OK no boring videos to put you to sleep....just photos and good English language :)
To start this new thread, I'm now on my 3rd year with my 2012 8th week manufactured 562XP. Now you must understand I'm not logging 8 hours a day with this saw. The work it does in my tree service operation is shared with other multiple saws. But it is my main go to saw, and it does have well over 1500 hours on it with no mechanical issues what so ever not even a new carb kit installed yet.
I recently did a muffler mod to it and the way the muffler is designed there is no baffle with holes over the cylinder exhaust port like mufflers of old, just a sloped wall of metal to deflect the exhaust into the bottom of the muffler.
Now the trouble with these EPA compliant mufflers is its small exhaust outlet hole. As my photo shows I drilled two 5/16" holes on opposite sides of the outlet and still am able to retain the factory installed spark arrestor screen. This modification has greatly helped stop the saws hot start carb flooding issues and decimal levels are still modest.
I also decided to run .325 chisel chain with a 9 pin rim sprocket on a 18" Cannon Super Mini bar . The Chinese made sprocket nose tip that Cannon originally installed burned out recently so I replaced it with a genuine Windsor Mini Pro tip.
I file the chain with a 5 mm file rather then the smaller diameter 3/16" file normally used..... for that little bit better chip clearance and flow.
Last photo notice the smaller 550XP dog I installed to match the shorter 18" .325 b/c.
How does my 562XP cut?
It's a light sabre ;D
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/21589/20150916_162032.jpg)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/21589/20150916_160638.jpg)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/21589/20150916_171738.jpg)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/21589/20150916_171806.jpg)
Here's a pic of its spark plug after the muffler mod with a nice tan color.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/21589/20150916_111003.jpg)
Holmentree How do you think that muffler mod would work on a 550xp ? Maybe drill smaller holes than on the 562 muffler ? I haven't done anything to my 550 except run it.
Quote from: Pine Ridge on September 16, 2015, 09:12:54 PM
Holmentree How do you think that muffler mod would work on a 550xp ? Maybe drill smaller holes than on the 562 muffler ? I haven't done anything to my 550 except run it.
From looking at the 2 models being almost virtually identical I would give it a try.
I can guarantee you Husqvarna would have dual outlet mufflers available if they could get them past the EPA folks.
Ok thanks, i will tinker with my 550 when i get a chance.
Willard . did you drill those holes with the muffler on ??
Any metal in that muffler could get in the exhaust port so I would strongly suggest anyone doing this to remove the muffler and blow it out with compressed air real well or even flush it with water several times .
The risk is small BUT ...........
Quote from: nitehawk55 on September 16, 2015, 09:52:30 PM
Willard . did you drill those holes with the muffler on ??
Any metal in that muffler could get in the exhaust port so I would strongly suggest anyone doing this to remove the muffler and blow it out with compressed air real well or even flush it with water several times .
The risk is small BUT ...........
no worries :D I did it with the muffler removed. But thanks for bringing that up I should have explained that earlier.
I'll do that in my next post.
Before you drill the two holes in the muffler make sure you remove the muffler first to avoid getting filings and metal fragments sucked into the p/c upon starting up the saw.
Bend the exhaust outlet deflector upwards with a pair of pliers to get access to drill. With a center punch make 2 indents of opposite sides of the outlet. Drill pilot holes with a 1/8" drill bit, then finish with the 5/16" bit. The drilling will have to be done at a slight angle as the deflector can't be bent far enough back without tearing it. After holes are drilled bend deflector back in its original position with a small hammer.
Shake out any metal filings and fragments then finish with lots of compressed air, reinstall spark arrestor screen and screw. Replace muffler to saw with 2 muffler gaskets on both sides of the aluminum heat shield.
HolmenTree , I sure like your little Norwegian flag keychain fob! Would love to find one of the Danish flag.
Quote from: mcourtney on September 17, 2015, 01:34:17 AM
HolmenTree , I sure like your little Norwegian flag keychain fob! Would love to find one of the Danish flag.
Thanks mcourtney , my Aunt from Oslo gave me that key fob 30 years ago. I think of it as a good luck charm.
Are you in Minnesota as I notice Pomme de Terre on your avatar?
When I put a new piston and jug on my 346XP I don't recall there being any muffler gaskets, only the heat shield. Should there be gaskets?
Thanks!
I use a round carbide burr in a die grinder for getting under the defector. Using one allows the option of making the holes oblong. I always have trouble holding the muffler in the vice. It likes to vibrate loose. Last time I took a piece of wood and bolted the muffler to that and then clamped the wood into the vice. It works for me.
Quote from: LeeB on September 17, 2015, 05:36:47 AM
When I put a new piston and jug on my 346XP I don't recall there being any muffler gaskets, only the heat shield. Should there be gaskets?
Lee thanks for bringing this up , I hope others will chime in on this gasket issue.
Yes there is a gasket between the muffler and the heat shield on the 562XP , not sure about the 346.
The gasket gets welded to the heat shield from heat so you may not have noticed it. I checked both 550 and 562 IPL's and there's only 1 gasket between the muffler and aluminum heat Shield. The heat shield is bare against the cylinder exhaust port.
I put an extra gasket between the heat shield and cylinder, but my questions to anyone out there is "should the gasket not be there so the cylinder heat can be properly transfered through the aluminum heat shield by metal to metal connection?"
"Or does it matter as it was just a cost and weight saving design?"
There was no gasket when I took the muffler off. I was actually kind of surprised. I recall checking the heat shield to see if one had indeed welded itself to it, but it was the same on either side. I think I have the IPL for it on my laptop. I'll check if it calls for one when I knock off this afternoon. Can't quite reach the saw from over here to check it out.
Quote from: 49er on September 17, 2015, 08:24:37 AM
I use a round carbide burr in a die grinder for getting under the defector. Using one allows the option of making the holes oblong. I always have trouble holding the muffler in the vice. It likes to vibrate loose. Last time I took a piece of wood and bolted the muffler to that and then clamped the wood into the vice. It works for me.
That's a good idea 49er. Dremil would work great as the drill bit tends to make tear small fragments around the hole radius in the thin metal.
Anyone using the drill method make sure as I did was scrape the edges after to remove any fragments.
Apparently it does have a gasket. Just looked it up. Could well be that my memory is less than stellar on the account. I have been to sleep at least once since then. :D
With 1500 hours on it I am impressed with your care and use of a saw.
Here in Nova Scotia we find that the best is out of them by 1000 hours.
I plug in every one that comes in the shop to check and we keep track of them as best as we can.
I would say that most of the saws early demise is because of our typical small limmy wood.
The saw is on or close to the rev limiter all the time.
How do you find yours with the .325 chain, does it run up to the limiter in big wood or perhaps there is enough load to keep it happy.
Thanks for the tips ad update.
Regards Chris
Great thread Willard! I like this reference style with pics. Often thought about doing a reference series myself focusing on different saw chassis. Maybe this winter. A written version of those "boring" youtube vids Walter and I do. :D
I like the legal muff mod idea. Was 5/16 the biggest drill that would fit in there? I might try that with a 3/8 drill. Or like 49er says, just make them a little bigger with a die grinder. It's not just about better breathing for power, but getting some of the heat out of there. That's what has helped with the hot start issue.
And .325 on a 60cc saw does work nice. I have one of my 262's set up with an 8 pin .325, and I'm happy with the results.
And yeah guys 346's are supposed to have a muffler gasket. And the order they go on with Huskys is: Muffler, then gasket, and then the deflector up against the cylinder.
Chris,
I always use 40:1 mix and mercilessly keep my chains sharp. Probably why I'm having good service out of the 562, never had it checked and upgraded by the dealership either.
Don't know about the rev limiter as I never noticed it, Rev boost does everything for me I need.
I like the .325 chain as it's close in cutter size to the 76LG I've run. But I only have a few loops of the long discontinued 76 chain but have lots of .325
Only trouble gearing is limited with the 9 pin rim as that's the only .325 rim sprocket that will fit the 562's standard 7 spline clutch drum.
Can a 560 or Jonsered equivalent small 7 spline clutch setup fit a 562XP ?
Bob,
Thanks, I got lots of shop time lately as we're getting lots of rain.
I was referring to the boring mod videos everyone's making on YT, not yours and Walts...you guys do it right.
I may try larger holes later but so far happy. As I said to Chris I'd like to try other smaller .325 rims but the 562 standard 7 spline drum only allows a 9 pin rim which is a tad larger then a 8 pin 3/8.
Do 560 or Jonsered equivalent small 7 spline clutch setups exchange with the 562?
Odd. According to the 560 and 562 IPL'S both share the same clutch drum and bearing. But they don't share the same oil pump ring gear.
Quote from: HolmenTree on September 17, 2015, 12:12:51 PM
.....
Only trouble gearing is limited with the 9 pin rim as that's the only .325 rim sprocket that will fit the 562's standard 7 spline clutch drum.
Can a 560 or Jonsered equivalent small 7 spline clutch setup fit a 562XP ?
.....
As I said to Chris I'd like to try other smaller .325 rims but the 562 standard 7 spline drum only allows a 9 pin rim which is a tad larger then a 8 pin 3/8.
Do 560 or Jonsered equivalent small 7 spline clutch setups exchange with the 562?
I assume that will work fine, as both drum options are listed in several IPLs for this saw family (if not all?).
Thanks I was waiting for you to chip in SawTroll.
I have the earlier 2011 560 and 562 IPL'S and their clutch #s are the same but their oiler drive ring gears are different....odd
Nothing to confirm which is small 7 spline or standard 7 spline
Look at frame B in the attached 2013 560 IPL. The set listed as .325x7 includes the small spline drum, the one listed as 3/8x7 includes the standard spline drum.
The drum kits are the same between the models - the oiler gears are different between the models, but not between the different drums on the same model. If anyone knows for sure why it is this way, it likely is Spike60....
Thanks Niko.
From my 2011 560 IL the small drum kit went from 575 26 10-01 to your 2013 #575 26 10-03
Same with my 2011 562 IPL. THE oiler gear and bearing are the same .
So whatever is available here in Canada I'll order . But seeing the 560 is not sold here I may have to go to the Jonsered version .
Any #s on it or are they the same?
Oddly, the 2260 IPL still list the -01 and -02 drums.
Btw, The 560xp comes standard with a small spline .325 setup in Europe, and it isn't really common to convert to 3/8".
Quote from: HolmenTree on September 17, 2015, 12:12:51 PM
Chris,
I always use 40:1 mix and mercilessly keep my chains sharp. Probably why I'm having good service out of the 562, never had it checked and upgraded by the dealership either.
Don't know about the rev limiter as I never noticed it, Rev boost does everything for me I need.
I like the .325 chain as it's close in cutter size to the 76LG I've run. But I only have a few loops of the long discontinued 76 chain but have lots of .325
Only trouble gearing is limited with the 9 pin rim as that's the only .325 rim sprocket that will fit the 562's standard 7 spline clutch drum.
Can a 560 or Jonsered equivalent small 7 spline clutch setup fit a 562XP ?
