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Bar Life?

Started by bendjoseph, August 13, 2011, 03:39:43 PM

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Al_Smith


I couldn't tell the difference between a rollamatic or a Rolex  :D .

What I'm trying to say is I don't pay attention to the trade names they hand on things .

montreal

rolamatic dosnt mean much to me either, i was more trying to figure how big u can rebore a oil hole before it becomes to big,

Al_Smith

I don't know ,never really measured ,1/8" maybe .I've got some oldies that have 1/4" holes in them but that was when they made saws that put oodles of oil on the bar before somebody got the bright idea that wasn't the thing to do .

montreal

now thats real interesting Al,i spose in a lot of easy cutting timber it dosnt really matter either way,im not sure about your area but im fairly sure the timber in germany where im guessing they desighn & test some of these small holed stihl bars is nothing like some of the stuff we stick them into in Aust.There is a fair bit of timber over here that once cured is beyond the scope of a normal B&Chain to deal with, i only found out the other day u can get tungsten?? tipped chains or something along those lines,have u had any experience with them?im thinking either way its got to help a lot  if youve got  a big mob of oil  doing its thing!?.Do u think rev speed would play much of a part here too??

Al_Smith

Oh I doubt seriously if the wood in Germany is much different than the wood in Ohio .

The reason more modern chainsaws don't have the oil output of older saws is more related to ecolgical issues imposed by The EPA and other organizations .

Now usually most Stihls will supply an ample amount of oil for the rated bar length a certain model of saw is designed to handle .However once you reach the longer limits of those bars they lack a little in the oil department .

Now I don't subscibe to the theory that an over oiling saw presents an ecologocal issue but some with a lot more influence with govermental bodies than I do .So all I can do is complain about it as if that does a lot of good .

Al_Smith

Now on that carbide chain a little tip .That stuff is designed for rescue saws .Firefighters use that stuff to cut through shingle or sheet metal roofs .The cost is prohibitive you use for normal wood cutting and more so it's not all that fast either .On wood if the chain gets dull you just refile it which seems for some reason a subject that seems hard to grasp for some .

What I ought to do is start having monthly one day seminars at the Al Smith school of chainsawoligy on the subject of chain maintainence .Enrollment fee will be 100 dollars and a case of Budweiser,supply you own files . 8)

montreal

sounds like the carbide isnt really set up for wood at all from your description,iwas just curious cause ive got a set of cattle yards to make out of some very steeldust impregnated redgum railway sleepers{ties?]& it dosnt matter how sharp youve got your chain your lucky to go five min before sharpen uptime comes around again.your prob thinking why bother with the dirty sons of guns,but i can get them for the right money & once youve got them in place theyre as good or better than anything else available & not far off steel railway line for lasting ability,[similar to cut too though!!] Even on timber i consider pretty easy going i NEVER go more than 1 tankfull without getting the file out,after 24 years experience working on cattle stations& using a saw here & there along the way i definitely dont consider myself a pro & as youve read ive got alot more that im keen to learn but when we get to the sharpening section of your new chainsawology school I want to have a sharpout with u,every time i get as sharp or sharper than u,u handover one of those Bud cartons!   

Al_Smith

 :D You can have all the cartons you want. I'll keep the beer .

Seriously  that carbide chain costs like 3-400 bucks a loop .Then a fortune to get it reground or retoothed if it tosses an insert .Cutting ties is not a problem, cutting ballast rock is .

On this subject of "anti kickback bar " the only ones I ever saw that claimed that was of Oregon design maybe 25 years ago .Odd looking gizmo it was .Rounded bottom tip that transitioned straight on the upper side .You could only install it it one direction ,could not be flipped .Absoultely could not use it for a bore cut and a lousy up hand cutter .Then also were the Homelite bars used on small displacement consumer saws .Had a guard over the end .Could not be bored with at all ,no open tip .Both of these designs are long since gone as far as I know .

Yoopersaw

I always set mine to have a dab of oil left when I run out of gas.  It's cheap insurance.

Al_Smith

You're better off to shut the thing off before you run out of gas .

tyb525

they do run lean when they run out of gas, so every time you run out of gas, you're running lean, and that's hard on a saw.
LT10G10, Stihl 038 Magnum, many woodworking tools. Currently a farm service applicator, trying to find time to saw!

lumberjack48

I used Rock Drill oil back in the 60's, it was like honey the best bar oil i ever used, i'll bet it would work for ripping, thought I'd throw that at you rippers.

I had a 038 Mag II for a bucking up saw, it ran out of gas 8 to 12 times a working day never hurt it. I had that saw for 8 years, sold it for 200 after i got hurt.

The old 028's, 034's, 038's and 044's were a tough line, and i was a Jon'ie and Husky man, there good saw but had more issues then the Stihl.
Third generation logger, owner operator, 30 yrs felling experience with pole skidder. I got my neck broke back in 89, left me a quad. The wife kept the job going up to 96.

Al_Smith

I usually shut them down about the first hiccup .Buckings one thing but I learned a long time ago to never start a felling cut without a full tank .Nothing like having  the dang saw die when you have about 2 inchs of hinge left and big wind blows up all the sudden .Run rabbit run . :D

Yoopersaw

Thanks for the tips on running out of gas.

montreal

Lumberjack that rock drill oil sounds pretty handy,ill mention that to some mates in the mining game,they might be able to get me a sample,it might help in some of this tough stuff im wanting to work on.i was pretty interested in getting a 038 mag,i thought they might of suited some of the work i do with theyre slower revs??but ended up going with a 440mag which still is on its wayfrom the u.s.Does anyone have anopinion whether a slower revving saw is going to blunt-heat a chain much less in real hard {dirty]wood compared to a faster revving saw??i havnt really compared differences yet but have a hunch it may??

Al_Smith

Don't get fooled by an 038 mag supposedly being a slow reving saw .Some may say that but they've obviously never seen one in good tune . 8)

Besides that if the chain is sharp and it's getting plenty of oil that 1500 rpm difference won't make any difference on the chain .I might add with a little work an 038 Mag will out rev an 044 but that's another subject all together . ;)

montreal

thats good to know u dont reckon1500 revs is going to make any dif to b&c life,would it be likely to make any dif to engine life during extended periods of ripping,was that u Al that posted somewhere on this forum what a good longlasting  saw the 038 mag was-is?,how do u rate the ms 440 alongside the 038mag?? as an allround using saw?             

Al_Smith

Well yes they are both good saws for that matter .I prefer the 038 mag given the choice but that's just a personal preference .

montreal

well thanks for the tips Al & Lumberjack,i hope Bendjoseph got as much info as i did,cheers Mon

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