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Skidders and hills.

Started by MJD, October 21, 2012, 11:16:30 AM

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MJD

After reading the tragic post about Mike Merry I thought I would post this, Im sure some of you do this but I thought I would say it anyway. When I bought my skidder I had never been on one before was as green as green could be, I asked alot of ? from the seller of the skidder and he said when ever you work on hills always back the skidder to a sizeable tree between the flair and arch and then set the brake. To me this became standard practice even if it meant pulling all the cable out, after I had the choker set I would pull away from the tree before starting to winch, that kept from marking up the tree that I was back to. It always stuck in my mind when old bob (seller) told me you dont want that skidder running you over if the brake fails. Be safe out there.

Autocar

We don't have big hills where Iam at but I also made it a habit to back up aganist a tree when Iam near steep ditch backs ect. A good practice to have I believe  ;)
Bill

Okrafarmer

Probably doesn't hurt to put the blade down, either. That should stop it from rolling forward in most circumstances, and if you put down pressure on it, it should hold it from rolling backward down a slight incline. If it's too steep, don't trust it unless you hook it on a stump or something.

The same precautions apply to all pieces of equipment, including cars. Try to take as many precautions as possible when parking any vehicle.

Always use as many precautions as possible. Put parking brake on, articulate strategically so skidder will turn into the hill if it moves, back against a stump or tree, put blade down. Do at least two of the above. If not enough of these options are available, and you know your parking brake is not reliable, keep a wheel chock in the cab to use.
He that dwelleth in the secret place of the most High shall abide under the shadow of the Almighty. Psalm 91:1

Operating a 2020 Woodmizer LT35 hydraulic for Upcountry Sawmill, Dacusville, SC

Now selling Logrite tools!

Writing fiction and nonfiction! Check my website.

barbender

Okra, I don't think you could carry a chock big enough to work with a skidder tire.
Too many irons in the fire

Okrafarmer

Maybe not. Their tires are too low pressure. But it might bear some investigating.
He that dwelleth in the secret place of the most High shall abide under the shadow of the Almighty. Psalm 91:1

Operating a 2020 Woodmizer LT35 hydraulic for Upcountry Sawmill, Dacusville, SC

Now selling Logrite tools!

Writing fiction and nonfiction! Check my website.

loggah

Thats one of the reasons i liked my franklin,when you put it in neutral the parking brake comes on automatically, plus put the blade down,your good to go. Don
Interests: Lombard Log Haulers,Tucker Sno-Cats, Circular Sawmills, Shingle Mills, Maple Syrup Making, Early Construction Equipment, Logging Memorabilia, and Antique Firearms

bill m

When I was running a skidder I NEVER got out of it without setting the brake and putting the blade on the ground. Even on flat ground. It only takes about 10 seconds to lower the blade. 30 times on and off the machine is only 10 minutes a day extra. I don't think that is going to break anyone.
NH tc55da Metavic 4x4 trailer Stihl and Husky saws

Okrafarmer

Ten seconds? You must have slow hydraulics. I would have thought 5 at the most.

It really is too bad, as various people have mentioned on the forum, and on other websites I have seen, that so many skidders seemed to have insufficiently designed parking brakes.
He that dwelleth in the secret place of the most High shall abide under the shadow of the Almighty. Psalm 91:1

Operating a 2020 Woodmizer LT35 hydraulic for Upcountry Sawmill, Dacusville, SC

Now selling Logrite tools!

Writing fiction and nonfiction! Check my website.

bill m

Quote from: Okrafarmer on October 21, 2012, 09:44:54 PM
Ten seconds? You must have slow hydraulics. I would have thought 5 at the most.
I just picked that number out of the air to illustrate a point. There is no excuse for not setting the brake AND lowering the blade to the ground unless you are lazy and impatient.
NH tc55da Metavic 4x4 trailer Stihl and Husky saws

bill m

Also OSHA regulations require you to put the bucket/blade etc. on the ground when ever you get off of the machine.
NH tc55da Metavic 4x4 trailer Stihl and Husky saws

Okrafarmer

Quote from: bill m on October 21, 2012, 09:52:07 PM
Quote from: Okrafarmer on October 21, 2012, 09:44:54 PM
Ten seconds? You must have slow hydraulics. I would have thought 5 at the most.
I just picked that number out of the air to illustrate a point. There is no excuse for not setting the brake AND lowering the blade to the ground unless you are lazy and impatient.

Your point is a good one. Even if it does take 10 seconds, it should still be worth it.

Quote from: bill m on October 21, 2012, 09:54:37 PM
Also OSHA regulations require you to put the bucket/blade etc. on the ground when ever you get off of the machine.

And it makes good safety sense too, whether you care what OSHA says or not. I've often fussed at people for leaving loaders, mowers, and other equipment up in the air. All it takes is a failed hydraulic line, or someone or something bumping the control, to bring the thing down. If you or someone else happens to be standing around, you could get hurt or killed.

I nearly got killed by a hydraulic line failing on a dump truck once. I jumped clear, and only got my feet and lower legs buried in the load of corn silage.
He that dwelleth in the secret place of the most High shall abide under the shadow of the Almighty. Psalm 91:1

Operating a 2020 Woodmizer LT35 hydraulic for Upcountry Sawmill, Dacusville, SC

Now selling Logrite tools!

