I need something that I can load logs with. I know someone who has a 1975 Case 990 with FEL that he is considering selling.
He told me that he bought it less than a year ago for a project and no longer has a use for it.
He said he has changed the oil, replaced a rear tire and 1 fuel injector, and that's all he knew was wrong with it.
So, I am swinging by this afternoon to look at it. I will take pics if he will allow it.
I'm sure it's going to look awful, but I couldn't care less as long as it's a fair deal and will move logs.
Any advice would be appreciated!
I don't have any advice but I wish you the very best. I have the worlds ugliest backhoe and an odd looking wheel loader and I am glad for both of them. Good luck! I hope it works out.
Check parts availability. Some of these older tractors are getting hard to fix when broken.
I checked it out, drove it etc and definitely buying it. I took some pics and will upload them tomorrow.
those old 9 are pretty tough i had a neighbor who had one for years good dependable tractor till he bought a dirt pan :o then it took about 3 more years to tear it up ::)
sorry guys got my #s confused his was a 1030 :-[
IIRC the 990 case is actually a dave brown tractor. Decent old tractors, just be careful with the loader as I've seen a few with the front axles and bolsters all busted up because they aren't very heavy duty.
I checked it out yesterday evening and drove it around for a while. Engine sounds good, hydraulics are slow, but work. There is a crack in one of the loading arms, but that could be grinded out and welded back up. I think it may have been used in chicken houses or something like that. The bucket had a divider welded in the middle and has been recently cut out. One of the rear brakes are sticking a little bit, you can hear it screaching when you first pull forward, then it goes away. Heck, the thing is 42 years old. It would be used to ease around the log yard, moving and loading logs, pallets of lumber, etc...That's about it. I realize it will have it's limits, but hoping it would handle close to 2000lbs. That may be asking too much from this small FEL but that is okay with me because of the price. I would have to put a counter weight in the back. Here are a few pics. What do y'all think?
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/33361/tractor1.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1492523048)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/33361/tractor2.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1492523050)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/33361/tractor4.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1492523050)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/33361/tractor3.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1492523051)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/33361/tractor6.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1492523052)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/33361/tractor5.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1492523053)
Does it have power steering? You'll hate turning with a load on front if it doesn't.
If hydraulics are slow, they may not have as much ummph as they should. Could just be a blocked filter or strainer screen. If more than that, it can get expensive.
2000 Lbs may be pushing it. Weight on the rear will help, but the loader doesn't look beefy enough. Axles may take it. Older tractors weren't made for loader work, which is part of why there were industrial versions. This one is probably in the middle where it can handle some loader work, but would give you troubles with frequent heavy use.
Now, 1200-1500Lbs on the loader, I'd be pretty comfy with that.
Yes it has power steering. The hydraulics aren't really slow, just slower than what I expected.
Is the loader plumbed into the tractors hydraulic pump or does it have its own separate pump. If off the tractors pump its going to be slow as its only like a 7gpm pump on its best days. As for lifting 2k lbs that little old girl isn't going to like that much. The loader, hydraulic, front spindles, axle, bolster, and frame just weren't ment for heavy loader work. When that loader was built it probably had a small 4 foot wide bucket on it made for loading manure into a spreader.
I don't think the loader has it's own separate hyd pump. I would need to go over the loader arms and beef up any weak spots. This thing would be a tremendous back/time saver just by having a set of forks to move slabs, lumber, beams, etc...I have been hesitant to saw beams for customers, because of no support equipment. I even considered constructing some sort of I-Beam trolly setup. This would eliminate the need for all of that. It does not come with forks, so I may have to get some made to fit. I have not looked into that yet.
Get that crack fixed before it grows...
That looks like a good starter tractor. I bet it will handle most of what you will saw with a Jr. The bucket ''divider'' was probably just a brace to keep it from bending down in the middle. A set of forks mounted to that loader will move a lot of back breaking piles of stuff!!
PC
Way to go, John. That will help a lot.
Pretty good, economical machines those are....weak spot is the front spindles. Lots have broken and lots are still available so no big deal if you do break one or both. From my understanding the replacements are a better steel so a second failure is rare.
Look that loader over carefully for any other cracks and nip them quick.
That bucket looks like a snow bucket with the center cut out. It won't take much heavy work at all before twisting up. Replacement buckets aren't much for skidsteers. Find them used all day long for not much money and make some mounts up and you're done in a day with a heavy duty bucket ready to go.
