iDRY Vacuum Kilns

Sponsors:

I cut my sawmill in half!

Started by canadianwoodworks, August 01, 2015, 08:35:20 AM

Previous topic - Next topic

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

dean herring

Havent yet Mr. Piney videos don't play very good at home. Will watch tomorrow at work
Thanks
Failure is not an option  3D Lumber

Chuck White

Might not be a bad idea to coat the "permanently bolted" parts with antisieze compound!

Neat project.
~Chuck~  Cooks Cat Claw sharpener and single tooth setter.  2018 Chevy Silverado and 2021 Subaru Ascent.
With basic mechanical skills and the ability to read you can maintain a Woodmizer  LT40!

GAmillworker

Great work.

Looking forward to second video.
Thank the Lord for second chances

69bronco

Thanks for sharing! looking forward to the completion popcorn_smiley

IndianaJoe

That fluid film is some amazing stuff. It is not petroleum based, but rather lanolin based. The can says that it will never dry out. I bought a can for the first time this spring as a treatment for ringworm in our show steers. A five day treatment was all it took, and it smells pleasant also.

pineywoods

Have you given any thought to adding some kind of power assist to extend and retract the outboard section? Like maybe an acme threaded jackscrew ? In my case, I would leave it normal length and run normal blades until one of them monster logs showed up, then extend and mount the long blade. I don't think there would be any problem with bandwheel alignment..Corrosion and seizing may be a problem with the aluminum insert. If I do mine, I'll go with steel, but then I have welding equipment and a fair sized milling machine.. Lube...look into silicone grease, kinda pricey but never gets hard or dry, won't melt and sheds water..

Thanks for the video, you got me thinking...
1995 Wood Mizer LT 40, Liquid cooled kawasaki,homebuilt hydraulics. Homebuilt solar dry kiln.  Woodmaster 718 planner, Kubota M4700 with homemade forks and winch, stihl  028, 029, Ms390
100k bd ft club.Charter member of The Grumpy old Men

Dave Shepard

Quote from: Peter Drouin on August 02, 2015, 07:43:37 AM
And you have to make a blade guard arm longer too.

Maybe. Maybe not. When set wide, the throat will be full of log, and you won't need to move it in close.
Wood-Mizer LT40HDD51-WR Wireless, Kubota L48, Honda Rincon 650, TJ208 G-S, and a 60"LogRite!

4x4American

I like when my mill has a throat full of log lol
Boy, back in my day..

Percy

Quote from: 4x4American on August 02, 2015, 08:22:58 PM
I like when my mill had a throat full of log lol
:D :D :D ;D :D :D :D ;D ;D ;D
GOLDEN RULE : The guy with the gold, makes the rules.

deadfall

I like it when it clears its throat. 
W-M LT40HD -- Siding Attachment -- Lathe-Mizer -- Ancient PTO Buzz Saw

============================

Happy for no reason.

dustintheblood

I watched it skeptically until 0:56 when your fitter friend showed his timmies.... I then knew he was a pro, and a good Canadian lad!

Great work!
Case 75C, Case 1494, RangeRoad RR10T36, Igland 4001, Hardy 1400ST, WM LT40HD, WM Edger, ICS DH Kiln

sdunston

Great Idea,I have enough work fighting 28" let alone 48"
:D.......looking forward to part 2

Sam
WM LT28, American fordge 18x8 planer,Orange and white chainsaws, NH TC33, IHT6 dozer, IH-H tractor and alot of other stuff that keeps me agravated trying to keep running

Jeff

I'd think that a galvanic corrosion issue is going to be a constant concern with the moving parts destroying any mechanical separation (lubricant, paint, etc). You might look into adding some sacrificial anodes.  I can remember years ago when a friend went out to use his aluminum boat. it had been turned upside down on saw horses for about a year. He had been working near it on some other project and had laid 3 steel flat washers on the boat near the stern. In the rather short time they had been there, they had corroded all the way through the aluminum. He had to have it patched.
Just call me the midget doctor.
Forestry Forum Founder and Chief Cook and Bottle Washer.

Commercial circle sawmill sawyer in a past life for 25yrs.
Ezekiel 22:30

canadianwoodworks

I'll have to make some decisions about the aluminum contacting the steel, I did not know about the issues.

I have thought about making it move in an out at the flick of a switch, but no set plans, first get it cutting at extended width.

I just received my blade 195'' I should have about a 46'' throat. We have milled with the mill in it's stock position for an entire week since putting it back together with no issues.

Thanks for all the well wishes & suggestions! 

