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Author Topic: Planning stage of new bandmill build  (Read 2185 times)

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Offline starmac

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Re: Planning stage of new bandmill build
« Reply #20 on: December 19, 2017, 08:34:17 PM »
So, what is wrong with an electric clutch, same switch could activate the throttle.
I like the idea of the hydraulic pump with an electric clutch too, except you would have a mess with hydraulic lines running back and forth with the head, that would be a pita.
Old LT40HD, old log truck, old MM forklift, and several huskies.

Offline Georgia088

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Re: Planning stage of new bandmill build
« Reply #21 on: December 19, 2017, 10:59:18 PM »
would it be possible to use a centrifugal clutch off of something else? I used a golf cart to build my sawmill. Could you find an old golf cart? They make a tapered adapter for 1" shafts. Or, if you wanted to go electric, could you use a clutch off of a lawn mower. There are several that have electric clutches to engage the blade... maybe I'm missing something, but just a thought.

Offline Kbeitz

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Re: Planning stage of new bandmill build
« Reply #22 on: December 20, 2017, 06:11:35 AM »
You could just tilt you engine to tighten the belt for a simple clutch...
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Offline Hilltop366

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Re: Planning stage of new bandmill build
« Reply #23 on: December 20, 2017, 08:42:14 AM »
Could use a linear actuator or hydraulic cylinder if you are using hydraulics or small winch/ gear motor to tension belt(s). Perhaps a spring in the system would prevent over tensioning.

Offline Crusarius

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Re: Planning stage of new bandmill build
« Reply #24 on: December 20, 2017, 09:36:20 AM »
The clutch I purchased through linn lumber was $310. that was for the 1" shaft. it is 2 pulley clutch. I am using the same 22 hp predator you are talking about. So far seems to work well but I have not cut anything yet.
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Offline rrleesb

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Re: Planning stage of new bandmill build
« Reply #25 on: December 22, 2017, 11:35:48 AM »
V groove rollers or U groove for the carriage?  I have looked at Cooks and the Linn site and they are both about $55 bucks each.  There must be a better option.  What should I be searching for?  Ebay?

I'm getting ready to put my steel order in so I'd like to nail down a plan.

Offline ktm250rider

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Re: Planning stage of new bandmill build
« Reply #26 on: December 22, 2017, 04:01:51 PM »
i found V-Groove Castors on ebay for about 40 bucks for 4.  They are a little over 2 inches wide so i had to change my mounting plan.  Otherwise the wheels would have hit my back stops.

Offline Kbeitz

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Re: Planning stage of new bandmill build
« Reply #27 on: December 22, 2017, 05:13:03 PM »
E-bay...  Search

3"Inch Steel V Groove Wheel Driveway Gate Wheel Single Bearing Slide Gate 2 PCS

$26.00
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Offline Crusarius

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Re: Planning stage of new bandmill build
« Reply #28 on: December 22, 2017, 06:31:35 PM »
I ended up ordering from linn when I decided not to use angle for the rails. My thought was if I drop something on the point of the angle it will bulge out both side and create a bump in the track. That is why I chose the 3/8" with linn rollers.

If only I had a lathe. I would have found the bearings I liked and made my own wheels. Turning 4 wheels at work takes a little to much time.
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Offline rrleesb

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Re: Planning stage of new bandmill build
« Reply #29 on: December 26, 2017, 03:10:46 PM »
Ok, got some basic plans drawn up.   How does this look?  It's an adjustable bunk using a fine thread 3/4" bolt into a welded in nut on the bottom side.

24' x 4' flat top area of trailer and the about 30" forward for the trailer hitch


Bunk detail


Attaching bracket


Any issues you can see with the above plan?


Offline ljohnsaw

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Re: Planning stage of new bandmill build
« Reply #30 on: December 26, 2017, 04:22:33 PM »
Some questions...

Are the side pieces for your track/frame 2x5?  What wall thickness?  I would recommend no less than 3/16" with 1/4" being much better (just heavy).  What is the spacing on your bunks?  They look too close together.  I've found that you need between 5 and 7 feet between bunks to allow for logs with sweeps - makes it easier to level them.  I did movable bunks so I can have anywhere from 2' on up if I get short stuff. 

Are you trying to show that you will have two straps (each end) on your adjustable bunks with a bolt going through to tighten up when you have them set?  I'm not sure if there is much benefit there with the adjustable.  Your track MUST be absolutely flat and the bunks just need to be all the same height - if not a flat track but you adjust your bunks to be flat, your boards will come out bad.  Also, are your adjustable bunk bars 2"?  The first time you drop a 4,000# log on them, it might bend with that very long span between supports (bolts).

Is that a piece of flat bar on the left that will act as the rail for you head (v-groove wheels?)?  Make sure there is sufficient space for sawdust to get out of the way.  I have my head riding on the edge of 1/4" angle and the sawdust still manages to pack into the v-grooves!   I need to install track wipers.

Sorry to sound negative.  Just trying to help you head off potential problems.
John Sawicky

Just North-East of Sacramento...

SkyTrak 9038, Davis Little Monster backhoe, Case 16+4 Trencher, Home Built 38" cut Bandmill up to 64' - using it all to build a timber frame cabin.

Offline Crusarius

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Re: Planning stage of new bandmill build
« Reply #31 on: December 26, 2017, 05:47:33 PM »
I agree with ljohnsaw.

The one thing I would change is the tongue. if you are having to walk around the front of the mill a lot you will not like the tongue sticking out. I made mine with a receiver tube that can remove the tongue so I can remove it. This serves 2 purposes. first, I can take it off and have it completely out of the way so I do not have to walk around it or constantly tag my knees on it. Second makes it much harder for a would be thief to borrow it when the tongue is in my truck and going home with me.

