Re: INSERT TOOTH SAWBLADES

Bro. Noble · February 19, 2003, 08:10:48 PM

UncleBuck,

Welcome to the forum. We have about a half-dozen guys, maybe more that are very experienced with circle saws. They will want to know what size and style of bits you have in both of your saws. Might even be able to find a source of teeth for the 48 inch.

In the meantime look through the old posts if you havn't already you'll find at least one related topic. We had one recently on inserted teeth.

Ask Jeff if he has any tips on changing teeth.

Noble

chet · February 19, 2003, 08:23:05 PM

Noble dat's a purty low blow, :

teasing Jeff when he's down. ;D

Jeff · February 19, 2003, 08:41:10 PM

I was going to take a picture of my hand all bandaged up and show noble how that even though injured at least one of the fingers works, but the one I wanted to show won't right now. :D

chet · February 19, 2003, 08:48:07 PM

I'll bet he gets da message anyways. :D

Ron Wenrich · February 20, 2003, 02:16:27 PM

You'll be able to use the 52 inch saw, but you will have to move your saw guide and probably your board splitter. There should be adjustments for both of them. If not, you may have to remount them.

To find out what pattern your saw is, look on the shank. There should be either numbers or letters on it. The 2" may be a B or F or 2 1/2 or 3 1/2 pattern.

The Disston is a real antique. They've been out of business for a good 35 years, maybe more. They had numbers like 33 or 66 or maybe even an ABC. They make a real nice sign.

sawmill_john · February 20, 2003, 03:07:53 PM

UncleBuck, before you paint that disston blade determine what pattern tooth and shank fit it, Rons right on the money about the antique part, but I've got some disston shanks and some old disston teeth, There should be a letter and number or two numbers or some thing on the shanks that identify the pattern and gauge of the shank. Let me know, we'll see if we can help you out.

The gauge of the shank would generally follow the pattern for instance B x 8, or B 8
John

UNCLEBUCK · February 20, 2003, 04:39:26 PM

HELLO AND THANKS FOR ALL THE FEEDBACK. I DOUBLE CHECKED THE BLADES TODAY AND THE DISSTON 48 INCH HAS 40 TEETH AND THE SHANKS HAVE A ( c ) STAMPED ON THEM,I HAD THAT BLADE HAMMERED BY RICE BLACKSMITHING IN RICE MN.,A PROFESSIONAL SAW SHOP, FOUND A OLD BUCKET FULL OF TEETH AND WILL PICK THROUGH IT THIS WEEKEND,. I MEASURED THE BIGGER BLADE AND IT IS 50 INCH AND 52 TEETH AND HAS NEW BITS AND SHANKS AND ALSO HAS BEEN HAMMERED TOO 400 R.P.M., I HAVE NOT TRIED THEM OUT YET BUT WHEN WHEN THE SNOW MELTS AROUND THE SAW SHED I WILL BE SAWING EVERYTHING IN SIGHT,I AM NEW TO COMPUTERS AND THIS SITE BUT FEEL RIGHT AT HOME READING EVERYONE ELSES QUESTIONS AND THROUGH THE WEEKEND I WILL KNOW MORE ABOUT SHANKS AND TEETH RIGHT ! THERE MUST BE SOMEONE WITH A BOX OF BRAND NEW DISSTON TEETH OUT THERE SOMEWHERE .THANKS EVERYONE

Fred · February 20, 2003, 04:51:13 PM

I have a Disston 52" never used it because it needed shanks and teeth also..I called ozark machinery they said they had a few boxes but I never got them..thats been several years ago. I used a pacifac hoe 54" F style then sold the mill I do still have a 48" B style..I wonder if a person can get these cut down to a 36" ??

Bro. Noble · February 20, 2003, 06:09:48 PM

Ozark Machinery has a website : www.ozarkmachinery.com You can get their e-mail from their website. I was there Tuesday and could have checked on the bits. They are sure good people to deal with.

