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HM126 band blade set and maybe switch to circle mill

Started by mitchstockdale, July 24, 2019, 12:52:42 PM

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mitchstockdale

Quote from: RAYAR on July 24, 2019, 10:36:22 PM
What part or area of the province are you in Mitch?
I am from Sussex area.  How about yourself?

RAYAR

Quote from: mitchstockdale on July 25, 2019, 07:34:20 AM
Quote from: RAYAR on July 24, 2019, 10:36:22 PM
What part or area of the province are you in Mitch?
I am from Sussex area.  How about yourself?
I'm in the Moncton/Memramcook area. I occasionally do some milling in the Anagance area.
mobile manual mill (custom build) (mods & additions on-going)
Custom built auto band sharpener (currently under mods)
Husqvarna 50, 61, 254XP (and others)
96 Polaris Sportsman 500
2006 Ranger 4X2 w/cap, manual trans (430,000 Km)

mitchstockdale

Quote from: RAYAR on July 24, 2019, 10:32:25 PM
Quote from: mitchstockdale on July 24, 2019, 03:55:45 PM
Quote from: RAYAR on July 24, 2019, 03:41:14 PM
I also started out with Lennox 10 degree blades. I'm currently awaiting on delivery of Kasco Woodmaxx 7 degree blades. Mine are a custom length and are being made up in Mexico, then delivered to the head office/depot in St. Louis, then forwarded to the Montreal office/depot and sent on to me from there.
How did you order those Kasco's and what was the price tag like...being Canadian Im sure you can share in my frustration of how difficult and expensive it is to get something from the US

The Kasco's I ordered through the Montreal office. Approximately $28 each delivered. Minimum order is 15.

The Lennox ones I ordered last summer were from the NW part of the province, I think maybe St. Leonard. Price was comparable. The fella has a saw sharpening business on the side of his regular job.

Hey rayar,

Did you receive your new blades yet and have you had a chance to try them out?

I called the Kasco folks in Montreal and im looking at 400 delivered for a pack of 15 set at 7deg.

I tried cutting a log last night with a sharp 10 deg and the results were still wavy...so frustrating.

RAYAR

Quote from: mitchstockdale on August 10, 2019, 12:21:24 PM
Hey rayar,

Did you receive your new blades yet and have you had a chance to try them out?

I called the Kasco folks in Montreal and im looking at 400 delivered for a pack of 15 set at 7deg.

I tried cutting a log last night with a sharp 10 deg and the results were still wavy...so frustrating.

I called them a while after my order was due and somehow my order didn't go through, so re-ordered and still waiting on them.
mobile manual mill (custom build) (mods & additions on-going)
Custom built auto band sharpener (currently under mods)
Husqvarna 50, 61, 254XP (and others)
96 Polaris Sportsman 500
2006 Ranger 4X2 w/cap, manual trans (430,000 Km)

mitchstockdale

I took 4 blades to the fella who sharpens my blades in hopes he could grind a 7deg hook angle on them and when i told him about the advice i received on here about running 7 deg blades for spruce he just looked at me funny and said he has 130 small mill customers that he sharpens for and everybody uses 10deg blades with no issue except for a few that cut cedar exclusively.  He is blaming my tension or engine speed. He seems to think 7deg blades are bunk marketing wank...so I dont know what to think about blades now....

I did figure out that I need to change my drive belt since i cant properly set the tracking...wonder if this is causing me my waviness grief.  If changing the belt doesnt resolve the issue guess i will move to replacing bearings.

Madtrapper01

I have the same mill and had the same issue. First thing I did was check the mill to make sure it was actually level, every bunk and rail, then did a measurement at each bunk from the blade to the bunk on the left and right sides and made sure they were equal.
Then what I think the problem was is the ceramic guides, there was too much play allowing the blade to twist. I dropped tip guide down to just barely touch the blade, then brought the bottom up to just barely touch as well. 
Then I looked at the rollers at the back of the guides and they were too far back, so I brought them out so they were about 1-2 mm from the back of the blade. Re-tensioned to the 25 ft lbs and it is sawing pretty well perfect. 
Make sure the guides are not pushing on the blade but so close they almost rub.
I'm using the Lenox blades that I bough from woodland as well, sawing spruce and pine.

