Woodmizer Power Strip

ncsawyer · January 30, 2016, 07:38:29 PM

I was out on a mobile job today and noticed that my hydraulics wouldn't work if the carriage was all the way at the front of the mill. There was about a 6 inch section of the power strip that was not making good contact. You can see in the pictures below where the current was arcing. It looks like somebody tried to weld on it. I adjusted the contacts and it seems to be operating correctly now.

The power strip looks like it has some kind of coating on it that was burnt off where it was not making good contact. Does anyone know what kind of metal that strip is made out of?

Kbeitz · January 30, 2016, 07:48:58 PM

I'm just guessing ... My guess is copper or copper coated.
Does anyone use noalox electrical grease on there strip or would it do more harm than good
by attracting saw dust?

WV Sawmiller · January 30, 2016, 07:56:16 PM

NC,

Mine looks the same and I had several go-rounds with it doing exactly what you describe. Finally the WM electrician told me firmly to tighten the contacts. I thought I had done so properly before but I did what he said and it has worked perfectly ever since. I had also tried sanding the bottom for better ground and coated everything with di-electric grease. The fix was tightening the contacts. During my investigation I was told the strip is solid copper.

Good luck.

ncsawyer · January 30, 2016, 08:06:32 PM

Quote from: WV Sawmiller on January 30, 2016, 07:56:16 PM
NC,

Mine looks the same and I had several go-rounds with it doing exactly what you describe. Finally the WM electrician told me firmly to tighten the contacts. I thought I had done so properly before but I did what he said and it has worked perfectly ever since. I had also tried sanding the bottom for better ground and coated everything with di-electric grease. The fix was tightening the contacts. During my investigation I was told the strip is solid copper.

Good luck.

Thanks for the info. On mine there is a black bracket that holds the contacts. That bracket is attached with two carriage bolts. I was able to loosen those bolts and slide that bracket closer toward the power strip. The actual contacts have springs on them to insure there is always positive pressure pushing them against the power strip.

Dave Shepard · January 30, 2016, 08:22:59 PM

I use a Scotchbrite pad to shine the strip. Always wait for the head to stop before you use the hydraulics.

Brucer · January 30, 2016, 10:20:27 PM

I took one off another guy's machine (because it was too burnt too polish in place). It's made of solid copper, with no coating. The surface will oxidize wherever the brass shoe doesn't make solid contact.

To repeat what Dave said, a little more forcefully, do not operate the hydraulics while the carriage is moving. Ever.

Running the hydraulic motor while the carriage is moving will cause arcing, which creates those burn marks you see in the photo. Once a part of the strip is burnt, every time you run the hydraulics at that spot, there's extra resistance. That causes extra heat, which causes more burning, etc.

Beavertooth · January 30, 2016, 10:57:18 PM

I have a LT70 with a 6ft extension with a powerstrip on each end of the mill and also on out on the 6ft extension. I have a 20 log deck hooked into the mill. I ran it for over 2 years like this and would always run my hydraulics pulling logs forward on the deck while cutting the log already on the mill. Thus running hydraulics while sawhead moving and I never had any problems with it burning the strip. You do have to keep it adjusted where it has the right pressure on it.

4x4American · January 30, 2016, 11:13:51 PM

Quote from: Dave Shepard on January 30, 2016, 08:22:59 PM
I use a Scotchbrite pad to shine the strip. Always wait for the head to stop before you use the hydraulics.

I have a hard time with that...I like to be lifting the head while bringing it back, opening the idle side guide roller, lifting the log stops and lifting the loader arms all at the same time...sometimes I use my feet. :D

but seriously..

I am impatient :D

WV Sawmiller · January 30, 2016, 11:18:22 PM

Quote from: 4x4American on January 30, 2016, 11:13:51 PM
Quote from: Dave Shepard on January 30, 2016, 08:22:59 PM
I use a Scotchbrite pad to shine the strip. Always wait for the head to stop before you use the hydraulics.

I have a hard time with that...I like to be lifting the head while bringing it back, opening the idle side guide roller, lifting the log stops and lifting the loader arms all at the same time...sometimes I use my feet. :D

but seriously..

I am impatient :D

X2 >:(

scully · January 31, 2016, 12:29:29 AM

I have the remote command . Didn't talke me long to figure out that some welding lead run down the rail and through the cat track would be a way better set up . no more power strip ! I now load with the head at the other end . I also turn with the head at the other end . And my tail man loves me .................

