iDRY Vacuum Kilns

Sponsors:

LT40 hydraulics not working

Started by brooksmill, October 31, 2019, 01:03:23 PM

Previous topic - Next topic

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

brooksmill

Because of medical reasons mill has not been run in 2 yrs. Trying to get back into sawing and running into problems. Battery dead-replaced. Now hydraulics not working. Cleaned contact strip, tapped on solenoid-still nothing. Manual says to check fuse but cannot find fuse. Any ideas   Thanks

terrifictimbersllc

There are things to check. This is what I would do first. 

Take the cover off of the small box to the right of the battery.  Inside is a zig-zag looking fuse mounted between two studs.  One of them is attached to the battery and should read 12 V.  The other side should too, unless the fuse is blown. There should be a replacement fuse attached to inside of the cover of that box you took off. That other side of the fuse goes to one of the large studs on the solenoid which is in the box. Both should read 12V at all times if the battery is good, connected, and the fuse not blown.  If you have that 12V on one side of that solenoid inside the fuse box, and it still doesnt work, check back with us. 

You can call WoodMizer Indianapolis and get tech support, electrical, and they will walk you through this.  Have a volt meter or continuity tester ready and the cover off the fuse box when you call. 

DJ Hoover, Terrific Timbers LLC,  Mystic CT Woodmizer Million Board Foot Club member. 2019 LT70 Super Wide 55 Yanmar,  LogRite fetching arch, WM BMS250 sharpener/BMT250 setter.  2001 F350 7.3L PSD 6 spd manual ZF 4x4 Crew Cab Long Bed

WV Sawmiller

   Calling WM will almost certainly fix the problem. I don't know where the fuses/breakers are on the LT40. Mine has 2 white button type breakers on the control panel so if I run the head up too high or other overload, boo boo, it trips and so far I have only had to push them back in and resume sawing. Good luck.
Howard Green
WM LT35HDG25(2015) , 2011 4WD F150 Ford Lariat PU, Kawasaki 650 ATV, Stihl 440 Chainsaw, homemade logging arch (w/custom built rear log dolly), JD 750 w/4' wide Bushhog brand FEL

Dad always said "You can shear a sheep a bunch of times but you can only skin him once

jovol

Quote from: WV Sawmiller on October 31, 2019, 01:35:02 PM
  Calling WM will almost certainly fix the problem. I don't know where the fuses/breakers are on the LT40. Mine has 2 white button type breakers on the control panel so if I run the head up too high or other overload, boo boo, it trips and so far I have only had to push them back in and resume sawing. Good luck.
Those circuit breakers are for things controlled on the control panel. If hydraulics aren't getting powered, it'd be the fuse in the fuse box next to the battery, the contact strip, or the hydraulic solenoid in the hydraulic box.
2017 LT50 wide, stihl ms362 & ms660, echo cs7310, Logrite fetching arch, 2000 New Holland LS180, Ford 6.0, kubota L48, kubota KH-70, Ford F800 8.3

Chuck White

Be careful in that fuse box, there are lots of sparks in there waiting to get turned loose!

Once you do the power check, if you do anything else in there, disconnect the battery!

Your "no power to the hydraulics" problem could also be the little microswitch in the hydraulics box!
~Chuck~  Cooks Cat Claw sharpener and single tooth setter.  2018 Chevy Silverado and 2021 Subaru Ascent.
With basic mechanical skills and the ability to read you can maintain a Woodmizer  LT40!

John S

Did you check to see if the spring loaded contact is making good "contact" with the strip?
2018 LT40HDG38 Wide

brooksmill

where is the spring loaded contact at?

Bandmill Bandit

Its the piece that slides along the contact  strip mounted on the bottom front post of the saw head. It is attached to the mill with 2 bolts through a black bracket and has a short piece of heavy cable attached to it. if you need a picture I can go take one for you.  
Skilled Master Sawyer. "Skilled labour don't come cheap. Cheap labour dont come skilled!
2018 F150 FX4, Husqvarna 340, 2 Logright 36 inch cant hooks and a bunch of stuff I built myself

WV Sawmiller

  It is the piece that runs along the power strip. Follow the cord. Mine is a white plastic block about 3-4 inches long. You can wiggle it while toggling the hydraulics lever and if the hydraulics works there is a good chance this is not making good contact. BTW - did you check the troubleshooting section in you operator's manual?
Howard Green
WM LT35HDG25(2015) , 2011 4WD F150 Ford Lariat PU, Kawasaki 650 ATV, Stihl 440 Chainsaw, homemade logging arch (w/custom built rear log dolly), JD 750 w/4' wide Bushhog brand FEL

