What's next to add to the list?

Jeff · April 23, 2014, 08:57:47 AM

It has been over a year and a half since my sawmill has been started, let alone ran. It has had the engine and controls tarped and covered and sitting back behind my little barn in that time. Sunday I was finally able to get to it after the mounds of snow had thawed and the tires and legs were freed from the several inches of ice they had been encased in.

My plan is to get her going, and haul her up to the U.P. so I can start prepping my future cabin logs. (story here)

So, I figured no way was it going to start, sitting that long and I would not be able to get to the battery, which I figured would be frozen and junk, because the sawhead has to be up to access the battery.

I hooked on to the mill and hauled it around front. Just for laughs and giggles, I turned the key on and hit the up switch and low and behold it was alive! So, I got the sawhead up enough to get the battery cover off, checked the electrolyte levels which were all good, then started a 2 amp charg on it for several hours. While it was charging, I dumped the old fuel from the tank, rinsed it with a couple ounces of chainsaw gas, dumped that out, and then refilled the tank. I checked the oil, which looked like new yet, and showed no signs of any condensation from its time sitting idle. I let the battery charge for about 6 hours. After letting it charge, I hooked up the fuel line, squeezed the primer bulb a few times until I could see gas in the clear in-line filter, pulled the choke, and hit the key.

VROOM! She took right off. I shoved the choke in, and she sat there and idled smoothly for a minute or so before I shut it back down.

Now what? I have a few things on my list to do before I take it up north, but what might I be missing.

1. Wheel bearings. The mill has bearing buddies on it. I figure I'll just give them a few pumps. I can't see where I would need to actually tear them apart and repack. or should I?

2. Grease. That's a given. Grease everything that can be greased.
3. Lube. Lube the lift chain and the follow chain.

4. Lube the mast slides.

What else should I be looking for? I've never had to re-align the lt30 since I got it, but I did notice the last time I used it, sawing cedar boards and leaving a 4X4 that the 4X4 was not perfectly square. I really have no idea where to start on adjusting the mill.

What about the electrical? Should I be pulling the covers off the switches and doing anything in there? Hopefully you guys can add to my list.

york · April 23, 2014, 09:20:19 AM

Hand tools and air-i am looking for a good 12volt air compressor for my needs.....albert

Bill Gaiche · April 23, 2014, 09:21:30 AM

Check tire air pressure. Check belts. Check air filter. Check lights if you have them. See if bearings in band wheels and guides turn smooth. You may want to run head all the way up and down a few time and the carriage back and forth also. bg

Magicman · April 23, 2014, 09:25:19 AM

I doubt that there is anything seriously out of whack that a few adjustments can not correct.

I would start by checking the side supports which would insure that the basic bed is square.

Next, insure that the blade is parallel to the bed using the tool that attaches to the blade.

Then with the blade guide out, the blade should be 1/16" higher on the idle side.

Sawyer697 · April 23, 2014, 09:47:23 AM

Check the inside of the up and down slides or tower, be sure that they are free of any rust. Belt tension to. Happy sawing

Jeff · April 23, 2014, 09:50:22 AM

Quote from: Magicman on April 23, 2014, 09:25:19 AM

Next, insure that the blade is parallel to the bed using the tool that attaches to the blade.

I've never had one of these. Is it something I can do with out or make?

Dave Shepard · April 23, 2014, 09:50:35 AM

The tool Magicman mentions is the LTBGAT, which is just a piece of 1/8"x1" aluminum with a neat little clip to hold it to the blade. You can get a 2' or 3' piece of Al at the hardware store and use a rubber band to hold it in place.

Jeff · April 23, 2014, 09:51:35 AM

Why can't you measure to the blade?

Bandmill Bandit · April 23, 2014, 09:58:55 AM

Open the electrical control box and use a bit of the di-electric grease in the little container that should be inside to lube the drum switches.

I like to use a non sticky spray lubricant on the throttle linkages after my mill has sat for a couple of months even with the engine covered.

If it has been sitting long enough that the mast and glide pads would clean easily with hot water and soap from a pressure washer I'd wash that out real good and switch to a graphite lube for the mast.

I know I sure have not regretted doing that.

Check the ground on the alternator for rust and or corrosion too. for some reason that one liked to corrode on mine till I add the additional ground as the Kohler service bulletin recommended AND coated the area and connecters with a bit of di-electric grease to boot.

Jim_Rogers · April 23, 2014, 10:13:19 AM

Quote from: Jeff on April 23, 2014, 09:51:35 AM
Why can't you measure to the blade?

The point about using a blade alignment tool is to see if the blade is parallel or flat to the bed rails.

I call it a tilt gage.

You measure from the bed rail to the gage at each end of the gage. If the blade is flat to the table then the measurements should be the same.

