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Anyone running the new Wood-Mizer 7 degree bands?

Started by Dave Shepard, April 23, 2009, 05:58:52 PM

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Dave Shepard

I have a box of 9° .045" bands that I'll never use. I was thinking of sending them back and trying the new 7° bands. Do they come in an .055", or just the .045"?
Wood-Mizer LT40HDD51-WR Wireless, Kubota L48, Honda Rincon 650, TJ208 G-S, and a 60"LogRite!

MartyParsons

.045 and .055  1 1/4 and 1 1/2

Works well in White Pine, Spruce    Hard to Medium hard types of wood.
"A pessimist sees difficulty in every opportunity; an optimist sees opportunity in every difficulty." -Winston Churchill

Bibbyman

I'd like to try them.  But we've not been able to beg, steal or borrow any.  

Why won't you use the 9°?  They work for us.  ;)

Wood-Mizer LT40HDE25 Super 25hp 3ph with Command Control and Accuset.
Sawing since '94

Papa1stuff

I just got a box of 7degree ,but have not tried them yet ,Next week and will report !
1987 PB Grader with forks added to bucket
2--2008 455 Rancher Husky
WM CBN Sharpener & Setter

Dave Shepard

I couldn't get the 9's to saw straight at all. Maybe if they were .055? I'd like something that did better in pine, I saw a lot of it. I think the new gullet on the 7 would help with the pine sawdust.
Wood-Mizer LT40HDD51-WR Wireless, Kubota L48, Honda Rincon 650, TJ208 G-S, and a 60"LogRite!

ladylake

  Dave  Maybe you should jump right to 4* for your tough wood, I've been running 4* for quite a while now sawing white oak, ash and dry pine with real good results with a 1-1/4  7/8   .42 blade. I got the bright idea to sharpen a few at 7* a little while ago, it's back at 4* again.  Also plenty of set and clean blades.   Steve
Timberking B20  18000  hours +  Case75xt grapple + forks+8" snow bucket + dirt bucket   770 Oliver   Lots(too many) of chainsaws, Like the Echo saws and the Stihl and Husky     W5  Case loader   1  trailers  Wright sharpener     Suffolk  setter Volvo MCT125c skid loader

bandmiller2

Dave, who sharpenes your bands?are you looking for a bigger deeper gullet??I know with my Cooks cats claw sharpener its no trick to change the gullet shape with different cams.I feel a little guilty my partner orders the bands from mizer not even sure what degree they are ,they work ,and the grinder is set up for them.Strange but I use the cam for a Simonds 3/4 band on a mizer 7/8" 1 1/2 band followes the gullet perfectly.If I want a deeper gullet I use a timberwolf cam,almost unlimited options.Frank C.
A man armed with common sense is packing a big piece

NMFP

I have been using a modified blade at 7* for almost 2 years now and they have proven to be very good.  Excellent sawing in hemlock, white pine, spruce, larch and even Maples.  I only saw with 7* or 4* and there hasnt been anything so far that I havent been able to saw successfully.  The 7* is very good at chip removal and I can also typically run longer on a band than a 9-10*.

The Wood-Mizer 7* bands are excellent!

Bibbyman

Welcome to the Forum? 

Tell us more.. We're writing a book here...  :P  ;)
Wood-Mizer LT40HDE25 Super 25hp 3ph with Command Control and Accuset.
Sawing since '94

Larry

If I had known you wanted some of those 7 degree bands so bad I would have given ya some out of the box I picked up at Arkies.

I can tell ya this...they make the boards fly off the log.  About like a hot knife cutting butter. ;D ;D
Larry, making useful and beautiful things out of the most environmental friendly material on the planet.

We need to insure our customers understand the importance of our craft.

Bibbyman

I didn't hear the anouncement that you were giving them away else I'd been first in line.  :)
Wood-Mizer LT40HDE25 Super 25hp 3ph with Command Control and Accuset.
Sawing since '94

Dave Shepard

We send all of our bands to Re-Sharp. I run 4's for some woods, like white oak or black locust. Just wondering it the 7 with the new gullet shape might work over a broader spectrum. I run 10's for most woods. They work fairly well for pine, if I can keep the sap off 'em. :D
Wood-Mizer LT40HDD51-WR Wireless, Kubota L48, Honda Rincon 650, TJ208 G-S, and a 60"LogRite!

