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Purchased a circle mill

Started by Raithi, April 13, 2019, 09:20:29 PM

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Raithi

So I just bought an old Turner Pony 56" circle mill 25' of track. $1,000 came with a box of teeth, tool to take em out, and the sweat as well as the origional book and all the belts and pullys.

Still in pieces out back, gotta wait for it to dry out to pour footers to set the track on.

Ive ripped alot of beams with my alaskan, never run a circle mill. Ive been up close on an old frick at a few heritage shows in my area.

Just curious how this thing stacks up I thought for the price I couldnt pass it up.
Also its been modified at some time. Book says 2 headblock but it has 3.

Gearbox

You came to the right place . There are a few members still running circle mills as well as Jeff the owner of this site who ran mills . Just shout out your questions . Welcome .
A bunch of chainsaws a BT6870 processer , TC 5 International track skidder and not near enough time

hacknchop

Congrats and welcome to the forestry forum , the work you are about to do is very important make sure everything is straight and level ,by paying extra special attention to details will go a long ways toward ensuring an accurate and consistent product .
Often wrong never indoubt

dgdrls


thecfarm

Raithi,welcome to the forum.
What's the plan for the lumber?
I see you have a skidder too. Just for your own use?
Model 6020-20hp Manual Thomas bandsaw,TC40A 4wd 40 hp New Holland tractor, 450 Norse Winch, Heatmor 400 OWB,YCC 1978-79

Raithi

Skidder is just for personal use yeah. I dont have a legit business or anything. I have sold some live edge ripped with the alaskan.

As far as the lumber, my wife wants me to build a house, post and beam. Which i can do. Past that im not sure. I just came across it with money in my pocket and bought it on a whim.

Raithi

Im planning on using my wd45  on a belt for power, though Id like something with more umph I have an old ls-1 v8 in good running shape Im playing with the idea of building an imbert downdraft wood gasifier to power the motor and use that to power the mill.

Power the mill on wood, use to cut more wood 😉
That will be a down the road project though after shes already setup and running.

moodnacreek

Raithi, way to go. Do a good job on the footings at the log end and husk. You wouldn't like 2 head blocks, 3 0r 4 . It is hard to learn on 2 also. When you get it running, that chainsaw won't get used much.

Raithi

Thats the plan, put that damned alaskan mill to rest.

As far as the footers, what do you think as far as depth and width? After the storm we had tonight its going to be a few days before I can even start to dig.

Darrel

Welcome Raithi, I've never owned or been a sawyer on a circle mill but I have worked different jobs around them a whole lot in my younger days. They definitely have their strong points. Good luck. 
1992 LT40HD

If I don't pick myself up by my own bootstraps, nobody else will.

moodnacreek

The footings must be below frost [where are you?]. Ask a builder in your area. I would say 8"x8" poured concrete min.

luap

Welcome to the forum. If the mill is assembled now, take pictures and measurements to help your memory. one critical dimension is distance between saw and end of bunk that log rests on. another is height of carriage in relation to mandrel. Depending on the diameter of your saw collar, if the carriage is to low a log with sweep in the lower position or a branch stub not trimmed off could hit the saw collar. When the mill is assembled, put a level on the log bunk, and the mandrel. You mentioned the diameter of your saw but not how many teeth. The number of teeth determines hp required to saw. When measuring from saw to each headblock, rotate saw and measure off the same tooth.  Stretch a tight string or wire across the face of each headblock and adjust the couplings on the shaft the setworks is mounted on to bring them all in line. There is more but these are some basics.  

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