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I'm gonna name my mill "Thick-N-Thin Lumber"

Started by mainiac1, June 07, 2019, 11:47:53 PM

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mainiac1

I have a Woodmizer LT15. Bought it a few months ago used..its 5 years old. Having problems trying to consistently cut the same thickness of lumber. It has a magnetic scale on the upright which you adjust after you cut the slab off. Initially I tried going 4 to 4 which I thought would cut a 1-1/8" thick board. But I have to add a few clicks to get it to cut 1-1/8". same with other dimensions. Each click/notch on the wheel is supposed to be 1/16" but it really isn't. Has anyone run into an issue like this? if so, how do I fix it? Scale wrong? chain or cables stretched? I cut some 17-20" pine logs yesterday and tonight for some fence materials and I don't know if any of them are a consistant size I tried to cut.  I've cut probly 800 feet of lumber so far, starting with 3'-6' logs, but when I stray from 1-1/8" or 2-1/4" lumber its trial and error...mark the log end, count the notches, start a cut, adjust a notch or 2, and cut. Remember the number of notches I used for the cut to duplicate it. Really starting to pith me off! It can't be this hard. How many feet of lumber did you guys cut to be somewhat proficient in cutting the sizes you wanted? thanks for letting me vent a little.

Stuart Caruk

Depending on the mill, the scale can vary by how you look at it. Sometimes you
re eyeball isn't on the same level and parallax sets in. This is why they invented simple set to give a consistent drop in the cut, the Accuset to do the same and more plus allow you to take the kerf into account.

Your scale doesn't include a kerf allowance that can be adjusted. So the quarter scale allows for an 1/8" kerf. You need to solve the why part before you get a reputation for thick and thin lumber. I get a lot of business because the customer is sick and tired of the thick and thin boards from my competition. I compete on quality, and typically charge more, yet I get the work. Go figure.

Stuart Caruk
Wood-Mizer LX450 Diesel w/ debarker and home brewed extension, live log deck and outfeed rolls. Woodmizer twin blade edger, Barko 450 log loader, Clark 666 Grapple Skidder w/ 200' of mainline. Bobcats and forklifts.

WDH

Woodmizer has two magnetic scales.  One is called the standard scale and that sounds like the one that you have.  Going between the 4 - 4 marks yields a board thickness of 1".  The other scale is the hardwood scale.  Between the 4 - 4 marks yields a thickness of 1 1/8".  You need to order the hardwood scale. 
Woodmizer LT40HDD35, John Deere 2155, Kubota M5-111, Kubota L2501, Nyle L53 Dehumidification Kiln, and a passion for all things with leafs, twigs, and bark.  hamsleyhardwood.com

jimparamedic

I am a circular guy but even with these it takes some time to get into a set pattern as to looking at the scale in the same way how much and how hard to turn or pull the adjustment you will get a feel for the mill and you will know that its right without looking. 800bdft is just a good start every time you saw it will get better. It probable took 5000bdft for me to get dialed in. And yes we have to adjust our self to to cut good lumber

Magicman

And as soon as you get it dialed in, stress in the log/cant either raises or lowers one or both ends of the cant.  :o  Sawing is always a moving target.  ::)
Knothole Sawmill, LLC     '98 Wood-Mizer LT40SuperHydraulic   WM Million BF Club Member   WM Pro Sawyer Network

It's Weird being the Same Age as Old People

Never allow your "need" to make money to exceed your "desire" to provide quality service.....The Magicman

YellowHammer

I had a LT15, it cuts super flat it's either the scale or log stress or both.

As said, make sure you use the hardwood scale. Set the auxiliary pointer on the dial to your next drop including band kerf.

The clicks should be exact, when in doubt, take a disposable cant and touch in the end with the running band and make a shallow scratch kerf cut and back out, drop a couple, few notches and do it again and again then check the kerf notches with a ruler so you'll have confidence the drops are correct.  This eliminates any effects of stress on the cuts and shows the true drop distances.
YellowHammerisms:

Take steps to save steps.

If it won't roll, its not a log; it's still a tree.  Sawmills cut logs, not trees.

Kiln drying wood: When the cookies are burned, they're burned, and you can't fix them.

Sawing is fun for the first couple million boards.

Be smarter than the sawdust

mainiac1

Thank you for the quick replies. Will order a hardwood scale and measure some cuts on junk log to see how accurate they are.

Percy

 

 

We have a 30 year lease on 40 acres here and the company that we formed to deal with lease stuff is called  "THICK AND THIN LUMBER CO. INC."
I made this sign back in 2006 for the gate leading to our mills.....We came up with the idea same as you because of the nature of our lumber... :D :D :D
GOLDEN RULE : The guy with the gold, makes the rules.