Ga Mtn Man · January 31, 2016, 07:52:42 AM

There are thousands of applications that use sliding contacts for high-current connections. Keep your strip clean and the contact tight and you should be able to get away with running the hydraulics while the head is moving with no problems. I think the arcing tends to happen at the front of the strip because that area doesn't get "wiped" as much as the rest of the strip.

terrifictimbersllc · January 31, 2016, 08:01:05 AM

Quote from: 4x4American on January 30, 2016, 11:13:51 PM
Quote from: Dave Shepard on January 30, 2016, 08:22:59 PM
I use a Scotchbrite pad to shine the strip. Always wait for the head to stop before you use the hydraulics.

I have a hard time with that...I like to be lifting the head while bringing it back, opening the idle side guide roller, lifting the log stops and lifting the loader arms all at the same time...sometimes I use my feet. :D

but seriously..

I am impatient :D

Maybe you need the hydraulics anywhere modification. I have it. I've lowered the backstops an inch ahead of the moving blade once or twice.

Seaman · January 31, 2016, 08:06:55 AM

I cannot help you with your question, however, I added the extra battery to run the HD, very easy mod and I use it all the time. The truck charges the batt while towing, and it has never gone low during a saw day.
Frank

Magicman · January 31, 2016, 08:51:59 AM

If you insist on using the hydraulics while the sawhead is in motion, just be aware that you are causing arcing which will degrade the contact strip and contact button. Some systems are designed for movement and some are not. Using any system beyond the manufacturer's recommendation is always at your own risk.

Chuck White · January 31, 2016, 08:55:51 AM

I agree 100%, don't run the hydraulics while the sawhead is moving.

No matter how tight the contact button is, you will still get some arcing!

Ga Mtn Man · January 31, 2016, 09:16:22 AM

Yes, always follow manufacturer's recommendations. Using any system beyond the manufacturer's recommendation is done at your own risk.

Dave Shepard · January 31, 2016, 09:34:55 AM

I think the voltages and maybe even AC vs. DC has a lot to do with how well a traveling connection would work. I used to work at a shop that had a 480v 3 phase traveling bridge crane. It was powered in every direction, so had x and y axis power strips.

4x4American · January 31, 2016, 10:10:54 AM

Ttlc I really do need to do the hydraulics anywhere mod. And I need to make dragback fingers. Once I get some time its
gonna happen I have the welding lead already

Bandmill Bandit · January 31, 2016, 12:41:12 PM

I did the hydraulics anywhere mod on my mill 2 ish years ago. the pics are in the usefull sawmill mods thread. I wouldn't want to be with out it. I still have my original strip in place and I don't generally use the hydraulics while the head is in motion.

I have found that doing a good wire brush job on the lower rail where the ground plate slides is just as important as cleaning the copper strip. Di electric grease helps a lot. A well applied thin coat so as not to leave clumps works best. This way saw dust generally dissipates when I blow the mill off with the leaf blower.

Kbeitz · January 31, 2016, 04:36:42 PM

I don't have one so I don't know but could your guys put more than one set of
sliding contacts on the carriage ? Seems like that would help a lot.

Magicman · January 31, 2016, 04:48:29 PM

I have never found the contact strip as designed to be any problem.

Bandmill Bandit · January 31, 2016, 06:30:24 PM

Quote from: Kbeitz on January 31, 2016, 04:36:42 PM
I don't have one so I don't know but could your guys put more than one set of
sliding contacts on the carriage ? Seems like that would help a lot.

Not a bad idea BUT it would double the maintenance so I just have the cleaning process as part of my routine quarterly in the shop work over. I have not had any problems with this method.

Kbeitz · January 31, 2016, 07:05:12 PM

Quote from: Bandmill Bandit on January 31, 2016, 06:30:24 PM
Quote from: Kbeitz on January 31, 2016, 04:36:42 PM
I don't have one so I don't know but could your guys put more than one set of
sliding contacts on the carriage ? Seems like that would help a lot.

Not a bad idea BUT it would double the maintenance so I just have the cleaning process as part of my routine quarterly in the shop work over. I have not had any problems with this method.

More contact area = less arcing.

Dave Shepard · January 31, 2016, 07:12:30 PM

I will have been running my mill eight years in April, since it was new. I have only had to clean the strip once, and that was because I was not stopping the head first. Seven and a half years and counting with no maintenance since I found out what was causing the arcing.