I will post pics when I get them uploaded. I just finished it today.
I knew what I thought I meant.

Offline rrleesb

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Re: Planning stage of new bandmill build
« Reply #32 on: December 26, 2017, 07:50:24 PM »
Some questions...

Are the side pieces for your track/frame 2x5?  What wall thickness?  I would recommend no less than 3/16" with 1/4" being much better (just heavy).  What is the spacing on your bunks?  They look too close together.  I've found that you need between 5 and 7 feet between bunks to allow for logs with sweeps - makes it easier to level them.  I did movable bunks so I can have anywhere from 2' on up if I get short stuff. 

Are you trying to show that you will have two straps (each end) on your adjustable bunks with a bolt going through to tighten up when you have them set?  I'm not sure if there is much benefit there with the adjustable.  Your track MUST be absolutely flat and the bunks just need to be all the same height - if not a flat track but you adjust your bunks to be flat, your boards will come out bad.  Also, are your adjustable bunk bars 2"?  The first time you drop a 4,000# log on them, it might bend with that very long span between supports (bolts).

Is that a piece of flat bar on the left that will act as the rail for you head (v-groove wheels?)?  Make sure there is sufficient space for sawdust to get out of the way.  I have my head riding on the edge of 1/4" angle and the sawdust still manages to pack into the v-grooves!   I need to install track wipers.

Sorry to sound negative.  Just trying to help you head off potential problems.

No problems sounding negative, I was soliciting advise and I take it as such.

The rails will be 2x6 3/16" wall, and the cross members will be 2x4 3/16".  The top bunks will be 2x2 1/4" wall.  I had laid out a 30" spacing for the bunks.  Too close?  I'll space them out further if need be.  Should I leave a few bunks closer together?

The flat bar is the same setup that  Crusarius is using with a U groove roller.  Like what Linn Sawmills sells.

Offline rrleesb

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Re: Planning stage of new bandmill build
« Reply #33 on: December 26, 2017, 07:51:55 PM »

The one thing I would change is the tongue. if you are having to walk around the front of the mill a lot you will not like the tongue sticking out. I made mine with a receiver tube that can remove the tongue so I can remove it. This serves 2 purposes. first, I can take it off and have it completely out of the way so I do not have to walk around it or constantly tag my knees on it. Second makes it much harder for a would be thief to borrow it when the tongue is in my truck and going home with me.


Is a receiver style tube stout enough for a heavy sawmill or to haul logs?

Offline ljohnsaw

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Re: Planning stage of new bandmill build
« Reply #34 on: December 27, 2017, 02:07:49 AM »
No problems sounding negative, I was soliciting advise and I take it as such.

The rails will be 2x6 3/16" wall, and the cross members will be 2x4 3/16".  The top bunks will be 2x2 1/4" wall.  I had laid out a 30" spacing for the bunks.  Too close?  I'll space them out further if need be.  Should I leave a few bunks closer together?

The flat bar is the same setup that  Crusarius is using with a U groove roller.  Like what Linn Sawmills sells.

You should have a space to be able to take short logs - perhaps 30 to 36".  IMO, the rest should be no closer than 4' and 6' is not too far apart.

I just wanted to make sure you were NOT using a flat roller on the flat face of the 2x6.  How will you attach it?  Bolts so you don't warp it with welding?
John Sawicky

Just North-East of Sacramento...

SkyTrak 9038, Davis Little Monster backhoe, Case 16+4 Trencher, Home Built 38" cut Bandmill up to 64' - using it all to build a timber frame cabin.

Offline rrleesb

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Re: Planning stage of new bandmill build
« Reply #35 on: December 27, 2017, 10:43:53 AM »
Does Woodmizer not use an adjustable bunk setup?  I was just trying to copy a successful design.


Offline Magicman

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Re: Planning stage of new bandmill build
« Reply #36 on: December 27, 2017, 10:48:53 AM »
Yes they are adjustable and after 15 years of sawing mine have never needed "re-adjusting".   :)
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Offline Crusarius

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Re: Planning stage of new bandmill build
« Reply #37 on: December 28, 2017, 11:36:36 PM »

The one thing I would change is the tongue. if you are having to walk around the front of the mill a lot you will not like the tongue sticking out. I made mine with a receiver tube that can remove the tongue so I can remove it. This serves 2 purposes. first, I can take it off and have it completely out of the way so I do not have to walk around it or constantly tag my knees on it. Second makes it much harder for a would be thief to borrow it when the tongue is in my truck and going home with me.


Is a receiver style tube stout enough for a heavy sawmill or to haul logs?

I hope so. if not I will make it beefier but I think it will be fine the tube will be 6' long 42" sticking out.
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Offline coyotebait

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Re: Planning stage of new bandmill build
« Reply #38 on: January 15, 2018, 08:32:24 PM »
I agree with ljohnsaw.

The one thing I would change is the tongue. if you are having to walk around the front of the mill a lot you will not like the tongue sticking out. I made mine with a receiver tube that can remove the tongue so I can remove it. This serves 2 purposes. first, I can take it off and have it completely out of the way so I do not have to walk around it or constantly tag my knees on it. Second makes it much harder for a would be thief to borrow it when the tongue is in my truck and going home with me.

I will post pics when I get them uploaded. I just finished it today.
maybe a telescoping tongue to get it out of the way.

Offline Crusarius

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Re: Planning stage of new bandmill build
« Reply #39 on: January 16, 2018, 07:33:53 AM »
ooh. I like the telescoping tongue. slide it all the way in when not towing pull it back out and pin it in place for towing. To late to put that in my build but kool idea.

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