest Products Industry Insurance


Norwood Industries Inc.


Sawmill & Woodlot Magazine



Your source for Portable Sawmills, Edgers, Resaws, Sharpeners, Setters, Bandsaw Blades and Sawmill Parts

EZ Boardwalk Sawmills. More Saw For Less Money!

STIHLDealers.com sponsored by Northeast STIHL


Woodland Sawmills

Peterson Swingmills

 KASCO SharpTech WoodMaxx Blades

Turbosawmill

Sawmill Exchange

BRUTE FORCE Authorized Dealer

Woodshax Outdoor Vending Solutions

FARMA


Council Tool

Baker Products

ECHO-Bearcat

Arborwear



Author Topic: Advice on sawmill design  (Read 1277 times)

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

Offline Jrpitdog

  • member
  • *
  • Posts: 11
  • Age: 35
  • Location: Montrose Co
  • Gender: Male
  • I'm new!
    • Share Post
Re: Advice on sawmill design
« Reply #20 on: November 09, 2017, 02:17:28 PM »
So if youall could have a couple hydro functions what would they be? Log lifter? Turner? Saw travel?
Have the hydraulics to the heavy or repetitive work
i would say these, in this order
Saw travel
log stops/log clamp
Turner
Log leveler, toe boards

a Log lifter can be a tractor to load the log onto the mill

a good source for hydraulic parts is
http://www.surpluscenter.com/

Ah yes surplus center I know it well, its where i ordered most of my log splitter parts years ago. I also know the boneyard at my work well😉

Offline Kbeitz

  • Senior Member x2
  • *****
  • Posts: 6547
  • Age: 65
  • Location: Millville, Pa.
  • Gender: Male
  • Never enough time...
    • Share Post
    • My Hobbies
Re: Advice on sawmill design
« Reply #21 on: November 09, 2017, 04:23:39 PM »
So if youall could have a couple hydro functions what would they be? Log lifter? Turner? Saw travel?

Wheelchair motors are great for Saw travel...
Collector and builder of many things.
Love machine shop work
and Wood work shop work
And now a saw mill work

Online moodnacreek

  • Senior Member
  • ****
  • Posts: 324
  • Location: Orange County NY
  • Gender: Male
  • Sawin by the notches
    • Share Post
Re: Advice on sawmill design
« Reply #22 on: November 09, 2017, 06:03:55 PM »
Build high off the ground, even 2 story, in the back corner of the lot under a shed roof that sheds the snow out of the way. The mill should feed a nice lumber yard where it's easy to get around. I wish I had do ne this everyday.

Offline bandmiller2

  • Senior Member x2
  • *****
  • Posts: 8445
  • Location: Franklin Ma.
  • Gender: Male
    • Share Post
Re: Advice on sawmill design
« Reply #23 on: November 09, 2017, 08:26:25 PM »
Pitdog, I built my own band mill about 15 years ago and really had to change little. Have the bed of the mill at a handy working height. If you will have hydraulics you might as well have a turner and power feed. I chose to build a two plane clamp/turner and it does 90% of my clamping and turning. Leave yourself enough room around the band wheels to make band changing easier. Frank C.
A man armed with common sense is packing a big piece

Offline thecfarm

  • Senior Member x2
  • *****
  • Posts: 25930
  • Age: 56
  • Location: Chesterville,Maine
  • Gender: Male
  • If I don't do it,it don't get done
    • Share Post
Re: Advice on sawmill design
« Reply #24 on: November 09, 2017, 08:48:43 PM »
 Picture of the bunk out.


 

Picture of it in place. This is the 2x3 track that the heads rides on.