Brucer

I tried the 7 degree, 1-1/2", .045 blades in some wide, dry timbers where the 10 degree blades were useless. The 7 degree blades worked perfectly. I couldn't be bothered to change the blade back when I had to do some resawing of greener wood, and they worked fine with that, too.
Bruce    LT40HDG28 bandsaw
"Complex problems have simple, easy to understand wrong answers."

karl

We just tried a few on our resaw.
Best blade we've used in hemrock, lookin' fwd to trying em in pine, they do seem to cut longer and faster.
Hopefully my sharp guy can keep 'em that way. ' Else I may have to send em to WM.....
"I ask for wisdom and strength, Not to be superior to my brothers, but to be able to fight my greatest enemy, myself"  - from Ojibwa Prayer.

woodmills1

I got approx 3 boxes with my new(used) sawmill.  they are 14 degree.  Any advice?

11 are still new.  What are they good for?  or do I have to run them throught the sharpener first?
James Mills,Lovely wife,collect old tools,vacuuming fool,36 bdft/hr,oak paper cutter,ebonic yooper rapper nauga seller, Blue Ox? its not fast, 2 cat family, LT70,edger, 375 bd ft/hr, we like Bob,free heat,no oil 12 years,big splitter, baked stuffed lobster, still cuttin the logs dere IAM

ladylake


  I've sharpened new blades from 10 to 4* a few times, most time I try to use the new 10* blades in easy to saw wood.   Steve
Timberking B20  18000  hours +  Case75xt grapple + forks+8" snow bucket + dirt bucket   770 Oliver   Lots(too many) of chainsaws, Like the Echo saws and the Stihl and Husky     W5  Case loader   1  trailers  Wright sharpener     Suffolk  setter Volvo MCT125c skid loader

Engineer

Lately my sawing has consisted of wet red pine, very dry sugar maple, dry white pine, and a cherry tree that went from vertical tree to boards in less than 30 minutes.  I used the 4-degreee blades on all of it.  They give a rougher cut than maybe most people would like, but a pass through the planer takes care of that anyway.  The rough cut also seems to diminish sticker stain - maybe less contact area on the boards?

I have some older 9 degree bands and I am going to have all of them re-sharpened to 4.

Bibbyman

Awesome!

We ordered a box of 7° blades when we were at the show at the Cape a couple of weeks back.  Today was the first day we got one out and sunk it's teeth into wood.  When I first started cutting,  I pushed the blade quite hard just to see what it would take.  It took it.  I did slow down a bit just because it was pulling down the motor a bit more than I'm use to.  But after sawing out 12 6x8 x 14' beams and about 400 bf of 4/4 oak lumber,  it's still cutting fast and straight. 

The white oak  top logs were fresh cut but did have some awful large knots.

The 7° blade may become our blade of choice.  8)
Wood-Mizer LT40HDE25 Super 25hp 3ph with Command Control and Accuset.
Sawing since '94

Dave Shepard

That's good to hear. What thickness? I've been running .055 bands, but they told me to try some .045 7s. I know your electric has more power than our 51 diesel.
Wood-Mizer LT40HDD51-WR Wireless, Kubota L48, Honda Rincon 650, TJ208 G-S, and a 60"LogRite!

Bibbyman

Quote from: Dave Shepard on July 10, 2009, 06:13:16 PM
That's good to hear. What thickness? I've been running .055 bands, but they told me to try some .045 7s. I know your electric has more power than our 51 diesel.

We're running .045.  I feel we get longer blade life out of .045.  But the .055s really cut through them hard knots! 

More power?  Maybe about the same.
Wood-Mizer LT40HDE25 Super 25hp 3ph with Command Control and Accuset.
Sawing since '94

moonhill

What impact does HP have on the degree of the tooth?  I have a 28hp Kubota on my mill and if I try anything but 10° it gets ugly.  This leads me to believe the lower powered saws don't handle 4° or 7° well.  Any thoughts?

Tim
This is a test, please stand by...

bandmiller2

Dave,have you checked the set on those 9's you have I find it hard to believe 2 degrees would make that much differance,their could be outher factors.With the LT-70 electric we use 10 degree .055 woodmizers on everything no problems.Frank C.
A man armed with common sense is packing a big piece

Bibbyman

Quote from: moonhill on July 11, 2009, 06:45:20 AM
What impact does HP have on the degree of the tooth?  I have a 28hp Kubota on my mill and if I try anything but 10° it gets ugly.  This leads me to believe the lower powered saws don't handle 4° or 7° well.  Any thoughts?

Tim

Double check your main belt tension.  If your engine does not pull down and you're not getting good cuts, it well could be your belt is slipping and you're not keeping up the blade speed. 

I think the 7° blade may have a deeper gullet and maybe a bit more set.
Wood-Mizer LT40HDE25 Super 25hp 3ph with Command Control and Accuset.
Sawing since '94

P.A. RESHARP

Here at Resharp, there has been a lot of people that have tried the 7* blade. Out of all of them people, all but 1 has switched to the 7*. It does take some horsepower to pull it. But Dave with the 51 horse, you are in good shape, with a 055 or 045. You do tend to get a little more life out of the 045, because of the flexability.

