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Strapping Kit

Started by alpmeadow, August 28, 2008, 10:23:33 AM

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alpmeadow

Golden Greetings
We have been milling cedar and now have off/side cuts of 12, 14 & 16 foot 1 and 2 inch material sorted from 4, 6, 8 to 10 inch wide.  Is it a good idea to purchase a metal strapping kit (1/2 inch metal bands) to select, sticker,  strap and store this material until  we can reuse or  sell this?
We will store off ground under lumber cover until we have storage built.  I prefer not to cut any to smaller size until we have a use or market for it.
Thanks for your input.
Cheers 
Tallis Creek Woodlot, LT40G28,KubotaMX5000

Tom Sawyer

That sounds like a good idea to me.  I use the poly banding from Baileys.  It's easier to use than steel and quite strong.

Tom

backwoods sawyer

As the wood dries and shrinks, the stacks become loose. If you have to move it much between now and the time you use, or sell it, they will tend to want to fall apart, and after picking up a couple of theses stacks that have not been banded you will appreciate having some sort of strapping whether metal or poly.
Backwoods Custom Milling Inc.
100% portable. . Oregons largest portable sawmill service, serving all of Oregon, from our Backwoods to yours..sawing since 1991

alpmeadow

Thanks for input.  I take it that a poly strapping kits are preferred as it won't rust and stain the wood like steel strapping, however as the wood drys and shrinks, it may have to be restrapped.  Our idea was to strap it now to minimize bowing, twisting, and cupping while this lumber was stored until reused or sold.

So the alternative, is to stack and sticker for loose storage to air dry and minimize stain and rot.  Later it can be selected, recut, etc  then strapped for shipping as necessary.  Its a challenge to keep it simple.  The markets for logs is limited or too low, plus high hauling costs means it is better to let the trees grow for now.

So far we have decked the logs(cedar, pine and fir) full length for storage and mill only custom orders(parttime only, just hit 200 hours on the WM mill after 3 years, still lots to learn).

Cheers
alpmeadow   
Tallis Creek Woodlot, LT40G28,KubotaMX5000

jpgreen

One of the neatest setups I've seen, and I don't remember if it was here or not, was I beams used as your stack base with a chain loop welded on each end.

A binder or come-a-long is thrown over the stickered stack and tightened down. You could run plastic or cardboard under the chain or cable to protect the wood.

Wish I had could find some I beam cheap..  ::)
-95 Wood-Mizer LT40HD 27 Hp Kawasaki water cooled engine-

james

try a 4x4 with eye bolts thru each end and a winch strap over the bundle then just keep tightening it as the lumber dries
james

Tom Sawyer

The poly strapping would be easy to tighten up if you left a long tail at the end.  Maybe steel would be too.  One thing about poly is that it doesn't spring back when you cut it like steel under tension will do.  Also a lot harder to cut yourself on an edge with the poly.

Tom

Warren

I have used steel strapping, Bailey's woven strapping and finally settled on Cord Strap poly strapping.  The Cordstrap works the same as the Bailey's woven strap with metal buckles, but less cost per foot of material, and not as "stretchy."  For me, as a one man opertaion, the poly banding is faster and much easier to handle. 

If you do use the poly, go ahead and buy one of the "all in one" tensioner tools. (as opposed to just using the metal bar manual tensioner)  With the fancy tensioner, if you leave a long tail on the cut off when you first stack and sticker, you should be able to re-tighten later after drying shrinkage.

-w-

LT40SHD42, Case 1845C,  Baker Edger ...  And still not near enough time in the day ...

Bibbyman

We sawed out a lot of oak lumber for one customer that wanted to stick and stack it for drying.  He asked my about where he could find banding strap and equipment like we have to strap it like we do.  After I told him how much the tools, dispensers, clips and banding cost,  he concluded it was way more than he needed. 

I did make a suggestion that he stop by the Harbor Freight store on his way home and pick up a couple of bulk packs of 1" load binders.  It wouldn't blow his budget and he could retighten the straps as necessary and re-use them. He thought that was an excellent idea. 
Wood-Mizer LT40HDE25 Super 25hp 3ph with Command Control and Accuset.
Sawing since '94

kderby

I'll chime in with my satisfaction with Poly Strapping.  I get mine from Uline.  The buckles do allow you to retighten but I use more of the clamps.  The metal seems to pile up in a rusty mess but it can be recycled.  The poly can be recycled or it burns up nicely in a slash pile. 