Nice machine. Nice sitting position and the tranny is easy to use.
Those are good old tractors, keep the work load within its limits and it will serve you well. Definitely a step in the right direction your back will thank you.
If you put forks on it you would be better off taking the bucket off and mounting them right to the loader arms versus the type that slip on to the bucket. Little bit more work to swap but much better for the tractor.
Good luck with it.
They are a good tractor. Parts are easier to find than they were 20 years ago. Hyds. will be slow. Loader looks like a good match for the tractor. Like others have said front axle will be the weak point. Does it have power beyond for the loader hyds. This will free up remote cylinder hydraulics. There are good folks on Yesterdays Tractors Case / David Brown board to help with any in depth questions. Use it within it's limitations and you will be OK.
Don't get me wrong. Looks to be a good tractor that will save a ton of labor around your mill. Knowing some of the history is worth a ton on an older tractor, so big plus there. If the price is right, I'd buy it!
Just don't plan on 2000 lbs lift & maneuver on the front anyway. Heaviest thing we ever picked up with our 706 IH (similar vintage, but bigger and 70 something HP) was around 2200 Lbs with a 4 row corn head. Picked it up fine, no risk of tipping with fluid in the rear tires, but the front tires were squatting something fierce. Had to pull the trailer out from under and set down there as it would ruin a tire if we moved the tractor. It looks like yours has LT tires though. They will take more pressure if the rims will hold it. Maybe find some industrial style front wheels & tires at a boneyard???
One more thought. Instead of making a set of forks for the loader, you may want to convert it to a skid steer style quick connect then buy/make skid steer style forks. Makes switching much quicker and opens up a range of attachments that can be bought, borrowed, or rented. Plus, when you upgrade to a newer tractor, you will have all your loader accessories to keep and interchange between tractors or sell the old one with bucket like you got it.
Those back tires look new.. you might consider putting ribbed ag tires on the front for better turning traction.. are those fronts tires ag or replaced w/ car tires? You'll love having the loader... after you give it the once over w/ maintenance and minor repairs.. it'll be like an old friend. Nice tractor.
Thanks guys. Binding it on the trailer tomorrow morning as long as it lifts something heavy before loading it. Might chain the bucket to the base of a tree and see if it will lift the back tires off the ground, or do something similiar. But I know someone who has used it recently. He unloaded a small set of discs off a trailer and said it did fine. So I'll probably be pulling it home. It sure will be nice not asking for tractor favors. Things seem to be moving in the right direction for once. I will keep y'all updated.
kensfarm- I think they are just used car tires.
Let the adventures begin :)
I know I haven't addressed all the questions that have been asked. My apologies--it's almost 11pm here and I'm whooped. I hope to be putting around on my new tractor by lunch. The Forestry Forum is a great resource, folks. Good night.
Should make you a pretty good tractor. At least the older ones aren't to bad to work on. Now you will find yourself looking at some implements for it. If you take the bucket off and install forks a blade for the back would be handy. Just get a heavy duty one an put some weight on it for a counter balance. Looks like it has one almost new rear tire and the seat is probably newer. No cracks in the vinyl. Thats important if you ever leave it in the rain. Once the foam gets wet and you set on it then the rest of the day you have a wet butt.
If you leave it out get a tarp or something and cover the shift levers. Rain has a way of getting around them.
Yup, if the shift lever boots are not new, replace them. They are easily found with Google and most are interchangeable.
I loaded it up this morning and brought it home. I've been preoccupied with other things today (my little man) so I haven't had any time to tinker with it. It's still sitting on the trailer. I did notice that fuel is slowly leaking somewhere around the fuel pump. Not exactly sure where yet. Also have a bad seal on the big hyd cylinder on the front center. Thats all i really know at the moment. My boy tripped earlier (4 years old) playing with our chocolate lab and bumped his upper lip pretty good on the top edge of one of those small propane tanks for a gas grill. Made me cringe...I heard the "donnng" sound when he hit it. Poor little dude...He is okay though, as it could have been so much worse. I held him tight, rocking him until he calmed down enough for me to check him out. All I'm expecting is maybe a little bruising. No loose teeth, just a little red mark. So, he's good to go. We're taking a little nap at the moment, so he will be recharged shortly. He almost never walks...always running. You cannot turn your back on him for a second, or buddy, he's getting into Lord knows what. He is so proud of "Daddy's tractor". He already knows that what's mine is also his. So, he looked at me and asked, "my tractor?", and I said "Yes Sir, it's John Parker's and Daddy's tractor". He grinned from ear to ear. Made my day.