Bob,
Thanks, I got lots of shop time lately as we're getting lots of rain.
I was referring to the boring mod videos everyone's making on YT, not yours and Walts...you guys do it right.
I may try larger holes later but so far happy. As I said to Chris I'd like to try other smaller .325 rims but the 562 standard 7 spline drum only allows a 9 pin rim which is a tad larger then a 8 pin 3/8.
Do 560 or Jonsered equivalent small 7 spline clutch setups exchange with the 562?
I don't think even I can make a video for 15 minutes or so on the simple but effective muffler mod as defined by Holman Tree! It reminds me...physics really doesn't change although the methods used to convey a message has over time.
AND much of what many currently are trying to accomplish with modifications has been a practice for a very long time in the performance community. I remember a few years back getting an article about building a big Jonsered .. for competition. From Holman Tree. AND it strikes me every time I see a "new" video or thread on complex mods, how the goal ultimately is to achieve something similar with physics of their system working compression/squish band/ etc. as is articulated in that 1970's era article. Of course in that build there was a significant amount of machine work, especially relative to the combustion chamber. Bottom line. Physics is physics. And some have literally seen it all...
And its nice to see nice effective simple modifications that make improvements WITHOUT machining... mods that can be done with simple hand tools. :P
Quote from: HolmenTree on September 17, 2015, 01:58:18 AM
Quote from: mcourtney on September 17, 2015, 01:34:17 AM
HolmenTree , I sure like your little Norwegian flag keychain fob! Would love to find one of the Danish flag.
Thanks mcourtney , my Aunt from Oslo gave me that key fob 30 years ago. I think of it as a good luck charm.
Are you in Minnesota as I notice Pomme de Terre on your avatar?
No I'm in Missouri but I recognized the flag as one of the Scandinavian flags , common heritage I suppose.
Whew ! , glad you clarified that Willard , I didn't think you would but your pics looked like you had done it bolted to the saw :D
Going to try that MM on my 555 at some point as well as the 550 and others at some point . I'm not into porting saws , I feel it best to leave them near stock....but that's just me .
yes on the 40:1 mix , I think that makes a big difference with longevity in the long run provided something else doesn't cause a lean issue .
Most all of my saws have modified mufflers, but I haven't got around to swiss cheesing my Jonsered 2260 muffler yet. I typically like using a husky 266 deflector and just bolt it onto the side for a dual port, but the 2260\562 muffler doesn't really seem to be a good fit for that. I'll definitely drill out under the deflector though!
Can you remove any material through the inlet of the muffler?
Chris, a very Happy Birthday to you! 8)
Yes Happy Birthday Chris
No there's nothing worth removing in front of the inlet of the muffler . Just a deflector plate with lots of opening at the bottom of the muffler . If one was to woods port the cylinder sure remove the deflector but the issue is the extra small outlet that needs to be enlarged.
For just a muffler mod the deflector is a must to keep the decimal levels down.
Quote from: HolmenTree on September 17, 2015, 07:01:46 PM
Yes Happy Birthday Chris
No there's nothing worth removing in front of the inlet of the muffler . Just a deflector plate with lots of opening at the bottom of the muffler . If one was to woods port the cylinder sure remove the deflector but the issue is the extra small outlet that needs to be enlarged.
For just a muffler mod the deflector is a must to keep the decimal levels down.
Decibel, I presume. Some auto correct likely is playing games with you? :)
Quote from: SawTroll on September 17, 2015, 07:17:29 PM
Quote from: HolmenTree on September 17, 2015, 07:01:46 PM
Yes Happy Birthday Chris
No there's nothing worth removing in front of the inlet of the muffler . Just a deflector plate with lots of opening at the bottom of the muffler . If one was to woods port the cylinder sure remove the deflector but the issue is the extra small outlet that needs to be enlarged.
For just a muffler mod the deflector is a must to keep the decimal levels down.
Decibel, I presume. Some auto correct likely is playing games with you? :)
Haha yes this phone is a challenge Niko
Thanks for all your input, your wealth of information gathering is greatly appreciated 8)
Ah,Yes, I remember the oil pump gear being different now. My buddy logs and his gear stripped and I thought I'd just swap my 2260 gear but it wouldn't work. The 562 gear is thicker.
Quote from: 49er on September 17, 2015, 08:17:06 PM
Ah,Yes, I remember the oil pump gear being different now. My buddy logs and his gear stripped and I thought I'd just swap my 2260 gear but it wouldn't work. The 562 gear is thicker.
I have seen claims that the 562 crank is longer on the clutch side, but the evidence is lacking - and I fail to see any reason it should be that way? There is a slight difference in the oilers (the 562 puts out more at max, for 28" bars), but again I fail to see how that should make a thicker oiler gear necessary? ???
I haven't looked into how it is with the 556 vs. the 555.
Willard, Pomme de Torre is a reservoir in the south western side of Missouri.
Quote from: Oliver1655 on September 17, 2015, 10:02:36 PM
Willard, Pomme de Torre is a reservoir in the south western side of Missouri.
Yeah I Googled that too Oliver and found its also a ghost town in Minnesota. Other Google search gave me potatoes ;D
Quote from: weimedog on September 17, 2015, 03:24:23 PM
I remember a few years back getting an article about building a big Jonsered .. for competition. From Holman Tree. AND it strikes me every time I see a "new" video or thread on complex mods, how the goal ultimately is to achieve something similar with physics of their system working compression/squish band/ etc. as is articulated in that 1970's era article. Of course in that build there was a significant amount of machine work, especially relative to the combustion chamber. Bottom line. Physics is physics. And some have literally seen it all...
And its nice to see nice effective simple modifications that make improvements WITHOUT machining... mods that can be done with simple hand tools. :P
Thanks Walter.
Back in the day a few holes stabbed into the front of a muffler with a scrench was a muffler mod :D
Walter that Jonsereds 111S hot saw build documentary from 1981-'84 I sent you was a good read. Especially with the homemade cast iron cylinder sleeve, detachable cylinder head and go kart carb.
Sad to see the saw ended up in Wayne Suttons chainsaw museum as the builder was scared of liability issues from the highest bidder.
Hey, thanks for the happy birthday wishes guys.
So this evening I drilled a few holes under the deflector on my 2260. Made a few quick test cuts. It's not a heck of a lot louder cutting, although noticeable. I noticed a different tone idling, sounds good. It'll get a workout next week so then I'll see if/how much difference there is.
I haven't had any hot start or hesitation issues, I'm pretty impressed with the saw. I am running a 16", 3/8 setup and it's an animal for limb work and blocking 16" or less firewood. It was hanging right with an 046 stihl and ahead of a echo 670p cutting firewood (all 16" or less) at work last week.
One day I broke the center out of the starter on my 2253 and the next week I broke the starter on my 2260. Both were ported by tlandrum and pull over hard even with the decompression on. I thought it might be me but he said it just happens.
Quote from: 49er on September 19, 2015, 10:19:53 AM
One day I broke the center out of the starter on my 2253 and the next week I broke the starter on my 2260. Both were ported by tlandrum and pull over hard even with the decompression on. I thought it might be me but he said it just happens.
As I understand it, increasing combustion chamber static compression tends to be overrated by several US "saw builders", and it has some disadvantages.
As I understand it, increasing combustion chamber static compression tends to be overrated by several US "saw builders", and it has some disadvantages.
[/quote]
Yep, it may have and broken starters may be one of them. So what saw builders are those?
My 390 has so much compression I can not crank it fast enough to get a good reading. I have seen 240 psi. smiley_dizzy I had to put two "O"rings on the fitting because the piston hit it.
The two Jonsereds are not suppose to have too much. They were done by tlandrum. I have not checked the compression on those two because I don't have the correct fitting for my gauge. They have the little spark plugs.
Buyer be aware fellas.
A lot of these back woods saw builders with a lathe get business building wood ported saws by word of mouth are not what their cracked up to be :D
Too bad they can't file and handle a saw what their touted to be.
Their videos don't lie :D
HolmenTree, I wouldn't call tlandrum backwoods. He has a good reputation.
I also know he spent many years logging before opening a Husky-Jonsered shop.
That's good to hear 49er.
My comment wasn't singling out your saw's builder. I apologize if I made it sound that way.
No problem, I have been rolling around conflicting view points in my head on saw modifications and longevity. I have been working on a 576 this morning, use to be AT, that was ported and has been very reliable for about two years in logging service.
I savaged it with a parts saw after a skidder accident. It seems to me trauma kills about half the saws in production use.
Yesterday I gave the 562 with a .325 9pin rim sprocket and 18" 20LPX chain setup a good workout.
I found the 9 pin rim was too much for my stock 562 with muffler mod even with the smaller chain on a 18" bar.
I might as well go back to the full size 3/8 and run the smaller 7 pin rim.
So I ordered a 2260/560 sprocket drum and oiler worm gear and then run either a 7 or 8 pin .325 rim sprocket. The 8 pin will get the gearing back to the original 7 pin 3/8 rim, but I have strong anticipation for the smaller 7 pin .325 rim also.
Lot's of torque potential in bigger wood with the little 7 pin as the 562 has lots of top end rpm already.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/21589/20150916_160638.jpg)
I just have to ask...is the .325 up to that kind of power.
We had trouble with it on 262 and 357 saws in cold weather.
Would rip the chain apart when limbing.
This is probably operator error but that 562 is pretty fast for limbing and here I would not even consider putting it on.
Most users cant file the chain very good anyway but that's another story.
Regards Chris
Quote from: snowshoveler on September 23, 2015, 11:26:28 AM
I just have to ask...is the .325 up to that kind of power.
We had trouble with it on 262 and 357 saws in cold weather.
Would rip the chain apart when limbing.
This is probably operator error but that 562 is pretty fast for limbing and here I would not even consider putting it on.
Most users cant file the chain very good anyway but that's another story.
Regards Chris
On a 60cc or smaller saw the .325 is a perfect chain in my opinion. On my 562 max bar length is 18" and I like the small radius pro bars like the Cannon Super Mini and Windsor Mini Pro which are lighter, smoother in bore cutting and limbing.
I've run .325 in much colder winters and never had breakage. Breakage comes from running a chain on a worn out rim sprocket and lowering the depth gauges too much or too much hook in the cutters side plates.
I had the 562 cutting pretty good today with the 9 pin .325 rim. I hit a stone and filed the new chain down to about 2/3rd. Was cutting some good sized birch and jack pine with good speed, limbing was like a light sabre when the rev boost cut in.
Eager to try the 8 pin.
Here's a pic of my favorite chain , the old discontinued Oregon 76LG chisel. Cutter size comparable to a .325 but the beefier chassis of a 3/8.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/21589/20140326_165144.jpg)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/21589/20140326_165204.jpg)
HolmenTree, I have never rum a 60cc saw with .325 but I do run .325 on my 2253. How does 325 compare to 3/8 when bore cutting?
Quote from: 49er on September 23, 2015, 11:19:17 PM
HolmenTree, I have never rum a 60cc saw with .325 but I do run .325 on my 2253. How does 325 compare to 3/8 when bore cutting?