The set-up cost for decent tools and strapping material is expensive.  Consider the misery of re-stacking lumber.  Also consider the professional look of banded material in an organized yard.  Once boards are are dry, graded and banded it sure is nice to place strapping and a label....done and done well!

Banding is just another cost of doing business....good business. 

KD


red

I just heard of a Web Strapping Kit  from

www.kubinecstrapping.com   and Baileys Sells it 

just wondering if anyone has tried it yet

RED
Honor the Fallen Thank the Living

Brucer

Quote from: red on August 01, 2009, 10:43:27 AM
I just heard of a Web Strapping Kit  from
www.kubinecstrapping.com   and Baileys Sells it 
just wondering if anyone has tried it yet

RED

Yep. I was sold after the first bundle I made.

For the last several years my client would collect the slabs and edgings in half-cord bundles and strap them with half-inch metal strapping. He'd flog these off as cheap firewood.

Now that I'm buying logs myself, I have to deal with waste. I decided to try the Bailey's kit rather than invest in an expensive and heavy steel strapping system. I figured for a $100 it was worth a try. Here's my observations:

1) The manual tightener was intended for square packages rather than round bundles. However, I've been able to get it to work for me on my slab bundles.

2) The 250' rolls of banding are light enough to carry (Bailey's includes a bag) so you can tighten up a load and then cut the strapping. With metal I pretty much had to precut all my straps in the shop, then take them to the site.

3) If you cut the strapping just past the bottom of the manual tool, you'll have enough slack to retighten the load. No extra buckle required -- just pull the strap tighter. With metal you have to have enough overlap to get your tensioning tool in place, re-tighten the load, and add another clip.

4) The Bailey's kit literally gives you everything you need. Just carry the bag to the job site and go to it :).

Am I going to stick with the system? For sure. I expect I'll buy the buckles by the 1000 as there's a significant saving. But I'm going to keep buying the 250' rolls of banding -- the 2 x 1650' rolls only save you half a cent per foot and are a heck of a lot heavier.
Bruce    LT40HDG28 bandsaw
"Complex problems have simple, easy to understand wrong answers."

CLL

the good thing about the web strapping you can tighten it over and over. I have found you can also take the straps loose and reuse it.
Too much work-not enough pay.

Meadows Miller

Gday

Ive allways used 1/2 steel strapping and wouldnt use anything else but steel  ;) ;D 8) 8) Ive used all sorts of strapping systyms over the years with varing succsess  :o :) ::) fairenough it costs more at the start but it works and works well in any situation i have come across  ;) ;D 8) the web and clip systyms have their place with smaller producers and people who use them once in a blue moon and at $100 for a kit they seem pretty good value  ;)

Reguards Chris
4TH Generation Timbergetter

PineNut

I have been using the strapping and buckles and I like it. I do not have any heavy-duty requirements so I have been using 1/2 inch strapping and buckles. For any heavy-duty use, you would need a heavier strap. By leafing a long tail on it, you can retighten and reuse the straps and buckles. Every time you cut one off, you will lose about 2 inches of the strap.  Bought mine from Uline and it cost me about $160 delivered for 1000 buckles, tensioner and 3900 ft of strap.

WildDog

I use 3/4 inch steel strap, if it is green timber I intend using for myself I often strap with ratchet tie downs then with the steel strapping as it seasons, if I am feeling lazy (happening more of often these days) I have hardwood wedges that I hammer under the strapping to take up the tension on stuff I am going to use my self.
If you start feeling "Blue" ...breath    JD 5510 86hp 4WD loader Lucas 827, Pair of Husky's 372xp, 261 & Stihl 029

Brucer

I've been using my poly strapping kit from Baileys for a couple of weeks now, and it is definitely better than the 1/2" steel strapping I used to use. I can tension the straps up way past the point where the steel would break.

I'm using it make slab bundles for firewood and two of my customers like to pop the bundles apart right in the yard and hand-load their trailers. I got them to cut the straps right beside the buckles. Then I salvaged the buckles and straps and re-used them. What I did was use a second buckle and put a very short piece of new strap to bridge the gap. Then when a customer wants to break the bundle open in the yard, I get him/her to cut the piece between the buckles.

Even though the buckles bend closed when the straps are tightened, they spring open again when the strap is cut. I've been telling people I will reuse the straps if they return them along with the buckles. I offer to knock a buck off their next bundle for every pair of straps & buckles they return. No one takes the discount, but about 3/4 of the straps have come back so far ;D.