Good for you on the tractor! Also my oldest boy just turned 3. I know what you mean there.
Does the fuel leak when shut off or only under pressure? If the former, there may be a shut off valve that will get you by until fixed.
I just checked it (still sitting on trailer) and it's a slow drip. I'll see if there's a cutoff valve. Thank you sir
Just wait till he gets to set on the seat the first time.
Those older diesels have the fuel pump (lots of times called the lift pump or transfer pump) just to get fuel from the tank to the injector pump. Most times they're not even needed since the fuel tank is higher than the injector pump and will gravity feed, plus the pump sucks the fuel quite a ways. They're mainly there for extreme angles on a low fuel level and more constant fuel pressure for the injector pump to stay happy. They are rebuildable for not much money at all. Usually with a diaphragm (I just call it the rubber) and a spring and gasket or similar and sometimes come with the actuating arm or pushrod. Try tightening the screws around the body of the pump. Check the fittings in and out of the pump. Sometimes you have to take them out and put some teflon tape on them and tighten them up so they don't leak next to the pump body. Check the fuel lines in and out at the pump for old, cracked rubber lines and loose clamps. Lots of times a new clamp on an old hose will leak right where the slots are for the worm screw of the hose clamp cause it cracks and tears the old rubber. Also be careful it's not leaking into your engine oil - it'll dilute and fill up too full and cause all sorts of problems. But you'll have shiny engine internals!
I would absolutely recommend at least an owner's manual for maintenance purposes. I'm not sure if your injector pump needs the (separate) oil changed/checked in it or not, like the older Ford tractors did.
A hole/crack in the diaphragm will also cause fuel to be pumped into the crankcase.
I thought I said that. ???
I had about 10 minutes of daylight remaining yesterday afternoon to jump on it and push a few logs around... This thing has been used and abused but I think it is just what I need for what I'll be using it for.
Hopefully I'll have some time this weekend to check everything out better, but bream fishing with my little man has top priority 8)
I definitely need to get new shift lever boots. They aren't too bad, but need replacing.
I was glad to discover that the hyd leak on the center front cylinder isn't coming from the seal, just where the hose connects to the top of the cylinder. If anything gets addressed this weekend, it will be the hyd leak.
I will take some pictures this weekend.
Just before I hauled it home the other day...
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/33361/Case1.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1492782423)
That really is going to be a handy machine. Nice find! I wish I had one just like it.
Quote from: Ox on April 21, 2017, 10:06:06 AM
That really is going to be a handy machine. Nice find! I wish I had one just like it.
It's for sale!!! ;D
:D :-X
The loader arms aren't in the best shape and need some work. I'm going to get this thing rock solid again before lifting anything heavy. I found a set of forks yesterday and will get them made to fit directly onto the loading arms.
For rear weight, a brush hog works good. Most people that have a tractor find they should also have a brush hog as well anyway.
If it sticks out too far on the back, a carryall or blade with weights works well. I've seen people put 3 point connections on a plastic barrel of concrete. I think half barrels of concrete with a rebar loop to pick up with the loader then placed securely in the carry all would be more versatile. Water also works well as long as the barrel is full to prevent sloshing.
Yes sir I am planning on using the barrel/concrete for rear weight. Even a small brush hog is going to be getting in the way.
If you can, make your forks so they fit on the back as well for the things that are too heavy for the front.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/33654/IMG_20170421_115527.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1492794321) I just picked these up for my no name loader. They are made for 3pt but will easily adapt for my front. Not as heavy as fork lift forks but at $100 and two miles from home I feel good about them.
Quote from: Hilltop366 on April 21, 2017, 11:59:41 AM
If you can, make your forks so they fit on the back as well for the things that are too heavy for the front.
Heck yeah, I found 4 forks yesterday in a guy's back yard and I think I can get them for super cheap. It's just the forks with no plate or anything welded to them. So, I can make a separate set if necessary.
Yukon--Nice Find Brother!!!
