sealing between logs

[bic]

I am going with the piece on piece method of building, (hunt camp) just wondering if anyone has any sugestions on how to insulate between the logs. I was going to use sill foam layed between logs then dowel together, any other thoughts, someone else suggested accustic caulking. Any comments??
thanks ahead
bic

[D L Bahler]

no plastic

no rubber

If it's truly a piece on piece, why not use an authentic method?
Tongue and groove the logs together, a double t+g works great

Or if you want, run a bead of roofing tar down the middle

[bic]

I don't think there was mention about "authenticity" just method. All though I have been debating it, minimum 80 logs t&g (x2) top and bottom, I'll be collecting my old age pension by the time I get just the walls up.

[D L Bahler]

Rubber and plastic products will cause your wood to deteriorate
There is little that is more effective in the short run, but in the long run they can be disaterous

[bic]

thanks DLB I wasn't aware of that, dose that include sticky foam strips? I see them using them on "Timber Kings" sealing joints. Also wondering about a bead of chinking ??
thanks bic

[jander3]

Quite a few chinking products at the following:

http://www.loghelp.com/

i.e. backer rod and chinking.

I like EM Seal (tar soaked strips) and wool insullation.   



 

[Lakeerieloghomes]

Chinking is the way we do our log homes. Insulation strips can also be used. Sashco products have been the best we ve found over the years.  Proper drying, sealing, and chinking save a lot of headaches down the road. Cheaper is not always better!! In the case of log preservation, cheaper is never better...

[ckprivette]

have you considered Log Jam?

we built a log home in 1997. The logs are 8" wide white pine, and they were put up green. We filled in the gaps between the logs with various sizes of tubular foam insulation. Then, we put Log Jam on top of the foam. It is an acrylic mixture, and came in 5-gallon buckets. We applied it with a large caulking gun, and smeared it out smooth with a putty knife. It literally looks just like mortar. It is flexible so it hasn't pulled loose from the logs in 17 years, and I can not tell that it has damaged the logs at all. It was a little pricey, but it turned out to be a great investment.   chris

[bic]

thankyou for the input folks, I have looked back on my first post, and I don't think I explained myself properly, the logs are going to be square, in the nieghbourhood of 6x8, 6x10 if possible I did not want it to show any chink lines. Just the logs. What I originally was thinking was a double strip of foam tape a couple of inches in from the inside and outside. Something that is compression resistant, in that it will move with the wood contracting and expanding through the seasons. Or do I have to have a seal (eg. chinking) on the outside edges.
thanks ahead for any input
bic

[Lakeerieloghomes]

All log homes or cabins need to be chinked/caulked. Customers often ask; what is the difference between chinking and caulking? The difference is caulking has a smooth appearance and chinking has a textured appeal. The main purpose of chinking is to protect your home from water and insect intrusion. Chinking is also a permanent answer to air leaks, no air leaks lower utility bills. Even small gaps between logs or in corners can act like a water trap and a home for unwanted insects leading to dry rot in the future. Pay close attention around windows and doors; if these areas are left unattended it is the equivalent to an open window all night during winter months. Properly applied sealants, chinking and backer rod will ensure that your home is protected properly and is long outlives your future generations. I have seen the results of many improperly constructed log homes with deterioration issues which are costly to repair and a huge pain. My best advice is to not try to reinvent the wheel and save yourself the headache and repair costs in the future. Use high quality products. Also, when planning log dimensions, plan for your sill heights and windows to be in keeping with the log dimension. This will make your window installation much easier, I.e. A 8" high log could have a lower sill height of 32" and upper of 56". Granted, logs can easily be notched for custom windows. Just some food for thought.

[bic]

thanks again, I appreciate the input, just throwing different thoughts out there. Would you suggest that the logs not lay flush on top of one another but spaced slightly, to make room for backer rod and caulking/chinking.

[Lakeerieloghomes]

There are many different methods for log profiles. You can do a tongue and groove which is effective for minimizing air flow. However, it can be painstaking if you don't have the equipment to do the t&g work. It is not impossible, just depends on the amount of work that you want to commit yourself to completing. I built a 30x40 two story cabin for a customer in a very, very remote location. No power. No actual roads. We had to pack and trailer  in everything ourselves. We built it using a 6x8 profile, planed interior walls, rough rustic exterior, cut bevels on the lower side of each exterior face and caulked. This was a ton of work. I figured we handled each log 5-6 times between unloading to setting. It can be done. Myself and one of my experienced carpenters had the cabin dried in about four weeks into the build. This is not the way I prefer to build. But, it can be done.