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066 Troubles

Started by Woodboogah, October 24, 2013, 07:24:13 AM

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Woodboogah

I am having some issues with my 066.  Its older with the screw on caps not the flip style.  It seems like when its cold it wants to start up without issue.  After it is run for a little while when I let off the throttle it wont idle and just die and sometimes it takes a few pulls to get it going again.  It is extremely frustrating.  When it is warm and has sat for 10-15 minutes the only way I  can get it to start is hold the throttle wide open and pull it over, even this takes about 5-10 pulls.  I have messed with the idle screw and that seemed to work for a few tanks of fuel then back to the same old.  I dont want to mess with it to much and burn it up.  Also, when it is running it sounds like it is revving higher then normal.  If it makes a difference I am using synthetic oil, as of now there is a 20" bar but normally a its run with a 28".  Any suggestions would be much appreciated.  THank you.
Keenan Logging & Tree Care, LLC

Al_Smith

Rebuild the carb .What you have is a classic case of the main diaphragm hardening up not allowing it to pump fuel .

Oil has nothing to do with it weather you're a fan of Amsoil at 100 to 1 or straight 30Wt motor oil mixed 16 to 1 .No amount of "cleaning the carb out " like so many have tried will fix it .A ten dollar rebuild kit will .

FWIW an 066 will pull a 36" bar  buried like it were childs play if every thing is correct with the power head.

AdkStihl

066/660 don't have flippy caps
J.Miller Photography

Al_Smith

That was smart .Too bad they went the other way on some models .

Woodboogah

I wasnt sure about the flip caps, I wish they all had screw caps.  Thanks for the replies and that will be on the list of things to do while waiting for skidder parts.  Always something!  Thanks again.
Keenan Logging & Tree Care, LLC

AdkStihl

Check your impulse hose for cracks. You could have an air leak somewhere too.
The only reason I say that is the fact you say its "revving more than normal".
That could just be the carb starving the saw of fuel.
Don't run it until you figure it out.
J.Miller Photography

MidWestTree

While your spending some time to work on it why not take a few extra minutes and run a compression check and pull the muffler bolts to have a look for any piston scoring etc. It pays to be thorough when somethings not right.

I always have a look at the exhaust side of the piston, check compression and vac test any saw I'm working on for air leaks. Rebuilding a carb and missing an air leak will get you a cooked saw every time if you miss that.


Woodboogah

ADK-I have no plans on running the saw until its fixed.  I learned that lesson the hard way, twice!  I noticed today when  the saw is stored it leaks fuel and it seems like it its coming from the breather, the hose on top of the tank.  Not sure if that is the correct term.  Would this mean there is an air leak somewhere, impulse line like mentioned above?   I can take pictures in the morning if that would help.   
Keenan Logging & Tree Care, LLC

Al_Smith

You probabley have a check valve not seating often refered to as the fuel pump diaphragm .Partially unseated it would let the fuel leak out by capillary action from the fuel tank .

Dribbles down into the crankcase and you have a tough time getting it started .

Now say that is the case here's what happans .You get it running ,idles okay you gas it and make a cut .Because the check is stuck you don't pump a full charge into the diaphragm fuel cavity .In a given amount of time it gets fuel starved .It's a lean run condition and can be as detrimental as a crankcase seal leaking

sharkey

I agree with Al.  If the saw is 10-15 years old it needs attention and you might as well do the work now than wait.  Why put a band aid on it?  Replace the bearings and the seals, replace the cylinder base gasket, new fuel and impulse hoses, new breather and filters and then put a new carb on.  You will have a saw that is better than what you can buy today including the knowledge that you did the work.  If you need help or get stuck just post up your question and Im sure someone around here will know the answer.   

Woodboogah

Thanks for the replies.  I will most definitely post my questions if I get stuck.  Skidder goes back together tomorrow and 066 will be the next project.  I have a 460 that is not starting but that is for another day.  They are my two oldest and that 460 was and still is my favorite saw to take to the woods. Better than any new saw I have bought by far.
Keenan Logging & Tree Care, LLC

Al_Smith

 :D New is relative .When they moved the zero from the front of the model number to the back would be new to me .

Full Chisel

Woodboogah, when you added that it leaks, I would look for a loose carb. Some times things don't seal hot the way it does cold. With the vibrations on a chainsaw, always check to make sure everything is tight. And you got another 460 that don't run? Sounds like fuel problems.
Jed: Jethro, how's come they ain't no ice in Kali Forni-a?

Jethro: Don't look at me Uncle Jed. I didn't take it.

Woodboogah

I will check the carb.  I think if I am going to tear into it my best bet would to replace all that I can.  I looked at the 460 from the exhaust side and the piston is pretty well scored.  I have not torn it apart yet to see what the cylinder wall looks like.  To much to do and not enough time.
Keenan Logging & Tree Care, LLC

Al_Smith

Well now that's another thing .You know I've seen a lot of pistons  slightly toasted but it wasn't from a lean burn .

They got smothered from their own exhausts .The screens get plugged up ,the baffles cook them but everybody who doesn't know any better thinks a simple modification of a muffler system is detrimental to the longevity of a saw when the exact opposite is more accurate .--mumble grumble --

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