All depends what size of wood you're bore cutting and what bar you're running....all relative.
That small nose bar I showed bore cuts very smooth , you can push the tip straight into the tree and there's no chattering, kick back or wandering. Plus the narrow contour of the bar takes up a lot less space in the tree if your bore cutting the back cut away from the hinge wood for example.
Quote from: HolmenTree on September 23, 2015, 10:44:34 AM
Yesterday I gave the 562 with a .325 9pin rim sprocket and 18" 20LPX chain setup a good workout.
I found the 9 pin rim was too much for my stock 562 with muffler mod even with the smaller chain on a 18" bar.
I might as well go back to the full size 3/8 and run the smaller 7 pin rim.
So I ordered a 2260/560 sprocket drum and oiler worm gear and then run either a 7 or 8 pin .325 rim sprocket. The 8 pin will get the gearing back to the original 7 pin 3/8 rim, but I have strong anticipation for the smaller 7 pin .325 rim also.
Lot's of torque potential in bigger wood with the little 7 pin as the 562 has lots of top end rpm already.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/21589/20150916_160638.jpg)
I am looking for a clutch drum for my 2260 that will accept small spline rims. Do you have a part number and where did you order from.
Is the part number 575261003?
I see my 2253 has that part number for its' clutch drum. :)
Thanks Brian
49er
Your 2260 should already be small 7 spline drum equipped .
I ordered the 575 26 10-01 drum and 505 20 08-01 oiler worm wheel for my standard 7 spline 562XP.
Quote from: HolmenTree on September 28, 2015, 03:32:48 PM
49er
Your 2260 should already be small 7 spline drum equipped .
I ordered the 575 26 10-01 drum and 505 20 08-01 oiler worm wheel for my standard 7 spline 562XP.
Nope, it is standard spline. However, when I want to try .325 on my 2260 I'll just use the drum off my 2253. Thanks
Quote from: 49er on September 28, 2015, 01:22:40 PM
Quote from: HolmenTree on September 23, 2015, 10:44:34 AM
Yesterday I gave the 562 with a .325 9pin rim sprocket and 18" 20LPX chain setup a good workout.
I found the 9 pin rim was too much for my stock 562 with muffler mod even with the smaller chain on a 18" bar.
I might as well go back to the full size 3/8 and run the smaller 7 pin rim.
So I ordered a 2260/560 sprocket drum and oiler worm gear and then run either a 7 or 8 pin .325 rim sprocket. The 8 pin will get the gearing back to the original 7 pin 3/8 rim, but I have strong anticipation for the smaller 7 pin .325 rim also.
Lot's of torque potential in bigger wood with the little 7 pin as the 562 has lots of top end rpm already.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/21589/20150916_160638.jpg)
I am looking for a clutch drum for my 2260 that will accept small spline rims. Do you have a part number and where did you order from.
Is the part number 575261003?
I see my 2253 has that part number for its' clutch drum. :)
Thanks Brian
Se reply 23 - 25, but note what HolmenTree said - check what already is on your saw.....
HolmenTree, you made them sound so good I had to get one.
:) :) :) :) :) :)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/20959/562_005.JPG)
Very nice.
All setup for the west coast, full skip chain included. :)
My OEM small 7 spline clutch drum and oiler worm gear came in today so now I can convert my 562 from a 9 pin standard 7 spline .325 rim sprocket to a 8 pin or 7 pin small 7 spline rim.
Can't try it out until next week as these weekend is Canadian Thanksgiving long weekend.
I also picked up some loops of the latest Stihl 23 RS .325 chisel chain. Man that's good looking chain!!! The drive links look like their chromed and the cutters don't have those annoying safety bumper links that the Oregon 20LPX has.
I was going to suggest to the last poster (losttheplot) try converting his new PNW 562XP to .325 with a loop of Stihl 23RS full skip on a 28" bar driving by a 7 or 8 pin .325 rim.......you may have a winner there in softwood production.
Quote from: HolmenTree on October 08, 2015, 09:59:39 PM
My OEM small 7 spline clutch drum and oiler worm gear came in today so now I can convert my 562 from a 9 pin standard 7 spline .325 rim sprocket to a 8 pin or 7 pin small 7 spline rim.
Can't try it out until next week as these weekend is Canadian Thanksgiving long weekend.
I also picked up some loops of the latest Stihl 23 RS .325 chisel chain. Man that's good looking chain!!! The drive links look like their chromed and the cutters don't have those annoying safety bumper links that the Oregon 20LPX has.
I was going to suggest to the last poster (losttheplot) try converting his new PNW 562XP to .325 with a loop of Stihl 23RS full skip on a 28" bar driving by a 7 or 8 pin .325 rim.......you may have a winner there in softwood production.
LPX still is faster and smoother than RS in .325 though, but the margin is small. It may be a factor that the upper part of the driver is .063 on the RS, and .058 on the LPX, so the RS cuts a wider kerf.
I am not buying any more RS chain in .325 after testing against LPX, but will happily use them in a pinch. Both are excellent chain!
HolmenTree, I am looking forward to a report on .325 with an 8 pin. My 2260 is ported by tlandrum and I may try this setup.
At breakfast this morning my logger buddy gave me his 562 that has seen three years of hard use. His cutter loves that saw. He said it was turning the chain at idle. I will have to check it out.
This is what the manual says about chain turning at idle:
WARNING! If the saw chain rotates while
idling, contact your servicing dealer. Do
not use the chain saw until it has been
properly adjusted or repaired.
Anyway, .325x8 will no doubt work fine, but not necessarily better than 3/8x7. The same applies to .325x9 vs. 3/8x8, with short bars (I haven't been able to try yet).
This is what the manual says about chain turning at idle:
WARNING! If the saw chain rotates while
idling, contact your servicing dealer. Do
not use the chain saw until it has been
properly adjusted or repaired.
Yep, that's why he gave it to me.
Quote from: SawTroll on October 09, 2015, 12:26:58 AM
Quote from: HolmenTree on October 08, 2015, 09:59:39 PM
My OEM small 7 spline clutch drum and oiler worm gear came in today so now I can convert my 562 from a 9 pin standard 7 spline .325 rim sprocket to a 8 pin or 7 pin small 7 spline rim.
Can't try it out until next week as these weekend is Canadian Thanksgiving long weekend.
I also picked up some loops of the latest Stihl 23 RS .325 chisel chain. Man that's good looking chain!!! The drive links look like their chromed and the cutters don't have those annoying safety bumper links that the Oregon 20LPX has.
I was going to suggest to the last poster (losttheplot) try converting his new PNW 562XP to .325 with a loop of Stihl 23RS full skip on a 28" bar driving by a 7 or 8 pin .325 rim.......you may have a winner there in softwood production.
LPX still is faster and smoother than RS in .325 though, but the margin is small. It may be a factor that the upper part of the driver is .063 on the RS, and .058 on the LPX, so the RS cuts a wider kerf.
I am not buying any more RS chain in .325 after testing against LPX, but will happily use them in a pinch. Both are excellent chain!
The Oregon LPX is not faster or smoother then the Stihl RS.
Maybe the LPX is smoother delimbing limbey spruce at half throttle but a tree is only properly delimbed at WOT. That design is outdated since introduced in the early 1970s, at a time when saws had much lower chain speeds and chain vibration was more noticeable.
The LPX drive link safety ramp is only an optical illusion just as the RS chain was 25 years ago with the ramp on top of the side link. These links add weight to the chain and reduce chip clearance in the kerf......reducing cutting speed.
Sure the Stihl chain has a .005" wider kerf but that very small difference isn't even noticeable, the RS still has the LPX beat in higher chain speed with the lighter chain and larger chip clearance
But the extra .005 thickness difference in strength is "huge", especially for a .325 chain.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/21589/20151009_093134-1.jpg)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/21589/20151009_113615.jpg)
Quote from: 49er on October 09, 2015, 09:40:50 AM
HolmenTree, I am looking forward to a report on .325 with an 8 pin. My 2260 is ported by tlandrum and I may try this setup.
At breakfast this morning my logger buddy gave me his 562 that has seen three years of hard use. His cutter loves that saw. He said it was turning the chain at idle. I will have to check it out.
Thanks, I'm looking forward to it too. But I may have one other test for the 562XP also.
A machinest friend of mine says he can enlarge the mini 7 spline bore of a 7 pin Picco rim sprocket to fit the Husqvarna small 7 spline clutch drum, then we'll see how the 63PS chisel chain works out.............
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/21589/20151009_092759.jpg)
Quote from: HolmenTree on October 09, 2015, 01:12:57 PM
The Oregon LPX is not faster or smoother then the Stihl RS.
Maybe the LPX is smoother delimbing limbey spruce at half throttle but a tree is only properly delimbed at WOT. That design is outdated since introduced in the early 1970s, at a time when saws had much lower chain speeds and chain vibration was more noticeable.
The LPX drive link safety ramp is only an optical illusion just as the RS chain was 25 years ago with the ramp on top of the side link. These links add weight to the chain and reduce chip clearance in the kerf......reducing cutting speed.
Sure the Stihl chain has a .005" wider kerf but that very small difference isn't even noticeable, the RS still has the LPX beat in higher chain speed with the lighter chain and larger chip clearance
But the extra .005 thickness difference in strength is "huge", especially for a .325 chain.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/21589/20151009_093134-1.jpg)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/21589/20151009_113615.jpg)
I totally disagree, look at how large the ramped rakers of the RS (and LGX) are, compared to the LP(X).
The ramps of the LP(X) doesn't interfere much with the cutting at all, except maybe with really long bars, where chip transport is an issue. I don't have any use for bars that long here (24" max, mainly 16 to 20").
I only limb at full throttle, and it is when limbing the difference in smoothness is most notisable. My wood usually are birch mixed with some other "hardwoods", so I can't really comment on conifers.
LPX is the best chain I have used hands down 8)
and how many times have I had a customer come in with a saw that has a 50 guage chain in a 58 guage bar...grrrr.
I don't know why they can't just make 1 width. The cut on everything is the same except for the new 95vp.
Chris
Quote from: SawTroll on October 09, 2015, 02:43:31 PM
Quote from: HolmenTree on October 09, 2015, 01:12:57 PM
The Oregon LPX is not faster or smoother then the Stihl RS.
Maybe the LPX is smoother delimbing limbey spruce at half throttle but a tree is only properly delimbed at WOT. That design is outdated since introduced in the early 1970s, at a time when saws had much lower chain speeds and chain vibration was more noticeable.
The LPX drive link safety ramp is only an optical illusion just as the RS chain was 25 years ago with the ramp on top of the side link. These links add weight to the chain and reduce chip clearance in the kerf......reducing cutting speed.
Sure the Stihl chain has a .005" wider kerf but that very small difference isn't even noticeable, the RS still has the LPX beat in higher chain speed with the lighter chain and larger chip clearance
But the extra .005 thickness difference in strength is "huge", especially for a .325 chain.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/21589/20151009_093134-1.jpg)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/21589/20151009_113615.jpg)
I totally disagree, look at how large the ramped rakers of the RS (and LGX) are, compared to the LP(X).