Dad always said "You can shear a sheep a bunch of times but you can only skin him once

terrifictimbersllc

At the other end of the heavy black wire coming off the solenoid in the fuse box.
DJ Hoover, Terrific Timbers LLC,  Mystic CT Woodmizer Million Board Foot Club member. 2019 LT70 Super Wide 55 Yanmar,  LogRite fetching arch, WM BMS250 sharpener/BMT250 setter.  2001 F350 7.3L PSD 6 spd manual ZF 4x4 Crew Cab Long Bed

brooksmill

Please bandit if you can take picture would be great and how to adjust.  thks

WV Sawmiller

   Off the cuff but as I remember you just use a hex wrench to tighten or loosen the two bolts in the block. Loosening them make the block extend out further pushing it tighter against the power strip. There is a spring under the bolt pushing against the block. Warning - if you have power on while doing this and cross the wrench against nearby metal you will weld the bolt head (Don't ask me how I know this  :D).
Howard Green
WM LT35HDG25(2015) , 2011 4WD F150 Ford Lariat PU, Kawasaki 650 ATV, Stihl 440 Chainsaw, homemade logging arch (w/custom built rear log dolly), JD 750 w/4' wide Bushhog brand FEL

Dad always said "You can shear a sheep a bunch of times but you can only skin him once

Magicman

I would not even think of diagnosing an electrical problem without a voltmeter/test lamp.  This is a very short length circuit.  Start at the battery and work outward from there.  Battery, solenoid, fuse, spring loaded contact, contact strip, hydraulic solenoid, and then the hydraulic pump.  As Chuck White mentioned above, the micro switch supplies 12 volts which energizes the hydraulic solenoid.
Knothole Sawmill, LLC     '98 Wood-Mizer LT40SuperHydraulic   WM Million BF Club Member   WM Pro Sawyer Network

It's Weird being the Same Age as Old People

Never allow your "need" to make money to exceed your "desire" to provide quality service.....The Magicman

Bandmill Bandit

MM lists all the places to look for issues and he is 100% correct.

I think you have a ground issue based on personal experience. Once you have gon through the procedure I outline below and you still have no power we will look at other possibilities. 98% likely this process wil solve your issues IF you follow ALL the steps. if you need to talk to me let me know I can send you my Cell number.  





I dont know how to add arrows but you can see that the bracket has slots under the 3/8 carriage head bolts to allow for adjustment.

DISCONNECT the battery FIRST!!!!!!!!

You will need a 9/16ths socket/ratchet or a 9/16 wrench , a small prying tool, 120 emry cloth or sandpaper and a SMALL hammer. Possibly a 7/16 socket and or wrench as well.

Bring the saw head just up to the copper strip so that you can move the head forward and back a few inches during the following process

Remove the 2 X 9/16ths carriage bolts and lift the bracket away from the mount plate inspect to ensure that the brass contact slide is in deed sliding on the center of copper strip and NOT catching the top or bottom edge of the plastic insulator strip.

Use the emry cloth/sand paper to polish the brass block and spray generously  with De-ox-it.

Remove the ground block and do the same to it.( more often than not the ground block is likely to be the issue.) just follow the ground cable to find it.

If the bottom rail is showing rust you will need to give it a good once over with a wire cup brush on a side grinder

I use a brass wire brush in my cordless drill with generous amounts of deoxit to polish the copper strip AND the lower head rail as this where the ground block slides

BE GENEROUS with the DEOXIT!! I but this stuff by the case.        

Re assemble and adjust as per the manual. You should be operational. takes about 2 hours to do the whole process for me.
Skilled Master Sawyer. "Skilled labour don't come cheap. Cheap labour dont come skilled!
2018 F150 FX4, Husqvarna 340, 2 Logright 36 inch cant hooks and a bunch of stuff I built myself

Magicman

Quote from: Bandmill Bandit on October 31, 2019, 06:52:29 PMI think you have a ground issue based on personal experience.
Yup, it's easy to overlook the ground that slides along the bottom rod.  I have never had any problem whatsoever with mine, but it is there.
Knothole Sawmill, LLC     '98 Wood-Mizer LT40SuperHydraulic   WM Million BF Club Member   WM Pro Sawyer Network

It's Weird being the Same Age as Old People

Never allow your "need" to make money to exceed your "desire" to provide quality service.....The Magicman

brooksmill

OK been doing some elec testing. Reading 12.5 v across fuse links and same off left side of solenoid but right side of solenoid nothing (one going to spring loaded block) Thinking could be bad solenoid. What say you? Thanks for all the help. I know I could call woodmizer but don't have cell service at the mill

Bandmill Bandit

Is the key in the on position AND is there voltage to the switch terminal of the solenoid coming from the key? If that line is dead the solenoid will not close and no power through. Could be the switch or a fuse/breaker? 

Check to make sure you have power through the key switch to that line and terminal on the solenoid.

Id have to check the wiring diagram in the manual to be positive where to check for that.
Skilled Master Sawyer. "Skilled labour don't come cheap. Cheap labour dont come skilled!
2018 F150 FX4, Husqvarna 340, 2 Logright 36 inch cant hooks and a bunch of stuff I built myself

Magicman

You can temporarily jumper across that first solenoid with a jumper cable.  Heck, you could even bypass the contact strip. 

