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Slick sharpening jig, for sharpening slicks.

Started by Dave Shepard, February 23, 2010, 04:47:16 PM

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Dave Shepard

I've been encountering plenty of dirt (and nails  :-\ ) on my current project, so I needed a better way to touch up my slick. It was pretty simple to build, I used a 12" piece of 1x4 and a chunk of 3x4 about 30 inches long. The inspiration was a board that Jack Sobon showed us during a workshop I took in '06. He made a board with a notch that would clamp in a vise on the front of a workbench. I don't have a clamp, so I screwed my board to a short block of dunnage. If you look closely, just under the tip of the slick, you can see where I marked the 25° angle under the sharpening stone. I've since marked the location for the polishing stone, which is much thicker. It worked really well, and was easy to make. I hope this helps other people, free handing a slick is tricky.

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Jim_Rogers

Whatever you do, have fun doing it!
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Dan_Shade

wouldn't that make a curved honed surface?

I guess if it works, it works :D
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Dave Shepard

You are only moving the slick back and forth an inch or two. Yes, technically it will make a convex surface, that really doesn't matter. If you are free handing it, you are probably going to be making a convex surface anyway. The important part is that you will be making a consistently shaped edge. It took some time to make a uniform edge in the jig, but now, it will be much faster to give it a quick even honing and polishing.

I haven't tried a micro bevel on a slick, but you could certainly mark off another location closer to the upright. I might even try the jig on my chisels, as it is very smooth to use and takes no setup time. I am using a Veritas MKII now, but you have to get it in the guide just right.

edit: I just had a thought about using it for chisels. The upright might be too tall for chisels, if it is, I'll make another, shorter, upright and screw it to the other end. Jack's was adjustable by moving it up and down in the vise. Mine is adjusted by moving the stones back and forth. The loose nature of the jig also allows you to put pressure on the corners so you can make a nice rounded cutting edge.
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Rooster

Hey there,

What if you take a piece of PVC Pipe and slip over the end of your chisel handle to make it longer, so that it fits your jig?

Aren't "mouse-traps" fun?!!

Rooster
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       and new barns are a reminder that I am not so young."
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Dave Shepard

Thanks for the suggestion. I think it will probably work just as it is, adding the other piece was just an afterthought.

I'd be interested to know what everyone else is using for their chisels and slicks.
Wood-Mizer LT40HDD51-WR Wireless, Kubota L48, Honda Rincon 650, TJ208 G-S, and a 60"LogRite!

Rooster

I use rusty nails embedded in barn beams.


Wait....is that right? 

What was the question?


I'm confused. :-\



"We talk about creating millions of "shovel ready" jobs, for a society that doesn't really encourage anybody to pick up a shovel." 
Mike Rowe

"Old barns are a reminder of when I was young,
       and new barns are a reminder that I am not so young."
                          Rooster

Dave Shepard

I'll restate that question. :D I was wondering what everyone else is using to sharpen their chisels and slicks. ;D
Wood-Mizer LT40HDD51-WR Wireless, Kubota L48, Honda Rincon 650, TJ208 G-S, and a 60"LogRite!

jdtuttle

Have a great day

kfhines

Dave,
I use Jack's system with a board in a Bench vise. With the knob of the Slick riding in the crotch of the board it is very easy to adjust the angle. If you turn the stone the long way you can get a longer swing.
Chisels I sharpen by hand.

kfhines

GaryinMississippi

If you made a carriage to fit over the 3 by 4 and mounted the sharpening stone on the carriage, you could slide the stone back and forth and keep the slick at the same angle.  This would eliminate the convex problem.

swampfox

chisels: diamond stone for 1st cut and then a waterstone to finish

with the slick I saw someone sharpening theirs with a slipstone.  So I gave it a try. I filed my slick for a curved edge, so the slipstone works well for that.  With the mass of a slick it is easier for me to use a small slipstone.  Sorda like taking the tool to the timber.

frwinks

Veritas MKII for chisels, freehand on corner chisel and a modified HomeDepot sharpening guide for the slick and smoothing plane iron.  "Razor sharp" technique for all.
It's my rough rendition of the camber roller for the MKII  ;D   which allows me to hone a nice consistent curve




Dave Shepard

I tried the kfhines technique today. (side to side) Worked very well. 8)
Wood-Mizer LT40HDD51-WR Wireless, Kubota L48, Honda Rincon 650, TJ208 G-S, and a 60"LogRite!

Dave Shepard

Bump for a friend.

Still using this jig for chisels and slicks. I'm going to build a sharpening bench at some point and I'm going to make an adjustable support so it will accommodate a wider variety of chisels. I've also been thinking of making a clamp that will hold an axe at the right angle.
Wood-Mizer LT40HDD51-WR Wireless, Kubota L48, Honda Rincon 650, TJ208 G-S, and a 60"LogRite!

Belg

Dave Shepard, joined the forum to follow up and get any more info on the adjustable support jig. How it was coming and if you could show some pics? Thanks Pat
Quote from: Dave Shepard on February 12, 2012, 04:02:09 PM
Bump for a friend.

Still using this jig for chisels and slicks. I'm going to build a sharpening bench at some point and I'm going to make an adjustable support so it will accommodate a wider variety of chisels. I've also been thinking of making a clamp that will hold an axe at the right angle.

Belg

Jim, do you free hand it on the Tormek? Looking for a way to work with a badly "back beveled" slick. Is the solution grind away all the beveled material and then put a new edge to it? What is a good first grind angle to see how the tool will perform? Thanks Pat
Quote from: jdtuttle on February 24, 2010, 05:52:10 AM
Tormek sharpening system.
jim

VictorH

Belg - yes you want to get rid of any back bevel.  Otherwise you won't be able to lay your slick or chisel flat on your wood and remove the high spot.

Victor

Dave Shepard

I haven't built a sharpening bench,  I just clamp my jig to a timber or bench.

Wood-Mizer LT40HDD51-WR Wireless, Kubota L48, Honda Rincon 650, TJ208 G-S, and a 60"LogRite!

Belg

Guys after a LOT of tedious and nerve racking work I have gotten my slick reground beyond the back bevel someone put on it. It still needs honing and polishing but at least got an edge on it thats flat in the back and hollow ground on the front. I have added 4 pics to my Gallery if you care to look.
https://forestryforum.com/gallery/index.php?cat=46521

Andries

Good photos Belg.
It can take a crazy amount of work to get chisels sharpened the way you want them to be.
No wonder many of us treat them like they're the Crown Jewels.  ;D

btw: posting photos ain't that difficult.  ;)
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