This is turning out way cheaper than the steel strapping system.
Bruce    LT40HDG28 bandsaw
"Complex problems have simple, easy to understand wrong answers."

Tripp

Picked up a a strapping cart with a roll of plastic banding, pneumatic seamless bander, 300 metal clips w/crimper and tightener. Paid $140.00. Feel like I stole it.



Tripp

Magicman

You did good !!!  Mine is a cheap set from Harbor Freight.  The box is above the "resharp box" that I am closing.  It won't do what your's will.



Knothole Sawmill, LLC     '98 Wood-Mizer LT40SuperHydraulic   WM Million BF Club Member   WM Pro Sawyer Network

It's Weird being the Same Age as Old People

Never allow your "need" to make money to exceed your "desire" to provide quality service.....The Magicman

Banjo picker

I'll throw my hat in with the Wild dog from down under...I use 3/4 steel....I bought into the system years a go and have more clips than I will ever use in my life time...but I'll try....I put one strap in the middle of a bundle of crossties, and have seen the loader operator that was taking them off the truck just barely get on that last tie...(25 in a bundle)...I'll stick with the 3/4 steel for what I do... 8)  Tim
Never explain, your friends don't need it, and your enemies won't believe you any way.

Meadows Miller

Gday

Duhhh 3/4 checked it the other day   :D :D :D  got the 1/2 inch stuff  in the shed  ;) i supose thats what happens when go to the supplyer and throw a few rolls in the ute and say the same as usual for years  ;) :D :D

regards Chris
4TH Generation Timbergetter

Quinn

I use the woven webbing from Kubinec, and I like it.  You can tension it pretty tight, but it has some stretch to it - which can be an advantage.  They have some good videos on their website.  I bought the starter kit and have been happy with it.  Plus, no rust or other reaction issues as with steel strapping.

- Marty
Logmaster LM4 - 51 hp CAT, 2" blade, fully hydraulic, computer setworks, cutting length of 26'.

nas

My brother sells automated strapping machines, and he tells me the plastic strapping is stronger and safer than steel.  It's all they use and a lot of their machines are used in the steel and lumber industries.
Better to sit in silence and have everyone think me a fool, than to open my mouth and remove all doubt - Napoleon.

Indecision is the key to flexibility.
2002 WM LT40HDG25
stihl 066
Husky 365
1 wife
6 Kids

backwoods sawyer

Quote from: nas on August 16, 2009, 02:32:45 PM
My brother sells automated strapping machines, and he tells me the plastic strapping is stronger and safer than steel.  It's all they use and a lot of their machines are used in the steel and lumber industries.
You bring up a good point about safety. I have run my share of the metal banding thru a chopper just to make it easier to dispose of. I have seen some nasty wounds from the metal banding. Metal banding is hard on tires to.
Whether you are using metal or fiber banding it still comes down to how well the fastener holds and there are several types of fasteners out there as well.
Backwoods Custom Milling Inc.
100% portable. . Oregons largest portable sawmill service, serving all of Oregon, from our Backwoods to yours..sawing since 1991

nas

Quote from: nas on August 16, 2009, 02:32:45 PM
My brother sells automated strapping machines, and he tells me the plastic strapping is stronger and safer than steel.  It's all they use and a lot of their machines are used in the steel and lumber industries.
I was wrong.  They still use steel for steel, but plastic for lumber products.  So if anyone has $100k or so to spend on a strapping machine......  ;D http://itipacksystems.com/en/index.html 
Better to sit in silence and have everyone think me a fool, than to open my mouth and remove all doubt - Napoleon.

Indecision is the key to flexibility.
2002 WM LT40HDG25
stihl 066
Husky 365
1 wife
6 Kids

amberwood

I have always used the 3/4" black plastic strap..it does not have the strength of steel, but also costs alot less. Worst case I use 3 or 4 bands rather than 2 on a pack. It only costs 10% the price of steel. As mentioned it is also alot safer in case of failure, and has less tendancy to damage timber when crimped up. It will stretch a little.

DTR
MS460 Magnum
MS250
DAF CF85-430
ASV RC-85 track loader

DGK

Quote from: Brucer on August 01, 2009, 04:47:10 PM
Quote from: red on August 01, 2009, 10:43:27 AM
I just heard of a Web Strapping Kit  from
www.kubinecstrapping.com   and Baileys Sells it 
just wondering if anyone has tried it yet

RED

Yep. I was sold after the first bundle I made.

