SAWMILL COMPARISON, WOODLAND VS. TIMBERY

ChugiakTinkerer · May 31, 2017, 02:14:31 PM

Congratulations!

plowboyswr · May 31, 2017, 06:31:45 PM

Quote from: Jmiller160 on May 31, 2017, 01:44:39 PM
I really want to put it on a trailor, if you don't mind me asking , about how much did it cost?

That all depends on how much scrounging you're willing to do. This followed me home this past weekend. $100 couldn't go wrong.

Jmiller160 · May 31, 2017, 09:55:37 PM

No doubt, but I've never had any luck finding good deals like that

plowboyswr · June 02, 2017, 10:25:28 AM

I had to do a lot of searching on lots of different sites before I found it. Kbeitz would also tell ya to look at boat trailers. Which I was doing also. The one I got happened to be an old double framed truck frame with the truck springs still on it, way too much springs for the regular 6000 lbs rated axel under it. But it has 18' of deck as it sits right now. It's going to take quite a bit of work to get to where I want but it's a start.

fishfighter · June 02, 2017, 12:57:20 PM

Quote from: Jmiller160 on May 31, 2017, 01:44:39 PM
I really want to put it on a trailor, if you don't mind me asking , about how much did it cost?

Think I have about $150 in it, That was for two new tires and a few pieces of metal. Had most of the metal on hand. If I would of bought everything(metal) total cost would of been around $500.

ChugiakTinkerer · June 02, 2017, 02:53:39 PM

FF, do I recall correctly that yours is from an old travel trailer? That's another way to get an axle and frame, as long as you have the time and inclination to strip off everything else. Relic trailers can often be had for not much more than the cost to haul them off.

Jmiller160 · June 08, 2017, 10:47:33 AM

I have an old trailor with a good axle and about 60% good metal, I'm hoping to get it worked out that way.

fishfighter · June 08, 2017, 05:46:15 PM

Quote from: ChugiakTinkerer on June 02, 2017, 02:53:39 PM
FF, do I recall correctly that yours is from an old travel trailer? That's another way to get an axle and frame, as long as you have the time and inclination to strip off everything else. Relic trailers can often be had for not much more than the cost to haul them off.

No, mine is all welded up. The travel trailer is a log trailer. ;D

fishfighter · June 08, 2017, 05:54:28 PM

Quote from: Jmiller160 on June 08, 2017, 10:47:33 AM
I have an old trailor with a good axle and about 60% good metal, I'm hoping to get it worked out that way.

When you build it, I had installed 1"x1" tubing that is bolted to the trailer frame. The track is bolted to the tubing. Reason, I was able to add shims to make sure the track was level. To do that, level out the trailer first, them shim from there.

Also, when welding the trailer. Weld just a little at a time and then flip the trailer over and weld. Once all welded, use a string line to see if all is straight. If you have a hump, weld a heavy bead on the other side of the hump. That will draw out the hump.

JD Picket · June 09, 2017, 08:19:59 AM

Sorry it took me so long to post the pictures of the toe board I built. It's operated by a 2500 pound wench. It's made from scraps I had laying around. I got the bearings from Amazon. (Hope I can say that)

You also see where I left the adjustable feet on the mill frame so I can make adjustments to the mill frame or replace any pieces that get damaged.

I also relocated the scale so I could see it better. I'm not very tall so where it originally was mounted was hard from me to accurately read and make adjustments.

Hope this gives some of you Woodland Mill owner some help/ideas.

fishfighter · June 10, 2017, 07:45:37 PM

Got any close up pictures of your toe board? I need to build one.

highlandsaw · June 15, 2017, 06:46:02 PM

Good choice on the Woodland. Have had mine since 2014. Very happy with how it mills and the support I have had when I had a question.

