Feedrate sawing 15" wide hickory

[jovol]

I'm getting used to my '04 LT-40 that I recently purchased, and I had some questions about my experience milling a 15" wide hickory log. I cut the tree down and have had the logs in my yard for about 7 months. The cutting was quite slow! Is this to be expected? Even with the slow feed rate, the blade dove down once and started to smoke, so I had to inch the blade back out and start again (with a fresh blade just to make sure it wasn't that).

I have the 28HP Kohler gas, running brand new 10deg .045 x 1 1/4 woodmizer blades. Temps in my part of Western NC have been in the 50s during the day, 40s at night (supposed to be freezing tonight though).

[Magicman]

The general opinion is that you need to use a 4° blade instead of the 10°.  Either that or not saw it.   ;D

[SawyerTed]

+1 on the 4° blades for hickory, pecan, white oak, red oak.  I've been using 4° blades on everything but am switching to 7° Turbos.  

Feed rates should be fast enough to hear the engine strain a little without much change in blade speed.  You can saw too slowly as easily as sawing too fast.  Sawing too slowly generates a lot of heat in woods like hickory and white oak.  Heat will dull a blade quickly.

[Southside]

Agree with Turbos for Hickory, the fact the log was 7 months old didn't help the situation either.

[jovol]

What's the trade off with 4deg vs 7deg? Prices are hardly different. Does one last longer than the other?

What blade would you recommend for walnut? Logs have also been sitting for some months...

[Magicman]

There should be negligible difference between the 4° and 7° Turbo in price or sawing longevity.  The difference is simply the tooth angle and the depth of the gullet.

Personally I am using the 7° Turbo blades sawing everything.  I suggested the 4° blade in your instance because you stated that your sawmill had a 28 HP engine.  Maybe you could successfully use the 7° Turbo but I am not in any position to know since I have no sawing experience with your engine.

I personally failed to saw some seasoned Hickory with a 10° blade with my sawmill.

[WDH]

 

[SawyerTed]

Turbo 7 blades do fine with my 25 hp Kohler.  There is a noticeable difference between T7s and 4° blades.  T7s cut a bit faster and smoother with less sawdust in the kerf. 

[CCCLLC]

Hickory will definitely let you know if your drive belt is not up to specs. 14-15 lbs@ 7/16" deflection. If blade slows in its' SFPM, it will dive. Hickory is one of the toughest in NC.

[YellowHammer]

7's or 4's both will work, however 10's would not be suitable for dry hickory in my experience.

Watch your blade tension and if is starts to drop suddenly due to band heating, turn the lube on full blast and watch the steam come off. Then retension as soon as you get through the cut and the band cools off. I've sometimes done it during the cut when I knew I would ruin the band if I kept going without cooling and retensioning.  If the band gets too hot, it's done. 
That's very easy to burn bands in hickory. 

[woodworker9]

I just milled a hickory log 2 days ago, and it was 18" diameter.  My neighbor gave it to me, after letting it sit on horses for about 10 months.  My LT 40 has a 25 hp Kohler, and I only use 7° Turbo blades on it now.  My feed rate was just a little slower than what I use for ash and maple, but it handled the log just fine, and left a very respectable finish on the boards.  I changed blades to a brand new one just before cutting this log, as I had read horror stories here about sawing hickory.....especially a hickory log that had sat for a while down.  I was pleasantly surprised at how well it went.  This was my first hickory log.

[jovol]

I'm gonna get my hands on a belt tension gauge and check that next week, and put in an order for a box of 7deg blades to have on hand.

I'm glad to hear my experience isn't out of the ordinary with a 10deg blade on hickory!

[Magicman]

Remember that there is a difference between a 7° blade and a 7° Turbo blade.  

[WLC]

Remember that there is a difference between a 7° blade and a 7° Turbo blade.  

MM, Have you used both?  Reason I ask is that I already run nothing but the doublehard 7° bands at the recommendation of my WM dealer.  Wondering how the turbo's would cut vs the regular ones with my LT28.  Only have the 19hp motor on it though.  That's my biggest apprehension with trying them.  

[Magicman]

Yes, I have run both.  I could not see enough difference between the 10° and the 7° to make the switch but I did make the switch to the 7° Turbo.

[dgdrls]

Another help in general, unless you want live edge 
is to slip that log out of its bark if you don't have a mill mounted debarker.
Hickory is tough enough without the bark.

D

[pineywoods]

Yeah, dry hickory is hard and tough, but fresh cut is even worse. Full of sap that would make good glue. Sticks to everything, blade, rollers, belts, covers. Mixed with sawdust it is a real pain. No kind of lube will cut the stuff. I had  to scrape it off with a sharp knife.

[terrifictimbersllc]

I remember the first time I cut hickory.      I think I had about 150 hours on my mill.  Maybe thought it was more soft maple.  

Anyway nice and white, easy to cut, this is going to be fun.  I think I was using 10 degree double hards.  It was before turbo 7s or even 4 degree blades.   I did have 9 degree bands then but not sure I had them with me. 

         smiley_deadheader alligator

It was before I knew about the Forestry Forum either.   Much too learn, much sawdust over the dam since then.

[alanh]

I swear I saw sparks....and there wasn`t any metal

[pineywoods]

I swear I saw sparks....and there wasn`t any metal

Yep, not doubting you saw sparks where there was no metal. Each on of them sparks was a chip of metal off the blade teeth :(

[terrifictimbersllc]

Also possible to notice sparks in dim light for me that's near dusk this time of year. They will come from any grit the blade is in countering often entering the front of log.