Alaska Trip

ellmoe · May 29, 2005, 07:53:16 AM

I'm planning to take off from the mill for a long week in June. My two sons (21 and 14) and I will be making a road trip. I've been working too much lately and there has been a lot of "family changes", so I'm looking forward to some re-bonding time with them. We are seriously considering going to Alaska.
We have never been there and it's a place I always wanted to go. Wherever we go, Alaska, or the Appalachians (the alternative) we plan on doing some camping. Anybody have any comments about traveling in Alaska, specifically camping, hiking? Is there anyplace special we should go. Should we try to rent a vehicle. I do want to take the train to the Denali, and would enjoy some fishing. However, the fishing packages for the tourists are too pricey! I'm sure the natives do pay a grand just to go fishing. Any comments, suggestions will be appreciated. We need to decide soon, while airline tickets are still reasonable.

Thanks!

Mark

Minnesota_boy · May 29, 2005, 09:49:05 AM

Three years ago I flew to Anchorage with my wife and 20 year old daughter. We rented a motorhome and went to Homer, Seward, Denali Nat'l Park, and up the Glenn highway as far as the Matanuska glacier. We mostly stayed in state park campgrounds but you can camp along the highway at a turnoff also. We took the train from Anchorage to Whittier as a package that included a ride on a big catamaran to some of the glaciers that spill into Prince William sound. Having the motorhome gave us transportation, a good roof over our heads in case of rain, a hard side in case a bear wanted to visit, and flexibility in our schedule as we needed no reservation for a night's stay. We were not allowed to put any fish in the motorhome nor any wild meat (the smell takes time to get out and the motorhome rental place wanted to be able to rent it out right away again).

Kirk_Allen · May 30, 2005, 12:13:03 AM

ellmoe,
I spent 12 years in Anchorage during my last hitch in the Air Force. You can get in LOTS of fishing for very little money if you do your home work.

This time of year the Reds are starting to run up the Kenei River and into the Russion River. This is probably one of the easiest places to catch reds when they are running that is a easy drive from Anchorage. Lots of camp sites in the area. If you want to go north you can catch Kings in numerous creeks this time of the year. When I was up there most of those northern creeks were weekend only fisheries but that may have changed. If they are still weekend only (fishing starts at Midnight Friday night) you will want to be set up severl hours ahead of time. Some of those streams get PACKED with locals.

Great streams for Kings: The willow, Sheep Creek, Little Sue, and even Ship creek in downtown Anchorage.

I know there are lots more but those are the ones that come to mind. I caught a 48 lb King on my #9 flyrod in the Willow!

If your flying up, rent as big a vehicle as you can afford and just go! You will not regret it! I PROMISE!

There are a couple streams just south of Anchorage that opened for silvers the last time I was there on vacation and lets just say in 15 minutes we had our 3 salmon limit!

If your really adventuraus rent ATV's and go north/East towards Glen Allen. When you get to the first summit there is a lodge. Park just east of the summit lodge and follow the trail back as far as your imagination can take you. About 40 miles back you will find some of the BEST rainbow and grayling fishing in the world. Make sure you go past Sheep Mountain lodge. That lodge is about 15 minutes before the summit. I just cant remember the name of it.

Depending on when your going up, you can get Silver salmon guided fishing trips on the Little Suesitna river for $100 bucks. I broke down and did that the last time we went up.

Another GREAT time is going to Homer and taking a Halibut charter. Well worth the experience. If you LOVE fishing, just imagine a 4x8 sheet of plywood 200 feet deep with 4 cement blocks/ one on each coner, and your line hooked to an eye bolt in the center. Now bring that up by hand! That is what its like to catch a 100 lb Halibut!

Another cheap option but well worth it is just fishing on the local lakes on Elmendorf AFB. The public use to be able to fish those lakes with a pass but not sure if thats the case with the way things are now after 9-11. If you can, go to six mile lake on Elmendorf and fish near the float plane launch on the west end of the lake. I have cought some great fish in that lake!

Make sure you call the Department of Fish and Game and get all the info on whats running and when. It will save you lots of time and trouble. Nothing worse than trying to catch fish in a stream that the salmon are not running in yet. Water temp is the key to the runs and Fish and Game have all the info you need.

CAUTION: When the rules say you cant snag a fish, DONT KEEP ONE YOU SNAG! The guy in the ragged jeans next to you on the stream may just be the Fish and Game Enforcement Officer just waiting to give you a ticket. Salmon must be hooked in the mouth, unless you are in a designated snagging area.