Jim Rogers

Joe Hillmann · April 23, 2014, 10:19:14 AM

Quote from: Jeff on April 23, 2014, 09:51:35 AM
Why can't you measure to the blade?

The piece of aluminum is about a foot long and runs perpendicular to the blade. You measure from each end of the piece of aluminum down to a board placed on the bed rails. Because the piece of aluminum is a foot long and the blade is only an inch wide any slope in the blade front to back is multiplied by 12 times which makes it easier to measure and adjust.

Dave Shepard · April 23, 2014, 11:17:58 AM

The Blade Guide Alignment Tool is for checking the tilt of the guide rollers.

I don't think Jeff has a control box on his mill, it is an early model with the drum switches on the mast.

Jeff · April 23, 2014, 11:42:27 AM

Yup. Drum switches. I've never had any issues with the way the blade tracks or saws, lumber has always been good. I just remember the last time the cants left at the end was slightly out of square. That wouldn't be a blade tilt adjustment wood it?

YellowHammer · April 23, 2014, 12:39:20 PM

Out of square cants indicate that the backstops need to be adjusted to be square to the bed when they are under clamp load

YH

Jeff · April 23, 2014, 12:56:06 PM

Isn't it just as important, maybe even more so to have the blade cutting square with the bed? That is the critical thing for what I am about to do. Two-siding the cedar logs.

Peter Drouin · April 23, 2014, 01:11:30 PM

I don't know far your going to pull the mill. But if it's a long way I would go over every inch of it. And bring a spare tire and tools.
Good luck.

Magicman · April 23, 2014, 01:44:44 PM

Jeff, I would say that all three of the items that I listed are equally important, and should be done in that order. You will be assured of sawing square lumber.

drobertson · April 23, 2014, 01:46:46 PM

Might do a check on the cam followers, inside to out on the blade off the bed. then do a check on the blade guide as it moves open. simple but time does have its effects on things,

Larry · April 23, 2014, 01:58:36 PM

I did an alignment on the TK last week just as a checkup. It had been making good lumber but my blade tilt was off a bit. No difference in the quality of lumber after adjusting and the boards were still good, but I think I can push it harder and run the band longer before making a wave. Anyways it gives me a good feeling to know everything is adjusted properly. Don't take a minute to check it...I use a 18" steel rule and hold it on the blade with a magnet.

On the trailer bearings no more than one pump. Maybe a 1/2 pump.

Jeff · April 23, 2014, 02:34:37 PM

Right now I'm trying to figure out how to get the grease gun off the bearing buddy grease zerk. I gave it a shot, and now can't get the gun off. I've twisted and tipped and jerked and pulled did about everything I can think of without getting medieval on it yet.

Jim_Rogers · April 23, 2014, 02:45:21 PM

I hate when that happens >:(

Larry · April 23, 2014, 03:11:27 PM

Quote from: Jeff on April 23, 2014, 02:34:37 PM
Right now I'm trying to figure out how to get the grease gun off the bearing buddy grease zerk. I gave it a shot, and now can't get the gun off. I've twisted and tipped and jerked and pulled did about everything I can think of without getting medieval on it yet.

Now your asking tough questions. I only get paid to answer easy ones. :D

Dave Shepard · April 23, 2014, 03:20:12 PM

On any LT40 that I have aligned, the last step is to tip the head back 1/16" on the outside. It won't cut parallel to the bed if you don't. I don't know what the spec is on our earlier machine.

Nomad · April 23, 2014, 05:54:08 PM

Quote from: Jeff on April 23, 2014, 02:34:37 PM
Right now I'm trying to figure out how to get the grease gun off the bearing buddy grease zerk. I gave it a shot, and now can't get the gun off. I've twisted and tipped and jerked and pulled did about everything I can think of without getting medieval on it yet.

You can try prying it off with a screwdriver. Personally, I'd get medieval. Bend hard and yank. It (shouldn't) break the zerk. At least, I've never had one break doing that.

Hilltop366 · April 23, 2014, 06:04:48 PM

Quote from: nomad on April 23, 2014, 05:54:08 PM
Quote from: Jeff on April 23, 2014, 02:34:37 PM
Right now I'm trying to figure out how to get the grease gun off the bearing buddy grease zerk. I gave it a shot, and now can't get the gun off. I've twisted and tipped and jerked and pulled did about everything I can think of without getting medieval on it yet.

You can try prying it off with a screwdriver. Personally, I'd get medieval. Bend hard and yank. It (shouldn't) break the zerk. At least, I've never had one break doing that.

I have broken one or two before, not sure what the answer is other then a pry.

If it was mine I would change the engine oil if it has been in the engine for three years even though it looks good.