thecfarm

I am no expert,but I tried and tried is the word,to cut spruce with 10° blades. Never again. I only saw for me,don't have a lot of spruce,so makes no sense in me getting different blades to saw something I don't have much of.  ;D I can cut pine and hemlock fine,knots and all.
Model 6020-20hp Manual Thomas bandsaw,TC40A 4wd 40 hp New Holland tractor, 450 Norse Winch, Heatmor 400 OWB,YCC 1978-79

ladylake

Quote from: mitchstockdale on August 12, 2019, 12:33:48 PM
I took 4 blades to the fella who sharpens my blades in hopes he could grind a 7deg hook angle on them and when i told him about the advice i received on here about running 7 deg blades for spruce he just looked at me funny and said he has 130 small mill customers that he sharpens for and everybody uses 10deg blades with no issue except for a few that cut cedar exclusively.  He is blaming my tension or engine speed. He seems to think 7deg blades are bunk marketing wank...so I dont know what to think about blades now....

I did figure out that I need to change my drive belt since i cant properly set the tracking...wonder if this is causing me my waviness grief.  If changing the belt doesnt resolve the issue guess i will move to replacing bearings.
Your sharpener guy needs to get educated, a 4° blade cuts spruce WAY straighter than a 10° blade.  Steve
Timberking B20  18000  hours +  Case75xt grapple + forks+8" snow bucket + dirt bucket   770 Oliver   Lots(too many) of chainsaws, Like the Echo saws and the Stihl and Husky     W5  Case loader   1  trailers  Wright sharpener     Suffolk  setter Volvo MCT125c skid loader

mitchstockdale

Quote from: ladylake on August 13, 2019, 12:28:02 PM
Quote from: mitchstockdale on August 12, 2019, 12:33:48 PM
I took 4 blades to the fella who sharpens my blades in hopes he could grind a 7deg hook angle on them and when i told him about the advice i received on here about running 7 deg blades for spruce he just looked at me funny and said he has 130 small mill customers that he sharpens for and everybody uses 10deg blades with no issue except for a few that cut cedar exclusively.  He is blaming my tension or engine speed. He seems to think 7deg blades are bunk marketing wank...so I dont know what to think about blades now....

I did figure out that I need to change my drive belt since i cant properly set the tracking...wonder if this is causing me my waviness grief.  If changing the belt doesnt resolve the issue guess i will move to replacing bearings.
Your sharpener guy needs to get educated, a 4° blade cuts spruce WAY straighter than a 10° blade.  Steve

I believe you...the funny thing he has 35 years experience sharpening literally every blade imaginable.  Used to work for Irving Lumber sharpening their big industrial sawmill blades...i guess if you never see a customer bringing 7deg blades to have sharpened how would he know.  Anyhow i may just have to get my own sharpening gear and start maintaining my own blades since he didnt seem too keen on changing his equipment to sharpen any 7's for me..

  Any recommendations on grinders and setter? Those suckers seem expensive.

mitchstockdale

Quote from: Madtrapper01 on August 13, 2019, 07:48:23 AM
I have the same mill and had the same issue. First thing I did was check the mill to make sure it was actually level, every bunk and rail, then did a measurement at each bunk from the blade to the bunk on the left and right sides and made sure they were equal.
Then what I think the problem was is the ceramic guides, there was too much play allowing the blade to twist. I dropped tip guide down to just barely touch the blade, then brought the bottom up to just barely touch as well.
Then I looked at the rollers at the back of the guides and they were too far back, so I brought them out so they were about 1-2 mm from the back of the blade. Re-tensioned to the 25 ft lbs and it is sawing pretty well perfect.
Make sure the guides are not pushing on the blade but so close they almost rub.
I'm using the Lenox blades that I bough from woodland as well, sawing spruce and pine.