Larry

Granted it takes more horsepower to maintain your feed speed with the 7 degree bands...you will have to see if the trade off is worth it.

I was sawing 29" wide walnut crotch slabs with the WM 7 degree couple of weeks ago...with only 16 horsepower on that mill over to your left.
Larry, making useful and beautiful things out of the most environmental friendly material on the planet.

We need to insure our customers understand the importance of our craft.

moonhill

Bibbyman, you have a point there with the belts slipping, I have had that issue before.  I have always used the same blades for 15 years, I should try the WM 7° band.  How does one get them, contact WM?  What is the source?  Maybe I am missing something in band technology.

Tim
This is a test, please stand by...

LeeB

Look on the left side of the page where the sponser list is and click on the Wood-Mizer Blades logo.
'98 LT40HDD/Lombardini, Case 580L, Cat D4C, JD 3032 tractor, JD 5410 tractor, Husky 346, 372 and 562XP's. Stihl MS180 and MS361, 1998 and 2006 3/4 Ton 5.9 Cummins 4x4's, 1989 Dodge D100 w/ 318, and a 1966 Chevy C60 w/ dump bed.

ladylake

 Moonhill  Have you tried anything but 10*? I don't understand it get ugly real fast, are you running out of power, cutting crooked or what.  I'm running 4* hook with a 28hp Isuzu sawing white oak and ash and can cut straight at way higher rate of feed than with a 10* blade. In white oak I've put on a brand new 10* blade cutting kind of slow and it cut crooked on the 1st cut, took that same blade off and sharpened at 4* and cut straight at a good feed rate 1/2" below the first cut. I'm a believer in less hook thanks to someone on here a while back.   Steve
Timberking B20  18000  hours +  Case75xt grapple + forks+8" snow bucket + dirt bucket   770 Oliver   Lots(too many) of chainsaws, Like the Echo saws and the Stihl and Husky     W5  Case loader   1  trailers  Wright sharpener     Suffolk  setter Volvo MCT125c skid loader

moonhill

The saw grunts and I get a rise in the cut, it has a bow across the board/cant, it's not flat, this was with a 7° hook.  I have to use 10° to get a good cut. This is in wide pine, 15"-20".   Band speed could be part of the issue?  I have been told to increase the size of the drive pulley on the engine, this will make the blade faster.  I will have to try a new band from WM as a control. 

Tim 
This is a test, please stand by...

Bibbyman

Another thing to check is the RPMs of the motor.  They tend to slow down with age.  A couple of hundred RPMs off the top will make a lot of difference in the peak horse power.
Wood-Mizer LT40HDE25 Super 25hp 3ph with Command Control and Accuset.
Sawing since '94

moonhill

Every once in a while my throttle set will slip down and I hear the RPM's dropping and set it back up to speed.  I think I saw a calculator here on the forum for ideal band speed, all things considered, wheel size, pulley size, engine speed, maybe it was on another site?  I would have to dig to find my engine speed. 

I visited WM's site and listened to the fellow in blue explaining the bands available, he sounded very knowledgeable, I couldn't help wondering if he had a teleprompter.

Tim
This is a test, please stand by...

ladylake

 Tim   I'm wondering if maybe your running your band speed is too fast if your running out of power with a 28 hp Kubota. I'm running the same pulley with my 28 hp Isuzu (around 3100 rpm) as I did with my 27 hp Kohler (3600 rpm).  I have too cut pretty fast with a 4* blade to make the Isuzu slow down and it cuts nice and straight unlees I slow it down quite a bit, with the Kohler it was always lugging and didn't cut near as straight.   Steve
Timberking B20  18000  hours +  Case75xt grapple + forks+8" snow bucket + dirt bucket   770 Oliver   Lots(too many) of chainsaws, Like the Echo saws and the Stihl and Husky     W5  Case loader   1  trailers  Wright sharpener     Suffolk  setter Volvo MCT125c skid loader

moonhill

Steve what size is your drive pulley?  Mine is around 4", from memory.

Tim
This is a test, please stand by...

ladylake

  Tim  I'll measure the drive and driven on Thur , mill is out on a job right now.   Steve
Timberking B20  18000  hours +  Case75xt grapple + forks+8" snow bucket + dirt bucket   770 Oliver   Lots(too many) of chainsaws, Like the Echo saws and the Stihl and Husky     W5  Case loader   1  trailers  Wright sharpener     Suffolk  setter Volvo MCT125c skid loader

Dave Shepard

There is more than the degree of hook that separates the different bands. The gullets are also much different. The 4s have a much deeper gullet than the 10s for instance.
Wood-Mizer LT40HDD51-WR Wireless, Kubota L48, Honda Rincon 650, TJ208 G-S, and a 60"LogRite!

pineywoods

Quote from: Dave Shepard on July 15, 2009, 04:18:51 PM
There is more than the degree of hook that separates the different bands. The gullets are also much different. The 4s have a much deeper gullet than the 10s for instance.

