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retiming injection pump to engine

Started by duckslayingpro, January 12, 2011, 11:13:36 PM

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duckslayingpro

well finally will be getting an injection pump in on friday and be putting on saturday. My question is what is the proper way of timing the pump to the engine. this is a new pump. the engine is a 4239 in a John Deere 440a. The more detail information would be greatly appreciated never done this before and learning as i go.
Thanks for any information

captain_crunch

Try Yesterdays Tractors under JD section someone will have answer
M-14 Belsaw circle mill,HD-11 Log Loader,TD-14 Crawler,TD-9 Crawler and Ford 2910 Loader Tractor

John Woodworth

On the left rear of the motor (left facing front) you will see a little plate held on with a bolt that has a shaft about 2'' long sticking out, this is your timming pin, take the plate off and reverse the pin and stick it into the hole in the block with engine at top dead center carefuly rool engine either direction until the pin drops into the hole on flywheel, this is your top dead center. on your injection pump towards the gear end there is a cover plate about 1x3'' take it off and then line up the timming marks for the pump and then install the pump and you should be set to go.
Two Garret 21 skidders, Garret 10 skidder, 580 Case Backhoe, Mobile Dimension sawmill, 066, 046 mag, 044, 036mag, 034, 056 mag, 075, 026, lewis winch

duckslayingpro

Thanks for all the info so far. I now know how to get the engine to TDC but then how do I know that the injection pump is set to right time? I am assuming the "window" to check the timing on my pump is the triangular shaped cover with the flat screws on it? I know you say to line up the timing marks on the pump what should these timing marks look like and how should then alighn? I am posting a picture so you know what the pump looks like. this is the old messed up pump. Any and all help is greatly appreciated.
Thanks again!

John Woodworth

duckslayingpro: I'll dig out my JD manuals in the morning and print off the page which will probably be the easiest, that rectangular plate on the bottom left should be the window but be careful with the gasket, the timming marks should be the long ones in the center on each side graduated in smaller marks on either side to advance or retard the pump, you should be with both the long marks lined up, I'll post the page out of the manual in the morning and you should have no problems.
Two Garret 21 skidders, Garret 10 skidder, 580 Case Backhoe, Mobile Dimension sawmill, 066, 046 mag, 044, 036mag, 034, 056 mag, 075, 026, lewis winch

duckslayingpro


bushmechanic

Make sure that you put the engine on TDC number one cylinder.The valve rockers on number one cylinder need to be loose and on number four cylinder at least one rocker will be tight.You can install the pump on TDC number four cylinder and if it does start it will run like crap.Good luck.

John Woodworth

duckslayingpro : I haven't been able to get these pages to download here, send me your E-mail and i,ll E-mail them to you.
Two Garret 21 skidders, Garret 10 skidder, 580 Case Backhoe, Mobile Dimension sawmill, 066, 046 mag, 044, 036mag, 034, 056 mag, 075, 026, lewis winch

John Woodworth

duckslayingpro : I have been unable to load the pages from manual here, if you send me your E-mail will send them in a E-mail.
Two Garret 21 skidders, Garret 10 skidder, 580 Case Backhoe, Mobile Dimension sawmill, 066, 046 mag, 044, 036mag, 034, 056 mag, 075, 026, lewis winch

duckslayingpro

email is duckslayingpro@hotmail.com
i "think" i know what the timing lines on the pump are now i lined a long line up with a short one on the pump, got to engine to TDC by the timing key, when mounting the pump onto the driveshaft ihad to turn the pump a little and the timing marks ended up being about a 1/4 inch apart. bled the lines best i could and tried to start it nothing. after messing with it for about 2 hr of cranking and letting starter cool and finnally decided to try some either and got it started and it ran by itself with me on the trottle for about 30 seconds and died it wouldn't run without me on the throttle. After it died never could get it back started. i know i still have some air in it because i have an air bubble at the top of the filter (cant get read of it for some reason). I believe the little hand priming pump is bad could this be part of problem? having the timing marks off by a 1/4 inch keep it from starting and running? or do i just still have to much air in lines? if to much air is there a trick to get it out? I appreciate all the help you guys are giving me.

snowstorm

timing ....did you pull the valve cover and make sure #1 was on compression????like the guy told you????????if you dont know what your doing sometimes its best to hire someone that dose

sandhills

Never worked on one of those, but it's pretty much the same procedure for all the older pumps I've been around.  If I was you, and I know you're not wanting to hear this, but start over.  The lines in the pump should definetly line up and you do have to make sure it's the number one cylinder at TDC.  The only other thing, does the drive gear on the pump have straight cut teeth or are they (helical ?) don't know if thats the right word.  If they're not straight cut that may be where you got your lines 1/4 off.  Turn the gear back a bit so as it engages the drive gear when installing it turns a little to line the marks back up?  Hope this helps some.

duckslayingpro

ok thanks for all the info guys I will start back over. It will be next weekend before I can mess with it again though.
Thanks for everything.