Noble

UNCLEBUCK · February 20, 2003, 07:13:52 PM

DOES ANYBODY KNOW IF MY DISSTON SAWBLADE CAN BE RETROFITTED WITH NEW SIMONDS TEETH AND SHANKS, ANY ANSWERS GREATLY APPRECIATED .

UNCLEBUCK · February 20, 2003, 07:23:54 PM

THANKS FRED FOR THE OZARK WEB,JUST SENT A EMAIL TO ASK ABOUT RETROFITTING MY DISSTON SAWBLADE, I REFUSE TO BUY PAINT AND MAKE A SIGN OUT OF IT YET, HAHA, THANKS EVERYBODY,THIS IS GREAT !

crosscut · February 20, 2003, 08:32:04 PM

thanks for that link noble way down here in florida i would prefer dealing with someone closer to me for advice and service help does anyone know of any saw services for hammering ,parts etc closer to my end of the world ??

DanG · February 20, 2003, 09:08:58 PM

CC, there used to be a saw shop in Ocala, that offered all sorts of commercial saw services. I can't remember the name, but they might be worth looking for.

Ron Wenrich · February 21, 2003, 02:55:35 AM

For you guys in the South, you can go right to a saw manufacturer. B H Payne is in East Point, GA. Here's the website: http://www.paynesaws.com/ I've run 2 of their saws, and am well satisfied. They also sell mill supplies and teeth.

Saws can be cut down. They will cut below the original sockets, then recut sockets with a new style shank and tooth. It costs by the tooth.

I'm not sure how cost effective it is. Why throw that much money in an old saw? I've always figured it was cheaper to just buy a new one.

mitch · February 21, 2003, 04:48:23 AM

If you click on this link you will receive free a 5 Meg file from the USDA Forest Service, State and Private Forestry.The booklet is
"Circular Sawmills and Their Efficient Operation" by
Stanford J. Lunstrum.
It has a wealth of information on all aspects of the circular saw mill.

http://www.fpl.fs.fed.us/documnts/misc/circsaw.pdf

UNCLEBUCK · February 21, 2003, 06:22:57 AM

hello from UNCLEBUCK, my disston sawblade has not been used in 35 years and is in great shape but teeth and shanks are impossible to find,can anyone tell me if i can retro fit like simonds brand to make it work. its hammered for 400 r.p.m. with a 100 horse tractor and has 40 teeth ,shanks say ( C ) on them, my 50 inch blade has 52 teeth and new shanks and teeth , just asking if 100 horsepower will be enough, my sawmill is a a.b.farquhar and has corley setworks and a very heavy i-beam framework,just never had time until now to bring it to life, any answers or suggestions greatly appreciated and i look forward to checking the forum every night ,this is a great place,thanks

UNCLEBUCK · February 21, 2003, 06:30:50 AM

I MEAN THANKS NOBLE, THANKS FRED TOO, I WILL GET THE HANG OF THIS YET ! ITS GONNA BE -20 BELOW TEMP TOMORRW ,HMMMMM FINALLY WARMING UP HERE IN MINNESOTA, FROST IS DOWN SO DEEP SEPTIC TANKS ARE FREEZING UP, GLAD I FOUND THE FORUM TO HELP MAKE WINTER GO BY !

Bro. Noble · February 21, 2003, 07:12:23 AM

Unclebuck,

Do a search on Menominee (sp) Saw. It's the one in Michigan. They do work on saws. Ozark Machinery doesn't.

Noble

Don P · February 21, 2003, 01:28:29 PM

Mitch has a good set of links here:

http://shagbarkfarms.com/Sawmill/!saws_info.html

Doug in Utah has a good page you should save also:

http://www.xmission.com/~sherwin/sawyer1.htm

Ron Wenrich · February 21, 2003, 03:43:13 PM

The first mill I ever put in and run was a Fahrquhar. We paid $1000, since it had new wood. It also came with a Disston saw, which we never run, since we couldn't find teeth.