Southwood · December 17, 2017, 02:16:06 AM

I would shop around, I have a woodland mills hm126 & have had nothing but problems. I bought it 2 years ago for building a workshop & a timberframe cabin. So far I haven't started anything because of all my problems. It's been 2 years and woodland is still troubleshooting it & keep having me try new parts & we are getting no where. Save yourself time & stress & shop around. If I could do it all over again I would have bought a woodmizer lt10 for only a $1000 more.

hilltop67 · January 24, 2018, 12:28:09 PM

I ended up pulling the trigger on a timbery m100 last spring. I was able to take advantage of a dealer rebate and liked that it could cut a 22"cant which was larger than the woodlands 126. Prices between the two were very close and that was what tipped the scales for me. I was able to get creative and cut up a 30" hickory log so the 26" max is just a suggestion ;) I haven't had any major problems but timbery has been great when ordering blades. They are at my door super fast (within 2 days) and very affordable. I think it was 165 for 10. I have more recently gotten an extention to be able to cut 16 feet. I really don't like moving 16' material but I wanted to saw beams and posts for a barn so I was stuck...lol I would guess I have between 75-100 hrs sawing so far. Mostly for myself but I have done a little for others. I have heard good things about woodland but I am happy with the timbery.

jtimbermill · February 06, 2018, 01:59:02 PM

I don't know much about the woodland Mills other than there videos I've seen. I have a timbery m285. I like the portability of my saw I added an extra length so I can cut up to 24'. I have put a 23' x24" white oak on the mill and it handled it well with no deflection. I use the log loading attachment and it had no problems rolling anything up the ramps and on the bed. The mill is well built, I beams, 4 post carriage and I got the large 23 hp Subaru engine and it has plenty of power I love the ceramic guides they are much like the guides on my Laguna HD16 bandsaw the blade never gets hot so I haven't had any issue with pitch buildup like so many sawmills have and I am able to extend my blade sharpness and life. So for the money I personally believe it is well worth it. All and all I am very happy with the saw yes it is hard work but I enjoy the exercise. That being said here are a few cons, I wish the water tank was removable for two reasons ease of filling and I wouldn't have to drain it when the weather gets below freezing I'd just take it inside. The water auto cut off doesn't work well so I just bypassed it and use the valve. I guess if those are the cons it's a nice mill. I have about 9000.00 and with the project I have already done it has paid for itself probably twice and I've had it almost 1 year. It is very accurate as long as you set it up right the scale is nice and I use a laser to help with set up and make sure it is level and can get a 23' log perfectly straight and square

jtimbermill · February 06, 2018, 02:36:56 PM

Hilltop67: after using your mill are there any changes you would make. Sorry I never responded to your first post been busy making sawdust lol. I agree with you timbery has fast and respectful service I recently purchased the lap siding attachment and got it in about 3 days, it works well but I had to do a minor modification. I plan on taking video and sending it to timbery so they can solve the issue. I'd post pictures but haven't figured out how yet.

hilltop67 · February 07, 2018, 11:15:23 AM

jtimbermill

No need to apologize, I would rather make sawdust than sit at a computer too. There is one thing I modified on my mill and that was with the water drip system. I didn't like the hose that went from the tank to the blade because I had little control over the amount of water coming out and I wanted it to drop vertically onto the blade. I added a 90 deg bend where the hose dumps water onto the blade. I also added another valve to the line so 1 valve can be on/off and the other is calibrated to drip water. That way I can just turn the on/off and not have to mess with having too much or not enough water.
I didnt think of having a tank that was removeable, I am running windhshield washer fluid right now because its always below freezing. I just leave it in the tank with no worries.

I would love to see your siding jig, i have been tempted to get one and see if I could modify it to fit the m100.

jtimbermill · February 07, 2018, 07:53:51 PM

If I could figure out how to post pictures I'd put the lapsider on, along with many other sawmill pics. I'd say you could come see it if you were close to Heber Springs Arkansas. I think I'll steal your extra valve idea for the water.

hilltop67 · February 08, 2018, 09:04:53 AM

I will get a pic of my tube and valve setup. I would rather have a needle valve on one of them to have better control but right now I have 2 ball valves ( it was the only ones I could find at the time) A trip to Arkansas would be fun event better if I could figure add it into my spring break trip as a write off :D

Jack S · February 08, 2018, 10:11:32 AM

When I got my norwood lm29 the first thing I did was add a 12 volt solenoid valve and a micro switch. Adding needle valve would also make it easier to fine adjust the flow as Hilltop67 suggested. This was an easy mod to do and less than $20

jtimbermill · February 08, 2018, 10:19:50 AM

Jack S
Very clean looks good I like the idea. Did you put a switch on the handle so it closes when you finish the cut and let off. Where did you get your parts?