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cable types

Started by postville, September 15, 2011, 10:00:03 PM

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postville

Is there a cable that is more flexible than standard winch cable?
Is there a type of cable less prone to kinking?
Anyone tried to get rid of a kink by heating?
Bob
LT40 25hp Kohler, Gehl 6635, Valby grapple, Ford 4600, Farmi winch, Stihl saws

John Mc

I can't answer your first two questions, but I can tell you if you heat a cable enough to have any effect on getting a kink out, you have compromised the strength of the cable.
If the only tool you have is a hammer, you tend to see every problem as a nail.   - Abraham Maslow

beenthere

Have you looked at the high strength ropes?
south central Wisconsin
It may be that my sole purpose in life is simply to serve as a warning to others

John Woodworth

You can get Rope Core cable but it doesn't have the strength or longivity of regular winch line, depending on your winch and what your pulling would be a better choice than rope. Some times you can work the kinks out by hooking on to a stump and parking with a strain on it when you go home at night, no heat the cable will break there.
Two Garret 21 skidders, Garret 10 skidder, 580 Case Backhoe, Mobile Dimension sawmill, 066, 046 mag, 044, 036mag, 034, 056 mag, 075, 026, lewis winch

submarinesailor

Post,

According to this web site:  http://www.industrial-rigging.com/HTML/wire-rope.html

"The greater the number of wires in a strand the more flexibility in the wire rope. The lower or less amount of wires in a strand the stiffer the wire rope. The center core may be made with a polypropylene Fiber Center (FC) or with a steel Independent Wire Rope Center (IWRC)."

I would try to find some 6X37 wire.

Bruce


Ohio_Bill

I have had real good luck with Swaged winch line . It is machined and seems to not kink or tangle near as bad as regular wire rope configuration  . Baileys sells it .
Bill
USAF Veteran  C141 Loadmaster
LT 40 HDD42-RA   , Allis Chalmers I 500 Forklift , Allis Chalmers 840 Loader , International 4300 , Zetor 6245 Tractor – Loader ,Bob Cat 763 , Riehl Steel Edger

HiTech

      The Swaged Cable is nice but way too stiff to work with. By the time it softens up it is wore out. The plus side, it will last longer. I prefer the non-swaged. Much easier to work with. One thing about any cable...pull on it all day and you know you have done something. Snow, chokers, and cable make a person tired real quick.

Skiddah

Cable choice is based on a matter of preference, load, and application.  Chosing the best configuration for yourself is always an experiment.

For me it's 3/4" swaged down to 5/8", 70' long.  It's a cable tough enough to hang my skidder by it over a cliff, not that I would ever do that.

To maintain an effective cable, it's all about how you break it in and maintain it.  During the break in period, I always try to winch the entire line out and then in under load to create a tight fit on the drum and minimize or eliminate bird's nesting.  Also, depending on your winch, just don't let it free spool.  When you drop the tension off the cable and the winch free spools a little too well, you see the effect with a big bird's nest, pig tails on the cable, etc. 

When I back my skidder in to hook up, the first step I take is to slowly release the winch handle until my slides have hit the ground and the cable just begins to go slack and return the lever to the hold position.  Then I'll pull the handle back up into free spool and begin hooking up my chokers.  Since the slides are already on the ground at this point, the cable doesn't move off the drum until I pull it out to the logs I'm hooking to.  I pull as evenly as possible to avoid jerking the cable off the drum and making a bird's nest.  I try to hook up as best I can in a straight line.  I've found the less pulling I have to do side to side the better.  Sometimes it's unavoidable and you need to hook side to side, but I always try to have a relatively straight vector.

The first few nights I'm breaking in a new cable, I'll park the machine out of the way with the full line hooked to a tree or a stump and leave it under tension.  In the morning, I'll winch the machine back to the hook up point in neutral.  I'll repeat this process every so often after the break in period to maintain the cable as well.

When dealing with cable in my situation, flexibility is nice, but strength is better.

John Mc

Is it recommended to oil or grease the cable? I've heard recommendations to grease or oil it to help prevent corrosion, and others say leave it dry, since the grease or oil will pick up more dirt and grit, which can shorten cable life through abrasion and holding moisture.

If it makes any difference this is for a 3-pt hitch logging winch (similar to a Farmi 351).

John Mc
If the only tool you have is a hammer, you tend to see every problem as a nail.   - Abraham Maslow

240b

I began to grease the end of the cable which is on the drum 90% of the time. I only use maybe the first 30' or so most of the time, so its not to bad to handle.   It is one nasty mess when you do need to use  the whole length though. I've found the cable flexes better and has less damage due to crushing on the drum because it slides against it self better. I don't know how it would work on a tractor winch with open clutches etc.. A product called fluid film (bond auto in vt) works good,  its wool oil (smells weird)  If you work in the winter, dirt isn't really an issue. But even in the summer I don't see enough grit sticking to it to bother. I think kinking it or some other operator induced problem will wear it out more the a little dirt too.

John Mc

I've used fluid film for other things. It's good stuff. I never would have thought of it for something like this...  Thanks
If the only tool you have is a hammer, you tend to see every problem as a nail.   - Abraham Maslow

240b

As you know it really "creeps" so you don't need much.. I did my whole truck frame with 4 cans.

bill m

A 6 x 37 wire rope is made of 6 strands of 37 wires in each strand. It will be flexible but the wires are small and will not take a lot of abuse. In a 6 x 19 the wires are bigger and will last longer but it will not be as flexible. All of my tractor winches use 3/8 - 6x19 wire core and I have not had any problems with them.
NH tc55da Metavic 4x4 trailer Stihl and Husky saws

sparky

Quote from: postville on September 15, 2011, 10:00:03 PM
Is there a cable that is more flexible than standard winch cable?
Is there a type of cable less prone to kinking?
Anyone tried to get rid of a kink by heating?
Bob
I get used, rope core, cable for free from a friend that works on passenger elevators. I expect it would have the flexibility you are looking for. The elevator companies replace it when it fails an inspection. I have used it for a number of purposes, but not on a winch. I just put in an order for several hundred feet of 1/2". Send me a PM and I will provide youwith more information.

Sparky
I'tnl 2050 with Prentrice 110, Custom built 48" left-hand circular and 52" Bellsaw right-hand circular mills, Jonsered 2171, Stihl 084, and too many other chainsaws. John Deere 3020 and Oliver 1800 with FELs. 20" 4-sided planer and misc.

thecfarm

John Mc,I have a 3 pt winch too. I run my cable out every so often too than winch myself back to it. I hook on to a tree usually now. I don't twitch much big stuff out now. Makes it work alot easier for a while.
Model 6020-20hp Manual Thomas bandsaw,TC40A 4wd 40 hp New Holland tractor, 450 Norse Winch, Heatmor 400 OWB,YCC 1978-79

g_man

My Farmi Winch manual says don't oil or grease the cable for fear it will migrate to the clutch surface.

HiTech

          I have found a little diesel fuel on the cable keeps them in good condition. When i fill the skidder I always put some on the cable. I will pour a little on the drum and follow the cable right to the chokers. I have literally seen sparks fly off dry cables when winching. There may be better applications but this works for me.

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