Fredz

Old Topic!

Hi Folks.  I'm working on a 4239D engine in a loader that hasn't been used for about 2 years.  I got it started ok but would just for about 5 seconds and stop, repeatedly, so off with the pump - which was a job and a half removing the tapered drive shaft from the drive gear. It turned out that the internal flex drive had disintegrated and blocked things up.  The pump is the same as pictured above.  I aligned the internal marks behind the timing plate on the pump as described above and the punch marks on the mounting flange were aligned.  I looked for timing marks/pointer on the crank pulley but found none in the dirt - perhaps I need to look harder.  There is, however, a plastic plug on the left of the flywheel housing which, when removed, reveals the ring gear. There were was no pointer or identifiable marks that I could see.  I'll be refitting the injection pump in a couple of days and as the crankshaft hasn't been moved it will all go back in the same place after checking/cleaning the lift pump and replacing the fuel filter.  As I don't know how the machine was running before it was parked 2 years ago, I would like to know what the injection timing procedure actually is in case I have a problem after refitting the pump and need to accurately set set the timing. 

Can anyone provide me with the correct injection pump timing procedure please? 
Thanks in advance.

Southside

Not sure if what you are asking is different than the OP.  I had to replace the pump on my 540A, which is simply a 6 cyl version of your engine. The instructions for that are identical to what was written above.  The timing pin looks like a stud in that if you are standing on the left side of the machine (left facing front) and looking at what is the front of the flywheel cover the stud points toward you, maybe an inch, mine had a plastic cover on the point and with mud and all I would not have known that is what it was.  The pin is removed from the block like any other nut would be and the small cover it holds in place came off as well (this is from memory and I no longer have that machine, so it may be that there was more than one bolt in the cover but not that I recall) once the cover comes off you simply poke the pointer into the hole that is revealed and it will strike the front of the flywheel.  Turn the engine over using a breaker bar until the stud falls into the hole on the flywheel.  Like it was said here you need to make sure you are on cyl #1 TDC when you do this.  The pump lines were pretty straight forward, remove the window cover and if you don't see very clearly machined lines that all line up, turn the pump shaft by hand and you will see them come into the window, stop when they are all a straight line. 

For what it is worth I found it easier to time the pump, then pull the shaft out of the pump, secure it to the timing gear, and slide the pump over the mounted drive shaft being careful to get the seal in straight.  I had originally removed it by unbolting it from the timing gear but putting it back in that way was a bear. 

My pump had also sheared the drive shaft where it machines to a narrow throat, only realized that when I tried to time the pump and the lines would not move.  Actually replaced the whole pump and shaft with a rebuilt pump.

Hope that answers your questions, if not just give a shout. 
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Fredz

Thanks SSL.  Yes I'd read that but it doesn't match with what I remember seeing on the left side of the flywheel housing, hence my query.  The machine is about 40 miles away and I'll be back there in a few days.  The plastic plug I mentioned is almost 2 inches long and fits in a hole a bit over an inch diameter.   I'll post a pic or two in a few days when I recheck what's actually there.

kiko

Not trying to be a smart***, but your john deere engine is not different than all the others.  There are no pointers. Pin timed on the flywheel. As stated before when the pin falls you are top center compression number 1 or 6. Checking valve over lap will determine which one. Otherwise it a 50/50 chance.

Fredz

I'm sure it's no different than others too, that's just not what I saw a coupla weeks back,  Won't get there for another few days yet and I'll get some pix.  Removing the rocker cover isn't something I really want to do as the muffler is just above it - 4239D.

Fredz

Got it back together today and all's good.  Thanks folks for the tips above.  I found what I didn't see 2 weeks ago.





Removing the plastic cap allows you to turn the crank with a screwdriver in the ring gear.

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