 

 
Model 6020-20hp Manual Thomas bandsaw,TC40A 4wd 40 hp New Holland tractor, 450 Norse Winch, Heatmor 400 OWB,YCC 1978-79

Online Crusarius

  • Senior Member x2
  • *****
  • Posts: 1150
  • Age: 40
  • Location: Canadice, New York
  • Gender: Male
  • Lost in....
    • Share Post
    • RockModified.com
Re: Advice on sawmill design
« Reply #25 on: November 09, 2017, 09:30:02 PM »
I like it. I may have to integrate that on mine. But I think I have the spacing pretty good to make it so I won't need it.
I knew what I thought I meant.

Offline DbltreeBelgians

  • Full Member
  • **
  • Posts: 76
  • Age: 53
  • Location: N.W. Ohio
  • Gender: Male
    • Share Post
Re: Advice on sawmill design
« Reply #26 on: November 09, 2017, 10:58:08 PM »
Welcome to the Forestry Forum Jrpitdog.  I am a sawmill user not a sawmill builder, but following your progress will be interesting.

I have often visited Montrose and have a fascination for the Uncompahgre having hunted 61 once and 62 many times.  Grand Mesa is also a favorite spot.

Thanks,  my family and I love the western slope. I usually hunt 65, otc archery for me 😁

Welcome to the Forestry Forum Jrpitdog. Im envious of you living in Montrose. I grew up in Grand Jct and I got married in Gunnison Co up the Alpine Plateau Road at my parents place at Arrowhead Ranch. I hunted  fudd-smiley in 66 and some on Grand Mesa but not for quite a while now. I have a sister that still lives in Jct and someday Id like to come back to the Western Slope when I retire.

Brent

Online ljohnsaw

  • Senior Member x2
  • *****
  • Posts: 2834
  • Age: 58
  • Location: Northern California
  • Gender: Male
  • Happily retired... Working harder than ever!
    • Share Post
Re: Advice on sawmill design
« Reply #27 on: November 09, 2017, 11:34:22 PM »
Make it high enough.  Mine is about mid-thigh height.  If I have to turn a BIG log (manually), I hop up on the rail or even the bunk. 

I have moveable bunks designed after theCfarm's:

 

 

 

Sorry for the blurry pictures.  The 2x3 rail is supported by cutoffs of the material I used (IIRC 5# structural steel channel).  I had to grind off a little on the bottom of the channel on the bunks so they could slide in.  I use a 1/2" bolt to lock them in place.  The uprights are 3# structural along with a 2-" square tube to hold the log stops.

The T handle is a bolt to lock the log stop at the desired height.  The horizontal 2" tube has a slider for the log clamps.  The 2x3 angle is the actual log bunk.  The space between was supposed to have a jack to lift a toe roller - never got around to making them.

What I would do different (and will make them this winter) is better log clamps.  I have a not so good cam-like system that tends to move and lift the log a little.  I'm going to make the simple push down cam lock that someone posted on here - just have to find it again for the name credit.
John Sawicky

Just North-East of Sacramento...

SkyTrak 9038, Davis Little Monster backhoe, Case 16+4 Trencher, Home Built 38" cut Bandmill up to 64' - using it all to build a timber frame cabin.


Share via delicious Share via digg Share via facebook Share via linkedin Share via pinterest Share via reddit Share via stumble Share via tumblr Share via twitter

xx
Advice on knock down storage shelves design?

Started by Brad_bb on General Woodworking

11 Replies
2674 Views
Last post August 19, 2009, 01:23:58 AM
by Brad_bb
xx
Log Home Framing Design Advice.... on Different Designs i.e. Listed Below

Started by H60 Hawk Pilot on Timber Framing/Log construction

14 Replies
2960 Views
Last post November 19, 2010, 11:49:16 AM
by H60 Hawk Pilot
xx
Sawmill design question?

Started by Gundog on Sawmills and Milling

21 Replies
1285 Views
Last post December 19, 2016, 09:05:16 PM
by thecfarm
xx
A Different Design for a Sawmill Roof

Started by AlaskaLes on Sawmills and Milling

10 Replies
1981 Views
Last post September 23, 2016, 01:31:46 PM
by AlaskaLes
 


Powered by EzPortal