WM blade tensioner question

[Jim_Rogers]

I was again milling on site and I put on a blade that I got in trade from a customer who used to have a WM LT40 with no hydraulics.

This blade seemed longer then my regular blades and longer then the other ones I got from him. I don't know where he got his blades but from the label on the box he was not sending them to resharp to get them sharpened.

Anyhow, I tried to tighten up the tension on the blade and I ran out of threads.

I saw this happen once before on another fellow's mill. Some 12 years ago or so.

He put more fluid in his tensioner to get more threads back on his handle for tightening up the blade.

Have any of you ever done this? I haven't.

What fluid do you use?

Do you put it in through the spot where the gauge is? or do you remove the plug behind it?



I was hoping to add some fluid tomorrow so that I could get some threads back on my handle.

I think that I watched the other guy do it. And that he turned his handle way out first then opened up the top, either the plug or the gauge and poured in the fluid. I think he just used transmission fluid but I don't know for sure.
I know it took him several tries to get enough in there to gain back some threads.

Any advice on this subject would be helpful.

Thanks
Jim Rogers

[Bibbyman]

Got you covered.  Follow this link to..... Sawmill maintenance – how to's and tips.

https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php/topic,19439.msg288982.html#msg288982

If it's just one blade, I'd consider putting a heavy washer (or two) between the piston and the wheel bearing block.

[Jim_Rogers]

I never knew about that thread.

I guess I should have done a search first before asking such a question.

Maybe next time I will do that and save you the trouble of telling me where to go! :D

Well that's a mighty fine write up and I completely understand how to do it now.

And I'll gather up the needed tools in the morning and see how I make out.

Thanks for that, Bibbyman.

The FF saves the day again.

Jim Rogers

[Slabs]

The book calls for Dexron III.  I use the plug behind the guage.  If you can rig up a kluge to adapt a pump oiler to add the fluid you will find that the presure from the pump oiler will force the operator piston back against the screw without getting air into the cylinder.

Will post pictures of my kluge but will have to transfer from another computer..

Good luck.

[POSTON WIDEHEAD]

Yep, this has happened to me.... once. I was at the mill without my manuel. I called Woodmizer. Right there on the spot, Michael walked me through it. Now after running the pressure up on my blade, I have about 2 inches of threads left.

Just remember not to "skin up" the stainless shaft when pulling it back with the pliers or vice grips.
I use a syringe I got from Lowes to put the ATF in with. The syringe was made to measure Round-Up with. It has a tube on the end of it that fits right into the ATF hole and will not pump air if filled correctly.

[Magicman]

There are several different threads and each has some extra pointers.  Sparks also has a downloadable WM document.  Search "refill tensioner"

I use one of those zip tube bottles.


 

[Slabs]

Here's my version of the tensioner primer.  The nozzle is made from Acetal plastic (cause that's what I had) and works well as it pushes the piston back without adding air to the system.



 

[Jim_Rogers]

Here is the step I came up with in order to put the oil in my tensioner:



When I opened up the idle wheel cover I didn't see any plug there as was shown in the other thread about how to do it:



So, I took out the plug behind the gauge and filled it there, and that worked for me:



I got back a lot of threads and it seems fine now.

Thanks for all your advice.

I did use a rag around my channel lock pliers to make sure I didn't scar the push rod when I pulled it out.

Jim Rogers

[POSTON WIDEHEAD]

Glad you got it Jim.....we all hate to run out of threads.  8)

[Magicman]

By the threads showing, it appears to be only half full now.

[terrifictimbersllc]

I always wondered what fluid was in it to begin with. ATF is red and the gauge is not full of red fluid. 

By the way unlike the tensioner, the FF will never run out of threads.  :D :D :D

[Magicman]

ATF is red and the gauge is not full of red fluid.

The hydraulic gauge is not filled with ATF or any hydraulic fluid.  It is factory filled and sealed with glycerin, as are all/most gauges designed to measure liquid pressure.

[pnyberg]

I have the same question as Dennis (TerrificTimbers). 

I'm pretty sure the manual says to top off with ATF, but it doesn't seem like ATF is what's in the system initially.  I even ordered a quart of ATF from Wood-Mizer to see if what they sent was clear, but it was red, just like the stuff from my local auto parts supply.

If it's supposed to be filled with glycerin, where does one get glycerin?

--Peter

[eastberkshirecustoms]

What MM is trying to explain is that pressure gauges are filled (and sealed) with glycerin, not the tensioner-they don't share the same fluid at all. Liquid filled gauges help to stabilize the needle and maintain an accurate reading in vibration prone environments.