A hot jumper cable can be your friend working backwards from the hydraulic pump.
Knothole Sawmill, LLC     '98 Wood-Mizer LT40SuperHydraulic   WM Million BF Club Member   WM Pro Sawyer Network

It's Weird being the Same Age as Old People

Never allow your "need" to make money to exceed your "desire" to provide quality service.....The Magicman

Bandmill Bandit

MM suggesting  a good and quick short term method to test things. You could just take short  wire to cross from the hot side of the solenoid to the switch terminal to see if the solenoid is working. If it is working that way, your problem will be between solenoid switch terminal and the key switch. 
Skilled Master Sawyer. "Skilled labour don't come cheap. Cheap labour dont come skilled!
2018 F150 FX4, Husqvarna 340, 2 Logright 36 inch cant hooks and a bunch of stuff I built myself

brooksmill

Jumped across solenoid and hydraulics worked but my jumper was smoking so what could be my problem. Is solenoid bad? Not sure what to order

Southside

Was your jumper wire considerably smaller than the wire feeding the hydraulic pump?  If so it was just pulling too many amps through it.
Franklin buncher and skidder
JD Processor
Woodmizer LT Super 70 and LT35 sawmill, KD250 kiln, BMS 250 sharpener and setter
Riehl Edger
Woodmaster 725 and 4000 planner and moulder
Enough cows to ensure there is no spare time.
White Oak Meadows

YellowHammer

I'm working from memory of several years ago, but...
There is a (I think) red trigger wire going to the solenoid (it's really a car starter relay) and it activates the electromagnet and pulls it into position to engage the main power contacts to energize the pump.  The trigger wires are smaller than the main feed wires so they are easy to find going into the solenoid.  With the hydros off, the trigger would read zero, with the hydros calling for active it should read 12 volts, if my memory serves.  If you have 12 volts going into the solenoid on the input side in the main feed line, and 12 volts on the trigger wire when commanding hydros, and zero or most likely a low voltage coming out of the solenoid, say 4 volts or so because of a poor or partial contact, then it's the solenoid.  You should also hear it click when you activate the trigger wire.  I had to replace 2 on my LT40.  They are just starter motor relays for automobiles.  

When you jumped with the shunt wire, it bypassed the solenoid and full power draw caused the wire to shunt to burn because it's not rated for the high current that the motor of the hydros use.  So that says the open circuit is at the solenoid, so it could and probably is, the main contractors not closing adequately. However, check the trigger wire also, if there is no signal to the trigger the solenoid won't be calling to close, and it's not the problem.  There would be an issue with the trigger circuit.    

They are pretty cheap if I remember correctly, and I bought two, one as a spare, and eventually used it also.  You could also go to your local auto parts store and find a similar item.  
YellowHammerisms:

Take steps to save steps.

If it won't roll, its not a log; it's still a tree.  Sawmills cut logs, not trees.

Kiln drying wood: When the cookies are burned, they're burned, and you can't fix them.

Sawing is fun for the first couple million boards.

Be smarter than the sawdust

Magicman

Your voltmeter will verify whether the "trigger" wire is being energized.  Get your replacement 200amp solenoid from Wood-Mizer.  I always keep a couple of spares.  Both of those solenoids are the same.
Knothole Sawmill, LLC     '98 Wood-Mizer LT40SuperHydraulic   WM Million BF Club Member   WM Pro Sawyer Network

It's Weird being the Same Age as Old People

Never allow your "need" to make money to exceed your "desire" to provide quality service.....The Magicman

Bandmill Bandit

Dont jump across the solenoid. Put power to the switch terminal on the solenoid. (probably and 1/8th or 3/16ths diameter stud) it is a small terminal that will likely have a red or black #14 or 12 wire going to it from the key switch. 

Disconnect that wire and then jump 12 volts to that small terminal from the hot side of the solenoid. You can check that terminal with a voltage meter too, and if there is no voltage there your back power supply to/ from key. You will hear the contacts click closed when you apply power to this terminal IF the solenoid is working.  Can do it with about a 6 inch piece of wire. No clicky No worky! Need new solenoid.    
Skilled Master Sawyer. "Skilled labour don't come cheap. Cheap labour dont come skilled!
2018 F150 FX4, Husqvarna 340, 2 Logright 36 inch cant hooks and a bunch of stuff I built myself

terrifictimbersllc

Pretty sure there is a 15a breaker In between the key switch ACC terminal and the little 12v post on the solenoid. Maybe one of the 5 that are right under the controls.
DJ Hoover, Terrific Timbers LLC,  Mystic CT Woodmizer Million Board Foot Club member. 2019 LT70 Super Wide 55 Yanmar,  LogRite fetching arch, WM BMS250 sharpener/BMT250 setter.  2001 F350 7.3L PSD 6 spd manual ZF 4x4 Crew Cab Long Bed

Thank You Sponsors!