Has anyone made any from fir,
Hemlock or spruce we have in New England?
The old timers said straight grained white pine was almost as good as cedar.
I think the shingles that were on the barn roof, on the farm where we grew up were Hemlock!
As Moodnacreek says a lot of shingles were made from white pine. Pine shingles should be stained or painted otherwise they will turn black. Even untreated they will last a long time if they can dry out. I have cut a lot of them to utilize the tops of pine cut for logs. It seems there is 16" between the nodes on pine tops. Brother Bruno I don't see why you cant use hemlock or fir but I don't know for sure. Frank C.
My whole house is untreated white pine and the dormers and upper gables got white pine shingles. I was told that is what we used to use around here. Too bad you don't have any white pine.....
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Dave
I got so much white pine I'm selling logs to the mill :D
I know.... trying to make light of it... Bust out the shingle jig and get sawing... Native Wooden Shingles!
White pine heart wood is somewhat decay resistant
Had a guy tell me he has 100 year old spruce shingles on his barn, also have heard that a species of spruce that grows in wet areas were good for shingles but can't remember fo sure what it is. Thinking maybe Black Spruce?
The Norway spruce we get down here I would never use. Red spruce I would be afraid of and black I can't say. Sound, slow growth hemlock should work. I call it poor mans cedar.
Dave
My shingles will be locally harvested organic Wood shingles :D
Here in western Oregon, Red Cedar is the most used, however old Growth straight grain Douglas fir was also used. my uncle had a large old chicken house 40'+ long) that was roofed in hand split vertical grain fir shakes and was probably 30-40 years old in the late 1950's, roof was not rotten and did not leak.
I always thought the key to any wood roof shingle lasting was to have both sides exposed enabling it to dry completely??
Crow hill, that's where a lot of roofs are put on wrong. Fast drying is the key. Zinc or copper ridge caps are helpful also.
Some of the old timers put a Vee trough at the peak of the roof and put ground limestone in it to keep the roof shingle light. Frank C.
If I get time I will get my shingle mill going.
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I was ogling that beauty when I was down to your place. I cut mine on an 1880's Lane Shingle mill over in Canterbury or some such.
Quote from: shinnlinger on July 17, 2018, 10:58:45 AM
I was ogling that beauty when I was down to your place. I cut mine on an 1880's Lane Shingle mill over in Canterbury or some such.
it was at least 5 miles from Canterbury - much closer to Chichester.. :)
How are you doing btw?
Sorry Bruno for the hijack.. I've taken pine shingles off 150+ year old buildings that looked to be in really rough shape but looked brand new on the back side.
Remember a 16" shingle, put up 4" to the weather has 4 layers of wood, an inch or more thick before you get to the boards behind it... An old yankee sayin says, "a man who puts up pine shingles won't live long enough to have to replace them"
BTW that Chase of Peter's has a much better feed design than the friction wheel on my Lane...
-J
Sorry Jason, that was some time ago, at least I don't think Concord! but a neat experience I was glad to participate in. Glad you got it up and sawing again.