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Air Drying Black Walnut

Started by Gregfarley100, November 16, 2015, 12:40:10 AM

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Gregfarley100

Hey guys I'm new to the site but appreciate all the topics and info i have found so far.
I am a woodworker and recently got a  sawmill. I got a black walnut tree from a friend who had one fall in their woods. Anyway I'm going to cut it up and stack it just wondering if there is anything specific to black walnut that i should look out for as to be successful throughout the process. Also if anyone knows of any good books on air drying hardwoods?
Thanks a lot!

beenthere

Welcome to the Forestry Forum.

Google "drying hardwood lumber" and you will get some good hits.
Here are a couple three ...
http://extension.missouri.edu/p/G5550

http://www.fpl.fs.fed.us/documnts/fplgtr/fplgtr118.pdf

http://www.fpl.fs.fed.us/documnts/fplgtr/fplgtr117.pdf

http://forum.norwoodsawmills.com/lumber-drying/air-drying-lumber

https://extension.purdue.edu/extmedia/FNR/FNR-37.html

Click your forum name and you will go to where you can update your profile with your location. It will help answer your questions and just be good to know you better.

south central Wisconsin
It may be that my sole purpose in life is simply to serve as a warning to others

Gregfarley100

thanks a lot for the links! I changed my profile as well I'm in upstate NY!
thanks a lot again for the help!

beenthere

The links were not meant to close the door on you, as we'd like to hear more about your new mill and your projects as you go along..  Pull up a stump, so to speak. 
south central Wisconsin
It may be that my sole purpose in life is simply to serve as a warning to others

GeneWengert-WoodDoc

Black walnut, especially 6/4 and thicker, likes to end check severely.  Use two coats of premium end coating properly applied.
Gene - Author of articles in Sawmill & Woodlot and books: Drying Hardwood Lumber; VA Tech Solar Kiln; Sawing Edging & Trimming Hardwood Lumber. And more

Gregfarley100

Quote from: GeneWengert-WoodDoc on November 16, 2015, 09:56:14 PM
Black walnut, especially 6/4 and thicker, likes to end check severely.  Use two coats of premium end coating properly applied.

thanks a lot, is there any end coating you could recommend?

Quote from: beenthere on November 16, 2015, 01:44:24 PM
The links were not meant to close the door on you, as we'd like to hear more about your new mill and your projects as you go along..  Pull up a stump, so to speak.

Hey no problem i don't mind pulling up a stump but yeah the links are really awesome been doing a lot of reading lol trying to learn up!
I use a cooks portable sawmill. Its been great so far.
Today i cut up some old pine logs laying around to be 1 foot off the ground and about 4ft long and spaced them 3ft apart. I cut all my walnut boards to 5/4 and used 1 inch stickers. All those boards are around 9- 10 ft. i got a pretty good pile out of the three 10ft logs. I put some tin roofing over them and weighed it down. But i want to put a second coating on those ends now but i aint sure if the paint i used for the one coat was even good so i might need to put two new coats, of some stuff that maybe you or Gene can suggest.
Anyways thats where I'm at with that pile. Next up i have some white oak i want to cut and stack as well. I read  that they are prone to surface checks but not sure why.Trying to think of ways to prevent that. Anyways thats where I'm at!   Thanks again for all the input real glad i found this site.


GeneWengert-WoodDoc

Almost every person uses Anchorseal 2 from UC Coatings.  Homemade products, like old paint, do not work as well.  The cost of Anchorseal is about $4 per 1000 BF.  This product evaporates around 130 F so there is no harmful (to processing) residue after drying.
Gene - Author of articles in Sawmill & Woodlot and books: Drying Hardwood Lumber; VA Tech Solar Kiln; Sawing Edging & Trimming Hardwood Lumber. And more

YellowHammer

Anchorseal. Buy the 5 gallon bucket and "slather" it on as soon as you buck the logs.
YellowHammerisms:

Take steps to save steps.

If it won't roll, its not a log; it's still a tree.  Sawmills cut logs, not trees.

Kiln drying wood: When the cookies are burned, they're burned, and you can't fix them.

Sawing is fun for the first couple million boards.

Be smarter than the sawdust

WDH

Paint is not useless as an end sealer, just close.  Get the anchorseal. 
Woodmizer LT40HDD35, John Deere 2155, Kubota M5-111, Kubota L2501, Nyle L53 Dehumidification Kiln, and a passion for all things with leafs, twigs, and bark.  hamsleyhardwood.com

Gregfarley100

Hey guys got it! I found a store on the anchorseal uc coatings site  not too far from me who carry it so I'm going to go there and get it tom. and seal up those ends. Thanks a lot again, i really appreciate it!

Dough_baker

Using knowledge learnt from here, I try to air dry black walnut for one year in Shanghai, the result is good for me. Although some crackings caused by stress, most timber is of high quality.

According to Prof. Wengert's advice, sealing end section 2 coats of ancholseal is very effective, I normally brush once on log end, and the second coat after sawmilling.

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