iDRY Vacuum Kilns

Sponsors:

Blades breaking too fast

Started by xlogger, September 15, 2012, 07:31:36 AM

Previous topic - Next topic

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

xlogger

I've having trouble with my blades breaking on the 2nd or 3rd sharpen (TK2000). I put new belts on my wheels and the blade seem to be riding like it should on the wheels. They are cracking in the gullet. I was thinking about changing brands of blades to see if I had the same problem and if that's doesn't solve the problem it's more than likely in my adjustments. Looking for ideas on what others have done. Ricky
Timberking 2000, Turbo slabber Mill, 584 Case, Bobcat 773, solar kiln, Nyle L-53 DH kiln

POSTON WIDEHEAD

Ricky, actually this could be a number of things.

How many board feet are you sawing before you sharpen the first time? When I first started sawing, I tried to saw with a new blade WAY longer than I should have, reducing the life and strength in the blade.

Also, how much tension are you putting on them?

Do they break on soft woods as well as hardwoods?

I send my blades to WM for resharp. So if you sharpen your own, I can't help there.

Good Luck.
The older I get I wish my body could Re-Gen.

Kansas

If you sharpen your own blades, pull early and often. Make sure the gullet is ground out good. I figure about 3 hours is more than enough on a bandmill.

xlogger

I do sharpen my own blades (could be the problem there >:() Most of the time on the first or second sharpen you don't get much in the gullet. I hate to grind too much at a time. Ricky
Timberking 2000, Turbo slabber Mill, 584 Case, Bobcat 773, solar kiln, Nyle L-53 DH kiln

dgdrls


Kansas

If you are not getting the gullet on the first pass, I wonder what the problem is. Do you have the right cam for the blades? Are you taking off more than you need on the face of the tooth? Generally speaking, you just have to kiss the tooth if you haven't hit anything. If you go more, the cam may be trying to lift before it gets in the gullet. Then it would take a few grinds to get down to the gullet. If you are pulling every three hours, chances are the blade is still pretty sharp. You are really just touching up the face of the tooth, and sharpening more to get the microscopic cracks out of the gullet.

drobertson

What is the brand of blade? has this always been the case or is this a certain batch? 
only have a few chain saws I'm not suppose to use, but will at times, one dog Dolly, pretty good dog, just not sure what for yet,  working on getting the gardening back in order, and kinda thinking on maybe a small bbq bizz,  thinking about it,

red pine

Older more seasoned red pine logs gave me the same blade breaking problem. Had no problem when logs were fresh. (may be specific to red pine). I opened my soapy lub more and cleaned blade more often of the pitch that accumulated to eliminate my blade breaking problem (even new blades). Sharpness also important.
I note from the Suffolk Machinery web site (item # 13) given by DRGrls that blades with hooks less than 8 degrees can break. Timberking blades are 7 degrees. Does anyone have any comment on this?

Kansas

A think a lot of people use Woodmizer's 4% blade. We run 10, except in the winter when we drop back to about 8. I have heard good things about the 4%. Think we tried a few, but just never stuck with it.

Tom the Sawyer

Unless you reground them to 7 degrees, I believe all Timberking blades are 10 degrees when new and their resharpening service (in KC) only sharpens at 10 degrees.   :)
07 TK B-20, Custom log arch, 20' trailer w/log loading arch, F350 flatbed dually dump.  Piggy-back forklift.  LS tractor w/FEL, Bobcat S250 w/grapple, Stihl 025C 16", Husky 372XP 24/30" bars, Grizzly 20" planer, Nyle L200M DH kiln.
If you call and my wife says, "He's sawin logs", I ain't snoring.

slider

Rikey ,Kansas made a point about not grinding the gullet properly .You should be just kissing the face of the tooth and fully sweeping the gullet on the second pass if the band is not way out of whack.you may need to reshape your grinding wheel .tim cook has a good video if you need help.
al glenn

xlogger

I've broke two more blades since I posted here on the second grinding again. I did swipe the gullet on the last two blades and they still broke. After looking at my mill it's running about 1/8-1/4 off the back of the wheel like it should and cutting boards nice and square. But I did see a couple of cuts in my new belt on the band wheel on the power side. I'm going to order a new belt and put it on. I just put this on about 20-30 hours ago. The one that has a cut was a napa and the other one that's in good order is a goodyear. I'll try to find another goodyear belt. The blades are cracking in the gullet. I didn't post the name brand of my blades because I didn't want to bad mouth them, I'm thinking it's me or the machine. But I might try a new brand to see if I get longer life. Ricky
Timberking 2000, Turbo slabber Mill, 584 Case, Bobcat 773, solar kiln, Nyle L-53 DH kiln

TimGA

Ricky,     
     I have the same mill as you, had the same problem.  I really sarted paying close attention to time on blade and the sound of a sharp blade the way it cut and keeping it clean. But the most important thing I do is change it before it is dull. I think if you waited to long to change the first time, you probably cracked the gullet. I think you should get your belts from TK. I got 260 hrs on first set, they say change around 300 hrs. Mine had many cuts but still worked well. I hope this helps I know it is frustrating, I would give your salesman at TK a call see what they say. PM me if more questions.     Tim
TK2000, Kubota L3130GST, grapple, pallet forks, 2640 Massey w/loader (The Beast) Husky saws Logrites One man operation some portable most stationary.

Thank You Sponsors!