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Author Topic: M14 Belsaw  (Read 1571 times)

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Offline Log Jammer

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M14 Belsaw
« on: December 06, 2017, 10:40:20 AM »
I have a Belsaw M14 and need to change the belts. Could anybody help on what belts would work best and any tricks on changing them? Please and Thank you

Online Don P

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Re: M14 Belsaw
« Reply #1 on: December 06, 2017, 11:06:41 AM »
It's been awhile, I remember taking the tractor side bearing loose. Thread in a couple of belts and wire a spare or two to the outside frame rail. I'll see if I can read anything on my spare.

Offline Log Jammer

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Re: M14 Belsaw
« Reply #2 on: December 06, 2017, 12:26:13 PM »
Great, I appreciate that.

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Re: M14 Belsaw
« Reply #3 on: December 06, 2017, 02:01:38 PM »
Its a Goodyear, these are the numbers on it;
84570
4L570
A55F

I'm at the very top of the adjustment slots on the feedworks, I'd say it should be an inch longer.

Offline Log Jammer

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Re: M14 Belsaw
« Reply #4 on: December 06, 2017, 02:58:29 PM »
Alright. I will take a look. My other two belts seem to have too much slack, this causes the carriage to suddenly stop.

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Re: M14 Belsaw
« Reply #5 on: December 06, 2017, 03:49:50 PM »
They should have enough slack to freely slip until the idler from the hand stick engages either one. The spring should hold the stick and idlers in the neutral position where the carriage will stop.

Offline Log Jammer

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Re: M14 Belsaw
« Reply #6 on: December 11, 2017, 07:24:46 PM »
Belts are A59, dog side. A65, blade side, and 4L600 for the mandrel shaft belt.

Offline moodnacreek

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Re: M14 Belsaw
« Reply #7 on: December 13, 2017, 07:52:32 PM »
While this is not the answer to your question it may help some day.  Remove the feed box and   mount a drum, say 5" pipe on hanger bearings at the same position as the drum on the original feed.  Find the smallest 'B' pulley that can be mounted on the mandrel outboard to drive the bell saw feed to be mounted out board and be driven with said  'B' pulley. Now get #60 chain and sprockets and drive new  cable drum with old feed box. I did this 30 years ago and it still works.   The  'a' belt is no good and too hard to change. This modification fixes the slippage and service problem but keep an eye on the feed gears as the roll pins shear .  Also I made that new drum the width of the ways [much wider]

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Re: M14 Belsaw
« Reply #8 on: February 16, 2018, 11:51:27 PM »
Moodnacreek, Thanks! Is there any chance of getting a picture of this?

Offline moodnacreek

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Re: M14 Belsaw
« Reply #9 on: February 17, 2018, 05:59:12 PM »
Log jammer, I,m still in the stone age here although I want to learn as I have collected a lot of sawmill literature over the years and have no one to share it with [that's interested].

Offline moodnacreek

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Re: M14 Belsaw
« Reply #10 on: February 22, 2018, 07:21:25 PM »
log jammer, have been trying like mad to get photos on. My wife is learning to do it. [ It's hopeless for me]  Here goes nothing:  THE drive pully on the mandrel you can not buy. It is a blank 'b' with a shaft collar on each side welded or bolted. Surplus center will have everything you need. The blank pully could be 'weld a sprocket type', x bore = 2 " and get 1 3/4 split smei collars. They should be broached for a key. I used pipe to get lever on sawers side of mill.


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