Stain before chinking?

[Fallen Timbers]

I plan to apply an oil based wood stain/treatment to my logs. Should this be done before or after chinking (or does it mater)?
:P

[Jim_Rogers]

welcome to the forum....

[iffy]

I would do it before. If you do it after and you want to preserve the color of the chinking, you will have to mask it or be very careful applying stain.

[ahlkey]

It is best done prior to staining.  Keep in mind that if your logs have any  checks/cracks those should be filled as well on the outside or you can have  problems over time.  On the inside you do not need to chink those cracks & checks but you still need to chink (inside & outside) between the logs.  I did my cabin with 30 oz tubes by hand all alone and it is a very time consuming process.

[Fallen Timbers]

Thanks for the welcome Jim!
Sounds like I should wait to stain the logs until the chinking is done. I hadn't thought about chinking the checked logs on the exterior. We have had over eight inches of rain in the last three weeks and everything is SOGGY. I'm starting to really worry about the logs rotting before I get under roof. Would there be any problem with chinking sticking to treated logs? If things ever dry out I might go ahead and put a coat of stain on the logs that are stacked with the intention of putting another coat on after chinking.
Thanks for the help.

[ahlkey]

I also did a small hunting cabin 10 years ago where I stained the logs right away. I actually did not go back to chink it until two years later until everything had dried and settled but at that point I did put on a second coat.  Actually putting on the second coat 1-2 years later can be better than just a few months apart. I did lay down a foam seal between the logs which surprising kept it pretty tight until I could chink everything.  Everything turned out really nice so I know it possible to do.  

[Fallen Timbers]

Everything turned out really nice so I know it possible to do.  

smiley_clapping

Cool!
Thats what I needed to know.
Thanks!

[iffy]

The vendors that I dealt with did not recommend using chinking for checks in the logs. They recommended log caulk for that. I used Energy Seal from Permachink and like it real well but there are several other manufacturers out there with good products. I cleaned my logs, then sprayed on a borate treatement. After it dried I put on one coat of stain, then caulked all joints and up facing checks. Then another coat of stain and a coat of clear. Mine is not chinked because it is Swedish Cope.

[Fallen Timbers]

Wow
Thats a beauty!
I have heard of borate but I'm not sure what it is. I was going to sand my logs lightly and wash them with deluted bleach water before staining is this sort of the same idea?

[ahlkey]

With my current log home I used "log builder" caulk for the checks/cracks for the same reason that it was recommended by a local log manufacturer but the hunting cabin did pretty well with the chinking material.  I believe the log builder stuff can stretch or compress up to 100% of the original joint size (+/-50%) and stays elastic.  It is a better choice for sure but is expensive.

[Fallen Timbers]

Yup I'm all about the cheapest way to go ahlkey.  ;)
I did a little web surfing and found an article that says the cheap alternative to Borate solution is radiator fluid. It says it kills bugs and fungus just as well. I know this stuff will kill dogs if they drink it so I'm not a big fan of the idea..... anyone every try this?

[iffy]

My logs were gray because it took me a year to stack the walls and get the roof on. I mixed up a 20% solution of household bleach and water and put in a few tablespoons per gal of TSP. Used a garden sprayer to spray it on the logs. Wait 10 minutes, then power wash it off. It is very important that you rinse it thoroughly because if any of the bleach solution is left on it will affect the stain. I then used an Osborn brush in an electric rotary sander to remove the "feathers" produced by the power washing. Then I sprayed it with borate solution and let it dry thoroughly, then stained and caulked. You can adjust the bleach solution upward or downward if need be. You don't want to use any stronger solution than you have to because it does break down the surface layer of cellulite and that is what you are power washing off. The borate solution is available from any supplier that carries log stain. There are some old threads on some log home forums about using ethylene glycol as a substitute for borate. If you want to know what those forums are pm me 'cause I'm not sure how kosher it is to put other forum links on here.

[Fallen Timbers]

Thanks iffy PM sent.