My experience says the gullet is just as important, maybe even more important than the hook angle. I made up some 15 degree blades from a 12 degree with the same gullet as the 12. They cut well, but on any log over 12 inches the gullets couldn't handle the extra sawdust, too much left in the kerf.
1995 Wood Mizer LT 40, Liquid cooled kawasaki,homebuilt hydraulics. Homebuilt solar dry kiln.  Woodmaster 718 planner, Kubota M4700 with homemade forks and winch, stihl  028, 029, Ms390
100k bd ft club.Charter member of The Grumpy old Men

Bibbyman

I'm really liking these 7° blades.    8)

Late last week we got an order for 200 3x4 by 8' blocking from one company and 40 6x6 by 4' from another.  We had accumulated a small mountain of cull cants, 6x6s, 6x8s,  8x8s and 7x9 ties.  I started dumping these on the deck and we went through them making all the 3x4s and 6x6s we could out of this otherwise junk.  Some of the cants and beams had been around for a year and were plenty dry. 

It took us a good part of the weekend to go through and make all of these pieces parts.  But it was worth it as it was a "Win, Win, Win" situation.  One,  we didn't saw up any logs.  Two, we used up what was otherwise junk, and three,  we reduced out junk cant pile by 3/4s. 

Anyway,  I don't think the 9° blade would have sawn these hard cants nearly as fast or held up as long as the 7° blade.
Wood-Mizer LT40HDE25 Super 25hp 3ph with Command Control and Accuset.
Sawing since '94

Larry

I've sharpened bands to 7 degrees for maybe 5 years or so...where they really shine is in half froze logs.

WM has done something different with there 7 degree bands...bigger gullet or something and they out perform the bands I sharpen.  I think they really have a winner...at least so far...I'll know for sure when it gets cold.
Larry, making useful and beautiful things out of the most environmental friendly material on the planet.

We need to insure our customers understand the importance of our craft.

ladylake

When I sharpen my 10* blades to 4* the gullet is the same(I had to modify my sharpener a little to make the sharpener follow the 10* gullet when sharpening at 4*) yet as I mentioned before the 4* blades cut way better the a new 10* blade in tough wood.  Steve
Timberking B20  18000  hours +  Case75xt grapple + forks+8" snow bucket + dirt bucket   770 Oliver   Lots(too many) of chainsaws, Like the Echo saws and the Stihl and Husky     W5  Case loader   1  trailers  Wright sharpener     Suffolk  setter Volvo MCT125c skid loader

John_Haylow

I had a chance to try the 7 degree blades I purchased at Wood-Mizer the last time I was down. I had to resaw 12 6x8 Pine timbers that I cut two years ago, two knotty pine logs 24" x 8' and two cherry logs 13'' x 8'. the pine was all cut into 1" and the cherry was cut into 1 1/2". The blade still seemed to cut well at the end.

The 28HP FI Kohler seemed to handle the new blades well. I am looking forward to testing them again.

John
2004 Wood-Mizer LT40HDG28

WoodButcher

Quote from: Bibbyman on July 09, 2009, 09:57:47 PM
Awesome!

We ordered a box of 7° blades when we were at the show at the Cape a couple of weeks back.  Today was the first day we got one out and sunk it's teeth into wood.  When I first started cutting,  I pushed the blade quite hard just to see what it would take.  It took it.  I did slow down a bit just because it was pulling down the motor a bit more than I'm use to.  But after sawing out 12 6x8 x 14' beams and about 400 bf of 4/4 oak lumber,  it's still cutting fast and straight. 

The white oak  top logs were fresh cut but did have some awful large knots.

The 7° blade may become our blade of choice.  8)



Hey Bibbyman, I  have made the 7°. blade my choice from now untill I'm shown something better. I run a manual mill and I'm making more lumber than ever. Nice straight, hard and soft lumber and lot's of it, I love'm
H&W Custom Cut Lumber
Ph# 980-721-7954
10800 Waxhaw Hwy,
Waxhaw NC 28173
LM2000/23 cutting up to 31" x 23'L
http://woodbutchernc.tripod.com/index.html
http://thelumberworksforums.com/index.php
http://www.facebook.com/pages/Waxhaw-NC/HW-Custom-Cut-Lumber/137083101526

ladylake

Quote from: WoodButcher on August 02, 2009, 10:48:32 AM
Quote from: Bibbyman on July 09, 2009, 09:57:47 PM
Awesome!