Kingcha

Lt 15 came with a permanent scale that measure off the bed.  That is all I use but it does require so simple math.   I make up charts and laminate them.
It really helps when your sawing your logs into cants.

 


  

 
Matt 
a Wood-mizer LT15 10hp Electric, 45hp Kioti tractor, electric smoker, wood-fired brick oven & yes a custom built Solar Kiln

caveman

When I learned how to use the wheel, I did not use the magnetic scales much at all.  We would ensure that the wheel scale was dead on for the measurement that it showed (1" on the scale would produce a 1" board).  The wheel scale moves the head 2" for each revolution.  The inch marks and half inch marks on the wheel are longer than the others and divide the wheel into fourths so If you want to open at 10 1/2" (figuring 1/8" kerf) to saw 2" slabs and have a 2" on the bottom you know that 10 1/2" will be at the 3 or 9 position on the wheel if I remember correctly.  It has been several months since I have used one.

Once you get the hang of it and the mill is set up just right you can name your mill consistent and predictable sawmill.

Where at in Florida are you?  
Caveman

Woodpecker52

Easy to cut if you square the cant then just drop the head by clicks, on the LT15 start it is one rev. is one inch , so a inch cut is one rev. plus 2 notches.  I have a couple of painted magnets that before I drop it I mark where I am going.  As for wavy cut.  Need to level the bed and head to the bed as per manual if not you cuts will be off.  Also need to adjust log stops if they are off you will be cutting funny angles.  I usually cut the first then flip it 180 and make the next cut and raise it 2 notches and watch as I pull it back for any problems in ht. variations.  Usually something minor, most of the time it is a dull blade and head speed, I automated my feedworks. So I will push it next and see if that solves it usually does.  Sometimes the log is just a bogger bear and no matter what you do it acts up.  Those usually become beams or firewood.
Woodmizer LT-15, Ross Pony #1 planner, Ford 2600 tractor, Stihl chainsaws, Kubota rtv900 Kubota L3830F tractor

mainiac1

Quote from: caveman on June 08, 2019, 03:44:56 PM
When I learned how to use the wheel, I did not use the magnetic scales much at all.  We would ensure that the wheel scale was dead on for the measurement that it showed (1" on the scale would produce a 1" board).  The wheel scale moves the head 2" for each revolution.  The inch marks and half inch marks on the wheel are longer than the others and divide the wheel into fourths so If you want to open at 10 1/2" (figuring 1/8" kerf) to saw 2" slabs and have a 2" on the bottom you know that 10 1/2" will be at the 3 or 9 position on the wheel if I remember correctly.  It has been several months since I have used one.

Once you get the hang of it and the mill is set up just right you can name your mill consistent and predictable sawmill.

Where at in Florida are you?  
panhandle of FL...LA they call it for "Lower Alabama" :)

YellowHammer

It will be easier and eliminates variable if you don't continue the cut through the cant for this experiment, simply bring the running band to the leading edge and score it, then back out, make your drop, score it again, etc.  then turn everything off and get a ruler and start measuring.  I think you will find the gear drop system is very accurate.

If you continue to saw out the cant, then you introduce lots more variables and at this point, trying to get confidence in the system, it's best not to bring them into the mix.  

YellowHammerisms:

Take steps to save steps.

If it won't roll, its not a log; it's still a tree.  Sawmills cut logs, not trees.

Kiln drying wood: When the cookies are burned, they're burned, and you can't fix them.

Sawing is fun for the first couple million boards.

Be smarter than the sawdust

WV Sawmiller

   Which part of the panhandle? I grew up in Escambia Co. about 40 miles north of Pensacola and about 5 miles below the Ala line. We've got some other FF members in/near that area.
Howard Green
WM LT35HDG25(2015) , 2011 4WD F150 Ford Lariat PU, Kawasaki 650 ATV, Stihl 440 Chainsaw, homemade logging arch (w/custom built rear log dolly), JD 750 w/4' wide Bushhog brand FEL

Dad always said "You can shear a sheep a bunch of times but you can only skin him once

PC-Urban-Sawyer

I'm in Panama City (or what's left of it after Hurricane Michael...)

Herb

Barney67

EZ Boardwalk 40 Mahindra 5570

gdaddy01

I am in Altha , Marianna . not much left up here either . maybe never get it all cleaned up , but we will do all we can .

offrink

I made my own gauge. A magnetic strip that is white on one side. I measured the width I wanted, including the kerf, and kept that measurement down the strip. I have strips for finished 1", 1 1/2", 2", and 3" boards. Easy to switch and makes counting clicks a non issue. 