A heavy duty box blade on the rear for a counterweight is nice as you can use the box blade to drag the sawdust away from the mill when it builds up so high that you cannot walk on it anymore :).
Hmmm...maybe that's the way to do. In fact, I know where there's one sitting nearby. ??? ::)
Smear a wad of grease on top of your boots until you have time to replace.
This will keep the water out...
Kbeitz, I will do that tomorrow. We've got a decent chance of rain tomorrow night. The guy had it under a metal carport type deal, but there's no telling what's all down in there. I'm going to change all the fluids on this thing and replace all the filters and hoses, weld and brace the loader arms, put some forks on the front and weight on the back, and take it from there.
And replace all the grease fittings.
If I only had a Forestry Forum Sticker... :(
Quote from: Deese on April 21, 2017, 10:02:32 PM
If I only had a Forestry Forum Sticker... :(
I think Jeff still sells them
Quote from: Deese on April 21, 2017, 10:01:01 PM
Kbeitz, I will do that tomorrow. We've got a decent chance of rain tomorrow night. The guy had it under a metal carport type deal, but there's no telling what's all down in there. I'm going to change all the fluids on this thing and replace all the filters and hoses, weld and brace the loader arms, put some forks on the front and weight on the back, and take it from there.
This is a VERY good idea and plan. Many of these fluids are neglected and you'll be wondering how it functioned so well with the oils looking so bad. Large chunks of cast iron like the cases on your tractor are good for condensation. A bunch of years of sweating will turn new oil into caramel milk looking crap. Weird thing is, things last a long time this way with no damage to gears or bearings. I've never seen damage from even the nastiest looking oil, just from lack of oil or abuse like jamming and slamming gears and such. The oil is doing its job. Weird, right? I miss the days of tinkering and bringing back to life old tractors. It usually doesn't take much to get them running again, all told.
Quote from: Kbeitz on April 21, 2017, 08:23:43 PM
Smear a wad of grease on top of your boots until you have time to replace.
This will keep the water out...
Also if you have or can get an old inner tube cut a chunk big enough to cover
boot then make a small hole in center with a gasket punch smaller than the shaft
take knobs off and slip rubber over and down. This has worked for me on M Farmall
for years use a tractor tire tube as they are thicker. This is also good to cover hydraulic valves keeps out dirt and keep them dry and rust free pretty good hope
this helps. W.C.W
Potentially very bad news. It looks like I'm about to get in deep with this tractor. Yesterday I made sure all the fluid levels were good and then played around on it moving logs around for about an hour or so...but I think I have a failing head gasket. But that's not all...I checked the oil this morning and it showed about an inch over full. Couldn't smell diesel fuel though..BUT I haven't lost any water or hydraulic fluid other than the leaking fitting. So, I just ran it for another 45 minutes or so and am now letting everything settle for a few hours and then rechecking all fluids. Looks like I will be ordering a manual tomorrow. I could say a lot more here about how I feel about...aww heck nevermind. I've always wanted to learn how to work on an old tractor, so here's my opportunity. HA! :P
Hey Deese
Those were not a bad tractor series. Hydrualics did leaved a bit to be desired and had a few other potential issues IF the service manual procedures and specs got ignored or missed during reassembly.
990/995 are pretty much the same tractor. I could probably tear one one down and put it back together in my sleep. We put just over 14000 hours on the one we had before we retired it for biggar HP.
Mine was a 1975 995 as well. I will check with my Dad and see if the service manual is still in the cupboard in the shop. If it is I will let you know.
Thank You Sir.
Being a 42 year old well used tractor, I fully expected to have issues and they aren't too expensive to work on. I just didn't expect it to be "making oil" as fast as it is. I just checked the oil level and it has risen about another half inch just after 45 minutes of putting around. I'm hoping it doesn't have a cracked head. But it's getting fixed no matter what.
Its blowing oil so I'm going to rebuild the engine...I'll probably end up making this thing like new before it's over with.
Reminds me of that Johnny Cash song "one piece at a time"
I could easily drain some oil and wipe the manifold and exhaust pipe clean and sell it to someone like me who was really in need of a tractor. Breaking even would be almost effortless. In fact, I could profit around $1k if I really cleaned her up. But you know what? That's not how I operate. I probably still would have bought it knowing what I know now. This will be a fun project.
