bandmill posts and clamps

[jpad_mi]

Hello all.

My name is Jeff. First off, let me say that this forum has been a wealth of information and I wish I would have found it long ago (I've been reading faithfully for the last 4 or 5 months). I look forward to being able to contribute, but have never sawed a log in my life nor have I seen a mill in operation. My brothers and I have been building a bandmill for the last 8months and are pretty close to starting the trailer frame/log deck. The mill will be used for hobby sawing and we hope to be able to do a few side jobs if it works well. The deck will be set up for cutting 16' 6" logs, but I expect we will cut shorter stuff  a lot more often (down to 4ft). I have some questions on the log posts and clamps:

1) How many posts should I make, and at what spacing?
2) Same question for the clamps (which I assume are mid way between the posts?).
3) Can anybody provide pics of  recommended clamp designs?

Thanks in advance for your answers. Here are few pics of the head assembly so far. It is shown with the front cover off of the guards.

[D._Frederick]

Mi,

On my set on the ground mill, I have a post and a clamp on each of the log rests. They have different spacing, there are a set that will hold a 4 ft log. The longer the log the wider apart the log rests are.

[Fla._Deadheader]

We set our bunks at 32" apart, and the log stops are 5" apart. We made them higher than W-Mizers, theirs are about 15" high??
  If we get a log thats shorter than the log stops will hold, we simply place a board on edge longer than the stops, and clamp the log against that. Works well.

  Our clamp works on an acme thread rod, that slides the mechanism on a 2" X 2" solid steel bar, and has a short hyd cylinder attached, for raising the clamp and helping to turn large logs.

[Tom]

While clamps are important, don't forget the bunks.  Dead-Header's are a  typical distance apart but you will find that the more support you give to the under-side of the log, the more accurate your boards may be.  You don't want too much cant hanging out over the end of the bunks because the blade may push it down and cause some "thick-n- thins":.

You definitely want closer bunks where the clamp is located if you think you will be cutting short logs.  Lots of good wood ends up being cut to 18" or 20"  and stacked on the street for the Garbage  man to pick up.  If you can cut this short wood, you may find some real bonanzas for free.

[Jeff]

All I can say is great state, greater name.  ;)

[D._Frederick]

mi,

Do I see a radiator on the end of your engine? What make is it and what horse power?

[Danny_S]

This is how I made mine, the post on the left has a "T" handle that locks it in place on the square tubing. The Right one is stationary but moveable. Both posts roll on a long pin basically that goes through the middle of the square tubing between the bed. That way the posts will always be at the same height. They will go down and rest on that crossbunk and allow me to clamp within 1 1/4 of the bed.The left one also has a threaded rod union welded to the top with a 6" crank bolt with pointed tip to hold log in place.

[Danny_S]

Here is a clearer, painted view  ;)

[rbarshaw]

I use 3/4" pipe clamps with a support next to the pipe so it does not support the log weight. I had to get two different sets of clamps so both sides of the clamp are movable - you can put the log or cant anywhere across the bed! These work very well for me. Pictures are posted here on 'The Bandmill That I Built'.

[jpad_mi]

Thanks for the good suggestions so far.

rbarshaw - I'll check back in the posts to look at your pics.

Danny S - thanks for the pics; looks like a good system. Is it just friction that keeps the posts at the right angle/height, or do you have to lock it up somehow?

fla-deadheader - any chance you could post pics of your set-up. I've got acme rod, but figured it would take too long to make large adjustments.

D_frederick - yes, liquid cooled Kawasaki 16hp. Nice and quiet; can't wait to see how well it pulls a band through a log.

[Fla._Deadheader]

Here ya go. There are 2 nuts welded to the bottom of the square "slide", that the hyd. cylinder is attached to. We use a 1/5 HP 12V gearmotor and chain drive to turn the acme thread.

[Larry]

I was going to take a picture of my bunk's today but I don't like rain and wind.  Found these pic's in my file and think they will give you a general idea.



Log stops in the up position.



For bigger logs I have a sleeve that slips over the log stop to make it taller.



Log stop in the down position.  They also drop down a little further and have a half way position at about a 45-degree angle but didn't have a picture.



The clamp side.  The eccentric cam has a tool that fits in the holes to cam it tight on the log.  They are adjustable for both height and width but awkward at best.  The bunks slide on the angle iron rails so I can adjust them to cut from 18" to as long as I want.  I have two of the twin bunks with stops and clamps and another two single bunks that don't have stops or the clamps.  I do a lot of taper sawing so I adjust the bunks so the butt flair hangs down so I don't have to raise the small end of the log very much.  

[D._Frederick]

Larry,

If you are ripping a cant up and it become springy, does it lift your log rests (bunks) off of your angle rails?

[Larry]

D,
Forgot to mention that.  Swivel clamp with a thumbscrew that holds the bunk fast to the rail.  I turn a lot so don't have much problem with the cant springing anyhow.

[redpowerd]

im glad larry showed some pics of the kasco.

those bunks are handy and quick to position around the mill.
the log clamp leaves much to be desired, i find i can clamp the snot out of a log, only to have a clamp drop as soon as i enter the cut >:( ive also mashed myself pretty good when im clamping and the tool slips loose >:( (larry, is that a collar on your clamp post? i aint got one but i could see how an adjustable one could be handy)

welcome to the forum, jeff

[Larry]

Red,
Yeap that's a collar on the post with a thumbscrew like thing that holds it in the vertical position.  When you tighten the cam try to get the width right where it is close to center on the cam and it won't loosen most of the time.  I also made a longer bar to tighten the cam so I can apply more force.