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square cut jig

Started by Jeff, August 27, 2003, 07:14:02 PM

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Jeff

I need to make some very square butt cuts on some cedar logs/posts so they stand straight and flat on a floor. Does anyone have an idea on how to do this with a chainsaw?

I have a couple of mind pictures but they include drilling holes in the bar. Does drilling holes in the bar screw it for normal use?
Just call me the midget doctor.
Forestry Forum Founder and Chief Cook and Bottle Washer.

Commercial circle sawmill sawyer in a past life for 25yrs.
Ezekiel 22:30

Kevin

You can drill em but they're hard.
Are these posts round with a taper?
How large dia. ?

Jeff

they have taper. I'd say they are anywhere from 6 to 12 incnes across including the butt flares. they aint real round. Typical cedar butts
Just call me the midget doctor.
Forestry Forum Founder and Chief Cook and Bottle Washer.

Commercial circle sawmill sawyer in a past life for 25yrs.
Ezekiel 22:30

Kevin

Can you can clamp them or secure them as straight as you want them in a vertical position on the floor then scribe them using the floor as a guide?

Jeff

I figured I would just elevate and orientate the small end with wedges or blocks or something. The problem is making the chainsaw cut square.
Just call me the midget doctor.
Forestry Forum Founder and Chief Cook and Bottle Washer.

Commercial circle sawmill sawyer in a past life for 25yrs.
Ezekiel 22:30

chet

A while back I did some posts simular to your project for a buddy. I screwed an eye hook in the center of the small end and suspended the pole from the ceiling of the garage so it would be perfectly verticle. Then did as Keven suggested, scribed a line around the base parallel to the floor. It wasn't that hard to follow the scribe line with the chainsaw.
I am a true TREE HUGGER, if I didnt I would fall out!  chet the RETIRED arborist

Bro. Noble

If it was me,  I'd look around and see if I couldn't find someone with a DRAG SAW to cut them square :D
milking and logging and sawing and milking

Jeff

Hey! that would work! If I could only get it sharpened right. I would also have to get the wax lady to come down from dat Iron River.
Just call me the midget doctor.
Forestry Forum Founder and Chief Cook and Bottle Washer.

Commercial circle sawmill sawyer in a past life for 25yrs.
Ezekiel 22:30

Kevin

If you were able to scribe them would it be too much to use a handsaw?

Bro. Noble

Old-timers used an oilskin to lubricate their saw (a piece of bacon would probably work) and kept a half pint whiskey bottle with kerosene in it to cut pitch if they were sawing pine.

I'll bet there some old-timers around Harrison that could show you haw to maintain those saws and would love to teach you.
milking and logging and sawing and milking

Shamus

I like Chet's idea, but how about lowering the butt into a bucket or tray of paint to make the 'scribe' line. After the paint dried, it would be real easy to follow visually. As long as your saw is sharpened properly, and doesn't cut in a potato chip fashion, you should be all right.
D&L Doublecut Synchro sawmill, Procut chainsaw mill, John Deere crawler loader,  F350 4x4 flatdeck, 20 ton logsplitter, running Stihls

Steve

I have had this problem myself when using upright poles in construction. What i did that seemed to work pretty well was to use a piece of heavy paper at least as long as the pole is in datemer and a few inches wide, say 5 or six. When you encirle the log with the paper just keep overlapped edges even and it should give you a pretty straight line around the pole.
Not precise maybe but it worked for me. The above may not be understandable however?
Steve
Hawaiian Hardwoods Direct
www.curlykoa.com

Oregon_Rob



There have to be several ways to go about it. I would think for getting the odd shaped log level, you could lay it on a bench..... and measure from the floor to the pith at both ends.
If you did it near a wall, you could also do this to get the log parallel to the wall.
For cutting, could you find an Alaskan Mini-mill or the kind that you run along a 2x4 (Don't remember what they are called), to borrow? Then rig up a guide board that is 90° from the wall and make the cut. I hope there is a file attached to this and I am sorry for not being a better artist.
If you want a larger size file that you can read, send me a message with your e-mail.

Rob
Chainsaw Nerd

Jeff

Here is why the paper idea wont work.

Simulated view of end of log:

Just call me the midget doctor.
Forestry Forum Founder and Chief Cook and Bottle Washer.

Commercial circle sawmill sawyer in a past life for 25yrs.
Ezekiel 22:30

Jeff

Here is why I ask. Don't ask me what I'm doing. I just got it piled in there hoping it will speak to me. ::)


Just call me the midget doctor.
Forestry Forum Founder and Chief Cook and Bottle Washer.

Commercial circle sawmill sawyer in a past life for 25yrs.
Ezekiel 22:30

Kevin

Throw some paint on the floor, place stump on paint, grind off hgh spots... repeat.

What are you doing anyway?

Jeff

Just call me the midget doctor.
Forestry Forum Founder and Chief Cook and Bottle Washer.

Commercial circle sawmill sawyer in a past life for 25yrs.
Ezekiel 22:30

Kevin

I'll bring my gaffs down when it's time to thin out the tops.  ;D

Tom

You mean like this?


If you put some rocks around the flares of those posts, or some fireplace implements or some kind of decoration like flowers then you won't have to be too perfect.  Making the bottom concave a little will help it sit on uneven concrete a little better too.

Jeff

Yep. Learned how to build them from reading My side of the Mountain as a kid. I am sure I mentioned it before. was my favorite book growing up. taught me how to snare too. ;D
Just call me the midget doctor.
Forestry Forum Founder and Chief Cook and Bottle Washer.

Commercial circle sawmill sawyer in a past life for 25yrs.
Ezekiel 22:30

Mark M

Hey Jeff - why don't ya just screw some eye-bolts into the top of them trees and hang em from da sealing? They would self level and ya woodent have to worry about dem.

Mark

Bigdogpc

Build a router platform that allows the router to run parallel to the floor, as tall as your posts.  Reverse the posts and shim/adjust until level.  Climb stepladder and rout the butts.  Same principle applies to routing slabs too big for a planer.  Yes, it is a stretch but I think that is how I would do it.

Weekend_Sawyer

"My side of the Mountain" Wasn't that about a kid who ran away and lived in a hollowed out tree and had a hawk for a friend? Seems to me that was a good book.
Jon
Imagine, Me a Tree Farmer.
Jon, Appalachian American Wannabe.

SasquatchMan

If you use a "beam machine" you won't have to drill any holes - they clamp - and they have a level built-in.  So you would need to prop your posts horizontally, and then you could use the beam machine as a guide - set up the control 2x4 at right angles and go...
Senior Member?  That's funny.

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