For the last several years my client would collect the slabs and edgings in half-cord bundles and strap them with half-inch metal strapping. He'd flog these off as cheap firewood.

Now that I'm buying logs myself, I have to deal with waste. I decided to try the Bailey's kit rather than invest in an expensive and heavy steel strapping system. I figured for a $100 it was worth a try. Here's my observations:

1) The manual tightener was intended for square packages rather than round bundles. However, I've been able to get it to work for me on my slab bundles.

2) The 250' rolls of banding are light enough to carry (Bailey's includes a bag) so you can tighten up a load and then cut the strapping. With metal I pretty much had to precut all my straps in the shop, then take them to the site.

3) If you cut the strapping just past the bottom of the manual tool, you'll have enough slack to retighten the load. No extra buckle required -- just pull the strap tighter. With metal you have to have enough overlap to get your tensioning tool in place, re-tighten the load, and add another clip.

4) The Bailey's kit literally gives you everything you need. Just carry the bag to the job site and go to it :).

Am I going to stick with the system? For sure. I expect I'll buy the buckles by the 1000 as there's a significant saving. But I'm going to keep buying the 250' rolls of banding -- the 2 x 1650' rolls only save you half a cent per foot and are a heck of a lot heavier.


Hello Brucer,

I am looking at ordering the same kit for my slabs plus some skids of lumber. With reference to your comment about the manual tensioning tool, are you happy with the manual, or now that you have some experience with the kit would you consider one of the ratcheting tensioners?

Thanks,
Doug
Yukon, Canada

LT40G38 modified to dual pumped hydraulic plus, HR120 Resaw, EG200 Edger, Bobcat S185,Bobcat S590, Logosol PH260M3, Sthil MS660's, MS460,MS362's MS260, Trailtech dump trailer, F350, F700 Tilt-Deck log/Lumber Hauler, JD440B Skidder, Naarva S23C Processor

Brucer

The manual tool isn't ideal on round packages like slab bundles. It was intended for square packages where the band makes a sharp bend. However, I'm getting better at positioning it -- each time I use it things go a little faster.

If my main use was square packages (e.g., lifts of lumber), I'd stick with the manual tool.  If I were making several slab bundles a day, I would probably go for one of the ratcheting tools. For now, at about one bundle every 2 days, I'll stick with the manual method.

I've told people that I'll recycle the bands and buckles if they return them to me, and every single one has come back! At this rate I won't need to buy any more banding or buckles until next year ;D.
Bruce    LT40HDG28 bandsaw
"Complex problems have simple, easy to understand wrong answers."

DGK

Thanks for the information Brucer. I think that I'll order the kit from Bailey's to give it a try.
Doug
Yukon, Canada

LT40G38 modified to dual pumped hydraulic plus, HR120 Resaw, EG200 Edger, Bobcat S185,Bobcat S590, Logosol PH260M3, Sthil MS660's, MS460,MS362's MS260, Trailtech dump trailer, F350, F700 Tilt-Deck log/Lumber Hauler, JD440B Skidder, Naarva S23C Processor

4x4American

So Brucer, how have you liked your Kubinec setup?  Are you still using it?




I am looking at this:
http://www.baileysonline.com/Forestry-Woodcutting/Portable-Sawmills/Lumber-Banding-Strapping/Kubinec-3-4-Poly-Strapping-Kit.axd


I have a customer who wants me to band his lumber, and I want to do it without breaking the bank.  Also plan to use it for strapping bundles of slabwood for firewood.
Boy, back in my day..

Brucer

Yes! I've gone through several thousand feet of strapping (not including re-used material).  So far I've only had two straps break while handling bundles. I've managed to put the chainsaw through a couple of straps when bucking up bundles -- sure beats steel strapping in that regard :).

Three years ago I bought a proper ratchet tool so we could get the slab bundles tighter. This made it much easier to roll the bundles out of the racks. I discovered the hard way that I should have bought the special ratchet tool for round bundles. It wasn't in stock at the dealer so I bought the regular one. We had to learn a few tricks for getting the bundles as tight as we wanted.

I'd still recommend the kit with the manual tool as a starter set. That way you aren't out of pocket too much if you find it doesn't work for you.
Bruce    LT40HDG28 bandsaw
"Complex problems have simple, easy to understand wrong answers."

Peter Drouin

Go to U Line for your stuff 4x4
A&P saw Mill LLC.
45' of Wood Mizer, cutting since 1987.
License NH softwood grader.

4x4American

I'll have to check them out.
Boy, back in my day..