WDH

I got pretty good with the wheel on the LT15. 
Woodmizer LT40HDD35, John Deere 2155, Kubota M5-111, Kubota L2501, Nyle L53 Dehumidification Kiln, and a passion for all things with leafs, twigs, and bark.  hamsleyhardwood.com

sideburnz

I got an LT15  few months ago so I'm pretty green too, and I had some of the same struggles.  Here's what's been helping me:

1:  Even though my mill was new, I wasn't the one who assembled it so I started from scratch and went through the whole alignment procedure in the manual.  I found a few things that were a bit off, and that helped some.  Given your mill is 5 years old, and it's also been moved I think this would be a good place to start.  It helped me get to know the mill a lot better too.

2: I started flipping my cant 180 degrees with each cut, and paying close attention to keeping the center of the log in the center of the cant.  This is a bit more work, but has helped my boards come out much flatter.

3: Use sharp blades.  I still have a hard time telling when my blades are getting too dull, but I've started taking a "when in doubt change the blade" approach. Every time I put on a new blade I can't believe how much better my mill cuts.

4: Cut a bunch of wood you're not counting on for a project.  I just started cutting a bunch of 2x4s for practice.  The practice helped a lot, and pretty soon I was getting a lot of nice boards.  Everyone can find a use for 2x4s sooner or later.  Use the bad ones where you can get away with it, and firewood you don't have to split!

5:  I had to get over the fact that some trees just don't want to be boards.  If I'm cutting a cant and every board is coming off banana shaped I stop and move on to the next log.

Hope a little perspective from someone almost as new as you helps!

Matt
Woodmizer LT15, Ford 4500 TLB, Husqvarna 450, 435, T435

Potter, Tilemaker, Goat, Mud and Stick farmer

Ljohnsaw

Quote from: sideburnz on June 18, 2019, 10:20:15 AM5: I had to get over the fact that some trees just don't want to be boards. If I'm cutting a cant and every board is coming off banana shaped I stop and move on to the next log.

+1 on that!  I had a whole, nice looking pine that didn't want to be lumber!  It became a bunch of "log" benches.
John Sawicky

Just North-East of Sacramento...

SkyTrak 9038, Ford 545D FEL, Davis Little Monster backhoe, Case 16+4 Trencher, Home Built 42" capacity/36" cut Bandmill up to 54' long - using it all to build a timber frame cabin.

mainiac1

Thanks Matt...some good advice. I have found a few things that have helped. 2 guide roller bolts on the vertical mast were bent. probly did not effect the cuts much as when your pushing the saw through the cut the slack is taken out, but it did bother me and I replaced the bolts. I was cutting some 2x4's the other night and noticed they were coming out not square..kinda like trapazoids but parallel...not sure what the object name is for that. re-squared my log stops yesterday...they were out of square 1/16" in like 8"...haven't tried the mill yet though cause I had to go pick up some more pine to cut fence boards out of and was dark when I got them off the trailer.
Had trouble starting saw since I first started using it...not getting gas...after checking the fuel pump and verifying cam lobes were good, bypassed the fuel tank quick disconnect...that solved the problem. Got both sides to the QD on order now.
Finally had a chance to try out the log arch yesterday I built on my trailer too and it worked great! Battery only lasted 5 out of the 6 logs I pulled onto it. Now I gotta rig up a rear pulley on the trailer to haul the logs off...Right now I just tie a chain to them that I have anchored to a stump and drive forward to drag em off.
anyone got a pulley system to drag the logs off a trailer? besides a tractor :)

How can you log in via a cell phone to post pics on here..would like to share both my log arch and my portable mill winch I added.
btw...I live in Niceville...surprised to see several mills close by to me. Again, thanks for the helpful suggestions.

petefrom bearswamp

Been close to 20 years now and I still make some thick and thin lumber even with accuset 2
Mostly do to inattention on the sawyers part. 
Kubota 8540 tractor, FEL bucket and forks, Farmi winch
Kubota 900 RTV
Polaris 570 Sportsman ATV
3 Huskies 1 gas Echo 1 cordless Echo vintage Homelite super xl12
57 acres of woodland

richhiway

Use a speed square and mark off your boards on the face of the cant. This gives you a visible reference until you get used to your scale. 

Align the mill. There are you tube vids and it's in the manual. Does not take long and is easier then it looks.

Make sure you have the blade tension and drive belt tension correct. If the drive belt slips and the blade slows down it will not cut true.

Use sharp blades with the right angle for your mill. Depending how much you are cutting change the blade every 2 to 4 hrs or if you think it is getting dull.

If you change your blades before they are totally dull they will last longer and sharpen easier. Dull blades cause heat and stress the blade.

 
Woodmizer LT 40
New Holland 35 hp tractor
Stihl Chainsaws
Ford 340 Backhoe

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