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Curved skew

Started by jueston, January 24, 2013, 10:54:04 AM

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jueston

http://www.woodturnerscatalog.com/p/7/2/33/136/-/5575/Hamlet-M2-HSS-Alan-Lacer-Skew-Chisel

Does anyone here own/use a curved skew like the one in the link, I have not been turning long but am trying to devote more time to the lathe to get better at it, I have a horrible set of tools which I would like to replace with better tools one at a time, starting with either a good skew or a good gouge. While looking at skews I found this one at rockler and it interested me. I think the curved blade might make it a little easier to keep just the right angle on the skew, which is something that I have some problems with, I tend to catch the point and destroy what I am working on A LOT.

If you don't have any experience with this kind of skew I would be glad to hear anyones advice on what turning tools they do think I should look into, I am a beginner but I want really high quality tools. so if you only had one really good tool for the lathe, what would it be?

Thanks

Jemclimber

A skew wouldn't be my first choice of tools to master.  :o  It sounds like you are doing spindle work. If so,  I would recommend a quality spindle gouge or a detail gouge or both. Both can produce a smooth finish by "riding the bevel" and are much easier to master without catches than the skew.   I really like Thompson tools.
lt15

Dodgy Loner

I agree, a gouge is a much more versatile tool than a skew. My most used tool, believe it or not, is a large roughinh gouge. It can be user for fine cuts if you know what you're doing. From what I can tell, a skew with a curved edge is pretty much the standard these days. You don't have to pay that much for a curved skew, just buy a straight one (HSS, of course) and grind it yourself.
"There is hardly anything in the world that some man cannot make a little worse and sell a little cheaper, and the people who consider price only are this man's lawful prey." -John Ruskin

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Lud

Skew chisels are old school spindle turner show-off tools.  You get one and don't have a master to show you how and it sits.  And do you really want to turn out hundreds of stiles per day....for months to learn?  That's what robots are for!

I'll second Thompson tools as I worked with the man years back and the idea of powdered steel, cryogenically hardened tools is as good as it gets.  Not cheap but a half inch bowl gouge of his might be the best investment you could make.   And make your own handle!   Drill the right diameter into a hardwood handle (or a branch like I did) put some medium CA in the hole and whack the handle end with a mallet to seat it.  To reinforce the join, wrap with braided masonline and soak with thin CA.  Awesome strength cheap.

Many of my other tools are made from old files, mower blades, flat spring steel .  Lots of good scrapers can be made from such scrap for pennies.  Save your money!

But one last suggestion.......buy a slow speed grinder .  1800 RPM is so much better than 3450 for sharpening.  One pass each way will sharpen the ladies kitchen knives like they won't believe!.........besides keeping your lathe tools sharp without overheating or wasting steel. 

Read a lot and practice a lot. Memorize how a sharp tool feels and when it doesn't feel close to that ; Touch it Up!  Keep it sharp! Turning is good stuff. 8)
Simplicity mill, Ford 1957 Golden Jubilee 841 Powermaster, 40x60 bankbarn, left-handed

Tree Feller

That curved edge on the skew is pretty standard. I'd also recommend an oval skew if you are intent on using one. The oval shape makes it easier to roll beads, etc. Personally, I rarely use the skew. I do most of my work with a deep flute bowl gouge, even on spindle turnings. With a side grind on the gouge, I can shear cut a wide area and I like the robustness of a bowl gouge over a spindle gouge. I also do a lot of faceplate turnings and using a skew there is taboo.

Count me as another Thompson Tool fan. I have Sorby, Crown and Thompson bowl gouges and like the Thompson the best...maybe because I put a large, Mesquite handle on it and have lots of leverage with it.

Any of the "name" brand tools will serve you well. They can all be re-ground to suit your ability or special applications. I'd also recommend a slow-speed grinder with a 60 to 100 grit wheel and also a Wolverine jig for sharpening. The Wolverine jig will let you sharpen your turning tools in seconds with very good results and virtually no learning curve. Sharp tools make all the difference when turning.
Cody

Logmaster LM-1 Sawmill
Kioti CK 30 w/ FEL
Stihl MS-290 Chainsaw
48" Logrite Cant Hook
Well equipped, serious, woodworking shop

jueston

Thanks for all the advice guys, I guess maybe I have been watching to many old masters on YouTube. I will say that I find it much easier to use a gouge then a skew but I find that I can get a smoother finish with the skew. That smooth finish doesn't count for anything when I catch the edge and destroy the piece though. I think after hearing your advice I will get a gouge or 2 from Thompson tools, they seem like really well made tools and they aren't absurdly expensive like you will find with lots of tools.
I already have a jet sharpener, which I got about a month ago, I figured that buying good tools was worthless if I could not sharpen them, so I got the sharpener first, and I have been practicing my sharpening and my turning, with the tools that came with my lathe.
The skew I have is not curved, but I broke the tip off of it the other day and I think I will regrind it to a curved edge and see if I can do better with that.

Tree Feller

If the surface is not smooth enough off-the-tool, then go to the 80 grit gouge and smooth it up.   :D
Cody

Logmaster LM-1 Sawmill
Kioti CK 30 w/ FEL
Stihl MS-290 Chainsaw
48" Logrite Cant Hook
Well equipped, serious, woodworking shop

jueston

oh i do, i almost always start my sanding at 80 and then work my way up before finishing, and the whole time, i think to myself, "someday i will be good enough with my tools to not need to start at 80...."

Lud

"80 grit gouge" is rich, Cody.  Glad to hear you have the grinder, Jueston.  Did you get a grinding jig too?  With the bowl gouges it can be great to slap it in the jig, spin it lightly on the grinder and refresh the edge with minimal material loss.

As an aside, the jig holds the same angle so well , that recently I changed the angle of the jig and was impressed how the tools cutting "feel" was  different.  I'd fallen into a groove where all my tools had the same angle.  Is that good or is it limiting?  There's something else to be explored!  Whee!
Simplicity mill, Ford 1957 Golden Jubilee 841 Powermaster, 40x60 bankbarn, left-handed

Dan_Shade

I have and like the Alan Lacer style skew chisels.

I pretty much do all of my spindle turning with a skew, from square to round.  I rarely pick up a gouge these days.

there are two very good videos on using skew chisels, Alan Lacer's "The Skew Chisel, the Dark Side, the Sweet Side" and Mike Darlow's "The taming of the Skew"

the one drawback to the Lacer Style Skew is it is very thick, which can make tight detail work and parting off a bit of a pain.  I pick up an old cheap narrow skew to part off....
Woodmizer LT40HDG25 / Stihl 066 alaskan
lots of dull bands and chains

There's a fine line between turning firewood into beautiful things and beautiful things into firewood.

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