The ramps of the LP(X) doesn't interfere much with the cutting at all, except maybe with really long bars, where chip transport is an issue. I don't have any use for bars that long here (24" max, mainly 16 to 20").
Just an optical illusion SawTroll. The part of the chain that determines how smooth it cuts is not the ramp alongside the depth gauge in the center line of the chain between the left hand and right hand cutters.
It's the design of the depth gauge that makes contact in the kerf of the cut as the cutter bit does its cutting action.
Go back and look at how smooth and sloped the RS depth gauge is and how blunt and verticle standing the LPX depth gauge is. The drive link ramp in the center of the chain is not protecting the sides of that blunt depth gauge in the saw cut kerf in the log or on a tree branch.
The cutter's depth gauges naturally spread outwards while under torque in the wood causing resistance on the sides of the kerf wall .
Also for kickback potential when a new unfiled LPX depth gauge is in the kickback zone of the bar nose upper quadrant the ramp is no longer protecting the upper portion of the verticle depth gauge.
In that same position the RS and LGX ramped depth gauge is always offering a large smooth low kickback contour.
Smoother depth gauge contour equals less vibration and kickback energy ;)
Quote from: 346xp on October 09, 2015, 08:30:12 PM
LPX is the best chain I have used hands down 8)
Good advice from a guy who thinks a chain should make chips in the diagonal cut of a open face cut :D
Whatever!! 8) you are the Chainsaw god LOL
Just an update I have here for my 562XP upgrade.
El Nino has other plans and we're getting lots of unseasonably warm weather with rain. So it's stay at home and getting stuff done around home and the shop.
I thought I'd share a few pics of a cottonwood removal I did last week for a customer.
I felled 2 stems here into my customers back yard, after felling the first I thought this would be a great photo shoot for the members on Forestry Forum showing what my 562 and 395XP are up against.
Heavy side lean and back lean over the house on both trees with lots of one sided limb weight, so this job called for a taunt 90° to lay guyline on both trees .
Along with a pull line.
BTW that 28" b/c on my 395XP is 23 years old kept in shape with regular maintenance :)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/21589/20151005_111031.jpg)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/21589/20151005_111117.jpg)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/21589/20151005_114552.jpg)
I'm not sure what happened to the middle pic ??? But here's a better view of it.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/21589/20151005_111117~0.jpg)
Quote from: HolmenTree on October 09, 2015, 11:29:18 PM
Just an optical illusion SawTroll. The part of the chain that determines how smooth it cuts is not the ramp alongside the depth gauge in the center line of the chain between the left hand and right hand cutters.
It's the design of the depth gauge that makes contact in the kerf of the cut as the cutter bit does its cutting action.
Go back and look at how smooth and sloped the RS depth gauge is and how blunt and verticle standing the LPX depth gauge is. The drive link ramp in the center of the chain is not protecting the sides of that blunt depth gauge in the saw cut kerf in the log or on a tree branch.
The cutter's depth gauges naturally spread outwards while under torque in the wood causing resistance on the sides of the kerf wall .
Also for kickback potential when a new unfiled LPX depth gauge is in the kickback zone of the bar nose upper quadrant the ramp is no longer protecting the upper portion of the verticle depth gauge.
In that same position the RS and LGX ramped depth gauge is always offering a large smooth low kickback contour.
Smoother depth gauge contour equals less vibration and kickback energy ;)
Regardless, it is a fact that the LP/LPX is the smoothest and ime fastest option. The differences are more notisable in .325 than in 3/8" (no LGX in .325).
Anyway, the differences are too small to be of any practical consequence, so I happily use LP/LPX, LGX and RSC/RS. :)
Holmentree looks like you put it right where it needed to go. Three weeks ago i cut a black oak for a friend, tree was about 18" dbh, in his yard and leaning over his outside wood furnace. I bored it and put two wedges in the backcut, cut out a v and jacked it over with a 20 ton bottle jack. About midway through cutting out the v he asked me if i was nervous, as he'd never saw this done before. I laughed and said no i'm not nervous, its not my furnace. It all went as planned, now we both laugh about it, but at the time he was very nervous.
I definitely agree it takes a certain level of confidence to safely fell a tree within a residential setting. Most commonly attained from years of logging experience, something the arborist who ends up climbing the tree doesn't have.
But that's where similarities ends......as logging felling techniques with hydraulic jacks etc. stays in the forest.
Not practical in urban tree removal. ;)
I don't cut trees that could damage someone else's property. I know my limitations.
;)
Quote from: 49er on October 15, 2015, 04:15:31 PM
I don't cut trees that is could damage someone else's property. I know my limitations.
;)
Haha, I have no choice but to be in business to remove other people's trees. Best paying occupation I've ever had too BTW.
So I just keep on doing it. ;D
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/21589/20151015_152403-1-1.jpg)
I know my limitations also, if i wasn't certain i could cut the tree without damaging his property it would still be standing.
;)
[/quote]
Haha, I have no choice but to be in business to remove other people's trees. Best paying occupation I've ever had too BTW.
So I just keep on doing it. ;D
[/quote]
Does it pay better than logging?
If I were in the tree removal business I would target areas like the east end of Louisville. Ya need to work where the money is. :D
A little training and experience using a Bigshot slingshot with 2 mm throw line on a 14oz weight bag will get any guyline or pull rope up into the top of any tree while you're standing on the ground.
A 3 ton cast iron ratchet puller, Maasdam rope puller or a truck pulling the " right size" rope on a block or pulley redirect will get any tree down.
But knowing how to do the "stick trick" to measure a tree's height to fit the lay space is your first limitation.
Judging side lean and using a drywall T square to gunsight the face cut to target finishes the job.
Quote from: 49er on October 16, 2015, 09:23:32 AM
;)
Does it pay better than logging?
If I were in the tree removal business I would target areas like the east end of Louisville. Ya need to work where the money is. :D
Yes 49er it does pay better then logging. I should have gotten into arborist work a lot earlier then I did.
But I'm very thankyou of my experience logging as a faller and skidder operator, without that I would have a lot less experience today.
I've heard stories of tree guys in the big city earning in the 6 figures a year doing seasonal work working solo with just a pickup truck , chainsaw and some climbing gear.....that was 20 years ago. I guess if you're in a customer base with about a million people anythings possible.
Last month in our nearby lakeside cottage neighborhoods I had a customer hire me to remove a 60 ft cottonwood heavily leaning over her garage.
She showed me a quote a big city power line clearance contractor gave her to just get it on the ground with their bucket truck. ........ $1500 :o no cleanup!
I got it safely on the ground just standing on the ground the way I explained in my last post for $300 and took me 20 minutes.
She was happy enough to give me another $1000 bucks of work to finish the afternoon off with ............I earned about as much with another customer earlier that morning.
Just putting trees on the ground, no bucking or cleanup.
In our city all my jobs mostly include cleanup where I then use my chipper and stump grinder.
Forget logging, leave the forest and head to the cities, towns or cottage country :)
.
Good post Holmen. The money my be in the city but I won't live there.
Quote from: 49er on October 16, 2015, 12:07:01 PM
Good post Holmen. The money my be in the city but I won't live there.
Thanks 49er, I couldn't live in the big city either. My city is only about 14,000 and that's big enough for me.
Sorry everyone for my long winded derail....I decided to take some time off to finish up some outdoor work before winter sets in.
Will get back to the 562xp upgrade in a bit.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/21589/20151016_120412.jpg)
Found some time to get the small 7 spline drum and worm wheel on the 562. I just discovered I got the 575 26 10-03 drum kit with a .325 -7 pin rim. I looked high and low in my parts and I don't have a .325- 8 pin rim. Will have to re order some rims.
The 7 pin .325 rim being a smaller gearing then the 7 pin 3/8 should pull a 28" .325 b/c really nice.
Here's a pic of some of my rims I dug out, everything from 9 pin 1/4" up to 13 pin 3/8".
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/21589/20151016_182007.jpg)
Holmen...its only because you can file a saw better than most that you get away with those 325 chains.
ha ha
Regards Chris
I don't know Chris :D I think there's enough chain filing competition for me from lots of members on here.
I sure like the looks of the new Stihl 23RS .325 chain......Too bad Oregon can't put in the effort to make a comparable chain.
Last picture shows Oregon 's outdated dinosaur 20LPX.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/21589/20151009_093134-1.jpg)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/21589/20151009_113615.jpg)
Oregon is actually working on a new chain. They sent us some bars and chains for testing last year and again a month ago.
Your not going to like them though...semi chisel...looks like the 95VP chain.
To tell the truth that's where the market is at. Its all consumer driven.
Not a lot of professional cutters, mostly harvesters when your dealing with a lot of wood.
You have to admit, not many young people trying to take your job.
As far as being able to file a chain. Go to a saw shop, take a coffee with you for the wrench and ask to look at the chains on customers saws. If that does not make you scared nothing will.
Regards Chris
Holeman tree I have to agree the stihl chain is a better chain Ii used a loop yesterday it cuts like its angry at the wood my new go to chain thanks for the tips I love it on my 346xp its fast and smooth!!!! 8)
Be interesting to see how well the new Husky chain works when it comes on the market .
Quote from: 346xp on October 17, 2015, 11:55:30 AM
Holeman tree I have to agree the stihl chain is a better chain Ii used a loop yesterday it cuts like its angry at the wood my new go to chain thanks for the tips I love it on my 346xp its fast and smooth!!!! 8)
You're welcome 346, but don't think I'm only pushing Stihl chain. I'm only making suggestions Oregon should develop an alternative .325 chain for the 60cc and under saw market.
If they can't then they should bring back the 76-77LG 3/8" low profile. Smoothest, safest and most versatile adaptable chisel chain out there for the 60cc and under market.
Quote from: HolmenTree on October 16, 2015, 09:23:45 PM
I don't know Chris :D I think there's enough chain filing competition for me from lots of members on here.
I sure like the looks of the new Stihl 23RS .325 chain......Too bad Oregon can't put in the effort to make a comparable chain.
Last picture shows Oregon 's outdated dinosaur 20LPX.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/21589/20151009_093134-1.jpg)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/21589/20151009_113615.jpg)
I like the "dinosaur" better, it is both faster and smoother in the cut + the cutters are longer. I'm not going to buy any more RS in .325.
In .058 and .050, the LPX cuts a narrower kerf than RS.
I will have to say all the current chains will cut when new.
Its how they cut when half worn out and sharpened by a less than professional user.
can they be sharpened easily without a handful of special guides that only a few folks really know how to use.
I sometimes tell my customers (the ones that know me) that I could outcut them with a saw half the size of the 1 they are using. That makes for an interesting conversation.
A 10 th of a second here and there does not add up to much in a pile of firewood.
However a chain that is easily sharpened in a few minutes will get you back to work in that pile of firewood quicker.
We now return to your regular scheduled program.