Homer use to have a snagging pond for Kings. What a blast that was!

GO NORTH, YOU WONT REGRET IT!

Kirk_Allen · May 30, 2005, 12:26:34 AM

Just east of the lodge I mentioned is Flat Creek Trail head. If you ask anyone in the lodge how to get to the Little Nelchina River trail they will show you. MAKE SURE YOU EAT AT THE LODGE AND GET A PEICE OF HOMEADE BANANA CREAM PIE!..

From Flat Creek Trail go north until the trail takes you down a LARGE hill into the Little Nelchina River Trail. Once in the valley on the Little Nelchina River Trail go West. When you get to the headwaters of the LNRT follow the trail up to the right. You will see it on mountain from the river trail. That takes you up to Horsepasture pass. You will know when you get there! It is a HUGE basin that looks like a giant horse pasture. Follow that trail north until you come to several small streams. The trail will be on the west of the stream most of the way but just before it crosses you will see a large 90 degree bend in the stream with HUGE rocks as the bank. The water has cut a hole about 30 feet deep in that corner. Well, after you cross the stream just past that, come back to that rock corner and fish from the top of the rock down in the middle of the bend. We caught state record Grayling in that hole with nothing more than a brass hook. Now you want to talk about some GREAT eatin! Nothing better than fresh grayling. If you put them in a plastic bag take a whiff of it. They smell like Watermelon. Dont take my word for it, Try it!

Now of course to do this you will have to go to Big Boy Toys and rent some ATV's but I assure you , you will have an adventure!

As a side note, there are Grizzlies in that area but rarely would you have an encounter with them. Most all of that area is above tree line so you can see for miles!

If you have the itch to bring a handgun, make sure it does not have any sights on the barrel! That way it wont hurt so bad when the bear takes it away from you and shoves it up your........................, well, you get the point! ;D

In 12 years I have only had 4 encounters with bears, of which 3 of those times I was hunting them. The time I wasn't lets just say he was just as afraid of me as I was of him.

Kirk_Allen · May 30, 2005, 12:31:36 AM

Now if you really are adventuras, keep going north until you hit the Little Oshetna River trail. That is about 60 miles from the closest road. Some of the biggest moose I have ever seen were in that area and the only way in is by plane, or ATV, which few folks would do since its such a long trip.

When my son was four years old I took one of my trophy caribou on Horsepasture Pass. My first Trophy Caribou was taken in the bottom land of the Little Nelchina River trail. Kind of early for caribou in June but rest assured, you will see Moose and sheep and possible wolves, although the wolves tend to follow the caribou.

OK, now you got me going! Time for a break and go back up north!

Like to drive? Anchorage to Haines! WHAT A TRIP! LOTS TO DO and GREAT THINGS TO SEE!

ellmoe · May 30, 2005, 03:23:55 AM

Minn. boy- Thanks for the info. Do you have a particular RV dealer to recommend?

Kirk- WOW! "Above and Beyond! You must have really liked Alaska to be so enthusiastic. How much were RV rentals, and did you rent them in Anchorage?

Next week my oldest will come by and we will check on flight prices and make our decision. As a wildlifer I've always been fascinated by our northern State. Hopefully, this will be the time. Last time I check, no one has promised me tomorrow!

Thanks again,

Mark

Minnesota_boy · May 30, 2005, 08:00:27 AM

When we went to Alaska, we rented the RV from Alexander's RV. Owned by Bob Alexander. Nice people, Bob took time to drive us to the airport when it was time to leave.

Don't check the airline prices, just go! We put off the trip too long and the cost was unbelieveable. My wife and her sister were planning to go and I kept holding off. Her sister got cancer and died. That cost was too high. Wish now we had gone so she could have gone too.

Kirk_Allen · May 30, 2005, 11:05:13 AM

Enthusiastic is an understatement. MB is right, JUST GO!

My wife and I are going to buy property in Haines after we sell our home in Chicago area and we plan on building a Timber Frame and spending our summers up there.

There are several RV rental places but what ever you do, DONT WAIT LONG! Those things get book up fast!.

One popular outfit was RV America, but I dont know if they are still there. Also make sure you get a Anchorage paper (Sunday or Wed) and check for privately owned RV Rentals. Lots of residents rent out their RV in the summer.

Another otpion is to check with RV manufactures. I knew guys that would fly to the lower 48 and pick them up and drive them to Anchorage. They got to stay in them the whole trip up. If you like to drive the Alaskan Highway is an awesome tirp. I have done that drive 5 times!

