New chainsaw binding during cutting

[Inaotherlife]

I have several small saws, 25 to 36cc, and use them a lot. But know better than to lean on these little saws. You got to let them work at their own pace. Great for cleanup and felling small trees, but slow for bucking big logs into firewood.

50, 60, or 70cc saws are where it's at for firewood production, felling larger trees, and stumping. And thanks to this site and others like it I now own two 50cc saws, one 54cc, one 60cc, a 64cc, 68cc, a 70cc, and maybe another or two I forgot about. And I don't even cut firewood except for incidentals from maintenance that get burned in the firepits. All but the old 54cc Poulan 3400 and new 50cc Echo 490 were bought used at somewhat bargain prices, and range in age from a couple of years to 58 years old.
Fixin to go cut down and buck up a 35' tall 10" dying mulberry right now with a hot little eight and a half pound 35.8cc saw.

50cc saws are a very attractive saw to me due to their light weight. But even these will bog if pushed too hard.

My 70cc saw, a 10 year old 372xp(bought used), doesn't give up much in the weight department against a 60cc and is a good step up in power. But normally, they cost a good deal more than a 50 or 60cc saw.
It's a really sweet, loud, powerful saw that I didn't pay too much for.
And since I tend to use the smaller 25-36cc saws most of the time, I could probably do without everything between the 36 and 70 if I needed to travel light. Although one or all of the 60, 64, and 68 might have a future powering bicycles.

[btulloh]

Training and experience are essential with any size saw but the bigger they are the more necessary that becomes. Based on what the OP has said, I wouldn't recommend anything over 50cc. Just my thoughts. A 50cc saw will saw the occasional larger log just fine. Managing longer bars and more power without the proper training and experience is asking for trouble. It's a lot harder to read the log as you saw faster. Safety with any size saw should be the top priority. Just my 0.02

[Inaotherlife]

Training and experience are essential with any size saw but the bigger they are the more necessary that becomes. Based on what the OP has said, I wouldn't recommend anything over 50cc. Just my thoughts. A 50cc saw will saw the occasional larger log just fine. Managing longer bars and more power without the proper training and experience is asking for trouble. It's a lot harder to read the log as you saw faster. Safety with any size saw should be the top priority. Just my 0.02

I kind of agree with this. Although I started cutting firewood as a young adult with a 54cc saw, and basically no experience or instruction.
Even a good 40cc saw is a pretty good step up in power and speed over a 30cc saw for cutting three cords a year. But a 50cc saw with a 16 or 18 inch bar isn't a ton heavier than a 40cc, and generally doesn't cost much more.  

[doc henderson]

much of running any equipment successfully and safely is anticipating, watching and listening to the machine.  I still recommend watching the Stihl videos free on the web site.  good luck.

[DavidC1234]

Yes thanks Doc for the tip, I spent last night watching the Stihl videos. Amazed what I didn't know. 

The chaps demo was eye opening!  I had no idea that's how they worked, with the fibers that jammed up the sprocket. 

[doc henderson]

David you made my day!  It really does go into detail about forces from the saw and what the wood/log/tree may do.  I hope that helps you develop techniques that help with your sawing.

[crowhill]

no trip to the dealer required to put your saw on a computer, just to tell you its going to cost the price of a saw to fix, like a lot of people have experienced.

Buying a chainsaw with a computerized system may not work for some but they can be converted. I have a good dealer that has taken care of my needs for several years. Here's my good deal! He had sold one of those computerized saws that the buyer couldn't keep running and the dealer couldn't fix it to stay running. So he took care of his customer by setting him up with another saw. Happy customer! I went into the shop some days later, told the dealer I was in need of another big saw. He told me about this computerized saw and how one of his techs had fixed it by swapping some parts around and it was no longer computerized. I got a good deal on it, got my 73.5cc big saw two years ago with a basic fuel system of a carb. I have no complaints. My other big saw is a jonsered 2186 with 85cc. Hard to tell which cuts faster! My point being with a good dealer and good techs they'll keep you going by setting you up with what you need.

[DavidC1234]

Hi everyone, just wanted to loop back to thank you all for the considered thoughts and advice. 

I've learned a lot these past couple months, here's how I tackled my issue:

- tuned up the carb, richened the mixture and now it runs much happier

- bought and used felling wedges on bigger pieces

- watch a *lot* of videos: manufacturers, BC, and fails

- swapped out the safety chain and learned to sharpen the chain properly

- bought a Timberwolf when Echo has their 15% off sale. Which I'm glad I did after learning to use the 31cc. Surprises me anyone can buy one of these over the counter with no requirement to know how to operate the machine safely!

So now I'm set with a smaller saw for limbing around the yard, and a workhorse for the family's firewood.  Most important I think I know what I'm doing now!

You all are tremendous, thanks for the advice!

