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Hemlock Cabin ideas .... Newbie here! Northern Michigan

Started by Treeman49649, February 09, 2018, 07:06:24 AM

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Treeman49649


I have 70 Hemlocks dropped (16' DBH average) and the butt ends sealed.
  now it's time to Buck the limbs and forward the logs up into a staging area where they can be peeled this spring.
I really would like to have a round log home but I need more information.
This is my first log build and was getting ahead of myself here but this is the best time to drop the trees.
  I have way more questions than answers but could use all the information I could get.




ChugiakTinkerer

Welcome to the forum!  I have no experience with hemlock and even less with building with round logs!  You'll probably want to get the logs up off the ground, and to find out if you have enough to build with, get an inventory of the lengths and small end diameters.
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Don P

First would be a chat with the building official to see what he requires.

Treeman49649

Thanks for the advice guys ! I am trying to forward them up to a peeling area in the spring. There plenty of ice and snow here to keep things interesting... I hope that they came be on ground until thaw ?
Don, what could I have for issues with a inspector? Is there issues for Hemlock round log homes ?
                                 Thanks in advance !

starmac

Here is a recent thread on one method, it is not a method I would prefer, but it is cheap and easy.

http://forestryforum.com/board/index.php/topic,99192.0.html
Old LT40HD, old log truck, old MM forklift, and several huskies.

Treeman49649

Thanks Starmac... That guy has his hands full too. There's many opinions on here ...

starmac

I love the looks of a full scribe log house, but they are labor intensive and takes some measure of knowledge, plus some experience would not hurt either.
The custom builders here are also very picky on the logs they will use, I doubt if 1 in 10 would be considered as a house log.

It is a lot less labor to go with 3 sided logs, and maybe even 2 sided logs.
Lathe turned round logs are also used a lot here, and a lot less labor intensive , nor skill required either. I just do not like the look as well.
Old LT40HD, old log truck, old MM forklift, and several huskies.

Don P

You never really know till you have the conversation. Whenever I plan to do something out of the ordinary I go have a sit down conversation with the BO and ask him what I'll need to do. Since this is non prescriptive, that is, outside of typical code book construction, he may ask for engineering or he may ask that you follow the code referenced log standard, or he may say draw up a set of plans and we'll take a look. Basically I'm getting a feel for what I need to do to make it work for everyone at that stage before I invest a whole lot of effort going down an unproductive path. He'll ask what you want to do so be prepared to describe the materials and methods you plan to use but don't lock yourself into one path. Listen to what he is asking for and be prepared to modify your ideas. Basically I lay out what I want to do and listen for what he needs to get me there.

Have you picked out a method of construction you would like to use, do you have a basic set of plans and elevations at this point?

Treeman49649

 Thank you both for your helpful responses!
Starmac I bet your right about the log quality for a builder... when I get the logs out and staged I think I'll have a cleaer picture.
Don P, I have a friend who is a logger nearby that has built two log homes locally .
I think he can answer some questions. If worse comes to worse I can possibly shift to a post and beam type system. I'm sure there's some nice possibilities there.
After the hemlock is secured I have plenty of white pine to consider  also.
The area that I'm taking this from needed to be cleaned up anyways . It should improve my property considerably. If Hemlock woolly adelgid appears I'm going to be ahead of the game.. the remainder of the hemlock stand I can manage.
I am a Michigan commercial pesticide applicator (outdoor) in several different certifications. Lately my specialty has been Oak Wilt control.
This may not become the classic log cabin but....
Boy some of his equipment sure would come in handy right now LOL

Treeman49649

BTW Don P,  the logger that I did mention is also a excavation, septic tank business owner also.
He also has poured wall panels!
It seems in the recent years that he has become very fond of logging. I climb the hard removals for him( near property lines power lines etc).
Thank goodness I can barter with him...

Don P

Cool, he is going to be gold. See if you can get "The Craft of Modular Post and Beam", James Mitchell. Along the lines of the Hudson Bay Co log buildings. His method is post and beam with log infill, lots of good ideas. I like it for several reasons. Lighter parts and the post and beam means the overall building doesn't settle. Settlement is always a devil to deal with when you get down to the finer detailing, easy in the big scheme thinking, a bugger when you get to things like stairs, plumbing, trims. Good info in there whether you use that method or not. B.A. Mackie's "Notches of all Kinds" is another good one on many methods of corner notching if you go that route. With hemlock the main thing to look for is shake, other than that I like it. We have your hemlock, and the adelgid, and another rarer one, the Carolina hemlock.

Treeman49649

Thanks for the advice ! I will be looking forward to finding theses ! The local library might have them. The high school for many years has a cabin build class here.
I am trying to advance the logs... hands are pretty full . Please keep info coming. It really means a lot !

firefighter ontheside

I live in a Scandinavian scribed log home made from Minnesota red pine.  The logs are about 20" at the butt end and 10" at the other.  The longest logs(purlins) are in the roof and they are 43' long.  A log home company from MN built the log home up there and then dismantled, numbered and shipped down to MO.  I with several of my closest friends helped two guys from the company put the logs back up over 2 days.
The lateral joints between logs have a chainsaw cut W cut in the bottom of the log and a V notch cut in the top.  Insulation is stuffed in this joint before putting together.  Then a bead of caulk is on the outside.  There is no need for chinking of any kind on the inside.  I feel like it's the ultimate of log home construction types and I highly recommend it.  I did finish the rest of the house myself.

Good luck with yours.
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Treeman49649

Once I forwarded and bucked my logs I have had many different ideas. What was one straight standing is crooked when landing!
 Doing a post and beam seems most likely.
 There's a lot to learn when you're a newbie!
 Being they are larger diameter than most pass through cabins I was thinking about doing hewned dovetail first floor also...
 I still have most of my 12in dbh and under standing.
 I have time to study before I have to peel or mill but if anybody has any suggestions they sure would be appreciated.
 Since this project began I have also gained a shed filled of milled red pine . there's enough there to do cabin . Its dimensional and one by stickered (20 years).
 We had some additional snowfall so I brought down a couple of 80 foot Straight White Pines also. Many smaller ones available
 I am trying to get ahead by building my own drying shed as we speak and I will not begin to mil until May...

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