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Making smooth crosscut on timbers

Started by Overlength, January 31, 2013, 09:52:25 AM

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Overlength

I have a large job making 1000 Oak blocks cutting 4"x 6" timbers to 10" lengths. Using Stihl 36. Was cutting with a duller chisel tooth chain and getting smooth cuts. Put on a just sharpened chisel chain at local place, and it tears out at the edges. What is the best chain to crosscut and get a smooth cut? Thanks for any advise.
Woodmizer LT30, Solar Kiln 400 bf

Al_Smith


Overlength

Thanks a lot ! That should do the trick. Will pick one up. When I get to 900 and something, and don't have to go back and touch up edges, I'll really be thankful. Have a good One!
Woodmizer LT30, Solar Kiln 400 bf

lumberjack48

I would put the old chain back on. ;D
Third generation logger, owner operator, 30 yrs felling experience with pole skidder. I got my neck broke back in 89, left me a quad. The wife kept the job going up to 96.

shinnlinger

Half way down this thread you will see an easy chainsaw attachment I made for cutting timbers square.  You might like it.  more pics in my gallery.  https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php/topic,34391.msg503893.html#msg503893
Shinnlinger
Woodshop teacher, pasture raised chicken farmer
34 horse kubota L-2850, Turner Band Mill, '84 F-600,
living in self-built/milled timberframe home

rooster 58

     Hi Overlength, something else that might work is to make your cut on that edge by having the chain pull into the wood ;)

loggah

I really think a 16" timber framing circular saw would be a lot easier to use. 1000 pieces is a lot of chainsaw time. Don
Interests: Lombard Log Haulers,Tucker Sno-Cats, Circular Sawmills, Shingle Mills, Maple Syrup Making, Early Construction Equipment, Logging Memorabilia, and Antique Firearms

rooster 58

    Another tool would be a 12" miter saw. I used my Dewalt when I built my log home, It cut nearly all the way thru a D shape log, just had to finish the bottom back corner against the fence with a little "shark" saw. So a 4x6 should be no problem

shinnlinger

If you have call to use a big circ saw regularly, than it probably makes sense to get one, but to toot my own horn,  you owe it to yourselves to look at my link above and see what I did to a chainsaw before you spend $2-400 on an underpowered saw that you will only use once in a great while.  There are more pics of it in the "tools for timber framers" sticky link that are not in my gallery. 

It works REALLY well and you can probably make it in half an hour with stuff you have laying around.

Dave

Heck Ill even post them here.  https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php/topic,34391.msg501798.html#msg501798
https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php/topic,6403.20.html
Shinnlinger
Woodshop teacher, pasture raised chicken farmer
34 horse kubota L-2850, Turner Band Mill, '84 F-600,
living in self-built/milled timberframe home

fishpharmer

Dave, neat idea the "flying H" now I will have to make one for square cuts.
Thanks
Built my own band mill with the help of Forestry Forum. 
Lucas 618 with 50" slabber
WoodmizerLT-40 Super Hydraulic
Deere 5065E mfwd w/553 loader

The reason a lot of people do not recognize opportunity is because it usually goes around wearing overalls looking like hard work. --Tom A. Edison

sharkey

Shin,
I like the looks of your flying H design.  Got a question though, can it pivot or is it stationary?
Thanks,
Bob

giant splinter

The chain saws work very well for smooth cutting beams but for large quantities I have to agree with Loggah and Rooster58 the Makita 16" beam saw or even the 12" mitre saw will make a cleaner cut than I can get using the Prazi set up.
roll with it

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