New chainsaw recommendation

[G-Dub]

Hi Guys,

I'm not in the forestry business, but hoping you can help me out.  I have about 20 trees on my property that have fallen from various storms over the last couple of years.  A couple of the trees are very large, estimating about 30".  I have a homeowner Poulan chainsaw with an 18" bar.  I think it's a 42cc motor.  It took me about 20 minutes to make a single cut through a tree that was probably about 20" diameter (a little larger than the bar).  After that abuse, I went and bought a new chain.  That helped a little, but not enough to be able to complete the job in my lifetime.  A couple of the trees had fallen across the road and the professionals who were clearing the trees off the road had a saw that was slicing through the trees like they were butter.  When I look at all the trees ahead of me, I know I need a professional saw and would like a recommendation.  After I get these 20+/- trees cleaned up, I'm not likely to need such a powerful saw again.  I got an estimate of $5k to have the trees cut up like I want them and that's a bit over my budget, so I figure even if I had to pay big $$$ for a decent chainsaw, I would still be able to complete the job relatively quickly (a couple of weekends) and not have to break the bank.  The trees are mostly hardwoods, with oak and hickory being the bulk of them.  Your recommendations on what to buy, where to buy, and roughly how much I should expect to spend would be appreciated. 

Thanks in advance!

G-Dub

[beenthere]

Welcome to the Forestry Forum.

Sounds more like you need a sharp chain, and the method and technique to keep it sharp. That will be important no matter what saw head is on the bar driving the chain. Unless the Poulan just doesn't have enough power to pull the chain through the wood, then I think the teeth are dull. Can happen quick with just a touch in the dirt, or a rock in the bark, or frozen dirt in the bark, or metal in the wood.

Those guys slicing through wood like butter had sharp chains... or else it wouldn't happen no matter what the saw was.

But any excuse to get a new saw is a good one... IMO.  ;D

Go to the threads in the Chainsaw forum here and you will find several that are asking about which saw to buy. Most of us have our favorites, but a good, knowledgeable dealer of any brand will likely be the best bet for you.

[Spartan]

Welcome to the Forestry Forum.

Sounds more like you need a sharp chain, and the method and technique to keep it sharp.

I think that hits the nail on the head.  If your saw is underpowered, with a sharp chain it will bog and you will have to keep removing pressure from it to keep it going.  If it is just slow cutting without the bog, then sharpen the chain.  New chain does not mean sharp chain either.  Get a file and start practicing.  Much more efficient than 7hp with a dull chain.

[21incher]

Welcome to the forum. When cutting try to avoid hitting the ground with the chain, depending on the type of chain it can dull it instantly. Even dirt in the bark can dull a chain quite quickly. Get a file and read some of the posts here on how to sharpen a chain. I don't know what your budget is but I purchased a Echo CS-590 timber wolf last year and am extremely pleased with it. I had a Stihl MS290 for 10 years before the Echo and it used the .325 chain. It took a lot longer to cut and bogged down on the 20 inch stuff where the Echo with .375 chain blasts right through it. 

[John Mc]

Not that I want to talk you out of buying a chainsaw, but have you looked at renting? If you only have a few trees to deal with, and this is likely a one-time occurence, it may be worth considering.

Some Home Depot store rent chainsaws (they have a 64cc Makita that might be good for your work). I believe some TrueValue hardware stores or Taylor Rental stores also rent chainsaws.

You do want to make sure it's sharpened well - in my experience, these stores aren't exactly overrun with employees who know how to do the job well.

[JohnW]

G-Dub, I think you'll be surprised by the size of the project.  If you want to do it though, take your time and do whatever it takes.  You will need more tools than just a saw.  Unless you're crafty like a pro, platic wedges and a sledge hammer will be needed at some point.  Come to think of it, that could have been the problem with your first cut.  Logs seldom lay level.  They're likely to be closing on your bar, grabbing it as you cut.  Your chainsaw manuel probably has an illustration.

You may know these things, and, if so skip it.

[Andyshine77]

What everyone said is spot on. A sharp chain is more important than having a large pro saw.

www.youtube.com/watch?v=4x-vx2Kn5UI&list=UUDzYN6LbndM64YHQp_JOb4Q 

[G-Dub]

Thank you all for the advice and recommendations.  I made a bad assumption that a new chain was a sharp chain and I think sharpening the chain will go along way towards fixing my problem.  I'll give that a shot first, then look into the recommended models mentioned.

How frequently, on average, do you guys have to stop and sharpen?  And, how long does it take you to sharpen a chain on a 24 - 28" bar?

Thank you, John Mc, regarding the rental idea.  Certainly a good option that may be more cost effective in the long run.  Especially if I can get the big stuff done in a weekend.  But, as you mention, I better learn how to sharpen a chain.

Thanks for the sharpening video, Andy!

[thecfarm]

G-Dub,welcome to the forum. A chain SHOULD be fine with each tank full of gas. maybe even two? BUT that depends on how much you keep it out of the ground. Some wood just pick up dirt. Like if a tree was beside a gravel road. A chain should be sharpened before it needs it too. It might take a few chains for you to catch on to sharpening. It's not hard,but the angles must be met and the level of the file matters too. Do you have chaps,hard hat is a good idea,safety glasses,steel toe boots? Should have plastic wedges so the bar won't get pinched when you are felling the trees and when cutting the trees up too.
On what to buy,I always push the dealer part. Yopu need a good dealer and you need to like them. You should be able to go to a dealer and tell them what you want to do,and they should talk to you and ask you questions about how much you have cut and set you up with a saw that will work for you. Be it Sthil,Husky,Echo whatever. Dealer support is a big help with questions.

[dougand3]

+1 on sharp chain everyone says. And your Poulan 42cc 18" can take 2 types of chains. 1. Green = low kickback but less aggressive due to safety bumpers. 2. Yellow = pro style chain which is more aggressive but can kickback. You most probably have 3/8" lo-pro chain. Check Oregon chain selector site for your model. Eg: PP4218av will take a yellow 91VXL062G. 62 is # of Drive Links.

[HolmenTree]

G Dub welcome to the forum.
As you mentioned  about your 20 blown downed trees up to 30" diameter  and the tree service  company  wanting $5 K to clean them up for you.
I own a tree service company so I honestly  know what your up against.  See what  what  you can do yourself and make sure  someone  is keeping  an eye on you with cell phone in hand.
If you have large hardwoods  even delimbing them lying on the  ground  is comparable  to felling trees with  binds and twisted fibers in  every direction. Like others said here make sure you have safety  gear on and it  would be a must to have a spare bar and chain on hand as you definitely  will get you saw pinched and stuck in the tree sometime or another.
Know your limitations  and what you can't  handle.....call the tree service and get another estimate just to get the trees safely  on the ground and perhaps  bucked up.
Keep an eye for widow makers ( broken  pieces  of tree hung up high in surrounding  trees.
Always keep looking up now and then as you  work.

[thecfarm]

There are ALOT of dangers cutting trees that have blown over. Watch out for the stumps. Sometimes the stump will fall back into the hole. If you cut off the tree,lets say 10-20 feet away from the stump,the whole thing might just stand back up on you. They will usually twist on you and pinch your bar. Put in a plastic wedge and tap it in as you saw. Try to stay up hill of those things. Put limbs under the tree as you saw them off. This will help you keep your chain out of the ground. Will also help with putting a chain around the logs to.