If you like razor clams you can go down to Deep Creek, (3-4 hrs from anchorage "south") and go claming during low tide and fish for steel head during the incoming tide. Kings should be running now as well.

Hicking? Pick your mountain! I had a freind that would go mountain climbing with me to get in shape for Sheep season. Pick a trail along the highway (there are thousands of them) and jsut start walking! We went up a water shed trail and ended up 7 miles from the road and with a brief 500 yard tough climb at the end, were 4,000 feet above the coast and on top of the world! What a view.

We moved out of Alaska in 94 so I know lots of city things have changed but I assure you, the wilderness has not been tamed!

If you go the ATV route let me know. We have a cabin up the Chistachina River that, if still standing, your welcome to go stay in. We built it 30 miles up the river trail that went to an old gold mine area. There were three of us that built it so we could hunt in that area. One has passed away. If the other guy is still there Im sure he could give you the rundown on how to get there! Just the ride to the cabin is worth the trip up north.

My brother came up with a freind back in the lat 80's and I took them to the cabin and spent 6 days back there. We ate beaver, caribou, rabbit, Ptarmigan and watched a Grizzly drag a bull moose up the side of a hill like it was a doll.

OH Man, I am getting the itch real bad! Guess I am going to have to have my wife check on some plane tickets 8)

Fla._Deadheader · May 30, 2005, 12:59:11 PM

You might call Alaska Mining and Dive Supply, in Anchorage. They could give some info. Ask for Steve Herschback. He owns the place. Tell him Harold in Fl sentcha. He's a good guy to know. ;D ;D

pappy · May 30, 2005, 06:10:00 PM

WOW Kirk !!!!!!!!!!!

I new Alaska was a great place and we've always wanted to go there. It's time... thank you for the great descriptions of your fortunate time up there.

We've really got to get up there... we got a friend who is a teacher in Tuntituliak(sp), Alaska and his stint is almost done

Kirk_Allen · May 31, 2005, 12:58:16 AM

Now that you have my blood going I remembered another great adventure that is well worth the trip.

From Anchorage go north towards Fairbanks. 212 miles you will come to Cantwell, AK. Take the road east in Cantwell towards Pasxon, AK. The last time I was on that road it was all gravel for 140 miles. It took about 4 hours to cross that area but WHAT AN EXPERIENCE. Take a fly rod and fish some of the streams on the way. The scenory is remarkable and you will truly be in the wilderness. When you get to the other side, which is Paxson, you can either go north to Faribanks, or south to Glen Allen. If you go towards Glen Allen you can continue south from there to Valdez. Some beutiful sceniory and fishing all along that road!

If you decide to drive up make sure you stop in BC and experience the hot springs or better yet, take a trip to Whitehorse, Yukon Territory and go to the hot springs there and visit the historic Gold Rush Town! Its a great historical visit!

If you PUSH, you can drive to White Horse in about 13 hours from Anchorage, but thats no fun. Much better taking several days to get there and enjoy the trip!

sawguy21 · May 31, 2005, 09:06:16 AM

If you have the chance to see the Yukon and Alaska, make the trip. You will never forget it Take industrial strength DEET and netting. The skeeters and blackflies take on two drums of blood er fuel when they land. :D

Egon · May 31, 2005, 06:08:53 PM

Have you considered starting or ending the trip on the " Marine Highway " ferries that go throughout South West Alaska stopping at the islands. They start from Seatle and will go as far north as Skagway.

Did a three week tour in 87 with bicycles. Neat trip.

Egon

Kirk_Allen · May 31, 2005, 10:26:59 PM

Egon, I do believe you mean "South East" Alaska. Going to the south west would put you in the alutian islands and I have been there and lets just say, you dont want to do that on the Marine Ferry system ;D

You are correct though on the Marine highway! I have taken it from Seattle to Haines and what a joy it was! Lots to see and you dont have to worry about driving!

sawguy21 · May 31, 2005, 11:47:29 PM

Book well in advance, like two years, to get on the ferry cruise. It is well worth the wait.

Minnesota_boy · June 01, 2005, 07:59:46 AM

One of the highlights of our Alaska trip (of many) was the trip by train from Anchorage to Whittier followed by a tour of tidewater glaciers and return to Anchorage by train. The glacier cruise is timed to coincide with the train's arrival and departure. A bit more expensive than many of the things we did in Alaska, but somebody else did the drriving which allowed me to gawk at the scenery all the time instead of watching traffic. Here's a link to the info.
http://www.26glaciers.com/rates.htm