Looking to look at some sawmills

thecfarm · January 04, 2019, 09:19:35 PM

Depends on how much you going to use the mill.
I go in the woods,cut down a tree,cut it to length,bring it to the sawmill,saw it into lumber,put what I need on to the loader arms of the tractor,the rest gets stickered,bring tractor over to where I am building,build with whatever I have on loader arms,when done, go back into woods to get another log and start all over again. Most of you hyd guys saw in a week,takes me a year to saw. I'm a slow builder. ;D Than I would of gone with hyds. But I wanted a mill that I have moveable bunks,I can cut a 20 foot log,and I levered my mill only once,when I set it up about 10 years ago. I have turned some big ones on that mill and made it shake a few times.
If I was using a mill a lot and wanted some production and wanted to make money,hyds all the way. Hobby mill,manual all the way.

sideburnz · January 05, 2019, 08:41:12 AM

Quote from: thecfarm on January 04, 2019, 09:19:35 PM
Depends on how much you going to use the mill.
I go in the woods,cut down a tree,cut it to length,bring it to the sawmill,saw it into lumber,put what I need on to the loader arms of the tractor,the rest gets stickered,bring tractor over to where I am building,build with whatever I have on loader arms,when done, go back into woods to get another log and start all over again. Most of you hyd guys saw in a week,takes me a year to saw. I'm a slow builder. ;D Than I would of gone with hyds. But I wanted a mill that I have moveable bunks,I can cut a 20 foot log,and I levered my mill only once,when I set it up about 10 years ago. I have turned some big ones on that mill and made it shake a few times.
If I was using a mill a lot and wanted some production and wanted to make money,hyds all the way. Hobby mill,manual all the way.

This makes a lot of sense to me, but maybe I'm just hearing what I want to hear. Not looking for super high production, and I have enough flexibility in setup that I think I can do some things to make log handling a bit easier.
I had initially written off the used non-hydro LT40 I looked at because it was stretching the budget already, and I was crossing my fingers it was a hydraulic unit. Now I'm thinking it might actually be a pretty darn good option anyhow. In comparing with the LT15Start we would most likely buy new, I would gain the following for about $2k
21' cut length vs 11' cut length
24hp vs 14hp
electric power feed, and electric cut height adjustment
trailering ability
Hand cable winch operated log loading and turning.
Comes with about 30 blades
It's here locally right now- no delivery charge, no sales tax, no assembly.
I am thinking I could build a loading dock of sorts even with the deck of the mill to drop logs on with our tractor. This way I wouldn't be dropping logs directly on the mill, and they would just have to be moved sideways instead of lifted onto the mill.

tacks Y · January 05, 2019, 09:08:00 AM

Sideburnz, I just saw a sale on WM. LT15 6k, LT35G25 16.5k the 35 is non hydraulic so close to the one you are looking at. Plus tax from dealer, if in a year you hang it up the 40 will give you your money back if bought right. Good luck, they do have the 35 hyd for 22.5K or LT40 26.8k also.

Southside · January 05, 2019, 09:47:30 AM

A used hydraulic 35 would be a very good compromise on price and capacity. They are a very good mill, and no mine is NOT for sale. :D

Darrel · January 05, 2019, 10:19:25 AM

Sideburnz, Wood-Mizer sells the manual LT40 with different options, the best of which they called the "Logdeck Package". Basically this was all the options of a hydraulic mill operated manually. Loading arms and log turner are operated with a manual winch and toe boards are also operated manually. This option is a bit slow but also very much a back saver. If the manual LT40 you're looking at has this option it would be a sweet deal.

richhiway · January 05, 2019, 12:40:41 PM

I recently purchased a used LT 40 with a manual log deck. It is extra work but if you are not sawing for production or others it's fine.

Check my posts there are some videos of it.

It has the manual log turner, it works very good for large logs, it's faster to turn small ones by hand.

47sawdust · January 05, 2019, 05:28:24 PM

sideburnz,
I think that is a fine mill.You could be sawing wood in no time.I paid 8k for my 97 Lt30 in 2010,it had 300 hours on it.I have since added a lot of hyd.functions.
For 8k you could run it to see if sawing was for you and sell it for what you paid if you wanted to upgrade or felt you didn't enjoy the sawing process.
Welcome and good luck.

Don P · January 05, 2019, 08:55:54 PM

Quote from: Crossroads on January 04, 2019, 07:41:47 AM
I've ran 2 marathons and the Hood to Coast relay 3 times,

Just catchin up, Soo, on the Hood to Coast relay, did you happen to see a kid in gold lame? If you do it again, introduce yourself to my nephew

.

Crossroads · January 06, 2019, 01:37:52 AM

Quote from: Don P on January 05, 2019, 08:55:54 PM
Quote from: Crossroads on January 04, 2019, 07:41:47 AM
I've ran 2 marathons and the Hood to Coast relay 3 times,
Just catchin up, Soo, on the Hood to Coast relay, did you happen to see a kid in gold lame? If you do it again, introduce yourself to my nephew .