We ordered a box of 7° blades when we were at the show at the Cape a couple of weeks back.  Today was the first day we got one out and sunk it's teeth into wood.  When I first started cutting,  I pushed the blade quite hard just to see what it would take.  It took it.  I did slow down a bit just because it was pulling down the motor a bit more than I'm use to.  But after sawing out 12 6x8 x 14' beams and about 400 bf of 4/4 oak lumber,  it's still cutting fast and straight. 

The white oak  top logs were fresh cut but did have some awful large knots.

The 7° blade may become our blade of choice.  8)



Hey Bibbyman, I  have made the 7°. blade my choice from now untill I'm shown something better. I run a manual mill and I'm making more lumber than ever. Nice straight, hard and soft lumber and lot's of it, I love'm

Good to hear that they work good, it never hurts to try something new.  Is this a push along mill, does it push hardrer with the 7* blade?
Timberking B20  18000  hours +  Case75xt grapple + forks+8" snow bucket + dirt bucket   770 Oliver   Lots(too many) of chainsaws, Like the Echo saws and the Stihl and Husky     W5  Case loader   1  trailers  Wright sharpener     Suffolk  setter Volvo MCT125c skid loader

Bibbyman

The only thing negative I can say about the 7° blades may come from Mary.  When I'm sawing with the 7° blades,  I can "pour it on her" and she just can't keep up.  I try to help by pulling flitches and putting them on the edger infeed table and pulling boards that don't need to be edged.   But I notice after a bit,  her little face is awful red so I slow down or find a reason to stop for awhile.  She's even taken over the mill a time or two. 

The only other bad thing to say about them is;  we've ran through the box we have and have them bundled up for Re-Sharp.  It'll be a while before we can start cutting with them again.
Wood-Mizer LT40HDE25 Super 25hp 3ph with Command Control and Accuset.
Sawing since '94

ladylake

Quote from: Bibbyman on August 02, 2009, 02:34:52 PM
The only thing negative I can say about the 7° blades may come from Mary.  When I'm sawing with the 7° blades,  I can "pour it on her" and she just can't keep up.  I try to help by pulling flitches and putting them on the edger infeed table and pulling boards that don't need to be edged.   But I notice after a bit,  her little face is awful red so I slow down or find a reason to stop for awhile.  She's even taken over the mill a time or two. 

The only other bad thing to say about them is;  we've ran through the box we have and have them bundled up for Re-Sharp.  It'll be a while before we can start cutting with them again.

  Bibby    Time for another box I think.     Steve
Timberking B20  18000  hours +  Case75xt grapple + forks+8" snow bucket + dirt bucket   770 Oliver   Lots(too many) of chainsaws, Like the Echo saws and the Stihl and Husky     W5  Case loader   1  trailers  Wright sharpener     Suffolk  setter Volvo MCT125c skid loader

Bibbyman

Quote from: ladylake on August 02, 2009, 02:51:04 PM
Quote from: Bibbyman on August 02, 2009, 02:34:52 PM
The only thing negative I can say about the 7° blades may come from Mary.  When I'm sawing with the 7° blades,  I can "pour it on her" and she just can't keep up.  I try to help by pulling flitches and putting them on the edger infeed table and pulling boards that don't need to be edged.   But I notice after a bit,  her little face is awful red so I slow down or find a reason to stop for awhile.  She's even taken over the mill a time or two. 

The only other bad thing to say about them is;  we've ran through the box we have and have them bundled up for Re-Sharp.  It'll be a while before we can start cutting with them again.

  Bibby    Time for another box I think.     Steve

We got a hundred or so 9° blades to use up first.  It'll probably be next year before we will start phasing in the 7°s.
Wood-Mizer LT40HDE25 Super 25hp 3ph with Command Control and Accuset.
Sawing since '94

ladylake

Will Resharp change your 9's to 7, I sharpen mine from 10 to 4* on the first sharpening.    Steve
Timberking B20  18000  hours +  Case75xt grapple + forks+8" snow bucket + dirt bucket   770 Oliver   Lots(too many) of chainsaws, Like the Echo saws and the Stihl and Husky     W5  Case loader   1  trailers  Wright sharpener     Suffolk  setter Volvo MCT125c skid loader

Bibbyman

Quote from: ladylake on August 02, 2009, 04:18:38 PM
Will Resharp change your 9's to 7, I sharpen mine from 10 to 4* on the first sharpening.    Steve

Good question.  smiley_headscratch
Wood-Mizer LT40HDE25 Super 25hp 3ph with Command Control and Accuset.
Sawing since '94

arj

They changed some 10s to 9 for me no problem
                 arj

WoodButcher

Quote from: ladylake on August 02, 2009, 04:18:38 PM
Will Resharp change your 9's to 7, I sharpen mine from 10 to 4* on the first sharpening.    Steve

