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Norwood's Frontier line up of OS 23,27,31

Started by adirondacker, July 18, 2019, 06:26:02 AM

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adirondacker

Could you owners of Norwood's Frontier Mills help me out with something. My OS 23 is missing the spacer that is underneath the big compression spring (EZ blade tensioning). When you torque down your T-handle ...do you compress the spring against the spacer and then stop...about 5 1/2 turns. And what keeps the handle from not rotating back off? My spacer is missing and vibration of mill cause handle to loosen.
I would appreciate all feed back.
Adirondacker

Dana Stanley

I would recommend that you call or e-mail Norwood, and let them know you were missing the spacer, and ask how much torque you need to apply. The woodland mills is almost identical, and it is 25ft lbs. Enough to compress the spring most of the way. I believe Norwood has a rep here on the forum. Not sure if their frontier is the same but here is a talk on the tension by Norwood.  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D0QFuToP7uE
Making Sawdust, boards and signs.
Woodland Mills HM-126
Kabota B-7800 with backhoe and loader
Ford Ranger, Husqvarna 455 20", Mac 610 24", other chainsaws 14", 23 ton log splitter
Matthew 3:10

APope

I tighten until the threaded portion of the handle just snugs to the washer underneath and give it 4 to 4 1/2 turns by count. More turns as I have put cutting time on a blade. I have seen some wavy cuts but they involved large knots in white oak while slabbing. I have had no issues with the handle moving and loosing tension while cutting. I am still learning the mill and how to cut.
Unafraid to use my chainsaw, JD 2640, Frontier OS31

OHBucknut

It's supposed to be 5 Full turns (10 1/2 turns) from what I have seen. I run 4.5 full turns or so. 

Dana Stanley

Quote from: OHBucknut on July 18, 2019, 08:29:31 PM
It's supposed to be 5 Full turns (10 1/2 turns) from what I have seen. I run 4.5 full turns or so.
When do you start counting;when the handle just starts touching the spring?
Making Sawdust, boards and signs.
Woodland Mills HM-126
Kabota B-7800 with backhoe and loader
Ford Ranger, Husqvarna 455 20", Mac 610 24", other chainsaws 14", 23 ton log splitter
Matthew 3:10

OHBucknut

Yes. But I'm not an expert by any means. I just got my mill recently also

DavidLovesUSA

Just purchased a Frontier OS31 and got it all put together.  I had a couple issues but that is for another post. I cut up my first log.  Yeh!  All went amazingly smooth. 
 
Then...  On the second cut on the second log, BAM, blade came off.  I have been through the manual, followed all the instructions, and I have now ruined 3 blades at $25 a pop.  It tracks, all looks good, then BAM it is off again.  Once I got one more slice and a half, then a half a slice, then it came off before I even hit the log.  Rinse repeat.  I snugged up the drive belt to see if it loosened up and that was causing the problem.  I am being very consistent with the blade tension.  Five full turns from just taking the slack out of the blade.  I have checked and triple checked the tracking putting the gullets flush with the front of the wheel and checked the blade guides making sure there is enough play so there is no binding.  I tried a new blade three times.  The belts look fine and should still be brand new.  I suppose I could change them if you think that would fix the problem. 
 
Any suggestions!  Please help!


 
David Thomson
Timber Trappings

Dana Stanley

Quote from: DavidLovesUSA on August 09, 2019, 03:43:13 AM
Just purchased a Frontier OS31 and got it all put together.  I had a couple issues but that is for another post. I cut up my first log.  Yeh!  All went amazingly smooth.  

Then…  On the second cut on the second log, BAM, blade came off.  I have been through the manual, followed all the instructions, and I have now ruined 3 blades at $25 a pop.  It tracks, all looks good, then BAM it is off again.  Once I got one more slice and a half, then a half a slice, then it came off before I even hit the log.  Rinse repeat.  I snugged up the drive belt to see if it loosened up and that was causing the problem.  I am being very consistent with the blade tension.  Five full turns from just taking the slack out of the blade.  I have checked and triple checked the tracking putting the gullets flush with the front of the wheel and checked the blade guides making sure there is enough play so there is no binding.  I tried a new blade three times.  The belts look fine and should still be brand new.  I suppose I could change them if you think that would fix the problem.  

Any suggestions!  Please help!



