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Log chinking question?

Started by Jim_Rogers, February 04, 2004, 05:53:03 AM

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Jim_Rogers

I recently received this request:

"Do you possibly know anything about chinking to put into a log cabin that is being restored for a historical society.
 
If you know how or where to look for this type of info. please let me know.
 
Thanks
Donald"

I don't personally have any experiences with this.

Can some one help us find some info about this?

Thanks,
Jim Rogers
Whatever you do, have fun doing it!
Woodmizer 1994 LT30HDG24 with 6' Bed Extension

logman

Jim,
   I think it would depend on when the cabin was built.  They
first used wooden wedges as chinking and clay and straw
mixed together for the daubing.  Then, later on when it
became available they used a mortar mix of lime,sand and
cement.  Charles McRaven has a book that has details for
chinking, which I have.  He has done a lot of restorations.
I built a log cabin a few years ago and used his formula
for the chinking mixture (daubing).  I don't have the book
in front of me at this time but I can get it for you.  I think
it was 1 part lime, 2 parts portland cement, and 7 parts sand.
I first nailed hardware cloth in my chink space and put on
a scratch coat and then went back with a cover coat.  I
checked my cabin about 6 months ago,(I sold it a couple
years ago) and the chinking was holding up fine.
LT40HD, 12' ext, 5105 JD tractor, Genie GTH5519 telehandler
M&K Timber Works

ronwood

Jim,

I have a log home that has chinking between the logs. I used a product called perma-chink. Not sure it will work for restoration purposes. Link http://www.permachink.com/

Ron
Sawing part time mostly urban logs -St. Louis/Warrenton, Mo.
LT40HG25 Woodmizer Sawmill
LX885 New Holland Skidsteer

logman

The chinking formula that Charles McRaven uses is 1 part
lime, 2 parts portland cement and 9 parts sand.
LT40HD, 12' ext, 5105 JD tractor, Genie GTH5519 telehandler
M&K Timber Works

Jim_Rogers

Thanks guys, I've passed on the link to this thread to the questioner. Hopefully these answers will help him.
Jim
 (Edit/added)
PS. Donald has told me that the building was built in 1875 and is in need of a few white oak replacement logs. But I don't know where this building is. Hopefully Donald will register and tell us so we can help him find some logs to help in the restoration of this historical building.
Whatever you do, have fun doing it!
Woodmizer 1994 LT30HDG24 with 6' Bed Extension

Jim_Rogers

Donald sent me some photos of the project, but I still don't know what state it is in. If someone would like to see these photos I can send them to you in a private message.
Jim Rogers
Whatever you do, have fun doing it!
Woodmizer 1994 LT30HDG24 with 6' Bed Extension

Ron Scott

During my years with Ihe US Forest Service we restored a few historical log cabins here and there. These were 1800 vintage also, but I don't. know what was used since the arcahologists handled those details.

You might check with your State Historical Preservation Officer (SHPO) or State archaoelogist, or a University archaoelogist. There are archaeolgists that specialize in just building archaeology. We had one working for us here for awhile, then he went to consulting on his own, but then he moved out west.
~Ron

DeCatt

Jim,
     I've done this quite a bit. So far this has passed historical review. Cut 2" styrofoam to backup the chink. Tack it between the logs, fill any gaps with spray foam. Drive nails into logs every 4" to 6" staggering from top to bottom of joint, so they'll be embeded in rough coat.
 Rough Coat,
4 parts sand
1 part masonary cement
1/4 part portland cement
   Use this mix to build up till about 1/4" to 1/2" from finished.
 Finish Coat,
4 parts sand
1 part white cement
1 part hydrated lime
color as desired
 I use 2 1/2 gal. bucket = 1 part and a 12 oz coffee cup of buff color (powdered) to a batch. The finish coat doesn't have a very long working time and doesn't like to be rewetted. Keep the logs wet while chinking or you won't get a good bond. Will get cracks.
Hope this helps, Dennis

L. Wakefield

   I've done the chinking w/ the cement/ mortar mix containing lime. DON'T use your bare hands. It will eat pits in your skin in only a few hours. You won't feel it happening. Get plastic gloves or something.  lw
L. Wakefield, owner and operator of the beastly truck Heretik, that refuses to stay between the lines when parking

Jim_Rogers

Good point about the gloves!
I think I heard that before.
Great advice about the mix.
Thanks.
Jim Rogers
Whatever you do, have fun doing it!
Woodmizer 1994 LT30HDG24 with 6' Bed Extension

Greg@lhoti.com

I have heard of a recipe for chinking that was equal parts water, wood ashes, clay and salt.  I never tried it out, however, but it was suppose to be an old western original.
Greg Steckler

etat

Old Age and Treachery will outperform Youth and Inexperence. The thing is, getting older is starting to be painful.

Greg@lhoti.com

That was it!  Nice recall!  8)
Greg Steckler

etat

Greg twas your idea, I just followed up on it. I also did a  search about how they used frayed rope from ships to make  oakum, much of the labor used was prison labor.  In doing that some how I came across some information about pirates.  It was pretty good reading, you set all that in motion.  Thanks.
Old Age and Treachery will outperform Youth and Inexperence. The thing is, getting older is starting to be painful.

Greg@lhoti.com

Funny you should talk about rope or oakum...........
Just 2 days ago I had a call from a general contractor on a Million dollar log home asking about the 3-4" settling space between the chimney stone work and the ceiling of our flagship log home design, "http://www.logrhythms.com/featuredplan.shtmlThe Willamette".  I suggested he box it in with cedar trim or put up a temporary 3" or 4" anchor rope in that space until it settles in 2-4 years.  It is 18' off the floor and not really noticable but he rightly was trying to think ahead.  We can all applaud that!
Greg Steckler

luke

Jim,

I have rechinked one 1800's log cabin it had rocks in the chink gap, I used mortar over the rocks.  I also removed one 1800's log cabin and it had wooden wedges for the chinking with either mortar and clay mud for chinking material.  It depends on the location of the log cabin, for the materials that would have been readily available for the chinking of the log cabin.

Luke
Checking into grade sawing, building a dry kiln and moulding machines.

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