Hi All, my resharrp guy made all of my bands 7 deg. They can do it and it works well so far. These bands are it. I use Joel Weston in Tenn. When my bands come back, they look like brand new blades. He rolls, sets and sharpens my bands for $6.00ea. Here's a link to his site. He does a fine job. ;D  Hi Ladylake, the mill doesn't push any harder, as a matter of fact, the blade almost helps pull the sawhead thru the log. I really don't think I have to push as hard as before. ;D

http://www.logs2lumber.com/Blade%20Sharpening.htm
H&W Custom Cut Lumber
Ph# 980-721-7954
10800 Waxhaw Hwy,
Waxhaw NC 28173
LM2000/23 cutting up to 31" x 23'L
http://woodbutchernc.tripod.com/index.html
http://thelumberworksforums.com/index.php
http://www.facebook.com/pages/Waxhaw-NC/HW-Custom-Cut-Lumber/137083101526

tyb525

I just got a box of 7s. I've only been able to try them on Beech, but they seem to work lots better than the 10's I was using. Nice clean straight cut, I don't have to push any harder.
LT10G10, Stihl 038 Magnum, many woodworking tools. Currently a farm service applicator, trying to find time to saw!

ladylake

 In theory the 9 or 10 degree blades should push easier, I'm thinking the 7's stay sharp longer.   Steve
Timberking B20  18000  hours +  Case75xt grapple + forks+8" snow bucket + dirt bucket   770 Oliver   Lots(too many) of chainsaws, Like the Echo saws and the Stihl and Husky     W5  Case loader   1  trailers  Wright sharpener     Suffolk  setter Volvo MCT125c skid loader

True North

We just got the 7's in .045.

We sawed some hard maple, and they have worked better than any blades we have used yet. I think it may become our blade of choice too.

Bibbyman

Makes a body wonder...  What took them so long?

I wonder too if the 9° blade would work better with a deeper gullet.
Wood-Mizer LT40HDE25 Super 25hp 3ph with Command Control and Accuset.
Sawing since '94

Fla._Deadheader


On wide cuts, we used a couple WM blades along with the Munks.

  I sharpened them with the same rounded gullet as the Munks, and they cut fine. I believe a deeper gullet than WM is necessary to drag most of the sawdust out of the cut.
All truth passes through three stages:
   First, it is ridiculed;
   Second, it is violently opposed; and
   Third, it is accepted as self-evident.

-- Arthur Schopenhauer (1788-1860)

Bibbyman

We sent our 7° degree blades off to Re-Sharp and got them back.  Once we ran through the box of 9° blades we switched back to the 7°s.  They saw a lot better – natch.. 

But the other day we were sawing red oak.  It was a good mix of fresh, dry, big, dirty and some big knotty.  We ran one 7° degree blade thought them all.  I expect we had sawn a 1,000 board feet with that blade and it was still doing fine. 

I had an order for a fireplace mantel out of walnut.  I had a very dry walnut log to make it from.  I suspect it had been standing dead until the sap had fluffed off.  It had been on our lot for at least a year.  I thought about changing the blade but figured I should at least try slabbing it down with the blade on the mill.  (Nothing makes me madder than hitting metal first thing after putting on a sharp blade.)  I was surprised that the blade continued to cut very well.  I finished sawing out the 6x12 mantel.

The next day we had about 40 cedar logs to square down to 6x6s and make whatever lumber off the sides.  I continued to use the 7° blade.  It did just fine.  Cut true and fast as I wanted to push it.  I kept son Gabe on the run offbearing and edging. We sawed the 40 6x6s and made about 200 bf of side lumber.

After that we worked on an order for oak 1x6s by 12'.  I picked out some white oak top logs about 12" in diameter that had been in the pile for a good long time. They were hard and dry with lots of small knots and a few large ones.  I sawed the first one using the same blade just to push it to some point of cutting bad or something.  It was starting to slow and I had to kind of push it but it still sawed straight and true.

I figured that was enough and replaced the blade.

