Milling without a ripping chain

[rasawing]

I got a tree coming up where it's just too big to deal with it by sectioning it like normal. Therefore, for a lot of it.....I'm just going to cut it like a board to get it to a weight that can be carried. I haven't done much cutting parallel to the grain in the past. But what little I have done....it was with a ripping chain. But I was wondering: what are the pitfalls of using a regular chain on something like that? Too slow? Get hot too quick and jump the bar? 

This is a once in a while deal for me so I didn't want to spend the money for a different chain. Thanks. 

[sawguy21]

A cross cut chain will do fine but won't leave a smooth finish.

[Weekend_Sawyer]

Yep, it will work. Might take a little longer.
Jon

[Hilltop366]

For a big cut it may work better and be easier on the saw if the chain had less teeth on it.

My theory is ripping with a regular chain the chain will pull side to side which is what causes the rough cut it also seems to wear the bar grove and chain drive links faster, the closer to 0° that the chain is filed the smoother the cut and less sideways pressure on the bar and chain.

Just doing a little bit will be no big deal but if making longer cuts more often it would be worth getting a skip tooth ripping chain or modifying a used chain for such occasions.

[Al_Smith]

It's still a lot smoother than a circular  saw and it's considerably faster than rip chain .If you attack it at about 30 -45 degrees to the  log it will chew right through .At 90 degrees to the log it will blow sawdust and take a month of Sundays to get anything done .

Now think about it,it's a salvage tree most times,rather than it all end up as firewood in most cases .It would be another story  if it were an old growth fiddle back maple but usually it's not .Much ado over nothing trying to get out one more 1" plank IMO .