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Questions for a Linn Sawmill build

Started by foamnone, January 09, 2019, 10:41:52 PM

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foamnone

How close do you "need" to get the saw guides? When sawing 2x4's how far apart are your saw guides?

Crusarius

the reason for the dual slides is not for the guides. its for dual width adjustability quick and simple.

All I would have to do is relieve tension undo 2 bolts slide frame to next set of bolts then tighten 2 bolts put new blade on and tension. Then your ready to saw. 

If I make it dual width and just make the frame longer so I need to change the slide to a different location then I would also need to unbolt the guide wheel assembly. move to next set of holes. Since the guide hole assembly uses 3/4" holes with 3/8" bolts realigning it is a PITA! SO my thought was to make it quite a bit simpler.

Of course in the process of thinking about this I came up with another idea. But it would still require a piston adapter for the extra length. So that is 1 more part to keep track of.

Hope this is making sense can't get in the drawing mode to really show you what I mean.

Crusarius

ooh look what I found in my gallery.




This is the bottom side of the fixed side of my sawframe.




here is the adjustable side. See how the guide wheel assembly goes into the cutout in the frame? That has the 3/4" holes with 3/8" bolts for adjustability. That is the piece that sux to align.

So instead of having to unbolt and move all that I would unbolt the frame from the fixed side and slide it out to the next width. wala! done.

Crusarius

doh. here is the picture with everything on the correct sides :)





Don't make the same mistake I did and weld it all together backwards :)

foamnone

 

 

I think I got what you are saying. What I am thinking is permanently mount the roller guide arm (blue) to the end of saw frame like you were using at full size saw (40 inches between guides). It acts as a stop if band breaks and does not need adjusting between big saw or little saw. Same slidey thing is used...no bolts are taken out just change blade and add/remove hydraulic tension spacer bar. Everything is fixed to the saw except the rod for spacer. Dont have to worry about motor or drivebelts, bolts or adjusting anything

Big saws work like this? Could add a trolley style bearing to support the arm fully extended

Crusarius

Going to make a ton of badness if the short band breaks on you. I think I would add a physical stop to the short band location just to feel a little better. don't forget about guards. When I was designing my stuff I totally forgot about them and they never really fit well. I have 1 I really like the other not so much.

charles mann

Quote from: foamnone on January 16, 2019, 06:57:52 PM
 Could add a trolley style bearing to support the arm fully extended
I'm going to do something similar with mine. i plan on taking a 1"-1.5" stool rod, jig it, weld several (probably 4) 2" wide 1/2" flat bar, roughly 4" long and then weld the flat bar to my saw beam, use some left over 3"x3"x1/4" wall tubing cut a 1/2" slot in it, insert a block of UHMW into the 3x3 sq tubing, drill and tap the UHMW for 3/8" bolts to hold the UHMW in place inside the sq tubing and center bore a hole in the UHMW, the diameter + 0.001" of the rod for a snug fit then mark off and cut a 1/2" slot to match the sq tubing, and install a grease zerk for a bit of periodic lite lithium greasing so it slide horizontal along the rod, to be to adjust my blade guide in and out. I may just use 3 flat bars and no 1/2" slots and place the middle flat bar at just under 26" (maybe 24") from my drive side, which will allow me to mill down to a 24" log, but still provide me my full 72" cut width. 
I do like the idea of using the I-beam, and may change my design to a 3/8" thick 10" i-beam, if the 1 i have is long enough. if not, ill stick with the 5"x5"x1/4" sq tubing. and gusset it to support my engine and build my motor mounts accordingly. 
i sure wish i had some of your tooling, i wouldn't have to hire out the machine work for drive axle, axle housing and my UHMW material and casings. 
Temple, Tx
Fire Fighting and Heavy Lift Helicopter Mech
Helicopter and Fixed Wing Pilot

foamnone

After looking at the work to alter the saw frame I already have I m just going to stick to the plans. I'm sure V2 will be in the fiture

Crusarius


Vautour

                 charles mann... I read your building a mega sawmill... this guy on youtube (Matthew Cremona)...he used cook's 26'' wheels and also built a mega bandsaw... building his in the winter time...
the Gospel is WANTED by the people in 52 Countries but made illegal by their Government

charles mann

Quote from: Vautour on January 17, 2019, 07:26:20 PM
                charles mann... I read your building a mega sawmill... this guy on youtube (Matthew Cremona)...he used cook's 26'' wheels and also built a mega bandsaw... building his in the winter time...
yes sir. i bought his plans. my problem is, my power plant is WAY to much pwr and stupid heavy. i was going to go full hydraulic, but after listening to the guys here, i changed back to conventional, but only after buying a 100hp cummins diesel. 700lbs of motor, and i think that is wet weight, but not including the radiator and fuel cell. I'm going to put my cell on the lower side and back of my carriage. plus humping several 5gal jerry cans of diesel 4-5' in the air to fuel up, isn't my thoughts of a good time. my tractor is back enough, fill neck is about 4' high, but at least i can climb on my lift arms to get above the neck. i guess i could use a ladder for fueling, but ill cross that bridge when i get there. 