Sometimes you just get a blade that just keeps on cutting.  ::)
Wood-Mizer LT40HDE25 Super 25hp 3ph with Command Control and Accuset.
Sawing since '94

Toolman

Quote from: ladylake on April 24, 2009, 06:52:30 AM
  Dave  Maybe you should jump right to 4* for your tough wood, I've been running 4* for quite a while now sawing white oak, ash and dry pine with real good results with a 1-1/4  7/8   .42 blade. I got the bright idea to sharpen a few at 7* a little while ago, it's back at 4* again.  Also plenty of set and clean blades.   Steve

Ladylake,

How much set do you use?
"A government big enough to give you everything you want, is strong enough to take everything you have" (Thomas Jefferson)

ladylake

 I use the eyeball method, just a little more than what my new blades have and set every 2nd or 3rd sharpening. On dry pine I use a lot of set, seems like the only way to cut straight in that wood with a lot of stringy fibers.    Steve
Timberking B20  18000  hours +  Case75xt grapple + forks+8" snow bucket + dirt bucket   770 Oliver   Lots(too many) of chainsaws, Like the Echo saws and the Stihl and Husky     W5  Case loader   1  trailers  Wright sharpener     Suffolk  setter Volvo MCT125c skid loader

Mo

Thank all of you for your responces. The history of the 7 degree blade is lenghty so I'll not go in to it here.
The key thing about the 7 is that we made the tooth taller and we lessened the back angle to make a crisper tip to the tooth which in turn deepend the gullet to carry away the saw dust.
If you ever have any blade questions feel free to give me a call.
Gary Moore
Wood-mizer Blade Sales
1-800-522-5760 ext. 1610
Again thank you all for the feed back.    Bibby, be easy on Mary.  ;D

ladylake

I don't believe it has much to do with the gullet, just the hook angle. When I sharpen my new 10* blades to 4* the gullet stay just about the same, it's maybe 3 or 4 thousands deeper at best and those 4* blades sure saw a lot straighter in tough wood. Thers's no way sawing white oak that the gullet is getting to full, maybe in soft pine sawing really fast but there the old 10* blade works just fine even with the shallower gullet.   Steve
Timberking B20  18000  hours +  Case75xt grapple + forks+8" snow bucket + dirt bucket   770 Oliver   Lots(too many) of chainsaws, Like the Echo saws and the Stihl and Husky     W5  Case loader   1  trailers  Wright sharpener     Suffolk  setter Volvo MCT125c skid loader

Toolman

Just called WM inquiring about these blades. They are sending me 1 4 deg and 1 7 deg. at half price to try out. I wanna try each one out before committing to a whole box. They were very helpful. I of course left them know I received info through the Forum and thanked them for their sponsorship.

I have some dry Black Oak that I'm gonna be tackling in a few weeks. I was considering going with the Lennox Bi-metal 10 deg. , but the expense of those blades makes me cringe.
Lennox does'nt make a blade with less than a 10 deg. hook. According to Lennox dealer I talked to, he said grinding the 10's to a 7 would take away too much of the temper in the tooth. He actually recommended me to WM. They supposedly are the only ones who manufacter a 4 and 7 blade.
"A government big enough to give you everything you want, is strong enough to take everything you have" (Thomas Jefferson)

customdave

Hi everyone, would you say the gullet is cosiderably deeper on the 7 deg blade compared to the 10 deg, I haven't seen a new 7 deg blade yet , but reading this I'm thinking I should be ordering a box or 2...4, sounds like they are going to become quite popular.


                                            Dave
Love the smell of sawdust

Dave Shepard

I've got a box of .045 9s that I'm going to send back for 7s. My only question is should I get .045s or .055s?
Wood-Mizer LT40HDD51-WR Wireless, Kubota L48, Honda Rincon 650, TJ208 G-S, and a 60"LogRite!

Bibbyman

Quote from: Dave Shepard on September 20, 2009, 08:23:39 AM
I've got a box of .045 9s that I'm going to send back for 7s. My only question is should I get .045s or .055s?

Get a box of each.  ;D
Wood-Mizer LT40HDE25 Super 25hp 3ph with Command Control and Accuset.
Sawing since '94

tyb525

The thinner the band, the less hp needed to spin it and the longer the blade life.

I've also read that the thicker bands can cut straighter in difficult wood.
LT10G10, Stihl 038 Magnum, many woodworking tools. Currently a farm service applicator, trying to find time to saw!

jpgreen

Anyone try these on the west coast? Most of what I mill is doug fir and pines, white, ponderosa, sugar.

I've be sharpening my blades at 13drgs, and that has been about optimum so far. 7 drgrers may not work so well for our trees.
-95 Wood-Mizer LT40HD 27 Hp Kawasaki water cooled engine-

gmmills

     I've been using the 7 deg blades all summer. They work get in all varying densities of hardwoods that I saw. Did a little comparison between  10 deg and the 7 deg in green red oak. I feel that the 7 deg blade can be fed as fast as a 10 deg and also remove more sawdust in wider cuts. The deeper gullet does help. I also feel that the 7 deg blade will last longer in the cut between sharpenings than a 10 deg.

      Been sawing white oak for the last 2 weeks. The logs ranged from green to extremely seasoned,dry. The 7 deg blade did a real good job in the green to slightly seasoned logs. Had to switch to 4 deg to saw the really dry logs. These logs had been in the yard since last Feb. The sap wood was on the verg of being rotten. I'd say the toughest logs I've sawn all year.

