So, now what do I do with it?

[D6c]

Got this big burr oak...4' big end 3' small end and a little over 13' long.  The only way I can get it on the saw is to quarter it with a chainsaw and it will still be big.  It was way to heavy for my tractor loader and it will lift about 5000#.  Loaded it with my brother's excavator.  If there were someone nearby with a slabbing chainsaw mill or lucas type mill that might be the solution.

 

[goose63]

I can only do38 inch with my chain saw mill thats not big enough to help

[firefighter ontheside]

I would consider this method for quarter sawing.  Of course you will have to do a bunch of the cutting with the chainsaw instead of mill, but you will get a lot of quarter sawn boards out of that big log.

https://woodmizer.com/us/Resources/Wood-Mizer-Learning-Center/ArtMID/5164/ArticleID/153/How-to-Quarter-Saw-Lumber

[TKehl]

I can handle that size.  Might have to trim a touch of flare, but 48" is fine.

What are you wanting to get out of it, lumber or slabs?

Timeframe?  Your close but far.   :D  Would be good to have a few big uns lined up to make it make sense.  Plus it may be a bit before I can get away.

[WDH]

If you split the pith like is shown in the quartersawing link, your boards will side bend significantly because there is juvenile wood on one edge and mature wood on the other.  The juvenile wood shrinks about 1% in length and the mature wood does not, so, the result is side bend.  It can be dramatic.

[D6c]

I can handle that size.  Might have to trim a touch of flare, but 48" is fine.

What are you wanting to get out of it, lumber or slabs?

Timeframe?  Your close but far.   :D  Would be good to have a few big uns lined up to make it make sense.  Plus it may be a bit before I can get away.

Looks like you're about 3 hours away from me.  There might be one more that's not quite as big but that's a long way to go for a couple of logs...and with my old truck that would be a long ride bringing them to you.  What kind of mill do you have that has that kind of capacity?

[D6c]

If you split the pith like is shown in the quartersawing link, your boards will side bend significantly because there is juvenile wood on one edge and mature wood on the other.  The juvenile wood shrinks about 1% in length and the mature wood does not, so, the result is side bend.  It can be dramatic.

Good point....that's part of what I'm trying to decide...what to cut it into.  Some slabs would be good but without a bigger saw quartering would be my only option.

[scsmith42]

Burr oak makes beautiful QS lumber.  Just edge the pith and sapwood off after you are done milling the boards (presuming that you can't octagon the log first.

[D6c]

Burr oak makes beautiful QS lumber.  Just edge the pith and sapwood off after you are done milling the boards (presuming that you can't octagon the log first.

I was thinking it would be nice to quarter-saw a good part of it.  I know of a couple of guys wanting trailer decking but I hate to cut it up for that if I can get some nice QS mat'l.
To eliminate side bow I guess I could saw it, dry it, and then re-saw the edges to straighten it up.

Might be a challenge to get it split with a chainsaw and get it cut half way straight.  Could try to rig up some type of guide for the saw so I don't mess it up too bad.  I have a 25" bar on the saw but it will still take every bit of it cutting from both sides.

[TKehl]

I've got a Lucas swing mill with slabber attachment.

If you are after mostly dimensional, I'd recommend cutting through with a chainsaw on one length and both ends.  (A chalk line helps.)  Then use wedges and maybe that excavator for extra persuasion to split the other half.

[firefighter ontheside]

I was referring to the "Easy Quartersawing" steps also on the same page and not the actual quartering method.  This method cuts the pith out.  Sorry for the confusion. 

[drobertson]

D6. what sawmill do you have?

[D6c]

D6. what sawmill do you have?

An '87 Woodmizer LT40 that I've converted to hydraulic.

[scsmith42]

Burr oak makes beautiful QS lumber.  Just edge the pith and sapwood off after you are done milling the boards (presuming that you can't octagon the log first.

To eliminate side bow I guess I could saw it, dry it, and then re-saw the edges to straighten it up.

You would have less waste if you edged the pith and sapwood off of lumber while green.  That will help prevent it from crooking while drying.  It will also provide you with long, straight QS boards that would be suitable for bookcase sides, etc.

I'd definately recommend Yellowhammer's Reverse Roll Quartersawing procedure, as it will allow you to net a greater portion of high fleck, wide boards. 

Be sure to mill the wide boards thicker than normal.  From a 30" small end you should be able to net 12" boards after pith and sapwood trimming.  I'd suggest that you mill at 1-7/16" green to have a dry 5/4 board. 

[Brucer]

I sawed a few Western Larch logs 16' long with a similar diameter. My customer had a friend come in with a 30" chainsaw and they split the logs in two -- one cut down each side. They used a level to draw a line through the centre across the ends. Then they used a builder's chalkline to mark the sides. After that they freehanded the cuts.

I was surprised how quickly it went -- and the two cuts were very close to meeting in the centre.

I was able to stand a half log vertically and break it down. My blade rises to 35" off the bed and (without the dragback) I have 14" clearance above the blade, so I have the room to break down a 49" diameter half log.

I basically cut each half log down into 14" thick cants and then resawed them into whatever dimensions the customer wanted.

[dboyt]

I use the chain saw method, cutting vertically into the log, then turn the log over (my bar is only 42") and finish up from the other side.  It helps a lot to use a level.  Then again, there's always black powder...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vODXyUmkEoo