Chris
I know several cutters in my area who swear the chain from the Husqvarna dealer stays sharper longer than Oregon chain from the hardware store. I tell them it is the same but they say no. :-\
Quote from: SawTroll on October 17, 2015, 12:44:28 PM
I like the "dinosaur" better, it is both faster and smoother in the cut + the cutters are longer. I'm not going to buy any more RS in .325.
In .058 and .050, the LPX cuts a narrower kerf than RS.
Quote from: SawTroll on October 14, 2015, 07:38:10 PM
Regardless, it is a fact that the LP/LPX is the smoothest and ime fastest option. The differences are more notisable in .325 than in 3/8" (no LGX in .325).
Anyway, the differences are too small to be of any practical consequence, so I happily use LP/LPX, LGX and RSC/RS. :)
Niko Niko, you sound like a broken record. But as your last 2 posts show you change your thinking quickly :D
You're saying the .050-.058 Oregon chain cuts a narrower kerf then the Stihl RS chain but seeing the Oregon cutter is longer then the Stihl's that makes it wider thus making a wider kerf.
Anyways I had the 23RS and the 20LPX chain side by side in the vise today and I can see the Oregon doesn't cut a narrower kerf just from looking at the 2 side by side.
I got my digital caliper out and 2 straight edges to measure each other's width but the darn calipers LR44 battery was dead.
Tomorrow is another day. ;D
Quote from: snowshoveler on October 17, 2015, 11:39:59 AM
Oregon is actually working on a new chain. They sent us some bars and chains for testing last year and again a month ago.
Your not going to like them though...semi chisel...looks like the 95VP chain.
To tell the truth that's where the market is at. Its all consumer driven.
Not a lot of professional cutters, mostly harvesters when your dealing with a lot of wood.
You have to admit, not many young people trying to take your job.
As far as being able to file a chain. Go to a saw shop, take a coffee with you for the wrench and ask to look at the chains on customers saws. If that does not make you scared nothing will.
Regards Chris
Todays professional market is the arboriculture urban forestry industry. Where logging used to take one out of three saws sold , the urban loggers are taking it on and their spending power will only grow......especially with increasing climate change .
Oregon can make a bundle selling consumer chain but companies like Stihl have the capacity and thinking to always improvise and produce a product for everyone.
Interesting note was Stihl used to sell their saws to the North American market with Oregon chains as their chain plant couldn't keep up demand. Not until 1971 when their expanded chain plant was in full production along with the introduction of the Oil-O-Matic drive link were they were able to sell their saws with their own chain in North America.
This might be a good reminder for Husqvarna to look at making their own chain ;)
Copied your muffler mod.
https://youtu.be/vsKBqmpO9Zc
Looking good! It didn't miss a beat and would have produced major heat if the muffler was stock.
How did it restart after you shut it down?
Restart was much better. That is one of the first 562's sold in my area. I have the very 1st jonsered 2260 my dealer sold.
Quote from: 49er on October 17, 2015, 06:28:00 PM
I know several cutters in my area who swear the chain from the Husqvarna dealer stays sharper longer than Oregon chain from the hardware store. I tell them it is the same but they say no. :-\
It still is the same, but that may not be the case in the future - Huskys chain factory in Europe should become operational this year, but I haven't seen any trace of the products yet.
Admittedly, I am a bit worried about what they come up with.
Quote from: SawTroll on October 18, 2015, 11:10:14 AM
Quote from: 49er on October 17, 2015, 06:28:00 PM
I know several cutters in my area who swear the chain from the Husqvarna dealer stays sharper longer than Oregon chain from the hardware store. I tell them it is the same but they say no. :-\
It still is the same, but that may not be the case in the future - Huskys chain factory in Europe should become operational this year, but I haven't seen any trace of the products yet.
Admittedly, I am a bit worried about what they come up with.
Niko, do you think the Husqvarna chain plant will have enough production to supply the North American market?
Have you heard anything about their South American division getting on board with the chain ?
A year or 2 ago when the American and Canadian divisions of Husqvarna merged...they were seriously pizzed at Oregon because someone (management) did not understand that you need to order product almost a year in advance. We had bar and chain backorders for a very long time. Not many saws sold with a Husky branded bar or chain. We actually still don't have enough of the bars to equip every saw with its proper Husky branded bar.
Good thing we have access to 2 other suppliers of Oregon product. We never ran out but came close a few times.
The way we purchase Husqvarna , its better for us the more we buy. So when we have to source 10 grand of product elsewhere we loose points.
Hopefully they will be able to fill in the gaps with the European product.
Time will tell if its good or not.
The price of it will be a big factor.
Regards Chris
Quote from: HolmenTree on October 18, 2015, 11:35:41 AM
Niko, do you think the Husqvarna chain plant will have enough production to supply the North American market?
Have you heard anything about their South American division getting on board with the chain ?
No, I know nothing about that, or which kinds of chain will be made there.
Thanks guys for the information .
My Husky dealer here out west seems to be moving a fair ammont of product up here with good support from the Alberta distributor. Just might be a regional thing.
We lost our Moncton warehouse earlier this year.
Everything now comes out of Ontario with a bit of leftovers coming from Alberta.
To say they are slow is an understatement.
2 weeks to get our snowblower booking is not impressive to me.
Saws and parts not on a booking order are about a week if not back orderd.
I think it's just an east coast thing because the warehouse employees look after their region first.
Can't say I blame them.
Now if I could just teach the management at Husqvarna how to use a calendar I would be happy.
They need to know that late summer and early fall is the time to have saws available with heated handles.
Off my soapbox for now.
Regards Chris
Quote from: snowshoveler on October 18, 2015, 06:22:50 PM
We lost our Moncton warehouse earlier this year.
Everything now comes out of Ontario with a bit of leftovers coming from Alberta.
To say they are slow is an understatement.
2 weeks to get our snowblower booking is not impressive to me.
Saws and parts not on a booking order are about a week if not back orderd.
I think it's just an east coast thing because the warehouse employees look after their region first.
Can't say I blame them.
Now if I could just teach the management at Husqvarna how to use a calendar I would be happy.
They need to know that late summer and early fall is the time to have saws available with heated handles.
Off my soapbox for now.
Regards Chrvis
Chris, I applied for a job at that Moncton warehouse in 1989 :D
In '89 I went west as Stihl hired me that summer to push the 044 at the Alberta branch.
My red headed Cape Breton girlfriend named Kelly Ann who was a RN nurse here in Manitoba never joined me , but went back to Nova Scotia to work in Halifax.
Well later that fall my branch manager Steve Meriam let me take 2 weeks holidays as I was owed , so I was off to Nova Scotia.
Steve told me to take my company vehicle which was a 1988 Chevy Blazer but I declined and said I'd make better time with my '88 Daytona Shelby Z.
Well as I got out there things didn't work out for me and Kelly as she said she's not going back out west.
On the way home I stopped at the Jonsered distributor in Moncton, New Brunswick and told the manager (can't remember his name) that I'm working for Stihl Canada but I'm looking for a job here on the east coast.
He offered me a job in Newfoundland as a sales/tech rep but he said he'd talk to my boss Fred Whyte first (Fred was Stihl Canada's president at the time and is now presently Stihl USA'S president ).
On the way home back west from Moncton I call Steve from a pay phone as we had no cell phones back then.. :D.....Steve says to me " Fred just called and asked if you're coming back!!"
Holmen
I am sure you would have been an asset to the Husqvarna Moncton team.
However very few of the people working there stayed any length of time.
That was when Mcquette ran eastern Canada.
Its all run by Husky themselves and they still have a problem retaining employees.
They just lost another manager for the east.
Chris
Update.
I've been busy trying to catch up and finish my numerous stump jobs before our first winter snow comes.
I took this 80 ft spruce down today but the 562 had no part of it, only my 372XP-24" and 338XPT-16" had the honors to take it down. I got up 40 ft on spurs and a strong NW wind was blowing me around all over the place plus being 10 ft from a powerline grid I decided just to top it at 16" diameter.
Heading to the big city tomorrow for a 6 day visit and will be doing tree work for the in-laws, will get a chance to run the 562 then .
Next week I'll test the 562 with various sizes of sprockets and chain timed with a stop watch in some left over square wood from last winters chainsaw competition.
Really curious to see how the saw pulls chips with the 7 pin .325 rim.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/21589/20151019_122147.jpg)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/21589/20151019_142456-1.jpg)
Quote from: HolmenTree on October 19, 2015, 09:08:33 PM
Next week I'll test the 562 with various sizes of sprockets and chain timed with a stop watch in some left over square wood from last winters chainsaw competition.
Really curious to see how the saw pulls chips with the 7 pin .325 rim.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/21589/20151019_122147.jpg)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/21589/20151019_142456-1.jpg)
I would think the 562 would do best with an 8 pin and .325 chain. My ported 550 pulls an 8 pin .325 very well.
Quote from: 49er on October 19, 2015, 10:16:14 PM
Quote from: HolmenTree on October 19, 2015, 09:08:33 PM
Next week I'll test the 562 with various sizes of sprockets and chain timed with a stop watch in some left over square wood from last winters chainsaw competition.
Really curious to see how the saw pulls chips with the 7 pin .325 rim.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/21589/20151019_122147.jpg)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/21589/20151019_142456-1.jpg)
I would think the 562 would do best with an 8 pin and .325 chain. My ported 550 pulls an 8 pin .325 very well.
49er,
My 562 is stock besides a muffler mod and it's got 1500 hours on it so it's probably making the same h.p.as your ported 550XP.
I want more members here like nlogga who previously posted with his 562XP muffler mod.
I need more feed back on the muffler mod helping eliminate hot start flooding issues.
I have lots of dry 10"X 14" white spruce to test the 7 and 8 pin .325 rims on for the best cross-cutting times, and I'll time the 3/8 72LG with 7 pin rim too.
Stay tuned.......
I am waiting impatiently. :)
My wws2260 is down awaiting a clutch from Spike60. I robbed it to put on my buddies 562.
He wore the clutch out in just 3 years of steady logging. When I get it going I could do some timed cuts between the different set ups and post it. If that is ok with you Holmen.
Quote from: 49er on October 20, 2015, 09:33:53 AM
I am waiting impatiently. :)
My wws2260 is down awaiting a clutch from Spike60. I robbed it to put on my buddies 562.
He wore the clutch out in just 3 years. When I get it going I could do some timed cuts between the different set ups and post it. If that is ok with you Holmen.
Yes by all means post what you can of your tests 49er .
My only problem is videos, my 12 year old daughter can help me there as she has already made a few YouTube videos on baking cakes :D
Got myself into another project ;D
Busy putting up a 12 ftx24ft portable garage for my chipper dump trailer.
The 562 test wood timbers are still under wrap sitting in the backyard.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/21589/20151029_140247.jpg)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/21589/20151029_140523.jpg)
Got 'er done just in time, snow tonight. Now back to the 562XP Upgrades. :laugh:
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/21589/20151029_174801.jpg)
Did a muffler mod like Holmentrees on a 562xp yesterday, haven't got to put it in the wood yet. Throttle response on this saw was great before the mod, seems even "snappier" now. I'll report back after i use it cutting. Hot starts were sometimes an issue with this saw if the procedures weren't followed.