       The 7 deg gullets are deeper than the 10 deg blades. The 7 deg blade's gullet is near 19/64" deep compared to the 10 deg depth of 1/4".  Easy to see if compared side by side. 

       
Custom sawing full-time since 2000. 
WM LT70D62 Remote with Accuset
Sawing since 1995

customdave

Thats very interesting gmmills, Thanks











                                           Dave
Love the smell of sawdust

Larry

First time yesterday sawing cedar all day with the 7°.  14 small dirty logs and 500 board foot.  For my mill, that is probably a record run time for cedar. 

I did feel like it left way to much sawdust on the board.  Last night I re-sharpened the blade but did not set.  I'm sure that took some of the set out.  Got similar run time performance today, without the excess sawdust.  It also fed a tick faster.

Even though I'm a little critical I feel this band is the best made...by far.
Larry, making useful and beautiful things out of the most environmental friendly material on the planet.

We need to insure our customers understand the importance of our craft.

MartyParsons

If you are getting to much sawdust on the cant, you need to increase cutting speed. If hp will not let you do that you need to go to a different hook angle.
I have not had much luck in our area with less than 30+ hp. Any one else use them on lower hp?  I have one customer with a 18 hp and says they work Great. ?
Marty
"A pessimist sees difficulty in every opportunity; an optimist sees opportunity in every difficulty." -Winston Churchill

Bodger

Allow me to hit this subject one more time...If I order the 7's will I have to order a new cam to sharpen?
Work's fine for killing time but it's a shaky way to make a living.

Brucer

Quote from: Bodger on November 19, 2009, 07:42:46 AM
Allow me to hit this subject one more time...If I order the 7's will I have to order a new cam to sharpen?
My sharpening guy says "no".
Bruce    LT40HDG28 bandsaw
"Complex problems have simple, easy to understand wrong answers."

gmmills

     No need to buy a new cam if you have a WM 10/30 cam. Just change the sharpener head angle to 7 deg and use the 10/30 cam. Should follow the profile properly. At this time, WM doesn't offer a 7 deg cam. They do offer a 7 deg angle template for sharpener head adjustment and recommend using the 10/30 cam.
Custom sawing full-time since 2000. 
WM LT70D62 Remote with Accuset
Sawing since 1995

Bodger

Great, they sent me a couple of 7's and they cut well...most of what I cut (80 - 90%) is SYP.   It's about time to order I think I'll go with the 7's.  I'm not bright enough to try and use two different profiles, my life is complicated enough.  Thanks for the answer.
Work's fine for killing time but it's a shaky way to make a living.

Larry

Few more observations...they work great on froze, half froze, and junk.



And I could also use an extra bucket of horsepower...maybe another 16 would work. ;D

Question for the WM guys...when does Re-Sharp say bands are to narrow to sharpen anymore?  I have a bunch around 1 1/8" with some less.  I re-sharpen myself but they don't seem to run long when they get narrow.

Larry, making useful and beautiful things out of the most environmental friendly material on the planet.

We need to insure our customers understand the importance of our craft.

Bibbyman

Yes,  they will reject them for resharp if they are too narrow.
Wood-Mizer LT40HDE25 Super 25hp 3ph with Command Control and Accuset.
Sawing since '94

woodmills1

I setup my WM sharpener with the 10 degree cam at a 7 degree angle and passed all of the non 7 degree blades I got from bob around 2 times.  I took the time to set the blades first.  I used one yesterday and it cut straight and true on a large pine butt log.  It seemed a little slower than the fresh WM 7 degree that I had to remove due to direct contact with an eye bolt.  I am going to try the resharpened blades on some lumpy knotted pine today.
James Mills,Lovely wife,collect old tools,vacuuming fool,36 bdft/hr,oak paper cutter,ebonic yooper rapper nauga seller, Blue Ox? its not fast, 2 cat family, LT70,edger, 375 bd ft/hr, we like Bob,free heat,no oil 12 years,big splitter, baked stuffed lobster, still cuttin the logs dere IAM

ladylake


  I've had a couple that made it down to 1" before they broke.   Steve
Timberking B20  18000  hours +  Case75xt grapple + forks+8" snow bucket + dirt bucket   770 Oliver   Lots(too many) of chainsaws, Like the Echo saws and the Stihl and Husky     W5  Case loader   1  trailers  Wright sharpener     Suffolk  setter Volvo MCT125c skid loader

jpgreen

How does your eastern pine compare to soft pines back here on the west coast? Different animal all together?
-95 Wood-Mizer LT40HD 27 Hp Kawasaki water cooled engine-

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