Is the hydraulic fluid dropping about as much as the engine oil is rising? The common mating at the split might be allowing fluid exchange from bad seals. I'm not sure on that machine. Just something to think about that might be causing your oil to rise.
I was thinking it was hyd fluid because I can't smell diesel in the oil. But, the hyd fluid level as not dropped...well maybe a tad because of a hyd leak on a hose connection. I'm gonna fix the hyd leak this week to remove all doubt but I'm thinking it's just gotta be diesel fuel. An injector has been replaced and maybe it wasn't installed correctly. Man I sure dont know..
Quite a few case tractors have a seperate pump for the power steering that ran off the timing gears. They are notorious for leaking into the crankcase.
PC
Getting hydraulic/trans fluid in the engine oil is pretty tough on that model as it has a double dry clutch in a dry bell housing. How ever having said that some of them had a power steering system with a gear driven pump on the front right side if I remember correctly. The seal in that pump was good for about 2500 to 3000 hours and it is not a difficult fix. That is what I would be looking at, BUT you should be noticing some difficulty in the steering. I think it holds about a gallon of fluid once it is right full.
Quote from: Magicman on April 20, 2017, 02:00:12 PM
A hole/crack in the diaphragm will also cause fuel to be pumped into the crankcase.
Don't expect to smell it. Check/replace that primer pump.
The power steering pump is on the left side if sitting in the seat. I will take a pic of it in the morning before work if I remember to...which I wont. It whines a bit when turning but I don't believe the fluid is low. I would bet everything that it's diesel. We WILL find out soon.
Quote from: Magicman on April 23, 2017, 10:03:02 PM
Quote from: Magicman on April 20, 2017, 02:00:12 PM
A hole/crack in the diaphragm will also cause fuel to be pumped into the crankcase.
Don't expect to smell it. Check/replace that primer pump.
im with mm check/change the primer pump that is about the only thing that can fill the engine :) if it diesel the oil will be thin but no smell of diesel if it was water/antifreeze from a head gasket or something the oil would be gray and the power steering pump cant add enough to notice it unless you are constantly adding oil to it :) unless i have forgotten how they are setup i dont think the actual hyd oil can get into the engine on that tractor :)
those lift pumps are a very common problem on every make of tractor i personally have had them bad on ford mf international and a old case tractor the one on the little international tractor went bad while cutting hay and was blowing oil/fuel out the dipstick by lunch :o
the only other thing i know of that can put that much fuel in the oil is the front seal on injector pump had that happen on our 285 mf one time but it is not near as common as as the lift pump :)
You guys are the best. This is a new world to me so I've got much to learn.
I'm not afraid to admit that I did not even know what a lift pump was until I just googled it. Now I know exactly what you are talking about.
Yes, that thing is leaking fuel all around it. A slow drip. The entire side of the tractor is wet with fuel from where it's dripping.
That would be my first thing to replace or fix also. It would take quite a bit of diesel to overcome the smell of oil at least that has been my experience with them. A lot of injector pumps really dont like low fuel pressure either.
With the lift pump always wet with fuel Id say it about a 99% chance its that little pump. I'd just replace it. They were not expensive back in the days of that tractor and not a hard fix either.
I found them online today for under $30.
I'm going to check it out real good tonight and order one tomorrow.
Congratulations on your purchase , these are a great tractor but like all machines they suffer with lack of care, I have a 880 that my Father bought new in 1967 - only things that have been changed are the lift pump and water pump, it could do with a head job and injectors serviced but still starts and runs pretty good. If yours is smoking it could well do with just a good workout, glazed bores, get the lift pump and filters changed, there is a fine gauze filter on the pipe as it goes in to the injection pump which is frequently missed. The main cause of problems on these David Browns is the hydraulic system, it doesnt cope with dirt or water in the oil so do change the filter under the belly of the tractor when you change the oil . There is a very good owners group at dbtc dot com and they have answered just about every question you can imagine.
Ok thank ya sir. I bought 5 gallons of hyd/transmission oil the other day when I got the motor oil.
I'll try ordering the hydraulic filter along with the lift pump tomorrow.
It's got plenty of hyd oil in it now, so I will just wait and change it until I get the filter.
Took these pics this morning.
About to buy one online, along with a hydraulic filter.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/33361/liftpump1.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1493148279)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/33361/liftpump2.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1493148295)
That power steering pump probably has a filter in it too.
PC