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Frick circle saw ways (tracks): Wood or steel

Started by oros35, May 08, 2015, 11:18:49 PM

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oros35

 So I made the mistake of building some ways for my O Frick saw out of treated lumber.  I now have a twisted mess that I cannot get straight.   Live and learn.

I need some advice.  I would like to restore the saw using wood ways, but don't know how to get nice straight lumber that will stay straight.  (and I have to admit I am very green in all this, only one way to learn right)  I don't have the tools to take rough lumber and make it straight and true. 

The easy option is to use steel.  I have the tools and know how to build and know they would probably be more accurate, but this isn't a production saw just an antique toy for me.  I would like to restore it to as original as practical.

I would like to go with wood but don't know where can I find lumber to fit my needs.  Steel no problem.

What should I do? 



  

beenthere

If you want to go wood and go treated, then shop around for some of the treated laminated posts. They likely will stay much straighter than treated solid posts/beams.

I used four of them for a "pole" shed that were each laminated with 4 2x6 treated dimension.

What size treated material twisted up on you?
south central Wisconsin
It may be that my sole purpose in life is simply to serve as a warning to others

Brian_Rhoad


oros35


oros35

Quote from: Brian_Rhoad on May 09, 2015, 12:41:20 AM
Frick used Fir for the wooden mills.
Any idea where I can find Fir to build with? 

Ron Wenrich

The treated stuff is green.  That stuff always seems to twist when it drys.

We had a mill that was restored using Doug fir.  I'd go to a local building supply.  They would be able to locate it better than a box store.  4x4 would work, as I think that was what Frick used.  I know our restored mill had that. 

Looking at your setup, how deep do you have your posts?  You have to be below frost line or you'll get frost heave and your alignment will be junk every spring.  The other is about sawdust.  Since you won't be sawing much, you will still need someplace to go with the dust.  Every old mill like that had a pit under the saw and husk.  When you have the track off, I'd dig one.  I don't know if you're planning to put a building over the mill, but you will need to make some sort of accommodation to keep the sun off the saw.  It will give you fits if you don't.
Never under estimate the power of stupid people in large groups.


Autocar

Old rail road tressles are made with long fir/western red/ yellow pine lumer there big timbers but you take the bolts out and there norally 8 x 24's x 27 feet it has been a long time sence Ive sawed any.
Bill

bandmiller2

Stay away from pressure treat its crapola when your concerned about stability. Any good mill deserves a roof over its head. Several 2x8 or 2x10's like Belsaw recommended nailed or better bolted togather is better than PT. I used high line cross arms, doug fir, I recut on a bandmill real stable. Creasoated contact points and stained the rest. As Ron said foundation is most important. What are you using for metal track on the wood and how are you fastening it down.?? Frank C.
A man armed with common sense is packing a big piece

oros35

I'll try to answer all your questions.
First the posts are 6x6 and 4' in the ground, tied together side to side also.  It's a pretty solid base, And I expect to have to check and adjust as needed. 
There is a pit under the saw, poured in concrete, with enough room for a chain sawdust remover.  that is in the works but gotta get the saw cutting straight first.
While my setup might not be perfect, I think it's adequate for right now.  My biggest problem is the twist and bow in the 4x6's.  Everything else I have a solution for.

My plan was to cut a building for it.  So that is in the works too once I get it working (I figured I'd be cutting by last fall but here I am, Funding was cut last fall  :o).
The track is the factory Frick, one flat and one rounded steel.  Screwed in to the ways with 1 1/2" wood screws, same type as was in it when I started rebuilding it. 

When I went to the lumber supply yard (not a big box store and happens to be a Weyerhauser dealer, I'll have to ask them about that stuff)  Talking to the salesman he said "you have a saw mill!!"  'let me know when you get it running cause we always have people asking for it and don't know of anyplace close'

So that's one reason I am here, I don't know where to get good lumber for this at.
And as always there is a budget to consider, Steel is about $1600-2K.  That is not in the budget at the moment. 

Size That came off of it was about 3x4 or 3x5, pretty close to a treated 4x6 but not exact.  I adjusted to keep the same outside dimensions.

Thanks For the Ideas!


Ron Wenrich

Have you tried Babcock Lumber?  They're in your neck of the woods and have a wide range of product.  They probably can give you some really good advice.  They're a big company and have been around for a long time.  Got it through a web search.  There are probably similar ones if you search. 

Never under estimate the power of stupid people in large groups.

bandmiller2

Oros, probably by now those PT's have done their dirty twisting trick and have dried out. I would take off the rail and with a power planer and long straight edge take off the high and shim the low. Get the rail as level as you can especially side to side. Remember with a circular mill "some fitting required". Frank C.
A man armed with common sense is packing a big piece

oros35

Never heard of Babcock lumber, I'll have to search for them.

They are good and dry.  Even if I had a planer I'd be taking inches off to get them straight.
There is no hope for the stuff I have, it will turn into posts for the building for the mill!

Don_Papenburg

Why not use untreated fir ? then treat it yourself when you change the oil in the diesel. Brush it on the timbers everytime the oil needs changed. 
Frick saw mill  '58   820 John Deere power. Diamond T trucks

oros35

Guess the simple answer is I don't know where to get untreated fir in the size I need. I admit steel is my comfort zone, learning as I go with wood.

After some Internet searching I haven't come up with anything within a 5hr drive. Guess I need to start calling around. That Babcock place is fairly close but only lists 8/4 sizes. Maybe they can help with bigger sizes to if I call tomorrow.

Edit: Ok I'll put my foot in my mouth. H.P. Starr lumber says they have 4x lumber in Stock and about an hour away.
Quote from: Don_Papenburg on May 10, 2015, 10:03:21 PM
Why not use untreated fir ? then treat it yourself when you change the oil in the diesel. Brush it on the timbers everytime the oil needs changed.

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