@Vautour 
Temple, Tx
Fire Fighting and Heavy Lift Helicopter Mech
Helicopter and Fixed Wing Pilot

Vautour

............ Charles mann... yeah that would be heavy for sure.... my plans are a lightweight car engine i've got two Toyota echo (they are about 50hp) very cheap on fuel and very quiet... I've pounded steel all my life and now my brain rattle with noise ...I wanna hear the blade go thru the log is my goal....no diesel for me.. too noisey and I can't stand the fumes...going 24 volt (might go fully hydraulic later) .
the Gospel is WANTED by the people in 52 Countries but made illegal by their Government

charles mann

Quote from: Vautour on January 17, 2019, 08:48:12 PM
............ Charles mann... yeah that would be heavy for sure.... my plans are a lightweight car engine i've got two Toyota echo (they are about 50hp) very cheap on fuel and very quiet... I've pounded steel all my life and now my brain rattle with noise ...I wanna hear the blade go thru the log is my goal....no diesel for me.. too noisey and I can't stand the fumes...going 24 volt (might go fully hydraulic later) .
i love the smell or jet a or diesel, in the morning, afternoon, and anytime in between. plus i can't hear anyhow. 6 yrs in artillery, and the last 15 as a heavy heli mech, listening to turbine engines scream has pretty much deaf. I'm not worried about the rattling in my head, i found out yrs ago, it was just my marbles.  ;D
Temple, Tx
Fire Fighting and Heavy Lift Helicopter Mech
Helicopter and Fixed Wing Pilot

foamnone

Quote from: Crusarius on January 17, 2019, 07:15:34 PM
Thats boring.... :)
I know! It just makes more sense to use 2 70 inch tubes for the saw frame rather than rigging up extensions for my current 60 inch ones. I need to make forward progress before I get yanked off on another project

Crusarius

I understand that. When I was in the middle of my sawmill build my snowmobile decided to fall apart. So I had to stop and fix that. Seems like there are always small projects getting in the way of the big fun ones.

Just be careful you don't get burned out on the project and start doing quick patches just to get it done. I took a couple months off from building because that was starting to happen. Now I just keep working on it when I have time. Worked out well and I did not build a bunch of stuff I would regret later.

Crusarius

vatour, I have an old straight 6 4.0 liter out of a jeep wrangler that I thought about turning into a generator that attaches to the sawmill for towing. Then when I get onsite pull the engine away from the sawmill and park it 20' away. Use an electric motor on the sawmill.

When at home I could just plug it in and not have the noise of the engine. That is a dream though. I would love to have all electric. and silent. Just like my snowmobile, if I could get 300 miles out of an electric sled I would do it in a heartbeat.

Vautour

         Charles mann... quite an impressive background..(hats off for your services) i like to study the history of America(and past history like 3 thousand years ago)... remember the ALAMO :rifle:......Crasarius ... those jeep 4.0 were not known for fuel economy... my echo engine would be running at 1500RPM for my high speed which should still be as fuel efficient as anything out there running at 2500-3000RPM... IMHO..
the Gospel is WANTED by the people in 52 Countries but made illegal by their Government

Crusarius

not the best for economy. your right. but hard to beat them for torque.

foamnone

I built a trailer for spray foam that carried a 50 kw diesel generator. Ran great for 10 years for my business. I loved it but also made enough money to need it.

My wife asked for a raised flower bed (last year) told her I needed to build a sawmill to get the wood. 

So far I've purchased the basic mill kit, 1 stick of 2x2 angle and a piece of 3x3 tube.... so I'm up to $100 in metal.

I still need to buy track wheels, raise lower screws and the long pieces for the track. 

Crusarius

I used acme threaded rods on my build and not sure it was the right thing to do. I keep wondering if a cable or chain setup would have been better.the acme rods seem to have alot of resistance and when raising 200 pounds of sawframe it take about 15 amps. and takes forever. coming down is great but going up stinks. Almost wonder if using a winch motor with brake to a jackshaft and using roller chain on all of it. double roller chain on everything so you never have to worry about a failure. not that roller chain would ever break.

or I need to find time to try the garage door spring idea and see if it helps.

foamnone

Is it too heavy for the size motor you have? Are you using 12 or 24v?

Crusarius

using 12 volt wheelchair motor. when I first set it up it worked better than it does now. I made the mistake of lubing the rods. now I can't seem to get them clean. plus the sawframe being so unbalanced does not help. I have plans to fix all of that but other things are more important at the moment.

I will probably redesign the entire head to balance the full assembly to make up alot easier.

Vautour

               Crusarius..... I've been pondering this raising and lowering application for the last year....Here's my conclusion... acme rods.. nope...... too slow and requires losta moving parts and would have to be built outside my carrige top frame(and most sawmill stop using this method).. I like everthing concealed inside my carriage.. Cables..?.. almost.. was afraid the    cables would jump and start twisting the head and start binding   ...Chains..?.. YES..one chain on each side attached to the jackshaft turned by my combo24volt DC motor/gearbox.. and definitely gonna put a overhead door  spring on the jackshaft...bought all the sprockets this week and should have photos in a few weeks...
the Gospel is WANTED by the people in 52 Countries but made illegal by their Government

Crusarius

That sounds awesome. now can you find a torsion spring that will work. use a torsion spring on the jackshaft and you get the best overall package.


foamnone

What rpm electric motor is common on a sawmill? My logic (has gotten me into trouble) is a low rpm 1800 for tourque at low end. 

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