Your 100 hp should be plenty of power. A lot depends on how well you transfer your power to your saw. If you get too much slippage, you can have some problems.

You won't be able to get your saw re-socketed to a newer shank unless you cut it down. Then your saw might be too small to be practical.

mitch · February 21, 2003, 04:24:38 PM

Welcome to the forum UncleBuck:
I agree with Ron. You should have plenty of power. I often saw with a 46" saw with 34 #3 bits. Recently, I sawed 30" to 40" oak with the head saw completely buried (~19") in the log with only a 40 HP GJD. A top saw finished the cut so that I could slice off 24" x 5/4 clear red oak boards. However, it takes sharp bits and good saw/carriage alignment to saw with low power.Some images are at URL
http://www.shagbarkfarms.com/TopSaw/

UNCLEBUCK · February 21, 2003, 07:36:57 PM

thanks mitch, I got pictures i printed out of your set up and they are hanging on the fridge to give me inspiration, it sounds like my old 100 horse farmall will handle what I got to do, am a old johnny popper enthusiast,grew up driving a R,830,H and 620 john deere but figured its good to blow up the farmall ,haha, anyway great pictures you got and thanks ok, i think i found enough disston teeth and shanks, i knew it was a antique blade but had to ask !

UNCLEBUCK · February 22, 2003, 08:50:51 PM

thanks everyone again for all the good answers about my disston sawblade, now my other sawblade is a ATKINS 50 inch 52 tooth, question is can I use this blade for sawing hardwoods ! if i can i will because it looks great, i believe it is a 8/9 gauge and my old disston blade i think is 6/7,just worried that the ATKINS might be too thin, 100 horsepower p.t.o. and 400 r.p.m. and hydraulic feed, last time I sawed a log was with this very same mill and unhammered DISSTON blade with a R john deere and long flat belt and smoke flew and blade started banging and got hung and scared me away for 20 years and now I am trying it again after lots of book reading and problem solving and regained interest in it, one old sawyer at the saw shop told me to slowly increase the hydraulic feed control until I cut nice chips instead of sawdust,look for nice chips ! sounds like good advice ! HELP!

mitch · February 23, 2003, 04:58:08 AM

Hi UncleBuck:
You have done something that I have always wanted to do... hook an 830 JD to an old circular mill. I sawed for about 20 yrs with the predecessor to the 830, a JD W power unit

The old sawyer gave you some good advice "Make saw chips not saw dust". That is good advice provided you have the power to maintain the saw turning at the hammered RPM's. However, in large dead, bone hard white oak logs you may not be able to have each bit taking a 0.11 inch bite! If you have good shanks, they can usually "clean out" the saw dust.
The second commandment for good sawing should be "never force a log through a saw" even if it is the last log at the end of a long days sawing. At the first hint of sawing difficulty STOP and correct the problem... usually sharpen the bits.
Good luck with your sawing venture. Post some images.

UNCLEBUCK · February 23, 2003, 04:26:43 PM

HI MITCH, TOOK ALOT OF PICTURES TODAY WITH NEW DIGICAM, DOWNLOADED FOLLOWING ALL PROCEDURES AND SEEMS EASY BUT CANNOT GET PICS BELOW @ 25K SO I THINK I MUST TAKE NEW ONES AND SET DIGICAM ON 2X OR 4X ZOOM, DONT KNOW WHAT ELSE IT COULD BE ! I REDUCED ORIGINALS FROM @300,000K AND START LOSING QUALITY @35K, ANY HINTS. CLEANED 2 ICE CREAM BUCKETS FULL OF TEETH YESTERDAY AND BUILT A WOODBOX WITH SPACE FOR EVERY KIND OF TOOTH I FOUND AND LEARNED ALOT JUST CLEANING UP TEETH,HAHA