Tom L

Quote from: Jeff on August 05, 2015, 04:15:52 PM
I'd think that a galvanic corrosion issue is going to be a constant concern with the moving parts destroying any mechanical separation (lubricant, paint, etc). You might look into adding some sacrificial anodes.  I can remember years ago when a friend went out to use his aluminum boat. it had been turned upside down on saw horses for about a year. He had been working near it on some other project and had laid 3 steel flat washers on the boat near the stern. In the rather short time they had been there, they had corroded all the way through the aluminum. He had to have it patched.

that's a good idea, you would have to run a ground wire from one of the thru bolts that goes thru the steel and aluminum and attach the other end of the ground to a anode, I know they sell them for boats , large zinks that are grounded throughout the boat , they corrode before anything else,
the only question I would have is that most zinks that I know of are in water.
will a zink work if it is in air?

jmouton

that is really kool,,   i have toyed with that idea before and havent gone any farther,,, but you have renewed  my  interest ,,,   i think it would be awesome to mill that big ,,,,  big tables come to mind  ,,big money too,,, how did you come up with the 195 inch band ,,  just what you measured , or you made it to fit a band that is readily  available    some measurements would be so helpfull ,,  how far did you extend the  end / band wheel,,    and then how did you compensate  for the sag on the end of the head , so that you cut level ,  is it like a quarter inch up ,,,  thanks


                                                                                                              jim
lt-40 wide ,,bobcat,sterling tandem flatbed log truck,10 ton trailer, stihl 075,041,029,066,and a 2017 f-350,oh and an edger

Kbeitz

This is what you need...

http://www.passagemaker.com/articles/technical/power/galvanic-isolators-and-isolation-transformers/

(ebay ad deleted by Admin, please refer to forum rules about posting such ads)
Collector and builder of many things.
Love machine shop work
and Wood work shop work
And now a saw mill work

petefrom bearswamp

Maybe I missed this in reading and it was answered, but how do you clamp the monster logs?
Kubota 8540 tractor, FEL bucket and forks, Farmi winch
Kubota 900 RTV
Polaris 570 Sportsman ATV
3 Huskies 1 gas Echo 1 cordless Echo vintage Homelite super xl12
57 acres of woodland

Kbeitz

I would think a log that big might not need clamped.
Where would it go... So heavy.....
Collector and builder of many things.
Love machine shop work
and Wood work shop work
And now a saw mill work

PineNut

When I have a large one, I use chocks. The big problem is getting the second side square when using chocks.

canadianwoodworks

I talked to woodmizer Canada, they told me the typical stock lengths they carry, the 195 was one of them. The piece of aluminum was 33'' which will slide out to add 16'' to the stock 28'' width to allow about 44'' total.  I have not cut with it yet, so I will be dealing with potential sag. Once I move forward to the next step, right now it's bolted back to stock length operating just like it did.

Quote from: jmouton on August 06, 2015, 09:54:54 PM
that is really kool,,   i have toyed with that idea before and havent gone any farther,,, but you have renewed  my  interest ,,,   i think it would be awesome to mill that big ,,,,  big tables come to mind  ,,big money too,,, how did you come up with the 195 inch band ,,  just what you measured , or you made it to fit a band that is readily  available    some measurements would be so helpfull ,,  how far did you extend the  end / band wheel,,    and then how did you compensate  for the sag on the end of the head , so that you cut level ,  is it like a quarter inch up ,,,  thanks


                                                                                                              jim

deadfall

I'm willing to bet there will not be much more in the way of sag.  I think the saw pulling, more than weight, takes up whatever slack there is to be had in the way of flex, and from there, I think you already have most of the sag at the stock reach and are near maximum.  Any adjustment will probably be minor.
W-M LT40HD -- Siding Attachment -- Lathe-Mizer -- Ancient PTO Buzz Saw

============================

Happy for no reason.

4x4American

Have you come up with any new information?
Boy, back in my day..

canadianwoodworks

Quote from: 4x4American on August 29, 2015, 09:19:02 AM
Have you come up with any new information?


I've received a 195'' long blade from Woodmizer, although this will work it really pushes the design to the maximum. So I decided to go with a 184'' long blade, which will give me about a 41'' total width of cut. The 184'' blade came in yesterday, I have not tried to put it on the mill yet, but plan to in the next few days.

I did decide to add 4 "set screws" 2 on the top side and 2 on the bottom side which clamp against the insert through the box steel to keep it exactly where it needs to be, along with the bolts that go through the box steel & insert.

I also did some motor work while the mill was down, took off the heads cleaned off all the carbon from the piston top & heads. Adjust valves and replaced all the gaskets needed for that operation.

It's back together and running great. I've milled about 3000 bdft my self with it bolted at its stock length.

Stay tuned!

4x4American

Boy, back in my day..

Thank You Sponsors!