Did the same muffler mod on my Jonsered 2260. I drilled one 5/16 hole and two 1/4 holes. This vid the saw is pulling a 3/8 24" .058 oregon chain in hardwood
https://youtu.be/aGyqxVu_uDw
Same Jonsered 2260 hot start and noodlin hardwood
https://youtu.be/JixiEl2e3WU
nlogga, I like the look of that Jonsered. Good looking saw.
Next time you do a video of steady cutting can you shut the saw off at the finish and then restart it without touching the switch or putting it on fast idle? Just to show how it's helped the hot start flooding issues.
I haven't touched my 562 for a while now , weather is a bit crappy and my kids and Halloween have kept me busy.
Will.get back on it this week.
Quote from: HolmenTree on October 31, 2015, 10:59:33 PM
nlogga, I like the look of that Jonsered. Good looking saw.
Next time you do a video of steady cutting can you shut the saw off at the finish and then restart it without touching the switch or putting it on fast idle? Just to show how it's helped the hot start flooding issues.
I haven't touched my 562 for a while now , weather is a bit crappy and my kids and Halloween have kept me busy.
Will.get back on it this week.
Can do. May be awhile before I have any more cutting to do.
Quote from: HolmenTree on October 31, 2015, 10:59:33 PM
I haven't touched my 562 for a while now , weather is a bit crappy and my kids and Halloween have kept me busy.
Will.get back on it this week.
I am still waiting on a clutch for my 2260.
Blame it on your kids! I bet your one of those big kids that still goes tricker-treating. With a deep voice. ;)
Quote from: 49er on November 01, 2015, 07:48:21 PM
Quote from: HolmenTree on October 31, 2015, 10:59:33 PM
I haven't touched my 562 for a while now , weather is a bit crappy and my kids and Halloween have kept me busy.
Will.get back on it this week.
I am still waiting on a clutch for my 2260.
Blame it on your kids! I bet your one of those big kids that still goes tricker-treating. With a deep voice. ;)
Haha :D Yeah I have to use my deep voice when my little trick or treaters don't watch for traffic when we're doing the candy run.
Here's my 8 year twin daughters all ready to go trick or treating Halloween night.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/21589/20151031_181353.jpg)
Got to run the muffler modded 562xp yesterday, ran it in some 20" white oak and some smaller hickory. This saw cut good before, but it is noticeably stronger now, especially in limbing wood 12" and smaller. This saw would sometimes hot start without doing the hot start procedure, other times it wouldn't , before the muffler mod. I tried it several times yesterday to see and it is still the same. I ran it yesterday 5 minutes wot cutting cookies to reset the autotune. It cuts faster than it did, but it hasn't healed the hot start, i'll run it some more and see if anything changes.
Thanks for the update Pine Ridge . Summer hot weather was over when I did my muffler mod but I did notice an improvement in starting after long heavy bucking on a warm day.
I'm back doing residential tree removal tomorrow morning. I have a few 100 ft tall large diameter spruce to take down.
I'm going to run the 562XP with 7 pin .325 rim with Stihl 23RS chain on a 18" Cannon Super Mini bar.
El Nino has been offering some amazing mild weather here in Manitoba at this time of the year.
I got all my winter prep things done for around my home now and now back to making an income. Looks like I may have a good winter working without extreme cold freezing temperatures.
-Here are pictures of a muffler mod I did on a 359 I think! I used a condulet cover. I really can't decide if it turned out hokey:o or cool 8) but the owner liked it.
I also gutted the internal baffle.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/40721/P1010024_zps3598862f.JPG)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/40721/P1010028_zps955227c2.JPG)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/40721/P1010030_zps724e60c4.JPG)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/40721/P1010033-1_zps4558382c.JPG)
Very nice job 49er. Clean, smooth and compact design.
I got the 562XP with 560XP/2260 small 7 spline clutch drum and 7 pin .325 rim to work today. The 560/2260 oiler worm gear was too thin for the longer 562 crank stub so I just reused the 562 worm gear which works fine with the 560/2260 drum.
Put it to work today with the Stihl .325 23RS chain on a customer's 5 oversized spruce trees.
The 7 pin .325 rim is a gear lower then the 3/8" 7pin rim and the first thing I noticed was the increased torque in the 562.
I had a whole new saw in my hands with that little rim.....now to try a 28" b/c on the saw that the factory rated the saw for. The .325-28" b/c will have a lot more grunt from what I see all ready. Limbing speed with the little rim was not slowed down at all as speed stayed steady in the larger limbs that would normally slow down a 7 pin 3/8 setup.
I still have to do a timed test bucking cookies off some square timbers comparing all the different rims and chains on the 562.
But I highly recommend 562 owner's to try the little 7 pin .325 rim ....you won't be disappointed.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/21589/20151104_143014.jpg)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/21589/20151104_144735-1.jpg)
Great info HolmenTree. I got a small mount bar 24inch bar with a .325 nose sprocket I think I'll give it a worl on my 2260. Do ya know how many drive links a .325-24 inch bar takes?
I cut down a couple 24inch Poplars tonight. One the beavers ate the bark off and the other was going bad at the base. I have been concentrating on Ash because they are all dead and dying.
Dem Spruce trees sure grow tall. They are a rarity around here.
Quote from: 49er on November 04, 2015, 10:29:21 PM
Great info HolmenTree. I got a small mount bar 24inch bar with a .325 nose sprocket I think I'll give it a worl on my 2260. Do ya know how many drive links a .325-24 inch bar takes?
I cut down a couple 24inch Poplars tonight. One the beavers ate the bark off and the other was going bad at the base. I have been concentrating on Ash because they are all dead and dying.
Dem Spruce trees sure grow tall. They are a rarity around here.
The only info I found on that said 92dl (Sugihara bar listing from the UK).
.325 on 60cc saws are much more common there than in North America.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/21589/20151104_141246.jpg)
49er, your 24" bar will take 95 DL in .325 chain.
If your cutting softwood conifer or poplar/cottonwood try .325 full skip on that 24".
Oregon has full skip .325 called 20JPX and Stihl's is 23RSF.
Yes we have some big spruce out here in northern Manitoba. The trees I felled yesterday are in the neighborhood of 140 years old and over 100 ft tall.
Here's a pic of a smaller one I cut , notice the tight growth ring spacing . I counted approximately 140 ring years which is a old tree for only 24" diameter. I've cut black spruce here as old but are only about 6 inch in diameter.
Tough trees to cut because of their tight grain with less springwood, that's the main reason we run larger powerheads on short bars here when logging on piecework rate.
. Notice the patch of dark brown coloring of the rings in the one side of stump, that in lumber grading terms is called compression wood. That's the side of the tree where heavy lean puts pressure on the fibre causing a dense brittle fibre , which degrades kiln dried lumber causing twist /crook warp and glass like fibre that will shatter if a nail is driven into it.
The Sugi bar I referred to likely is a specially made .325 bar, so it may not be representative for what a converted 84dl 3/8" bar will need.
My maths put me midway between 93 and 94 dl, using .367 vs. .325.
My chain breaker guide puts it between a 94 and 95 DL .325 converted from a 84DL 3/8 chain (24" bar)
Quote from: HolmenTree on November 04, 2015, 09:59:33 PM....
I got the 562XP with 560XP/2260 small 7 spline clutch drum and 7 pin .325 rim to work today. .....
There are of course a couple of other rims that fits the small 7-spline;
- .325x8, 505 30 36-72 (Husky part number)
- 3/8"x7, 504 52 30-02.
The .325x8 is of course the more interesting one, in this context.
So many options to have fun with, and I haven't been able to cut with my 560xpg yet, due to skeleton related issues and 3x major surgery....
I hope you get better soon Niko
Once you get back cutting it'll get you back into shape quick.
This GB bar takes 92 links. Go down a page for more specs.
http://leftcoastsupplies.com/product/24-gb-pro-top-bar-325-050/
Quote from: HolmenTree on November 05, 2015, 11:23:14 PM
My chain breaker guide puts it between a 94 and 95 DL .325 converted from a 84DL 3/8 chain (24" bar)
I converted my 24 inch powermatch bar from 3/8 to 325. HolmenTree was wright 95dl.
I ran it yesterday on my 2260 with 8pin and the small spline drum off my 2253. Drums are interchangeable between the two models. However, the 2253 is a two shoe clutch vs 3 shoe for the 2260.
I was cutting 12 inch to 24 inch ash. My immediate impression was smooooth. The 24 inch bar makes the saw just a little nose heavy. The saw has plenty of power and chain speed. I would like to do a video comparing 8pin to 9pin. I already have a 9 pin rim. However, I have never done a video.
I measured the cutter width of 325 and 375 and only .010 difference in the Oregon chain I use. I have 8 more ash trees to cut, all are dying. What a national tragedy. :'(
Sounds like you had some fun with your 2260 49er :laugh:
I'm confused but isn't the 2260 a small mount with a small 7 spline drum ?
If you can rustle up a 7 pin .325 rim give it a try too. I noticed a big difference between the 9 and 7 pin bucking and felling big wood with a new chain.
I haven't measured the cutter differences but I will as I have a new battery for my caliper now
Like you said a .010" difference on cutter width but when you double that .020 is a good thickness of kerf to power through.
I took the morning off and going to do some timed cookie cutting on different b/c's. Won't be a video though as my YouTube 12 year old expert is in school . But will see if I can get some video made on the weekend.
No cookie cutting today, I got a call from a customer to cut some real trees so will have to leave the 562 testing for tomorrow.
Hopefully my 12 year old can make a good video. ;D
Yes, 2260 is small mount but mine came with standard spline drum. Now my 2253 came with small spline. I swapped them yesterday.
When I get time I will do timed cuts with 7,8,and 9 pin rims.
AH HA, I did not think to double the width so the kerf will be .020 wider. And the bar is the same width. Obviously it works.
I am predicting on my saw 7 pin will be slower. But speed isn't everything.
One last thing, the 3 shoe clutch should on the 2260 should interchange with the 2 shoe on the 2253.
Quote from: 49er on November 06, 2015, 10:08:22 PM
AH HA, I did not think to double the width so the kerf will be .020 wider. And the bar is the same width. Obviously it works.
I am predicting on my saw 7 pin will be slower. But speed isn't everything.
49er I'm not sure what you mean about the bar being the same width.
Yes the 7 pin may be slower but in the real world things like knots in the wood take the speed out of a sawchain. Better to have the extra umph to power through these annoyances , BTW the 2260 and 562 have lots of top end rpm to spare....... so a lower gear is only going to improve their capabilities in normal cutting.
Quote from: HolmenTree on November 06, 2015, 10:44:29 PM
..... BTW the 2260 and 562 have lots of top end rpm to spare....... so a lower gear is only going to improve their capabilities in normal cutting.
That's an interesting thought - I haven't been able to test it out on the 560xpg yet, for health reasons.
I have planned to do it though, and have all that is needed to test everything from .325x7 to 3/8"x8.
I doubt there is a universal answer though, as a lot of factors will be in play...