Brad_bb

I've been using the Kubinec system for a year and a half now.  I like it a lot.  Low investment and a strong strap.  It takes some time at first to use them.  Once you get the hang of it, you get faster.  It's an easily portable system too.  The manual tool has been just fine for me.  If you were strapping 5 days a week, then it would be time to up grade to a full cart with steel or plastic banding. But if you're only strapping occasionally like me, this system is good in every way.
Anything someone can design, I can sure figure out how to fix!
If I say it\\\\\\\'s going to take so long, multiply that by at least 3!

YellowHammer

When using the Kubinec or generic buckle system, can they be released on a tight pack of lumber without cutting the straps?
YellowHammerisms:

Take steps to save steps.

If it won't roll, its not a log; it's still a tree.  Sawmills cut logs, not trees.

Kiln drying wood: When the cookies are burned, they're burned, and you can't fix them.

Sawing is fun for the first couple million boards.

Be smarter than the sawdust

terrifictimbersllc

If you want to go to the trouble you can get the buckles loose either by prying on them and working the strap or by pulling the bundle tighter with something else, once the strap is a bit loose you can get the buckle off.   But one can also  cut the strap at the buckle and have a strap that's shorter than the first. On one side of the buckle one needs about a foot extra strap to use the tool. On the other side only a couple inches will do it so that is what would be lost if you want to have a strategy of reusing strap and buckles if you're not shipping the bundle off somewhere else.
DJ Hoover, Terrific Timbers LLC,  Mystic CT Woodmizer Million Board Foot Club member. 2019 LT70 Super Wide 55 Yanmar,  LogRite fetching arch, WM BMS250 sharpener/BMT250 setter.  2001 F350 7.3L PSD 6 spd manual ZF 4x4 Crew Cab Long Bed

Brucer

Just about impossible to remove a buckle when the strap is tight. For my slab bundles I told people to cut the strap as close to the buckle as possible. When I reused a strap, I'd use a second buckle and a short piece of strapping. I told people to cut the strap between the buckles.
Bruce    LT40HDG28 bandsaw
"Complex problems have simple, easy to understand wrong answers."

barbender

I've been happy with the Kubinec strapping, although the 3/4" seems like overkill for most stuff to me. I got the starter kit with the manual tool first, I later got a ratchet tensioner. Maybe I'm not using the ratchet correctly, but I can get stuff tighter with the manual tool.
I found it quite a bit cheaper at Strapping Supply, I think was the name of the outfit.
Too many irons in the fire

Brucer

While the 3/4" strap is way stronger than I need to bundle slabs, I still prefer it. It stands up to serious abuse -- like poking it with a loader fork, or having a bundle slide off the forks sideways and hit the ground at an angle.

In some cases the manual tool will get things tighter because of the angle at which it pulls the strap. The tensioners (manual or ratchet) grip or pinch the strap that's going around your package. Then they wrap onto the tail end of the strap that's coming back at them from the buckle, and that's what get's pulled.

Problems arise when the top piece of strap is rubbing on the lower piece anywhere between the tensioner and the buckle. There will be so much friction that the two pieces press against each other and the strap no longer slides through the buckle. When this happens you can see the bottom piece of strap start to bunch up as it gets dragged back toward the tensioner. This usually doesn't happen with the manual tensioner because it pulls the upper strap at a much steeper angle. It doesn't happen with either tensioner if the surface you're strapping is flat.

If the strap won't move through the buckle easily, I slip a piece of smooth metal between the two pieces of strapping. This lifts them away from each other and the strap will still slide over the metal. I keep a chainsaw wrench in my strapping bag for this purpose, but an outrigger leveling bar from a Wood-Mizer also works well.
Bruce    LT40HDG28 bandsaw
"Complex problems have simple, easy to understand wrong answers."

Ohio_Bill


[b]If the strap won't move through the buckle easily, I slip a piece of smooth metal between the two pieces of strapping. This lifts them away from each other and the strap will still slide over the metal. I keep a chainsaw wrench in my strapping bag for this purpose, but an outrigger leveling bar from a Wood-Mizer also works well.[/b]

[/quote]

Thanks Brucer for sharing your fix.  I will try that tomorrow
Bill
USAF Veteran  C141 Loadmaster
LT 40 HDD42-RA   , Allis Chalmers I 500 Forklift , Allis Chalmers 840 Loader , International 4300 , Zetor 6245 Tractor – Loader ,Bob Cat 763 , Riehl Steel Edger

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