Lol, the last time I ran H2C was in 2008. It's a pretty big event, at the time I believe it was limited to 12,000 runners, but some of the costume stand out for sure lol i don't have a corporate sponsor anymore, so I've probably run my last H2C relay. It was fun though

sideburnz · January 08, 2019, 06:54:52 AM

After a weekends worth of hemming and hawing I called early yesterday morning to commit to that used LT40. Unfortunately it was already gone. You snooze you lose I guess.

The guy selling it is getting a new hydro LT40, so I'm going to head over and help him move boards and see what I can learn. Missed out on the mill, but made a new friend so it's not all bad.

pineywoods · January 08, 2019, 09:38:25 AM

One option seldom mentioned is buy a manual mill, use it for a while, then buy the parts and pieces to add hydraulics. Do-able but not really practical. Better to trade up. I went that route, but with home-made hydraulics on my old wm lt40. In daily use for several years, no complaints.

Woodpecker52 · January 08, 2019, 10:20:19 AM

I run a lt15 start with 14hp and have never been underpowered on cutting anything oak, pine, or cypress or even steel log stop! I just bought a used bed section and now it will cut 14' no trouble. I fitted mine with power feed for the @#$##@ of it to see if I could do it but with a good blade it really is easy to push the head. As far as turning a log on the bed I thought about building a log turner but I have cant hook large and small and just a few squirts of ATF on the bunks and a log turns no sweat so I think a turner is off the drawing board. One thing that is needed is rollers on the stops. It does great for what I got it for my own use and not production or business. It is perfect for my pocketbook and making the wife happy. The log holders are simple to use and I made a bunch using old pony clamps, the screw tops hold great and the bottom slides hold the cant and keep them from sliding on the bed. I think I paid 6K from dealer new no shi

pping. I am impressed by woodmizer though I would change a few things Which I will do eventually.

Woodpecker52 · January 08, 2019, 10:23:13 AM

added clamps and rollers

rjwoelk · January 08, 2019, 10:27:08 AM

I see you have chain drive . Got a good pic of how that is set up.

Woodpecker52 · January 08, 2019, 10:43:07 AM

Dc Dayton 3/4hp with ac to dc converter and speed control Ebay $240, gear reducer I had, 4, 17 tooth idlers 1, 24 tooth fixed sprocket, 3/4 in shaft and two pillow blocks some pulleys # 40 roller chain and free time, started with ac motor that I would start forward and reverse but thermal protectors did not like this cycle. At that time I had the ends of the chains connected to the head pins. I finally figured out that you really only need to catch a ride on the chain like a cable car does so I just let the chain continually run in a channel beneath the head and engage a fixed sprocket to pull ahead and when finished with the cut disengage and pull head back by hand (faster). Have a on off switch on head and kill switches at each end.

Woodpecker52 · January 08, 2019, 10:53:48 AM

This is the setup, through the head, square tubing with hole cut it top front section, just hand fit perfectly between the bottom of main beam and top of pins chain just runs through the channel not fixed to the head in any way no rollers etc. I just drop the sprocket down and it engages the chain and the head goes along for the ride. Its as simple as a ten speed gear change on a bicycle. No worry of sensors blown fuses, fried this or that just simple, keep it simple and easy to fix.

Cappy · January 08, 2019, 10:57:40 AM

Sideburnz, I too am fairly new to the forum as well, though I do follow the conversations quite a bit. I run a Norwood HD-36 on the east coast of New Jersey, a bit south of Toms River. My mill is all manual and I use it for mostly home projects and some dinner money for the wife and I. This mill cuts 28" wide, and will handle a log about 34" in diameter at about 12' long. I've done full 28" wide cuts without any worries. I seen that you've been looking into Woodmizer and they do make excellent mills. I've researched about 20 mill companies and they all are really good in their own ways. I went with the Norwood only because it seemed to fit all the features that I was looking for. If you wanted to swing by and take a look at mine maybe even try it out, your more than welcome.

alan gage · January 08, 2019, 11:12:25 AM

I was looking to buy a used manual mill or one of the really cheap new ones. Hydraulics were way out of my ballpark. Figured I'd be driving at least 5 hours if I bought a used one. I wasn't planning to mill really big logs and my dad has a tractor with loader so didn't seem like it should be a real big deal.

And then miraculously I stumbled on an old Timberking B-16 right here in town that had been sitting in the weeds for 12 or more years. It has hydraulic feed, loader, clamp and turner. Raising/lowering the head and backstops are still manual. It took a lot of work and some money to get it back in shape again but I sure do appreciate having those hydraulics.

I most appreciate the turner. I can't help but smile every time there's a 2-3000 pound log on the mill and I can roll it wherever I want. Can't imagine trying to turn them by hand. Hydraulic backstops and head up/down would be really nice too but I'll take what I can get.

I need to replace one of the lift cylinders so I've been loading logs manually with a skid loader (soon learned my dad's tractor didn't have enough lift capacity). It works but is a little dicey. A loading deck would be nice.