Perfect day today to do some testing with the 562XP, but unfortunately some out of town visitors showed up for the day and my wife figured it would be rude if I ignored them.
Yesterday (Saturday ) I was already to go but my 12 year daughter who is my chief YouTube video producer had to go and do a school project at her friends house.
Now it's 4 pm getting dark as a snow storm is coming in. Everything ready to go .
Stay tuned. ::)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/21589/20151108_161328.jpg)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/21589/20151108_161349-1.jpg)
Quote from: SawTroll on November 08, 2015, 02:28:20 PM
Quote from: HolmenTree on November 06, 2015, 10:44:29 PM
..... BTW the 2260 and 562 have lots of top end rpm to spare....... so a lower gear is only going to improve their capabilities in normal cutting.
That's an interesting thought - I haven't been able to test it out on the 560xpg yet, for health reasons.
I have planned to do it though, and have all that is needed to test everything from .325x7 to 3/8"x8.
I doubt there is a universal answer though, as a lot of factors will be in play...
Niko, winter must be coming your way too.
It sure would be nice to see some photos of you running that 560XPG,
Are you doing any kind of rehab treatments to get mobile again? Your country has some of the best health care in the world.
I'm sure there are many member's on this forum and others who wish you the best and are a bit worried about you.........all the best my friend.
On the subject of small rim sprockets, my 395XP came from the factory with a 7 pin 3/8" rim sprocket. I tried larger ones but came back to the 7 pin as the factory made the right decision what the saw was designed for equipped with a 32" b/c.
Fall and winter is fighting here at the moment, around Zero Celsius/32F, and neither snow nor rain.
The health system here is far from perfect, although you don't have to pay for hospital treatment. They kick you out fast though, and then you mainly are on your own. It all is about saving money.
Excellent thread! Lots of valuable info and insight .
Thanks Andre,
Ok everyone here's my first YouTube videos ever. My daughter and I put these 2 together with my 1500 hour 2012 stock Husqvarna 562XP with a mild muffler mod and a .325 chain. Never had the cylinder removed.
A little nervous after 3cups of coffee and the neighbor watching over the fence :D
First video I'm running a 8 pin rim. Wrong information as I said 2007 model when I meant to say 2012 (was thinking of my 372) :D Also said 33RS when it was actually a 23RS chain. Chain is brand new with a light touch up with the 3/16" file.
Time was 10.49 seconds
http://youtu.be/AB8dESv8ux8
Second video with 7 pin rim with a slower time of 11.04. Did cut a long knot in the 1st cut though. Plus my daughter didn't give me a lot of time to get focused and ready.....you can see who's the boss :D :D
http://youtu.be/TMjQ95HdfbY
A member on Another Site had a thread on wanting to know if you could run .325 on a 562. I was able to tell him it had been done after reading this thread.
Quote from: rburg on November 16, 2015, 03:23:16 PM
A member on Another Site had a thread on wanting to know if you could run .325 on a 562. I was able to tell him it had been done after reading this thread.
Thanks rburg, steer them all over here.
They all love me over at that site :D :)
As you can see big long knot between 1st and 2nd cookie. So we'll have a re-run and then go onto the 9 pin .325 rim.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/21589/20151116_144614.jpg)
Re-run for the 7pin rim test. This time knot free and time of 9.97 from last time of 11.04 iwith the knot. Over a second gained, over the day and weeks in thousands of cuts those seconds add up.
Goes to show how critical knots are.
The 8 pin rim time was 10.49.
I still have yet to time the 7pin with a 28" b/c in the bigger 14"x10" timber I have. This is where the small rim will shine.
I ran out of time today to test the 9 pin .325 rim and then onto the 28" b/c but I'll see what I can do in the next day or two.
Here's today's last test. Still got the dogs òn the saw so a little touchy settling into the first cut and into the up cut.
http://youtu.be/ROLWSJWyJwQ
Is the trailer you are cutting on one you use for competition? Does the .325 cut smoother than the 3/8 chain on the 562? It seems like the 560 comes stock with .325 in some areas of the world.
Quote from: rburg on November 16, 2015, 05:43:00 PM
Is the trailer you are cutting on one you use for competition? Does the .325 cut smoother than the 3/8 chain on the 562? It seems like the 560 comes stock with .325 in some areas of the world.
Yes that's the competition stage trailer I built for my winter festival competitions that I run.
I my self haven't been competitive for over 10 years or is it 15 :D
When I was in my prime I was alot quicker, but I think with a little practice I could still make a good run at it.....especially in the hotsaw event which I liked doing the best.
Yes the .325 is a lot smoother then the 3/8. That speed test between the two I'll do in the days to come.
As I mentioned I still have the dogs on the saw, which tend to snag a bit at the start of my first cut and my up cuts.
As I'm still using this saw for work I forgot to switch the dogs over to the smooth bumper pad.
With the smooth bumper there's no air between my cuts. ;D
Pretty slick cutting. I'd probably fumble the saw right off the trailer.
Anxious to see how the 9 pin works and your opinion on which is best for every day use.
Your 562 in running a large spline .325 rim or small spline?
As to 32RS .325 I had some recently that didn't cut worth anything. I looked over the chain and the tooth lengths and depth gauge clearances were all over the place. Have you seen this?
Quote from: Andyshine77 on November 17, 2015, 12:51:11 AM
Your 562 in running a large spline .325 rim or small spline?
As to 32RS .325 I had some recently that didn't cut worth anything. I looked over the chain and the tooth lengths and depth gauge clearances were all over the place. Have you seen this?
Andre, you have to go back and read this thread from the start. Yes I converted it to small 7 spline.
Yeah I noticed tolerance issues but Oregon 20 LPX is no better.
The 23RS chain I have in my videos is brand new with only a light touch up with a 3/16" file..... driven by a worn out 562 with 1500 hours on it and never had the cylinder off.
Are you not impressed with the chains cutting speed in that old dry wood? :D :D
No the saw seemed to cut real well, I'm a fan of .325 myself. I was simply just passing on what I found with the chain I had, the right hand cutters were longer by 1/4" and the depth gauge clearance was .010" to at best .015" the chain cut awful. With a bit of filing it now cuts as it should.
I read the entire thread, but without taking notes it's a bit hard to keep track. :) It looks like you need a oil pump drive gear on the 562 to properly run a small spline .325 sprocket and drum? I'm asking just so things are clear in my little brain, as I'll be picking up a 562 pretty soon and I'd like to play around with different chain.
Yes the 2260 oiler worm gear was too thin which caused the clutch drum bearing to protrude inside the 2260 clutch drum un protected.
But after seeing the outside lugs of the 2260 drum spline still meshes with the 562 worm gear the oiler is driven and operates fine.
I've been running this saw with this small 7 spline setup for weeks now and still oils fine. Will have to take a look at the worm gear to see if any abnormal wear is taking place.........
OK thanks.
Have you ran 63ps on say a 550 yet? That chain is awesome on smaller saws, and I was thinking it may work well on a 550 or 346.
Quote from: Andyshine77 on November 17, 2015, 02:29:22 AM
OK thanks.
Have you ran 63ps on say a 550 yet? That chain is awesome on smaller saws, and I was thinking it may work well on a 550 or 346.
Yes I tried the 63PS on my smaller Huskies, even on my early edition 372XP with .404 8 pin rim and works great on my 338XPT
I'm still waiting for my machinist to open up the mini 7 spline bore of a Picco rim to a small 7 spline. If he can't end up doing it, I'll do it with my drill press and Dremil stones.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/21589/20131213_132043.jpg)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/21589/20131217_135219.jpg)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/21589/20131217_135411.jpg)
Andre, FYI, the clutch cover on my 2253 and 2260 are the same. The clutch drums and clutches will interchange. My 2260 came with a standard spline-the 2253 came with small spline.
Oil pumps are different between 2260 and 562. I tried to get my logger buddy's 562 up and running quick with a swap but it was a no go. His 562 has the fuel tank handle assembly on it that use to be on my 2260.
If I needed a clutch for my 2253 I would put a 562-2260 three shoe one on it.
I bought a 562 for my buddy a good three years ago. It became their preferred falling saw. I would like to know how many hours it has on it. They run a 24 inch bar. The 562 and 7900 seized up the same day from too much ethanol. The 562 has been very reliable. El44 carburetor and auto-tune has been perfect.
Holmen...
Have you tried a new style "vanguard" chain on any of your saws.
Supposed to be the smoothest cut of any oregon chain.
I have not tried 1 but will before too long.
I figured you could tell the whole story and let us know the facts not just the hype.
Regards Chris
Quote from: snowshoveler on November 17, 2015, 09:43:08 AM
Holmen...
Have you tried a new style "vanguard" chain on any of your saws.
Supposed to be the smoothest cut of any oregon chain.
I have not tried 1 but will before too long.
I figured you could tell the whole story and let us know the facts not just the hype.
Regards Chris
Hey Snowy, is that the chain with the funky bent over racker? I bought a Makita 6421 for a friend and the chain that came on it is label Dolmar but it is Oregon chain.
I don't know if it is what your referring to but it is really smooth cut-tn stuff.
Hi 46er...the bent over raker is indeed the vanguard.
Chris
Actually the Vanguard is not new as its been around for years. Alot of corner hardware stores sell it as its a green chain. Best cutting green chisel chain out there and probably the lowest kickback energy chains out there.
I still have a few loops of it left still brand new in the box that I bought about 10 yrs ago. Bore cuts like a charm but that technique is not high on my list.
Holmen...you weren't paying attention in class again were you. Just messin with you.
They have developed a new to us vanguard chain.
The bent over part is supposedly changed to make it narrower and fit in the cut when the chain is filed a few times.
I am always the sceptic and wonder why they missed this the first time.
I know you can file a chain and your saws will work as good as they can so that's why I ask your opinion.
Regards Chris
Yeah I remember now, a little while ago we were talking about this chain.
I'll have to take a look at one of my loops and report back.
Vanguard chain is smooth and a good chain for most, but they're much better options available. The biggest issue I had with it was durability, the teeth are soft and don't like some of the nasty hard and dirty wood I cut.
No testing today guys. We're supposed to get winter snow and minus double digit temps that will probably stay till spring in the next day or so.
Looks like El Nino has burnt out. I need a dry ice free stage trailer for February's competitions, so I folded and tarped it up today.
Hopefully I can keep this going for a bit longer as I now have the YouTube bug.
I just checked some other chainsaw vids on YT and man there's some pretty bad ones out there. :D
Quote from: HolmenTree on November 17, 2015, 11:37:17 AM
Actually the Vanguard is not new as its been around for years. Alot of corner hardware stores sell it as its a green chain. Best cutting green chisel chain out there and probably the lowest kickback energy chains out there.
I still have a few loops of it left still brand new in the box that I bought about 10 yrs ago. Bore cuts like a charm but that technique is not high on my list.
Yes, I bored with it just to see what it would do. It bored very nicely. I have been boring a lot of ash all of them leaners on a hillside. I will probably never buy any Vanguard but sense it was on the saw I thought I'd give it a try.