I always push the blade guides all the way back when I check the tracking then reset them. Since I have been doing that no problem. The guides can stop the blade from moving back if the tracking is off, and you will think your ok!I ruined 3 blade before I started doing that. Since your having the t handle welded anyway; I suggest you have a nut welded on the end of it so you can use a torque wrench to have a known and consistent tightness. Mine is 25' lbs. I would start there. If you have any questions feel free to PM. I don't have the same brand mill, but they are the same design. Another guy from the forum did it to his. Welded a nut on that is.
Making Sawdust, boards and signs.
Woodland Mills HM-126
Kabota B-7800 with backhoe and loader
Ford Ranger, Husqvarna 455 20", Mac 610 24", other chainsaws 14", 23 ton log splitter
Matthew 3:10

APope

My OS31 came with a B1450LI belt for the Idler (non-driven) wheel. It was laying loosely around the bandwheel axle. The parts break down supplied with my sawmill indicates that a B56 is the replacement part number. Doing the math... 1450/25.4 = 57.086

I did not care for the fit nor flop of the belt but it was a Saturday when I found it. I decided to run it. I have had no issues with jumping bands.

When putting a sharp band on, I feel the back of the wheels and try to get the bands on such that they are close to flush. The bands should be laying so that they are centered atop the wheels.

Keep an eye on the plastic covered bolt that secures the idler side cover. Mine seems to loosen.
Hope you get to sawing like you want to soon.
Unafraid to use my chainsaw, JD 2640, Frontier OS31

Old Greenhorn

Sounds like your blade is not tight enough. I had this same problem when I started. Took me a while to slowly increase the tension until I got solid results with no slippage. Dana has a good suggestion with the nut and a torque wrench. I suspect you may begin counting your 5 turns too soon. It is the final load on the blade that matters. Popping the blade before it's in the cut could indicate that it is not tracking properly, so check and reset those guides too. For sure, something is wrong, but although frustrating, it is fixable.
 Good Luck!
Tom Lindtveit, Woodsman Forest Products
Oscar 328 Band Mill, Husky 350, 450, 562, & 372 (Clone), Mule 3010, and too many hand tools. :) Retired and trying to make a living to stay that way. NYLT Certified.
OK, maybe I'm the woodcutter now.
I work with wood, There is a rumor I might be a woodworker.

Skip

Never, ever try back up head while blade is in log , turning, it will  happen all the time not saying that is what happened, just saying . >:(

DavidLovesUSA

Thanks for the responses.  I moved the guide blocks the first time that I set the tracking but have not sense.  I will try that first.  I will also check the tension and make sure that it is set tight enough before I set the tracking.  I can watch the spring and see the gaps between the coils close. When I set the tension at 5 turns, the gaps are almost gone. I'm guessing that you want to be careful not to close the spring completely.  

Looking at some of the other posts about the spring assembly, I see that there is a sleeve over the T bolt inside the spring.  Mine does not have that.  Is that a problem?  

Thanks for the warning about never backing up with the blade spinning.  I knew that from my Grizzly band saw but it is good to have it reinforced.  I put a wedge in the saw kerf and then gently backed the blade out by hand once off the wheels.

Thanks for the encouragement and help.  I have to say after spending many thousands on this thing and having so many problems, I was a bit down.  
David Thomson
Timber Trappings

Dana Stanley

Quote from: DavidLovesUSA on August 09, 2019, 12:53:57 PMLooking at some of the other posts about the spring assembly, I see that there is a sleeve over the T bolt inside the spring.  Mine does not have that.  Is that a problem? 

I would think that is an issue. From what I have seen on other posts it is supposed to have that collar/sleeve. One guy said his has a single collar, and that was what the diagram he had showed, but the video for the Norwood shows two, and the diagram (for the Frontier) says two, but shows one. I would call them and get the facts on that. Maybe they can tell you what the Torque would be, or if you should tighten it until the collar is pinched in between.
Making Sawdust, boards and signs.
Woodland Mills HM-126
Kabota B-7800 with backhoe and loader
Ford Ranger, Husqvarna 455 20", Mac 610 24", other chainsaws 14", 23 ton log splitter
Matthew 3:10

DavidLovesUSA

Yes, the main problem was the missing sleeve.  I spent some time one the phone with Brian from Norwood and he decided to fast ship me a sleeve.  When I put the sleeve in place I realized that I was putting way to much tension on the blade.  I guess that was causing the blade to drop off.  Now I just turn the T handle until I feel the washer snug up to the sleeve and the saw cuts like a dream.  Yes, i have been dreaming of having one of these for years and it is now a dream come true.

Thanks so much for all your help.  
David Thomson
Timber Trappings

thecfarm

David,welcome to the forum and welcome to the world of sawing. I looked at mills for 20 years before I bought one.
What's all the plan for the lumber?
Get a Logrite cantdog or peavey,sponsor on the left. Nice people. You will need at least one to turn the logs.
Model 6020-20hp Manual Thomas bandsaw,TC40A 4wd 40 hp New Holland tractor, 450 Norse Winch, Heatmor 400 OWB,YCC 1978-79

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