If I'd gotten a small manual mill I'm sure I would have adapted and gotten along ok but having a larger hydraulic mill makes a lot more things possible. In just the little while I've been doing this I'm surprised how many logs I've sawn that have maxed out the mills capacity. With a smaller mill I either wouldn't have been milling them or spending a lot more time and effort to manually break them down beforehand.

Alan

sideburnz · January 08, 2019, 03:33:22 PM

Quote from: Woodpecker52 on January 08, 2019, 10:20:19 AM
I run a lt15 start with 14hp and have never been underpowered on cutting anything oak, pine, or cypress or even steel log stop! I just bought a used bed section and now it will cut 14' no trouble. I fitted mine with power feed for the @#$##@ of it to see if I could do it but with a good blade it really is easy to push the head. As far as turning a log on the bed I thought about building a log turner but I have cant hook large and small and just a few squirts of ATF on the bunks and a log turns no sweat so I think a turner is off the drawing board. One thing that is needed is rollers on the stops. It does great for what I got it for my own use and not production or business. It is perfect for my pocketbook and making the wife happy. The log holders are simple to use and I made a bunch using old pony clamps, the screw tops hold great and the bottom slides hold the cant and keep them from sliding on the bed. I think I paid 6K from dealer new no shi

pping. I am impressed by woodmizer though I would change a few things Which I will do eventually.

That's great to hear! The pony clamps are a great idea, I'd never have thought of it probably because it's so simple. I think we're probably back to looking at the Lt15 start. Maybe the regular lt15 if I can convince the CFO

I also kinda like the idea of making some modifications. I like to tinker and problem solve

nybhh · January 08, 2019, 05:10:38 PM

I just "saw" :D this thread. My wife and I have 40 acres not too far from you in NY. 12446 zipcode, mid-Hudson Valley.
I didn't read this entire thread but I bought an LT15 start last year for the same exact reason, lots of projects, lots of trees, and didn't want all the ash to go up the chimney. I also bought an extra track section so I can saw up to 17'-something. I've been very happy with it and you are welcome to come take a look one weekend and even saw a few logs yourself if you want ;). PM me if you have any specific questions or want to arrange for a visit.

I only saw for myself as a hobby and I feel like this mill is more than enough for me in that use. If I was running a business or trying to make money at it, a hydraulic would be a no-brainer but the majority of my time is spent cleaning up after felled trees, processing firewood out of the tops, building stuff out of the lumber, etc. - NOT milling. I basically do between one and a few trees at a time, from start to finish, and the bottle neck is not the mill but all the other upstream parts of the process. If you have loggers delivering wood to your mill, its a different story but a faster mill is sort of a waste if you can't keep it fed. I certainly can't by myself.

wisconsitom · January 28, 2019, 12:59:31 PM

nybhh, your situation reminds me of mine. I too think hydraulics and other fancy add-ons are likely out of the question for me. I agree that it is the lifting, moving, stacking, drying, planing, etc. etc....and no the cutting per se, that will be taking up most of my time. Quick question;

Does the LT-15 allow you to simply push unit, rather than using crank? I watch (and watch, lol) youtube stuff where WM guys are cranking that handle, their necks bent at a funny angle, heads down, peering into blade area, all the while trying to crank that goofy handle. Then I saw some Norwood manual mills where the push bar is mounted on the opposite side (from where WM does their crank) and it just looks much more natural to walk and push from that side, and it appears one can actually watch the progress of the cut much more easily. What am I missing? I generally like the WM stuff, but for price and actual usability (for my limited needs), I sense that I could easily get along with a Norwood unit.

thanks,
tom

Darrel · January 28, 2019, 10:58:11 PM

The drive on a LT15 is done with a rope connected to the crank. Untie the rope and it pushes nicely.

wisconsitom · January 29, 2019, 08:17:32 AM

Thanks Darrel.

nybhh · January 29, 2019, 04:51:28 PM

The LT-15 Start doesn't have the crank - push only. I was never a fan of the crank either and one of the reasons why I felt comfortable "downgrading". Most of what I mill is pine so a few horses is less of a problem as well although I haven't had any problems with the small quantities of ash and maple I've milled.

H Ray G · January 29, 2019, 08:03:37 PM

I've only been sawing since last May and it is for my projects, using winter blow overs that have been going to waste mostly White Pine, Spruce, Fir and cedar. I have a Timbery M100 manual mill with 1 bed extension can cut 16 ft 8ins X 26 ins, up graded to 9 ½hp motor. I cut enough wood to build a 11' 8" X 15'8" shed cut all 2X8, 2X6, 2X4, and sheeting from 1X4,6,8 I had to haul the logs 8 miles to where I set up the mill the shed at this time is covered with tyvac and the roof is shingled. This summer I plan on using Cedar for reverse board and batten. The manual mill for me was not hard to push as long as I had a sharp blade, i need the exercise since I retired, I was not walking in the sawdust like some mills. I haul the slabes to the road and put a sign free firewood the slabes are always gone in a day. The complete mill delivered was under $4K that included tax. It took me over a year to make up my mind going to wood working shows and lumbering product shows.