Writing fiction and nonfiction! Check my website.

barbender

Many old skidders like my Pettibone have a cable operated drum parking brake, mine is non operational on my machine. I'd probably be more likely to get it fixed, except for the fact that my experience with that type of parking brake on older 2 ton trucks is that they really don't do much anyways, even when properly adjusted. I'd never trust one except on completely flat ground, actually I didn't even trust them then. I always just shut them off and put them in gear, which is also what I do with my skidder. The more modern spring apply/hydraulic release brake most equipment have nowdays is far far superior, which is to say they actually work :)
Too many irons in the fire

MJD

My 440 had the disc off of the drive shaft, alot of guys burnt there skidders up because sticks and leaves would collect there and the heat from the disc would catch fire. When I bought 440 the disc was off, Bob said it was just a good firestarter.

Okrafarmer

John Deeres have a Park position for the transmission, don't they? Their larger farm tractors always did, and some of the smaller ones. I remember it was a little hard getting the 4250 out of park sometimes when it was on a hill. The tractors usually did not have a separate parking brake if they had the park position. I've driven many different models of Waterloo John Deere from 1960-1992 and those tractors almost always were like that.
He that dwelleth in the secret place of the most High shall abide under the shadow of the Almighty. Psalm 91:1

Operating a 2020 Woodmizer LT35 hydraulic for Upcountry Sawmill, Dacusville, SC

Now selling Logrite tools!

Writing fiction and nonfiction! Check my website.

MJD

Mine you stepped the brake pedal down all the way and it would lock in place, stomp it to release.

lumberjack48

I ran skidders more yrs with out brakes then with brakes, you always make sure you have a tree to lean on.
Third generation logger, owner operator, 30 yrs felling experience with pole skidder. I got my neck broke back in 89, left me a quad. The wife kept the job going up to 96.

Norm

Never trust the park position in a JD tractor especially the older ones. On a slope they will not hold after some wear to the pawls.

treefarmer87

always remember a brake is a mechanical device, just like a gun safety that can fail.....
1994 Ford L9000
2004 Tigercat 718
1998 Barko 225
1999 John Deere 748G
FEC 1550 slasher
CTR 314 Delimber
Sthil 461
Sthil 250

Okrafarmer

With all vehicles, I have developed the habit of steering into the hill, so if it does roll, it can't roll very far.

After watching in shock as one of my round bales rolled about 100 yards down a hill, through a fence, across a road, and into the woods on the other side, I have taken pains to always lay round bales on a flat surface too, even if it means giving up on the current windrow and backtracking.
He that dwelleth in the secret place of the most High shall abide under the shadow of the Almighty. Psalm 91:1

Operating a 2020 Woodmizer LT35 hydraulic for Upcountry Sawmill, Dacusville, SC

Now selling Logrite tools!

Writing fiction and nonfiction! Check my website.

lumberjack48

When i had the new skidder, on steep ground i still use a tree. It was the only way my mind was at rest working below it, old habits are hard to break.
Third generation logger, owner operator, 30 yrs felling experience with pole skidder. I got my neck broke back in 89, left me a quad. The wife kept the job going up to 96.

Okrafarmer

Very true, LJ, and the steeper it is, the more precautions you need to take. For a very steep hill, a stout tree is really the only thing you could use. And check it to make sure it is stout enough.
He that dwelleth in the secret place of the most High shall abide under the shadow of the Almighty. Psalm 91:1

Operating a 2020 Woodmizer LT35 hydraulic for Upcountry Sawmill, Dacusville, SC

Now selling Logrite tools!

Writing fiction and nonfiction! Check my website.

Ed_K

I agree with Okrafarmer, I backed up to a 16" beech and had it up root,which took the back tires of the ground,the ground was steep with ledge under it.
Ed K

redprospector

I didn't read about Mike Merry, but from what I gather it doesn't sound good.
I'm trying to get a grasp of what's being done here. Are you guy's skidding up the hill? I'm figuring this from the talk of backing into a tree. Around here we are continually working on hills from 30 to 60%. Skidding uphill can be done, but it's a lot harder on you and the equipment. I try to skid down hill if at all possible. I usually quit using the skidder at about 45% grade and start using the dozer. I never walk or work below the machine if it can in any way be avoided.
My little JD 440b has a park position, and a parking brake (inside the back of the transmission), I also lower the blade and put enough pressure to almost lift the front tires. I guess if any one component failed it could be a wild ride to the bottom for the little John Deere.
I also try to keep myself in a position that I won't get run over by logs, or hooked in a choker and dragged along if the worst case scenario.
Any way I'll try to do a little more digging on this so I'll understand a little better.

Andy
1996 Timber King B-20 with 14' extension, Morgan Mini Scragg Mill, Fastline Band Scragg Mill (project), 1973 JD 440-b skidder, 2008 Bobcat T-320 with buckets, grapple, auger, Tushogg mulching head, etc., 2006 Fecon FTX-90L with Bull Hog 74SS head, 1994 Vermeer 1250 BC Chipper. A bunch of chainsaws.

240b

usually forced to yard up hill to a skid road because there is water or wet ground at the toe of the slope. with hardwood if its whole tree you can't pull them by the top also.

Okrafarmer

He that dwelleth in the secret place of the most High shall abide under the shadow of the Almighty. Psalm 91:1

Operating a 2020 Woodmizer LT35 hydraulic for Upcountry Sawmill, Dacusville, SC

Now selling Logrite tools!

Writing fiction and nonfiction! Check my website.

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