I have a 9pin .325 setup on my Husky 555 with 15" 58dl Windsor speed tip and its great. The 555 is a detuned 562 but its more than acceptable. I was not too sure about running .325 as without changing clutch drum for small spline l could only run a 9pin on the factory large spline its got. But it super smoother and fun to run. Holemen usually set up his saws well......many members have great pro saws but don't set them up to maximum potential. A good sharp chain and right bar size and sprocket for given application is something the user not Husky engineer decides.
Thanks CR888 :)
I have to postpone the testing for a bit. We have a blizzard on its way, had to batten down the hatches and see how it goes tomorrow.
The chimney inspectors inspected my wood electric furnace and fireplace today, seasoned wood on hand and got the Yamaha gas generator on standby......
Let 'er come I'm ready. :)
WTH is a chimney inspector? A joke right?
49er
Maybe soon to be in IN.. who woulda thunk it a few years ago. Insurance companies, local code writers, and all the others' who want to tell you what to do as they want to keep their jobs writing codes and doing inspections.
Their excuse/reasoning is that you will be "safer". ;)
Quote from: 49er on November 18, 2015, 10:09:13 PM
WTH is a chimney inspector? A joke right?
Someone who knows a lot more about wood stoves then you :D :D :D
We do er right up here in the great white north my friend ;D
We're the masters of wood burning. ......
Quote from: 49er on November 18, 2015, 10:09:13 PM
WTH is a chimney inspector? A joke right?
It is not a joke over here.... ;)
Quote from: beenthere on November 18, 2015, 11:01:50 PM
49er
Maybe soon to be in IN.. who woulda thunk it a few years ago. Insurance companies, local code writers, and all the others' who want to tell you what to do as they want to keep their jobs writing codes and doing inspections.
Their excuse/reasoning is that you will be "safer". ;)
Yep,governments and bureaucracies always come up with a reason to take away your freedom and perpetuate themselves.
Quote from: 49er on November 19, 2015, 09:08:12 AM
Quote from: beenthere on November 18, 2015, 11:01:50 PM
49er
Maybe soon to be in IN.. who woulda thunk it a few years ago. Insurance companies, local code writers, and all the others' who want to tell you what to do as they want to keep their jobs writing codes and doing inspections.
Their excuse/reasoning is that you will be "safer". ;)
Yep,governments and bureaucracies always come up with a reason to take away your freedom and perpetuate themselves.
:D :D
6am this morning the grass was still green then at 7 am it snowed pretty good with 40 mph winds but then just kind of fizzled out by the time the storm got this far north.
I credit the thick Boreal Forest of spruce that surrounds us , hundreds of miles deep where deer can't even survive in it, only moose, wolves and smaller critters.
I always feel safe in this country but 500 miles south on the bald prairie that's another story.
Here we are 2 pm wind's still gusting and not out of trouble yet.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/21589/20151119_135932.jpg)
Speaking of blizzards on the Manitoba prairies south of me, how's this for an aftermath in our capital city Winnipeg population 600,000 in March 4 1966.
70 m.p.h. winds and 20 below F.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/21589/20151119_144500-1.jpg)
Only 2 people died . Across the border in the U.S 14 died.
No way Holmen...we know you swiped the middle out of that telephone pole...for cutting cookies with your new saw.
Yer busted.
Chris
Quote from: snowshoveler on November 19, 2015, 05:08:01 PM
No way Holmen...we know you swiped the middle out of that telephone pole...for cutting cookies with your new saw.
Yer busted.
Chris
Chris, that'd be a bit of snow for snowshoveler eh :D
I have a d6 cat for situations like that...hopefully the snow doesn't arrive all at once.
Chris
holy crow thats alot of snow! that must have been a long mud season ...
Only 2 people died . Across the border in the U.S 14 died.
[/quote]
Two died in Manitoba. And that left what 10 survivors in the whole state? :)
My father spend 4 years in the Aleutian Islands in a B17 squadron. He returned home to Jacksonville Florida but headed north. He said it was so hot he couldn't stand it.
Only update I have is I put a tape measure to the cookies I'm cutting in my videos. I came to realize my cants aren't 8"x8" but almost 9"x9".
That is way too much snow!!!! :o
I decided to drag this up because it sounded like Holman Tree wanted feedback.
We finally got some warm weather this week so I could test it, the saw was never a problem below about 60 degrees Fahrenheit.
I can say that it definitely made a difference in the hot starts on my saw. This saw has always been fussy about hot start technique but now just a tug and it starts, just like the other one. No need to set the fast idle.
Also, while the saw is a little louder, it lost some of the high pitched whine that it had, and I find it to be a little more pleasant than stock.
Thanks for the tip Mr Holman.
I'm glad it helped you out Grandpa. My 562 is still running strong and with the .325 chain.
I see you're from Wisconsin, some of the most beautiful country I've driven through. I always wanted to see Holmen, Wisconsin as the name is spelled the same as mine. My Granpa Holmen passed through there in 1905 on his way out west when he immigrated to the U.S.
I can't remember the story he told about the town as I was quite young, but I remember he said he almost made a homestead there.
Quote from: HolmenTree on October 16, 2015, 09:23:45 PM
I don't know Chris :D I think there's enough chain filing competition for me from lots of members on here.
I sure like the looks of the new Stihl 23RS .325 chain......Too bad Oregon can't put in the effort to make a comparable chain.
Last picture shows Oregon 's outdated dinosaur 20LPX.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/21589/20151009_093134-1.jpg)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/21589/20151009_113615.jpg)
Note the large ramped rakers on the RS, and how much smaller the rakers themselves are on the LP/LPX.
RSC and the current breed of RS has the same kind of rakers as LG/LGX.
Yessir, we do have a pretty state. We have prairies, forests, hills, and two Great Lakes.
Holman is in one of the prettier parts. The coulee region, or driftless area reminds me of Tennessee.
RS35 on all my saws.
Quote from: HolmenTree on September 17, 2015, 07:22:14 PM
Quote from: SawTroll on September 17, 2015, 07:17:29 PM
Quote from: HolmenTree on September 17, 2015, 07:01:46 PM
Yes Happy Birthday Chris
No there's nothing worth removing in front of the inlet of the muffler . Just a deflector plate with lots of opening at the bottom of the muffler . If one was to woods port the cylinder sure remove the deflector but the issue is the extra small outlet that needs to be enlarged.
For just a muffler mod the deflector is a must to keep the decimal levels down.
Decibel, I presume. Some auto correct likely is playing games with you? :)
Haha yes this phone is a challenge Niko
Thanks for all your input, your wealth of information gathering is greatly appreciated 8)
Ah yes, the phone and the decibel, the irony of it all. :D
Alexander Graham Bell would probably be ROTFLMAO round about now, if he heard that.
Some 2015/2016 560xp updates, I assume they are the same for the 562xp:
Quote from: HolmenTree on September 17, 2015, 10:08:45 AM
Quote from: LeeB on September 17, 2015, 05:36:47 AM
When I put a new piston and jug on my 346XP I don't recall there being any muffler gaskets, only the heat shield. Should there be gaskets?
Lee thanks for bringing this up , I hope others will chime in on this gasket issue.
Yes there is a gasket between the muffler and the heat shield on the 562XP , not sure about the 346.
The gasket gets welded to the heat shield from heat so you may not have noticed it. I checked both 550 and 562 IPL's and there's only 1 gasket between the muffler and aluminum heat Shield. The heat shield is bare against the cylinder exhaust port.
I put an extra gasket between the heat shield and cylinder, but my questions to anyone out there is "should the gasket not be there so the cylinder heat can be properly transfered through the aluminum heat shield by metal to metal connection?"
"Or does it matter as it was just a cost and weight saving design?"
From an engineering standpoint, yes there should always be some suitable gasket/cement material between two metal mating parts, as metal on metal does not seal very well, unless of coarse the engineers are relying on carbon build up from the exhaust to fill in the gaps and do the job. There are exceptions to the rules when using soft metal gaskets such as copper etc...but they still form the function of a gasket. If your looking to make it air tight, best to use a gasket. May not be as important for the exhaust as what it would be for the air inlet though.
Quote from: HolmenTree on October 16, 2015, 10:46:30 AM
A little training and experience using a Bigshot slingshot with 2 mm throw line on a 14oz weight bag will get any guyline or pull rope up into the top of any tree while you're standing on the ground.
A 3 ton cast iron ratchet puller, Maasdam rope puller or a truck pulling the " right size" rope on a block or pulley redirect will get any tree down.
But knowing how to do the "stick trick" to measure a tree's height to fit the lay space is your first limitation.
Judging side lean and using a drywall T square to gunsight the face cut to target finishes the job.
I recon an old car radio antenna with a pen in the bottom end would work really well as a stick, you could even keep it with your quotation book for when giving out quotes. And a nice green laser on the end of that drywall T square may come in mighty handy too you know?.
Ada, I think I better fill in to the members here about the "stick trick technique ".
Also to keep this post from being a derail I'll report my 562XP with the .325 7 pin rim sprocket and Stihl 23RS chain is still amazing me with the torque of its cutting power of any log I'm encountering . Oils great with the 18" Cannon Super Mini bar.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/21589/20160604_181319.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1465082551)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/21589/20160604_181401-2.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1465082623)
Quote from: HolmenTree on June 04, 2016, 07:24:32 PM
Ada, I think I better fill in to the members here about the "stick trick technique ".
Also to keep this post from being a derail I'll report my 562XP with the .325 7 pin rim sprocket and Stihl 23RS chain is still amazing me with the torque of its cutting power of any log I'm encountering . Oils great with the 18" Cannon Super Mini bar.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/21589/20160604_181319.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1465082551)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/21589/20160604_181401-2.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1465082623)
Yeh Holmen, There's a lot of stuff out there. There's one site in particular that explains how to use the drywall T square as an "advanced gun sight technique" that sums it up pretty well. :D, just joshing. There's a few ways to determine a trees height but the stick method is probably the most versatile. I have a phone with a laser pointer that can also measure inclination. It's only a mathematical equation to determine the tree's height but of coarse, id then have to run out with a tape measure which makes it more cumbersome. Keep it simple (Kiss method) and I like it.
Just revived this old thread, thanks to John Mc for posting it for Hank's 562 modded muffler thread.
Wow over 10 pages with over 21,000 views and lots of information I forgot about writing especially pages 8,9,10.
I'm considering a 562 XP after my 2 year old 550XP developed scoring in the exhaust cylinder. Husq claims it's from bad fuel. I've always used premixed fuel. Go figure, I have my doubts.
Thoughts?
A dealer told you that? ::)
I cooked a saw. They claimed I was not mixing my fuel right. ::) Wrong thing to say. I used the oil bottles and fill the gas cans myself and I am the only user. I went to 40:1 and all is fine.
Yeah I use 40:1 too went to the dealer to pick up some oil and he had a fit cause I was mixing too heavy. I told him that when he had a saw for 20 years and not a hook with it and never been apart for anything there's the proof. Also my 562XP is long out of warranty so it's my problem now!
Some dealers need to get out of the class room and behind a saw before telling me what is right and wrong.