Thanks for the input. I never used to be very fussy with setting the guideblocks and bearings until i started having problems then i started being very picky with the process you describe which helped a bit but not enough to solve the problem....got some new belts today...my follower belt had a fair bit on run out when i rotate the wheel and my drive belt had sunken almost completely down below the edge of the drive wheel so i think I am due for some fresh belts hoping this helps the situation if not looks like i am ordering some blades.

moodnacreek

Sawing spruce is often a problem for circle saws also. In my case I use wider kerf chrome teeth and sharpen often.  What is seldom said here is that the thicker [and wider in bands] the less trouble but trouble never goes away.

RAYAR

Quote from: mitchstockdale on August 10, 2019, 12:21:24 PM

Hey rayar,

Did you receive your new blades yet and have you had a chance to try them out?

I called the Kasco folks in Montreal and im looking at 400 delivered for a pack of 15 set at 7deg.

I tried cutting a log last night with a sharp 10 deg and the results were still wavy...so frustrating.

Quote from: RAYAR on August 10, 2019, 11:14:22 PM
Quote from: mitchstockdale on August 10, 2019, 12:21:24 PM
Hey rayar,

Did you receive your new blades yet and have you had a chance to try them out?

I called the Kasco folks in Montreal and im looking at 400 delivered for a pack of 15 set at 7deg.

I tried cutting a log last night with a sharp 10 deg and the results were still wavy...so frustrating.

I called them a while after my order was due and somehow my order didn't go through, so re-ordered and still waiting on them.



My blades just came in today (Tuesday), picked them up this evening. Looked at the shipping papers and the label on the box and they got the wrong size. Have to try one on the mill tomorrow. I ordered 12'-7" (173 teeth = 151-3/8") They sent me 12'-8" (174 teeth = 152-1/2") @7/8" pitch. My mills' ideal size is 12'-7". My mills' tensioner works on a hinge (Cooks style), not a slide and the 12'-8" is near its' limit.

These Kasco Woodmax blades look great. Will have to call Kasco and find out what's going on.
mobile manual mill (custom build) (mods & additions on-going)
Custom built auto band sharpener (currently under mods)
Husqvarna 50, 61, 254XP (and others)
96 Polaris Sportsman 500
2006 Ranger 4X2 w/cap, manual trans (430,000 Km)

mitchstockdale

Quote from: RAYAR on August 14, 2019, 01:03:09 AM


My blades just came in today (Tuesday), picked them up this evening. Looked at the shipping papers and the label on the box and they got the wrong size. Have to try one on the mill tomorrow. I ordered 12'-7" (173 teeth = 151-3/8") They sent me 12'-8" (174 teeth = 152-1/2") @7/8" pitch. My mills' ideal size is 12'-7". My mills' tensioner works on a hinge (Cooks style), not a slide and the 12'-8" is near its' limit.

These Kasco Woodmax blades look great. Will have to call Kasco and find out what's going on.
oh man thats sucks hopefully they will work for you.  I hope they come good for it and will pay to send them back if they dont work.

RAYAR

Tried one on for fit, it will work, but should add a shim, at least 3/8" thickness for a better set-up. I have a Cooks hinged tension set-up and it's on its' up swing creating more deflection at the blade guide. It's very noticeable.

This will be a few hours work in changing things over and setting things back up.

174 teeth is an ideal size as it keeps its' groups of three teeth instead of missing one at the splice.
mobile manual mill (custom build) (mods & additions on-going)
Custom built auto band sharpener (currently under mods)
Husqvarna 50, 61, 254XP (and others)
96 Polaris Sportsman 500
2006 Ranger 4X2 w/cap, manual trans (430,000 Km)

Crusarius

Can you just add the shim to the hinge? Then it should still work for the other blades you already had.

RAYAR

Quote from: Crusarius on August 14, 2019, 01:35:44 PM
Can you just add the shim to the hinge? Then it should still work for the other blades you already had.

I was thinking of adding it to the driven wheel, but looking it over again, will probably add to the hinge side, I can use two pieces of flat bar instead.
mobile manual mill (custom build) (mods & additions on-going)
Custom built auto band sharpener (currently under mods)
Husqvarna 50, 61, 254XP (and others)
96 Polaris Sportsman 500
2006 Ranger 4X2 w/cap, manual trans (430,000 Km)

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