[Old Greenhorn]

David, I am not sure where you are, there is no info in your profile, but in some areas you can take a class that is hands on for chainsaws, felling and safety. Around here in the northeast we have the Game of Logging and I would highly recommend these classes. More than a few folks here will attest to their value. Other areas and states have other programs. I can tell from your posts that you would certainly enjoy these if you can find them. One FF member I know is taking his first class this weekend, I will be doing level 3 in October.
Good Luck, be safe.

[Woodcutter_Mo]

I'm coming round to the conclusion I bought a decent machine but not for the task.

I cut about 3 Bush cords of firewood each spring for burning that winter, and just general cleanup around about an acre.

Obviously I wish I asked you all a couple weeks ago . but any recommendations for my needs?  I see the Husky 455 Rancher with an 18" bar, open box models on eBay for $399. I'm open to suggestions.

I have a Husky 455, it would definitely be better for larger wood. I would keep an eye on local dealers, they sometimes have specials on them for close to that eBay price. Last year my local dealer had them for $399. If you do decide on eBay, just make sure it comes with a full warranty.
 The echo cs-590 is in that price range as well and a few more CC's of displacement. Plus it's built more like a pro saw with a metal split case instead of the clamshell design on most intermediate range saws. From what I've heard and read, it would probably be well worth considering as well.

[John Mc]

I'm a Husqvarna fan, but between the Husqvarna 455 and the Echo CS 590, I'd take the 590 without hesitation. Same weight, more power, 5-year consumer warranty, and pro-type construction. The fact that the list price is less is just icing on the cake.

One thing that might cause me to reconsider is the quality of the dealers in my area. If you are not able to do your own troubleshooting and maintenance, having a dealer you can trust to do things right could end up being more important.

[ppine]

Always good advice here.  Your saw is probably under powered for what you are using it for.  That means that you cannot push it hard and expect good performance.  Slow down and make sure your chain is really sharp and pushing chips instead of large saw dust.
The centrifugal clutch is the other obvious thing to check out. Does it cut 15 inch logs okay?

[NorCalKuma]

Hi everyone, just wanted to loop back to thank you all for the considered thoughts and advice.

I've learned a lot these past couple months, here's how I tackled my issue:

- tuned up the carb, richened the mixture and now it runs much happier

- bought and used felling wedges on bigger pieces

- watch a *lot* of videos: manufacturers, BC, and fails

- swapped out the safety chain and learned to sharpen the chain properly

- bought a Timberwolf when Echo has their 15% off sale. Which I'm glad I did after learning to use the 31cc. Surprises me anyone can buy one of these over the counter with no requirement to know how to operate the machine safely!

So now I'm set with a smaller saw for limbing around the yard, and a workhorse for the family's firewood.  Most important I think I know what I'm doing now!

You all are tremendous, thanks for the advice!

Interested to know what you did to richen the fuel mixture. ie remove limiters, number of turns  I ordered a 34cc Echo, basically same as your 31cc, and plan on adjusting the carb also.  Have read only positive things when owners do that.

I ordered the 34cc as my second saw. Already own a larger one. Cut a couple cords of Oak a year for personal use. Probably 80% of the cuts do not require a larger saw.  You will use both saws. And maybe the smaller one more

[John Mc]

Madsen's has some good links on tuning your chainsaw, including one which includes an audio file for learning to tune by ear. It's not difficult to learn, but you will need better speakers than found in a smart phone or a typical laptop to really hear what is going on.

Try this link: Pro Saw Maintenance & Repair Menu

[NorCalKuma]

Thanks. I did a MM and tuned the 18" 46cc Craftsman and it responded well.  It does everything I need but weighs 15 lbs dry.  I tore my rotator cuff and am older now, so lighter is welcomed.  Should have paid more and bought a lighter Echo back then.   ;)

I am a bit nervous/cautious to mod the cs352 because it is new and warrantied.  The Craftsman was not and has served its purpose for several years so no heartache if something went wrong.

Anyway, apologies, not trying the hijack this thread. When the Echo arrives I will start a new thread.

[Old Greenhorn]

Madsen's has some good links on tuning your chainsaw, including one which includes an audio file for learning to tune by ear. It's not difficult to learn, but you will need better speakers than found in a smart phone or a typical laptop to really hear what is going on.

Try this link: Pro Saw Maintenance & Repair Menu

Hey John,, Thanks for this link, very helpful. I have little trouble working on my saws but my tuning abilities are always weak. My ears don't seem to hear what everyone ;D else does. I listened to these over and over, particularly the high speed adjustment and I think it is helping. I really should get a tach. Anyway, this helps a lot.

[lxskllr]

I don't trust my ear on a tune getting close, but I can hear when it's solidly rich. My technique has been using it while rich to get used to the sound, then slowly backing off the screw over several sessions. My biggest fear is running it lean and trashing it, so I try to be conservative, and move slow. Worst case is I get a bit more carbon, and use a bit more fuel. Beats seizing the machine.

[ppine]

this thread is a good example of why I like this forum.  Helping people is worthwhile and a lot better than making fun of their lack of experience.  Keep up the good work Gentlemen.