Aligning a laser sight

[Gilman]

Are there any tricks/ procedures to aligning the laser sight on the WM'ers?  My mill didn't come with a manual so I've just been poking at the laser with a stick.  So far the stick method doesn't seem to be working.  I thought about going to a hammer next but I thought I'd check with the experts here first.  ;D

[MartyParsons]

Hello,
I always get a cant sawed and then staple 3x5 index cards ( white)  folded onto the cant. You will be able to see the red mark on the cards. Dont be afraid to turn the laser and move it up and down. You will need to loosen the alen screws a little and then when set retighten.
Marty

[sparks]

Gilman, give me your customer number and I'll get you a manual coming.  Thanks

[VA-Sawyer]

Improved 'Poking it with a Stick' Method

Run head to back of mill. setup target as close laser as possible. Raise or lower the laser body as needed , move laser left, right as needed so light hits taget at desired point.

Start moving head towards front of mill. If beam moves off target , adjust laser by changing aim angle, do NOT raise , lower or move side to side to correct drift. Only change the angle.

Return head to rear of mill and again get as close to target as possible. If laser is not in bullseye then raise, lower or move side to side as needed to center target.

Again move head towards front of mill and check for target drift. Repeat as needed.

It might take a couple of passes to get it very fine tuned, but you should see definite improvement with each pass.

The thing to remember is Physically move laser to proper position when against target. Change only the aim angle when laser is at a distance from the target.
VA-Sawyer

[leweee]

  :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D

too funny Dave

[Gilman]

  Thanks for the help. 

I'll put the stick down and dig around in the toolbox for an allen wrench.   ;D

[gmmills]

   Gilman,

      Hope you have some metric allen wrenches in that tool box. I think it's a 2 mm. I'll check tomorrow for sure. I really think you need to put the stick down. :D :D  Not hard to do when you consider that lazer costs around a grand to replace.    A word of caution when tightening the adjusting screws on the mounting ring. The ring is plastic and will break if the screws are tighten too much. I know this from experience. : :

[D._Frederick]

Gilman,

Do you saw at nite or do you have your mill under cover?

[Gilman]

I have the mill currently under fir trees.  Probably still too bright for the laser.

[Slabs]

Though I haven't done it yet, I've studied the alignment problem somewhat and I think that the "radial" alignment might be the place to begin.  That is, Is the laser emitter properly oriented in the radial/circular (twist) axis???  A possible starting point may be to place a target at the far/back end of the mill and assure that the laser line is level with the mill chassis horizontal axis.  A piece of cardboard or something similar and of a light color placed on one of the log supports and indexed with horizontal lines  parallel to the log support as a reference to assure the horizontal alignment with the width of the mill would assure a level starting point.

Then the "tilt" of the laser could be adjusted to align the laser with the  linear axis of the mill.  I believe that the "radial" adjustment is essential because if the laser emitter weren't  level (or oriented to the horizontal axis of the mill) then the "up-down" adjustment wouldn't be effective.  This procedure might best be achieved in the darker periods since the laser has limited effectiveness at longer ranges in bright sunlight.

The laser is mounted in a flexable mount and is subject to misalignment in all axes so consider all of them.

Good luck.

[ElectricAl]

Gilman,

This is how we set our Lazer.  The three targets have marks 12" up from the bed.

[Gilman]

Thanks All,
Today might be a good day to tackle this alignment.  I have been using it, but it is only accurate for checking the cant for square, so I have one of the degrees of freedom correct at least.

The shade from the fir trees works well even at high noon.

[FiremanEd]

Like Marty mentioned.

Saw a square cant, run the mill back to the back of the cant. Set the head height to match the last cut on the squared cant. Now adjust the laser where it is showing the full length of the cant and being split on that perfect straight edge of your cant. You should see a line of red on the side of the cant and still see a little red splashed across the top of the cant. If you get this the full length of the can't than you're perfect.

FYI, for everyone with older lasers, you can send them to the factory (laser factor, not WM) and they can upgrade them from 15(what'ever a laser is rated by) to 30. This doubles the brightness of the laser. It cost's a couple hundred bucks but is worth is if you are sawing full time.

Eddie