Band Wheels

[250quality]

Has anybody switched from belted band wheels to solid steel wheels. Just blew another belt on my idler wheel and was thinking it was maybe time to switch over. They are also suppose to have alot less vibration and maybe help with blade breakage. Cooks has the whole package available but looking for a little input first.
Thanks

[Magicman]

You do not have your sawmill brand/type in your profile which hinders anyone trying to answer your question.

I wonder about something being wrong or out of alignment because I saw over 100K bf each year and only replace them when they are cut by a broken band.  I have never had a vibration problem but I only use WM B57 belts which are especially manufactured for them.  They are flat with no hump or bump where the ply's join.

[POSTON WIDEHEAD]

I'm not so sure I would want to switch from belts to a steel wheel. The belts are very important when it comes to the PSI I put on my blades. The belts also keep the blades from slipping. Unless somebody can change my mind, I believe I'd be making a BIG mistake getting rid of my belts.

[Magicman]

Backwoods sawyer just changed his from solid, back to belted.  For some reason he had continuous problems with the solid bandwheels.

Of course there are manufacturers that design their product around solid wheels and that is fine.  It was designed to operate that way.  They have spent the big $$$ on R&D.

[250quality]

Thanks MM. My mill was custom made by a guy in my area so no name brand to help you with. I think when I snapped a blade a while back it took a chunk out of the belt when it wound around it. They are just Gates belts so maybe look into the woodmizer belts. I have sawed a pile of lumber with them when all is going well but gonna pass it off as a fluke this time. New one is on last night and going agian.
I think it would be a pretty big gamble to spend 1500-2000 on new wheel when belts have been working for so long. That money would buy me a pretty nice sharpener I think.
I did take my band wheels off when I got the mill and have them trued up on a lathe to stop the vibration and that worked like a dream so I'll leave it alone.
Thanks to all.

[bandmiller2]

I have tight belts on my bandmill put on when I built the mill many years ago and there still fine.For what it will cost you to convert you could buy several sets of belts and a band grinder.A new belt is a cheap easy fix. Frank C.

[Magicman]

"Factory" built bandwheels are also balanced.  Mine has holes drilled to remove weight during the balancing process.

You can not really blame the belts when they are cut by a broken blade.  I seldom loose a belt by a broken blade but when it happens, I just put a new one on, smile, and go back to sawing.  Life is good.   

[JFarmer]

I converted my LT40 over to cooks steel wheels several months ago, and it was a great investment. I have ran several mills including a 70 and I dont care for belted wheels after running steel wheels.

[Magicman]

I am not in any way being critical or derogatory, but just for my information, would you care to describe how it is different and better? 

[sgschwend]

MM,
From what I remember it was said that an all metal wheels can remove heat from the saw and reduce the need for a compliant rim that would at some point need servicing. 

There is a potential for causing spikes in the saw strain from high spots in the wheels since there is no absorption material. 

The wheels would need to be truer than it compliant counterpart.  One manufacture I know of trues up their wheels as an assembly: wheel, bearings and shaft.

The all metal wheels do emulate the larger productions saws.