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Alaskan Sawmill Question

Started by Trees_rock, August 02, 2010, 10:14:40 PM

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Trees_rock

I have an older alaskan mill that is very good at cutting wedges.  The problem is that i was not trying to cut wedges I was trying to cut 3 inch thick slabs,  What I'm i doing wrong? 
I have used the mill several times before and only had this problem one time before and that time it was definitely operator error, I did not have the thing tight enough.  That was the first thing that i check this time, I even "taped" it with a hammer to try and get it as tight as i could. 
I was cutting with an 084, on a 24 inch x 12 foot ash log.

The first cut work just like it should, the mill stayed at 6", moved the mill to 3" and by the end of the 12', the mill was at 3 3/4" so re check the the set bolts and they seemed to still be tight.  They I try cut number 3 this time i was watching and we did not making 2' before it had move to almost 4". Tried two more times each time i retighten the bolt it just seemed to move faster.

I was starting the think about trying to drill a hole in the mast so the i could put a bolt in at 3" on both sides, but would like to not have to try this... 

What should I check? Any ideas? 

Thank you
Justin




terrifictimbersllc

Seems like 2 alternatives.   Either the clamp is not tight to begin with, or it is tight to begin with and the tightening handle is vibrating so that it unscrews and becomes loose.  Can you determine which?   I am guessing you aren't getting it tight to begin with. Maybe the bracket has a little bit of an angle and is not clamping down square on the bar. I would wiggle it up and down to make sure it is square.  It may be binding up, feeling tight,  but really isn't .    I would WD-40 the threads, bar and bracket where it clamps. You should be able to tighten it and be able to feel that it is really tight, and loosen it and feel it immediately loosen. 
DJ Hoover, Terrific Timbers LLC,  Mystic CT Woodmizer Million Board Foot Club member. 2019 LT70 Super Wide 55 Yanmar,  LogRite fetching arch, WM BMS250 sharpener/BMT250 setter.  2001 F350 7.3L PSD 6 spd manual ZF 4x4 Crew Cab Long Bed

Brucer

I used an Alaskan mill for 20+ years and never had this problem. That suggests it isn't a design issue, so you shouldn't have to put a bolt through the posts.

One thing to check out, though. On my mill the clamps were half-round castings with a V-notch to fit the mast. A U-bolt went around the casting and had a pair of jam-nuts on one side and a clamping nut on the other side. If the jam-nuts aren't adjusted properly, the U-bolt won't put uniform pressure on the casting.
Bruce    LT40HDG28 bandsaw
"Complex problems have simple, easy to understand wrong answers."

tyb525

Is your chain sharpened correctly? I.E. both left and right cutters are the same length? are you sure that your bar is perfectly parallel to the saw guide? Are your bar rails even in height? Are you using wedges in your cuts?
LT10G10, Stihl 038 Magnum, many woodworking tools. Currently a farm service applicator, trying to find time to saw!

Kevin

tyb525, the adjustment on the mill has moved while in use.

I would be looking at the U clamp as well.
I remember replacing them a couple of times on my alaskan.

QuoteIf the jam-nuts aren't adjusted properly, the U-bolt won't put uniform pressure on the casting.

jander3

I had quite a bit of problems with my alakan mill at one time.    I was using a chain that was not sharp and the saw was pulling in the cut.   When I took the saw out of the saw and tried to cut with just the saw it was clear that the saw was not cutting straight.  I sharpened the chain until I got a straight, true cut without the mill.  Re-installed the saw in the mill and it cut just fine with a sharp chain.


mtngun

If the Alaskan still has the OEM stainless hardware, it is important to apply anti-seize to the U-bolt threads, otherwise they gall quite easily.   

I've never, ever had a problem with the height setting moving during a cut.

A picture of your u-bolt/mill assembly would help.

Trees_rock

Thank you
I will try checking the set bolts and the chain.  I will get some pictures if i can
:)

LorenB

Quote from: tyb525 on August 03, 2010, 01:02:47 AM
Is your chain sharpened correctly? I.E. both left and right cutters are the same length? are you sure that your bar is perfectly parallel to the saw guide? Are your bar rails even in height? Are you using wedges in your cuts?

I am thinking along the same lines as Ty regarding the chain.  I had a chainsaw that wouldn't cut a straight line.  After I bought a new bar, I learned that the problem was with the chain the entire time.  It wasn't sharpened correctly. 

I would recommend that you take the chain to a shop and have it sharpened on a grinder, or maybe even try a brand new chain.  I'll bet you'll fix your problem. 

Good luck.
-- Loren
Loren
Baker 3667D portable sawmill, Cook's edger, Logrite arches & peaveys.  Husky 272XP chainsaw & two Echos.

captain_crunch

Chain or bar issue. If chain is ground 90 deg for ripping then check bar  Do you have correct gauge chain for bar or just a worn out bar
Brian
M-14 Belsaw circle mill,HD-11 Log Loader,TD-14 Crawler,TD-9 Crawler and Ford 2910 Loader Tractor

weisyboy

id almost put money on the chain being sharpened wrong. the bar can be buggered and so long as the chain is sharpened right it will cut straight.

teeth the same length, depth gauges the same, teeth sharpened to the same angle and both sides sharp.
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